Welcome to the next contribution to the
The Official Pirate4x4.com Jeep Talk Bible (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=705122)

Topic of the Month :Unibody front leaf spring conversions

Show pics of your front leaf swap.
Tell us what worked good for you an what you would do different.

Ill start with some leaf spring tech.

Formula to calculate spring rate
Leaf spring rate Formula:
[((Width of leaves in inches)X(Number of leaves))/12]X[(1000Xthickness of one leaf in inches)/(length of spring eye to eye)]^3= spring rate

Rancho 44044: 2.5in lift 76-92Wagoneer 7 leafs,
About 8in lift if used on an XJ front SOA.
76-92 Wagoneer Rancho 44044 47.00 22.9" 20.8" 2.50" SUA
300#sq/in
Free Arch: 8.45" @ pin
1.68in leaf pack thickness, 10.13in from pad to eye height.
Eye to eye (not following the spring): 43.64
Eye to eye (following arch): about 48in
2.5in of lift over stock YJ leafs.

JC Whitney 76-92Wagoneer Front 7 leafs #07AU2048P Dimensions:
About 6in lift if used on an XJ Front SOA
76 Jeep Wagoneer 4wd front (6 leaf) 48" 24" 24" 2.50" SUA
Free Arch: 7" @ pin
1.81in leaf pack thickness, 8.81in from pad to eye height
Eye to eye (not following the spring): 44 9/16
Eye to eye (following arch): 48 1/8
TO Center pin. 22.5/24.5, 2in off set
1-1.5" of lift over stock YJ leafs.
The 7 leaf has the capacity of 1335lbs
used stock '70s waggoneer front..........200lb/in

Rancho 44050 (jeep yj 2.5").................175lb/in
About 8in lift if used on an XJ front SOA.
Jeep YJ Front or Rear 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.50" SUA


Leaf Spring Dimensions and researched spring rates
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
old Rancho 4" for toyota.......................300lb/in

BDS 4" waggy front springs Part:004402 are 450 lbs./in (7 leaf if i remember right) $81 each
BDS 3.5in YJ leafs, Part: 004351 Front
BDS 3.5in YJ leafs, Part: 004359 Rear

Rusty's 3.5"-4" waggy fronts springs are 5 leaf 310 lbs/in

Toy leaf dimensions:
http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/misc__spring_information.htm
80-88 Toy rear 48" 20.5" 27.5" 2.36" SOA (SR5 1985 is 280lb/in)
Toyota front 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.36" SOA
80-85 Rancho 3" Toyota front 45.12" 22.56" 22.56" 2.36" SOA
SkyJacker 5" Toyota front 46" 23" 23" 2.36" SOA
Mazda rear (?? year) 52" 26.5" 25.5" 2.36" SUA
80-88 Toy 4" SkyJacker Rear 49" 21" 28" 2.36" SOA
80-88 Toy 5" SkyJacker Rear 49.5" 21.25" 28.25" 2.36" SOA
89-95 Toy Rear 51" 21.5" 29.5" 2.36" SOA

84 Mazda 2wd rear 51.5" 25.5" 26" 2.36" SUA

84 Isuzu Trooper II rear 47" 21" 26" ??? SUA

83 Ford Ranger 2wd rear 57" 25.5" 31.5" 2.50" SUA

85 Chevy S-10 rear 54" 26" 27" 2.50" SUA
89 Chevy 1/2 ton2wd rear 63" ?? ?? 2.50" SUA

87-95 dakota Dakota rears 2.5" wide use Xj main leaf and Dakota leafs net 3.5inlift

Jeep YJ Front or Rear 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.50" SUA
Jeep YJ Pro Comp 2.5" Lift 46" 23" 23" 2.50 SUA
76 Jeep Wagoneer 4wd front (6 leaf) 48" 24" 24" 2.50" SUA
76-92 Wagoneer Rancho 44044 47.00 22.9" 20.8" 2.50" SUA
76 Jeep Wagoneer 4wd rear (6 leaf) 57" 26" 31" 2.50" SOA
84 Jeep Cherokee rear (4 leaf) 52.5" 23.5" 29" 2.50" SOA

My first leaf swap on the XJ I chose to run XJ rears.
I purchased a 78-79 Ford D60 with a 31.5in center pin leaf spring mounting width to match the XJ frame width.

