Just picked up a '96 XJ this weekend. Sold my '78 Bronco that was built up.

Cherokee is stock form, 4.0HO, manual Tranny (what type?), upcountry package, factory AC.

Here's my questions/thoughts:

Lift: Want to run 33" MTR's. How much lift with minor fender trimming? thoughts/considerations on this? Ive searched and read enough that not any one kit has all the best pieces.. so will likely "Mix & Match"

General consensus on best UCA, LCA, springs, etc.

Rear axle will likely be replaced with a Ford 8.8 soon as I can find a '95 or newer one.

On a very tight budget, so want to build it right the first time around..

AX15 transmission.

I'd figure on a 4.5" lift for 33" tires. I put 31x10.50 MT/Rs under a 3" lift, and they stuffed perfectly. 3 marks on the top, front and rear of the front fenderwell. I'd go taller, though, for 33" tires.

I have the Rubicon Express adjustable LCAs, and I'm getting a set of adjustable uppers from RE soon.

For rear springs, get the Alcans. I got mine through John@Bigoffroad.com. I've got RE 4.5" ZJ coils up front (with a winch.)

BTW, I'll bet you've got a Chrysler 8.25 rear end.

ChiXJeff

not necessarily.

I am stuffing 31's dead stock. with a little more trimming and a little more gearing I could stuff 33's stock.

for a good lift though.....here's what I would do.

RE 4.5 inch ZJ coils (net 6-8 on an XJ)
RE extreme duty trackbar

either: RE adj CA's and drop bracket OR custom t-case crossmember and fab up some custom CA's similar to RE's TJ longarm kit.

RE six inch rear pack, re-arched Comanche pack, or custom alcans.

YJ 3 inch extended brake lines

and a bunch of other stuff......

I want to know how anyone can say that you can wheel 31's stock without rubbing! My 235's rub with a 3" lift!
http://archiegallup.homestead.com/files/XJstuffed.JPG

Originally posted by Archie_G
I want to know how anyone can say that you can wheel 31's stock without rubbing! My 235's rub with a 3" lift!
<grin> That's easy enough to fix, bumpstops..... </grin>

But I hear what you're saying. 31s need a little extra spring height to get some upward flex.

ChiXJeff

Good choice of vehicle! :beer:

Start reading up here.... www.naxja.org

I'v noticed alot of XJers in the CO area run without flares, that'll help with being able to trim for larger meats with minimul lift. Depending on terrain that may or may not be a good thing.

I run RE adj upper and lowers with drop brackets, works well. I'd suggest looking into longarms though. www.claytonsoffroad.com This may be a better solution since you have all stock components...you mentioned doing it right the 1st time.

Definately go with the Big's leaf pack www.bigoffroad.com in either 4.5 or 6" flavor. I run the 6" with RE 1" shackel and have 8.5 - 9" lift with rear bumper/carrier and 33's. They'll settle out a bit but not much, good leaf pack with milwrap main leaf.

RE ZJ 4.5 coils will net 6" plus, add some spacer if heavy bumper/winch.

At NAXJA look for posts by NAY...he's from your area and very knowledgable. He'll get you in the right direction.


The 8.8 is a c-clip axle, but it does come with discs. An XJ 44 was my choice with TSM discs.

4:56 R&P would be good for 33's.

HTH

Do you have the towing package?

My '88 xj has a D44 rear w/ that option.
Is it the same w/ the newer ones? Check on it, a 44 rear is worth keeping in that sucker.

I ran 31" tires on my XJ stock & rubbed like a FREAK. I'd recommed around 5" of lift to hook up 33's. No flares, trim a little... You're good to go.
:D

The rear 44's were only an option in 87 thru 89-90. A 96 would have a Dana 35 c-clip or Corp 8.25 c-clip axle.

It does have a 35 in the rear.
Thanks for the tip on NAXJA, looks like some good reading there.

I've got a lot of experience in wheeling, and building up my previous truck.. just got tired of it's sheer size. The XJ feels more like a go-cart :)

On-board air... Any possible way of putting in a York? If I put on a snorkel, and got rid of the big air box there.. opens up a wee bit of room.. possible put a double pulley on the power steering pump, and run it off that? Granted, I wouldn't run it exept while standing still... Now that I have AC.. would like to keep it.. specially since it seems the summers are getting hotter..

Originally posted by big78bronco
On-board air...

An alternative is an electric.

I've heard rumors that it's possible to do some shuffling on the passenger side, and run a second compressor. That seems pretty tight on my XJ, although moving the battery over where the airbox is/was would make a difference.

ChiXJeff

Yeah, a York can be added alongside your factory Sanden. I have a 10ci York i'll install this fall. Kilby hasnt released an XJ specific bracket for the install yet but some have done it...easy to fab up a bracket. Do a search here or at NAXJA on Borton's posts...he added a York on his XJ.