I added leafs to make it about 3-4in lift for 37s.
I had a 4in lift YJ pack I used the main leaf with the eyes cut off.
Stock YJ for the Third and 4th leafs.
Main leaf and smallest leafs were XJ.
The XJ main leaf did not like all the weight
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/IMG_0417.jpg
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/P0001800_croped.JPG

I had no panhard bar so I could not control my steer. I added a Ram assist and steering control again. With out the ram when bound up the steering wheel would shift the body but not turn the wheels. Around town it the steering was fine with or without the ram.

I bent many main leafs and gave up on the XJ main leafs and went to shorter Mil wraped toyota mini truck rears. I used a set of 6in wagoneer leafs to add to the pack. My rig was on 42s now and abit taller about 8in lift. I added a traction bar to each side. The traction bar was a arm that came up off the Ubolt plate with a link mounted where the leaf spring mounts to the frame.

My shackles were an anti kick back design so at full droop the shckle could not come furter back to dammage the leafs.

This setup survived several trips.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_arm2_158.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/arm2_158.jpg)

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_100_1560_188.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_100_1670_598.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/100_1670_598.jpg)

A plate and bolt kit, bailing wire, ducktape and clamps are a must for leaf spring trail repairs.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_100_1673_352.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/100_1673_352.jpg)


If I was to do it over again, I would start out with a good traction bar setup. and I would do shackle in back with the shackle recessed into the frame similar to my upper link mounts on my current 4link

Id mount the shackle here
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0003_610.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/000_0003_610.jpg)

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0010_127.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/000_0010_127.jpg)
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0003_186.jpg (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/000_0003_186.jpg)
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0004_126.jpg

I think I am going to use BDS 3.5" YJ leafs and use Ashman's "frenching" Idea with the shackle in the rear. How muc lift do you think that will give? I wanna stay low! I could go with the 2.5" spings. What kind of shackle angles should I be looking for with the shackle reverse? Im wanting to stay low, have alot of down travel, not much uptravel.

I used 2.5" RE yj springs with the shackle in the front and it sits level wit 5.5" springs in the rear. Shackles are 5" to the center of the holes. Haven't had a chance to test it off road yet. Has a bit of bump steer, but I'm hoping a stabalizer shock will cure most of that.

I would nout recommend a low pinion front axle. I got a great deal on mine and thought it wouldn't be that bad, but I will soon be tearing everything apart to cut and clock the inner knuckles back so I can shim it and keep the proper steering geometry. The yoke is close to binding with the drive shaft on level ground.

I used 2.5" RE yj springs with the shackle in the front and it sits level wit 5.5" springs in the rear. Shackles are 5" to the center of the holes. Haven't had a chance to test it off road yet. Has a bit of bump steer, but I'm hoping a stabalizer shock will cure most of that.

I would nout recommend a low pinion front axle. I got a great deal on mine and thought it wouldn't be that bad, but I will soon be tearing everything apart to cut and clock the inner knuckles back so I can shim it and keep the proper steering geometry. The yoke is close to binding with the drive shaft on level ground.

Thanks for the help! I have a HP44 so hats good news to me. If I go with the 2.5" springs can I just use a longer shackle if I need more lift? Is there a draw back to a long shackle? What does the angle do for you? I was thinking about running something like this to get more down travel.

heres a link to my thread...
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=676891&highlight=

i like the setup personally im using factory waggy leaves hung off angle at the frame and 2 inch yj shackles.... would like it to be lower but a wider stance would help it out a lot. drives well on the street and continues to prove itslef on the trail..

static shackle angle
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d144/rcdoug/P1000934-1.jpg

and if anyone says leaves dont work
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d144/rcdoug/P1000633.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d144/rcdoug/P1000971.jpg

im happy with it as a trail rig now, but probaly in the next year its getting a full tube structure and link setups (read xj buggy :D)

Ok heres my take on it-

I swapped in a 78 f250 HP44 front, decided on leafs because I like the idea of easy axle swaps, and I just felt like doing it.

Rather then use the stock LCA paper thin mounts, i fabbed some new 1/4 plate mounts that bolt through the frame with welded sleeves, and are then welded to the unirails.

I selected 1988 CHevy s10 blazer springs to give me a 104.5" wheelbase (keeping the rear in stock location). The catch to this that I found out later is that there were virtually no good aftermarket springs for the rear of the s10. This sucks because the factory leaves have a dip at each eye that makes utilizing a military wrap impossible. A quick call to Alcan got me my main leaves with military seconds, i filled in the rest with GMC 2500 series leaves.

This was the setup while being built.
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff236/BlackSkies7/PB100108.jpg

After finishing up I took it through some red trails at rausch creek. I was pretty impressed at how she did, unfortunately those pics are on my backup drive so here is one on another trail at rausch called "stout"
(for those who wheel rausch, doesn't this look different then the trail I thought used to be called stout?)
http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff236/BlackSkies7/PICT0171.jpg

Thanks for the help! I have a HP44 so hats good news to me. If I go with the 2.5" springs can I just use a longer shackle if I need more lift? Is there a draw back to a long shackle? What does the angle do for you? I was thinking about running something like this to get more down travel.

I think that angle is a little bit much. I would run it a little steeper. your really not going to gain that much drop.

I may just forget staying low and keep it simple. I lust thought it would be kewl to make an xj like this:

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f149/black92se/DSCN3073.jpg


Are we aloud to post links here? I was not going to but this seems to be going slow. I have a bunch that I am subscribed to.

I did my front leaf swap about two and a half years ago and have overall been very pleased. It was my first serious fabrication project and as such made plenty of mistakes. Nothing terribly exciting or different about my build - pretty similar to others.... Shackle up front etc.

My Front Crossmember
WHAT I LIKE: It brings the beef being held on with a total of 17 Grade 8 or Metric 8.8 bolts.
WHAT I WOULD CHANGE: I would have done 3/16's... 1/4" is a little overkill in this application (IMO).
>>Here is the start of it:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfOC-dwwjI/AAAAAAAABXQ/r241gle1yaQ/s640/DSCF0173.JPG


Front Spring Hangers
WHAT I LIKE: I dunno... they haven't torn off yet???
WHAT I WOULD CHANGE: Just buy em. There are a ton of good shops making these pre-fab builder parts now. I prolly wasted half a day making those things.
>>Nothing really special
http://lh6.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfODHE6XiI/AAAAAAAABXY/IpqJ2Lry26Y/s640/DSCF0179.JPG


Rear Spring Hanger
WHAT I LIKE: Slim, tight design. Just about impossible to get hung up on due to the angle shape both in the vertical and horizontal planes. The mount also ties to unibody reinforcements (angle iron).
WHAT I WOULD CHANGE: Use a band saw to make em next time. Accurate repeatable cuts with a abrasive chop saw suck.
>>Here you get a feel for the low profile shape
http://lh5.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfODge3a9I/AAAAAAAABXo/jSMa-8NvHl0/s640/DSCF0189.JPG


Suspension
WHAT I LIKE: The Rubicon Express springs have been pretty good so far. These are the extreme duty YJ 2.5's. I am also using a stock height (4" i think) YJ shackle from RE. Flex great, ride is pretty good.
WHAT I DONT LIKE: The springs have sagged out a bit more than I would have hoped - even being properly bumpstopped. I would do a 3.5" spring next time. Also, an anti-kickback shackle is a MUST. I have managed to tweak my driver side front main leaf.
>> Freshly painted
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfOE8ghJeI/AAAAAAAABYI/Z84RZNgJLws/s640/DSCF0205.JPG


Steering
WHAT I LIKE: It's highsteer...
WHAT I DONT LIKE: Since i dont have a trackbar, there is a noticeable dead spot in my steering. Also, I am using the stock pitman arm reamed out to accept the 1-ton TRE's. Due to this, I don't have full steering in one direction when fully flexed. A Waggy DPA would fix this. Hydro assist is also on the long list of future projects.
>> Standard Hi-Steer
http://lh3.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfOFgMNdnI/AAAAAAAABYs/fkVHdci_mqo/s640/DSCF0035.JPG


All Finished Up
http://lh3.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/SPfOFV9m7rI/AAAAAAAABYk/IkMMPYKgv-U/s640/DSCF0209.JPG


Front Springs in Action
http://lh4.ggpht.com/jmckenzie5/Rx_vRibSCVI/AAAAAAAAAG0/dsC-US4cq0A/s640/DSCF1076.JPG


I also did this writeup shortly after I built it. I may include some build details I forgot: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=723765&postcount=143

I am using the stock pitman arm reamed out to accept the 1-ton TRE's. Due to this, I don't have full steering in one direction when fully flexed. A Waggy DPA would fix this. Hydro assist is also on the long list of future projects.