Snorkel...if you plan to buy one there is only one available through the aftermarket...Safari. I have it and it utilizes the factory airbox. I love it, picked up some MPG and power according to the "butt dyno".

I also have a quik-air...ok for air'n up tires but i wouldnt want to count on it for an OBA setup for air tools etc.

BTW...Kilby sells a pulley for the alternator to York compressor.

www.onboardair.com

My batt will be relocated and hopefully done in a dual setup. I'v been thinking of recessing the batts under the rear seat in pans cut into and lower'd thru the floor. I'v worked on Audi S cars that were done in this fashion...

http://www.autocolorado.com/liftpics/MVC-021F.JPG

http://www.autocolorado.com/forsale/MVC-010F.JPG

yep...those are 31's baby! hardcore!!!!

OBA=Second compressor next to the AC. The Kilby TJ bracket will work but needs to be modified a bit. Get the battery tray for RHD XJs and move it to where the airbox is. Get the turbo city intake that routes the filter over the oil filter. Farmer Matt did this and while it's a tight fit, it is pretty clean install.

Do keep in mind that newer model XJ's typicall need a SYE and CV driveshaft to rid you of driveline vibes. You might get away not having to do this with 3" lift, but budget for it if you have 4.5" lift.

RE arms are generally considered the best for XJ's. Properly welded. Good advice on the Alcan springs sold by bigoffroad.com, I have been hearing very good thing about these.

If I were you I would do these mods in this order:
Sway Bar disconnects
Ditch the rear sway bar
Rocker sliderz
lunch box rear locker (No-slip)
(wheel it for a while this way)
33s (eeek 3.07 gears!)
4.5" RE/Alcan
Trim the wheel opening a bit.
SYE, skip the RE hack&tap and get the AA or JB that replaces the output shaft. Cheaper would be Tom Woods which modifies the original shaft.

Stage III
Find a rear D44 from an XJ 0r BB BB 9" from an EB or narrow a housing from F150 and order Dutchman 31SP shafts.
DO NOT INVEST $.01 IN THE D35.
Big question is do you want to build the D30. A D60 is overkill and weighs a hell of a lot and ground clearance sucks with less than 37-38.5" tires. A D44 will get you a larger ring gear for deeper gearing choices, slightly larger housing, 30 v27SP axles, manual locking hubs. The weak point is still the 297 ujoints where most D44/D30 failures occur. You will likely have to spend some decent cash building the D44 (narrowing, custom axles, welding on spring perches/CA mounts). You can very comfortably run 35" tires on D30s, and with a Warn hub conversion you can run the CTMs.

Stage IV
Atlas, Divorce.

Good luck and stick with that NAXJA board for good advice from guys that have built XJs'

SeanP

Originally posted by SeanP
Stage IV
Atlas, Divorce.


LOL...isn't this about where you are at?..Should have bought an Atlas prior to getting married;)

Originally posted by Scout Dude


LOL...isn't this about where you are at?..Should have bought an Atlas prior to getting married;)

no shiat Joel. Aren't you getting married soon? Hope you got all the major scout projects paid for. The missus just doesn't understand how a TC that is smaller than the existing TC could cost $2500. She complained about the money spent on the BMW to go faster, no she complains about the money spent on the XJ to go slower.

Kidding, love my wife. She has never given me a hard time about spending $$$ on my hobby. Mind you I have been restraining myself for about 6 months so I can get that Atlas this fall

SeanP

If you don't mind using some sawsall magic you could almost fit any tire you want. Just got my 36x12.5 SX's on my settled 3" lift with some sawsall magic and a large hammer. :) Yeah they may rub a tad at full flex but thats what the 6" lift in the garage if for.

SeanP,
That's almost the very same route I was going to pursue.. but skip the rear locker.. go with a ARB up front, let the rear trash-loc work for a bit.

Then look for either a 8.8 or a 44, swap that in the rear.

Already bought the disco's.. , and I have no rear sliders.. working on a good set of 2x2 square tube sliders now.. will likely bend some tube to attach off of them... could be a good start to a nice exo..

If I go with a snorkel later.. doesn't it need the air-box to stay where it's at.... if so.. any other suggestions for a battery location? Perhaps under the rear seat? Using Optima's or other Gels, they can sit on their side.. correct?

Paul:

I would ditch the snorkle. I only know of a couple of guys on the Naxja board that have them and for the most part they are posers. Unless you live in Australia where they raise the air intake to do water crossing or avoid all the blowing sand, snorkles are pretty :rainbow:

Full size battery won't fit under the rear seat without modifying the floorboards a bunch.