If you guys are having trouble with the off the shelf d44 arm hole matching the XJ pittman arm this might be an option.
This is what I did as a quick fix on my buddies FJ40.
I think it's a jeep box (might be different) with an XJ arm reamed out for 1ton TREs and d44 High steer
Pictured are the
ES2027L and ES2026R on the drag link
ES2233L on the tierod had to be reimed larger to accept the ES2027, A ES2234R on the DS tierod.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_100_2663_457.jpg

The drag link would have hit the leafs, the TRE I reimed from the top, looks strang but worked great.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_100_2655_541.jpg

Here is the link to my build. I'll hi-light some main points

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=634073&highlight=

This is what I started with. Poorly done shackle reversal. I kept the crossmember just the way it was. Worked very well for me, and left room for an aftermarket bumper to fit still (after a bit of trimming of both bumper and crossmember
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/xj_man_646/JeepPics007.jpg

Springs: Stock CJ7 rear springs. What I'd change is get some that weren't so blown out. These sat flat at static height.

Shackle mount: Home-brew to accept an XJ shackle. I'd change this to accept a normal shackle like from a YJ. (Later I changed shackles to 1.5" lift shackles, made the angle much happier)

Rear mount: Stock LCA with some 1/8" steel welded to each side to beef it up. These were not on the Jeep when I bought it, so I sourced these from a junkyard, beefed them up, and had them welded on by a professional welder friend of mine. Same holds true about the welding for the spring perches (I was a noob welder back then and didn't trust myself). I liked how these mounts worked quite well. With the length of spring I was using it was a good fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/xj_man_646/Jeepbuilduppics011.jpg

Spring perch: The TAD perch from IFSJA.org. I loved these perches. Worked very very well and IMO helped quite a bit with axle wrap. I never had bad wrap until I got into snow. Loved these perches
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/xj_man_646/Jeepbuilduppics016.jpg

Steering: Stock location of the tie rod, high-draglink. Loved it. Never really noticed any dead spots or places where the body would move instead of the wheels but I never really wheeled THAT hard...a stock 44 can only hold so much :laughing:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v723/xj_man_646/DSC00337.jpg

General take: It was simple, and worked well. I have since built another XJ with links up front and am much happier. The stock XJ configuration of links sucks IMO but I did a hidden 3 link + panhard bar and am absolutely in love with it. But, if you're on a tight budget and want a different set of axles leaves are a great way to go IMO.

anybody used 56inch blazer leafs??
i know they put them on the front of the older chevys for more flex

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=710222

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=688186

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=622952

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=612953

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=232083

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27835&page=12&highlight=front+leaf+spring+thread



I figured if it is going to be in the jeep bible that it should atleast have more info in it. This is what me research has netted me.

My .02. I think these post' on TOTM are fawkin sweet. They really bring out what people have done and is an easy source for searching. I will drop a couple here.http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/006-2.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/049-3.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/009-1.jpg
Had to cut out the original spring mounts as they had been poorly designed. I used YJ spring hangars from MORE, and welded them flat to the bottom of the chassis. I used 1/4" plate to reinforce the unibody there. The hangars are pretty stout, and work well.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/004.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/005.jpg
You can see the mounts I used for the front pretty well. They are well reinforced at this point and are constructed using 1/4" plate as well.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/015.jpg
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x75/ROKCHEV/021.jpg
As you can see, the approach angle is sick! :smokin: All I got on the comp now. More pics to come of the fab work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=742762
Here is mine. Ill post in that thread what I liked, didnt like, and what I wished I would have done when I get it finished and tested

The cj7 rear springs are VERY SOFT. I got a crap ton of axle wrap and bounce with them. I talked to BadAssXj and he changed out his CJ springs for waggys. I might try some aftermarket heavy duty Cj springs. What sring weight should I go for? How close are the YJ front springs in length to CJ's?

The cj7 rear springs are VERY SOFT. I got a crap ton of axle wrap and bounce with them. I talked to BadAssXj and he changed out his CJ springs for waggys. I might try some aftermarket heavy duty Cj springs. What sring weight should I go for? How close are the YJ front springs in length to CJ's?

CJ springs are narrower then XJ, YJ, and Wagoneer leafs.
You have the YJ dimensions and Wagoneer dimensions in my earlier post.

CJ springs are narrower then XJ, YJ, and Wagoneer leafs.
You have the YJ dimensions and Wagoneer dimensions in my earlier post.

rear cj7 springs are 2.5" ill check your earlier post for a spring that looks good.

anybody used 56inch blazer leafs??
i know they put them on the front of the older chevys for more flex

The rear Blazers are actually 52" long and they work great for a front swap on an older GM rig.

Hey sorry to bring up an old thread. Im new to pirate..hi, and im doing a leaf swap up front on my 98 xj and im using stock yj rear packs mixed with some front yj springs making it a 6 leaf pack. My question is how much of a lift do the stock yj springs net? And with a 6 leaf pack what do you think ill net? Im using a 5 inch eye to eye shackle. Thx.

Ive been looking through all this stuff a lot lately too, and I figure based on this

Rancho 44050 (jeep yj 2.5").................175lb/in
About 8in lift if used on an XJ front SOA.
Jeep YJ Front or Rear 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.50" SUA

You could assume that the stock YJ pack nets about 5.5"

Not sure how that accurate that would be, based on possibilities of different spring rates - etc, but hey its something

i have 4" yj leafs on the way for my conversion, ill post up some info when i get it all fabbed

pros and cons of shackle in the front?
boomerang shackles help any?

since it was an ongoin thread thought i would ask

93 yj front springs with 2X2 box for a shackle mount and 4in shackles. Gave me like 6+in of lift and killer flex handled great on and off the con as well

So what is the bottom line opinion on leaf swaps? I have no problem with fabrication, and it seems like leafs are going backwards.
Overall would you do it again? why?
I am thinking about going to a HP d44/9" (I have them) and extending the factory radius arms. My other choice is chevy D44/12b and a leaf swap(I can run a 231/300 doubler this way).
Other than my UBER inferior axle choices(I don't have a 60 and can't afford one right now)would you choose the leaf swap over an extended radius arm?

I am leaning toward the radius arm, but would like to know the benefits everyone has found with the leaf swap

EDIT: I'm pretty light footed most of the time and I won't be on anything bigger than 35"s

Why couldn’t you put new spring perches on the Chevy stuff if wanted there’s prows and cons to both I did it because I was tearing up my frame (used loosely) and I had the stuff at the time so it was basically free to do so I rather long arms and springs personally

I totally could. But what i'm getting at is, why should I if someone has a damn good reason to go to leafs(I don't see one, but it seems popular). The doubler isn't really a big deal to me as I can still run it with the driver drop shit if I buy a flip kit for the 300. I was just wondering if anyone had a seriously good reason for switching, other than cost. The simplicity I get for sure.

i have a leaf conversion too in mi xj but i have a problem first of all im a daily driver and when im driving it and its a bumpy road i feel how the car moves from side too side like in a 4 link with out a track bar
so i went to chevy forum and i saw a bunch of blazer´s and s10´s with front leafs and a track bar


so im planing tu build a track bar and put it
and see how it works
next week im posting pics

what do you think does anyone has that problem??

sorry it has front shackles a d44 35" pro comp´s

Anyone done this conversion and kept the lift low(ish) in the 3-4" range??? pics and info would be great if so.

i have a leaf conversion too in mi xj but i have a problem first of all im a daily driver and when im driving it and its a bumpy road i feel how the car moves from side too side like in a 4 link with out a track bar
so i went to chevy forum and i saw a bunch of blazer´s and s10´s with front leafs and a track bar


so im planing tu build a track bar and put it
and see how it works
next week im posting pics

what do you think does anyone has that problem??