ARB upfront is good. You have the 297 ujoints so your front end will hold up pretty well. Just be mindful of getting on the throttle when your wheel is turned and the ARB is locked. SPecially in reverse! Trashlock will be pretty good for a while, plus you can modify them to be pretty tight by adding plates. Damn near a spool from the guys I have talked to.

Good luck

SeanP

Talking about adding plates.. any idea of where one would find them sold like that?

No need for the snorkel then? Just remember taking my Bronco through Hackett/Longwater and having it fairly high.. and the Cherokee intake is soo much lower then the Bronco's intake was.

LMAO...snorkels arent just for Posers bro!! :flipoff2:

I was at Paragon a few years ago and damn near hydrolocked a NEW engine, after i rolled and totaled that truck in Tellico i started building another XJ. Bigger and badder. I came across a deal on an unused snorkel and jumped on it. Paul, your right that the air inlet on an XJ is low, anytime i'v nosed into a creek or water hole i always winced (not winched) when water came over the hood..better safe than sorry is my philosophy when it comes to a $2K bill.

I think you should be fine with the D30 (297's) and 33's for now. Building up a 44 at a later date is good advice.

Here's something i'v been wondering...is it possible to narrow a HP44 from a ford and use Waggy axleshafts?

Originally posted by MilspecXJ
LMAO...snorkels arent just for Posers bro!! :flipoff2:


Here's something i'v been wondering...is it possible to narrow a HP44 from a ford and use Waggy axleshafts?

Yep, that;s what Crash (andy)did. He got a HP44 from a 78 or 79 F150 with the weld-on radius arm mounts (versus cast in). He narrowed it so that one side (pass) used standard Waggy axles.

SeanP

Originally posted by SeanP


Yep, that;s what Crash (andy)did. He got a HP44 from a 78 or 79 F150 with the weld-on radius arm mounts (versus cast in). He narrowed it so that one side (pass) used standard Waggy axles.

SeanP


I was doing some research today and caught wind of someone else using a HP44 with waqgy shaft. I wasnt aware the drivers side was left all stock Ford.

Is the non cast radius setup common? Will it be a PITA to find one? And this will be 6lug?

I apologize for taking this thread off the orig posters intended direction.

the drivers side isn't stock length, the pass side i beleive was cut down to use stock waggy D 44 axles (the late ones with the drivers side drop). Yep, 6 lug. I beleive the range of years for the F150 with the welded radius arm mounts was 77-79. Broncos should be the same

Andy Fecko (afecko on this board, crash on the NAXJA board) did this setup. I am sure that you can search the NAXJA board for his exact set up. Richard Gautier (President of NAXJA, from Bakersfield) has a very similiar 44. His handle on NAXJA is Goatman.

Sorry to take this thread in another direction.

SeanP

Can tell you from experience that the '78/'79 Bronco's are cast in, not welded on. I believe that they stopped welding them on in '77..

Yep, 77 and prior are weld-on. I've got a 75 HP F150 D44 in my garage, next to my rear D60. All going in the XJ someday.

My D44 as it sets, with Dodge outer knuckles and discs, is 66" WMS to WMS. If I want to take it down to 60.5", I need to lose 5.5". The stock F150 axles are: 33.91" + 18.91" = 52.82". Now if I take 5.5" from 52.82", I need shafts that add up to 47.32". I have some stock IH Scout II D44 shafts in my garage. They measure 32.91" + 14.78" = 47.69", a .37" difference from where I need to be.

When you really start to dig, you can easily come up with a set-up that will net about any width front axle. IE: if you want a wider WMS to WMS measurement, use a IH long side (32.91) and a waggy short side (15.8), 32.91" + 15.8" = 48.71, netting a WMS to WMS measurement of 61.89". Waggy long (33.19) + Waggy short (15.8) = WMS to WMS of 62.1, etc, etc. The combinations are endless. I have tons of info on this, PM me for more.

*Note: Your results may very, WMS to WMS measurements will be different depending on the brake setup on each axle. If you are using 83 Dodge outer knuckles and all, you can take these measurments to the bank.*

Sorry about the off topic thought. Sean P pretty much covered the original question.

Willis
NAXJA member #463

I didn't read the lower posts...but if you want a lift where you can easily run 33's or 35's I'd get the 5.5 Inch Rubicon Kit. I would definitley get the drop down brackets if you don't long arm it. O, as previously stated RE does NOT make a 6' leaf packet, its a 4.5" with a 1" drop shackle.

My friend fit 33"s with minor trimming and 35"s with more trimming.

I think thats your best bet unless youre longarming it, then I'd just go with the TJ Longarms and build your own crossmember.

i just happen to be selling the d44 out of a 87 xj you are looking for. abflexj@aol.com for more info or it is in the for sale forum