Who cares about bumpy roads or daily drivers... :flipoff2:

Ram assist will kill two problems for you. If you do Ram assisted steering then there is no need for a Panhard bar and you will have an easier time trying to turn.

Has any one tried using the rustys 4" front yj leaf springs for the front of an xj? Part number RC-LS400F-YJ. Reading through the article most people seem to be using a 2.5" to a 3.5" spring. Would 4" be too much? Im looking to match the 6.5" rear lift i currently have on it, using my full width axles. Any info helps, thank you

Im running a HP44 with 2.5 in mil wrap BDS YJ springs on my MJ with a spring over lift on my d60 rear and 1.5 inch shackles on the rear. sits perfect, and I moved my front axle forward about 2 inches, which I RECOMMEND! shackles forward and Im using stock YJ shackles, springs in front are 29inches apart and it flexes extremely well.:smokin:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/P7060030.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/P7060026.jpghttp://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/P7060050.jpghttp://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/100_0893.jpghttp://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/0906081819.jpghttp://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/0906081926.jpghttp://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q126/xraidedj/100_0890.jpg

Thanks for the Files Timmay~ we will see how it works :laughing: Everyone keeps telling me its gonna break :laughing: Oh yea- Stock XJ springs. gonna put a full length add a leaf in, but it should be pretty low :smokin:

Thanks for the Files Timmay~ we will see how it works :laughing: Everyone keeps telling me its gonna break :laughing: Oh yea- Stock XJ springs. gonna put a full length add a leaf in, but it should be pretty low :smokin:

Youll be negatively arched untill you add the extra leafs, that shackle setup will be kickass, That will save you from bending main leafs. I wish I did that. That is a goona be nice...

Youll be negatively arched untill you add the extra leafs, that shackle setup will be kickass, That will save you from bending main leafs. I wish I did that. That is a goona be nice...

i Frenched the hanger in 2 3/4" up in the rail. next are the ruffstuff 3/16" stiffeners, etc. I will probably put a build thread up once its a roller. :emb2:

I am plannin a traction bar In front of the axle as well. its gonna be a funky machine :laughing: The front is setup with 4.5" of WB stretch.

here is a pic of the sliders. Timmay Did all the work, i just copied him :laughing:

So what is the bottom line opinion on leaf swaps? I have no problem with fabrication, and it seems like leafs are going backwards.
Overall would you do it again? why?

I am leaning toward the radius arm, but would like to know the benefits everyone has found with the leaf swap

EDIT: I'm pretty light footed most of the time and I won't be on anything bigger than 35"s

Maybe I can help you out a bit, as my first build on the XJ had a modified radius arm front.

The radius arms flexed better then the leafs, it actually put on one hell of a show. That said the leafs up front flexed enough for me, and were alot more predictable. Overall the leafs felt like a more solid setup. I also liked the fact that I could have bolted up a front 60 in place had the jeep lasted long enough.

I liked the leafs better then the radius arms, that said I guess it depends what you are willing to put in, and what you are looking to achieve. The leaf setup can be fabbed up very fast, and for me on the east coast, performed well.

couple of my swap. Front Xmember is 2x4 .95 wall against sandwiched between 2x6 .188 and the factory crossmember. ruffstuff 3" hanger plated in to everything. Big thanks to Tim and Liquid Iron for the leaf sliders. :smokin:

here it is with vehicle weight. Ill have plenty of action pics in a month or so.:smokin:

this is my xj in jacume, baja california, mexico

YouTube - caballota 1er salida con muelles classic rock & jeepinn 09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI5kqtPtBq8)

this is my xj in jacume, baja california, mexico

YouTube - caballota 1er salida con muelles classic rock & jeepinn 09 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI5kqtPtBq8)

While I was serenaded by the music, it still isn't exactly what we'd be looking for here....

anyone ever try and use a 2x2 or a 4x4 square tube and build a front section so you dont have to use a shackle front i have a hp44 that i am cleaning off all the coil set up to run leafs in my 89 cherokee

anyone ever try and use a 2x2 or a 4x4 square tube and build a front section so you dont have to use a shackle front i have a hp44 that i am cleaning off all the coil set up to run leafs in my 89 cherokee

That's what my setup is...I'm using 2x3 tubing for a front spring hanger with shackle boxes on the uni body to make it shackle back. When I first did the swap I used 4x4x1/4 angle iron an ran shackle forward and I prefer my setup now. Now if I were to do it again I'd turn the c's on the axle because if you wanna keep the front hanger tucked up tight you have to be careful because if you do that without turning the c's or using shims your pinion angle andsteering geometry will be terrible due to the unibody is lower than the stock front cross member area. Or maybe it depends on what leaves you use?? I'm using yj's. Do you get what I mean though lol?

i was thinkin of using ranger rears up front. with a set up close to yours

How long are those? Have you considered waggy springs? And what axle are you swapping...jw?

Wa-hcrc; that's a clever set up you've got goin on..I was wondering if you've used it yet and how it performed as well as how durable do you think it will be, for example when you flex out and your springs twist or articulate so to speak. Will it damage that glider piece? Or will it out last the good ol shackle and bushing set up?

Wa-hcrc; that's a clever set up you've got goin on..I was wondering if you've used it yet and how it performed as well as how durable do you think it will be, for example when you flex out and your springs twist or articulate so to speak. Will it damage that glider piece? Or will it out last the good ol shackle and bushing set up?

I have not used it yet. my Jeep is still in project stages. There are several leaf spring slider setups in use right now. Tim Diekman ( Timmay ) has been competeing in RCrocks with these in the rear of his jeep with great success. Check his build thread. there is a link in the cherokee Mission statement to his project. I still have some reinforcement to add to prevent side to side movement. the way they are setup, the UHMW puck isn't stressed in the way you are thinking. the bolt is tight in the slot and the uhmw.

Right on man thanks, looks good.

WOW there's a TON of great info in this thread!

What leafs should I use to get about 4.5-5" of lift? I read somewhere that the 2.5" YJ springs would net me around that height, but after reading this thread, it seems that's not the case.

WOW there's a TON of great info in this thread!

What leafs should I use to get about 4.5-5" of lift? I read somewhere that the 2.5" YJ springs would net me around that height, but after reading this thread, it seems that's not the case.

It all depends on how you mount the leafs. shackle position/type/length. Axle mounts, etc etc.

i used RE 2.5 spring over YJ lift springs and 4 inch long shackles with ruffstuff spring hanger. i had rustys 4.5 lift coils up front and when i did the swap i only sat about an half and inch higher in the front
http://s1007.photobucket.com/albums/af194/jeepheep91/

Jeepheep91- it looks like you're running a d60 correct? Anyways, Im about to swap my 60 in and I'm already running leaves, I was wondering did you use the 3rd member perch, and how did it line up the axle side to side wise?

yeah its a dodge 60 and i used both the stock perches. and the axle is centered up just right. i think they are 32.5 inches apart center pin to center pin so i made a cross member up front and set the hangers up for 32.5 and centered that up with the jeep and everthing came out just right.

Oh I see, you made your spring measurements according to the stock perches. Good idea. Now what I'm wondering is, if I match up my 3rd member perch to my driver side leaf if it will center the axle enough than I'll just relocate the passenger side perch. Or should I just wish in one hand an shit in the other? What do you guys think?

hey i am new to this but i a thinking of buying a xj that already has been converted to leaf springs but it was a crap job and i was wondering how hard it would be to go back to coils and what all i would need and how much it might would cost any advice would be great

and the only reason i am thinkin of buying the jeep is cuz it is a really good price thanks Ryan

Oh I see, you made your spring measurements according to the stock perches. Good idea. Now what I'm wondering is, if I match up my 3rd member perch to my driver side leaf if it will center the axle enough than I'll just relocate the passenger side perch. Or should I just wish in one hand an shit in the other? What do you guys think?

If you plan on narrowing the axle, you could use the cast in perch side, place the other leaf spring pearch were you want it, lopp off the inner c and a chunk of tube, and weld it back up. only downside to this is possibly a custom inner shaft. say you wanted to use a later model (88-91.5) with teh 36.5" perch width, you could build mounts for 32.5", use the drivers side cast in leaf spring mount, and move the passenger side mount inward 4", then narrow the passenger side tube 4"


I would not try to run the axle with one side side longer, off centerline of chassis. the world will implode and you will kill everyone :flipoff2:


hey i am new to this but i a thinking of buying a xj that already has been converted to leaf springs but it was a crap job and i was wondering how hard it would be to go back to coils and what all i would need and how much it might would cost any advice would be great

and the only reason i am thinkin of buying the jeep is cuz it is a really good price thanks Ryan



Post some pictures in teh JEEP Non Hardcore section, here- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=67

I have seen hack leaf setups using the factory lower control arm mounts and a shackle front, if its like this, its as simple as bolting in factory hardware (upper, & lower links, trac bar, coils.) You could also go with a radius arm setup, a 3 link setup, or really anything you want.

Please go read all the builds in here- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=582126

And decide if a cherokee build is something you want to embark on. It can be quite an undertaking, or just thrown together, only to fall apart later :D

We would rather not see some pictures of something you might buy. :homer:

Yes. Lots of searching... months of lerking...

1 tons and leaves on each corner. For the front... Going to do BDS springs. Not sure of what size and that's what I'm trying to figure out.

Very familar with the TOTM thread where dimensions are present. But they're free dimensions.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=720309

I've measured one YJ with BDS 5" springs and one stock Waggy.

Looking for static sitting level dimensions of a BDS spring, preferably 3.5 YJ one. Understand that different Jeeps weigh different amounts. I need a starting point. Will make part of it adjustable and can fine tune with shackles.

If I missed in the search... what can I say... :flipoff2:

Only really care about how much the spring has compressed (draw straight line eye to eye, and then to the top of the spring pack) and the eye to eye length itself (straight line)

http://www.sija.org/robs/leafdims.gif

Its a YJ leaf just mimic a YJ mount and shackle. The same mounting points and shackle length are needed regardless of the sprung weight differences between an XJ and a YJ.

Understood. Looking for how compressed it is sitting static with an XJ on top of it. Just for a starting place understanding different Jeeps weigh different amounts. Want to know where to french in the frame. Would rather have real world data than an estimation based on spring rate / etc.

Understood. Looking for how compressed it is sitting static with an XJ on top of it. Just for a starting place understanding different Jeeps weigh different amounts. Want to know where to french in the frame. Would rather have real world data than an estimation based on spring rate / etc.

Just swag it in. I have yj leafs on my xj and its pretty easy to put them where they need to go. check my build thread

What about mud & dirt getting in the slider mechanism. Looks like it would wear out the UHMW pretty quick,.

For anyone keeping track. Spring dims

http://www.sija.org/robs/leafdims2.gif

Front mounts (tied to bumper & reinforced frame. Made removable so they can be adjusted easier.

http://www.sija.org/robs/1ton58.jpg

Rear mounts. Frenched in. Bolt is 3-1/2" from floor board.

http://www.sija.org/robs/1ton67.jpg

Was attemping to make this a bit more rigid. Stock YJ length at 4"

http://www.sija.org/robs/1ton77.jpg

Tranfercase cross member on 37" is at 22" Rear is 7-1/2" lift. Front is about 1" taller with this set up, including frenched rear mount.

http://www.sija.org/robs/1ton78.jpg

first off I am pretty happy overall with my front leafs.
Lately I have been tosing around the idea of putting a track bar on my jeep with the front leafs. When im driving fown the road it feels like the front axle wonders under the jeep. I just thought it as becuase the knuckles arent cut and turned yet.

-When the jeep sits there you can see the shackles are angled one way or the other.

-Even with hydro assit, there seems to be a dead spot in the steering. Im thinking the steering is pusing the axle over b4 it turns the wheels.

-Last weekend I let someone else drive my jeep and when they were climbing some rocks I could see the front end shiting. All the play seems to be in the bushing. I have brand new BDS millwrsp 3.5" soft top yj leafs. The busings where the shackle mounts to the jeep is blown out. Its just a poly cj unit. I have some spares but they keep getting ate up.

I was thinking about putting a track bar on it to help the steering dead spot and to help road manners. I would prob leave it on for off road too. What you guys think? Like 1.5" DOM sleeved with 1.75" with 7/8" rod ends with misalignment spacers? I would keep it at the same angle as the drap link. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? I like to drive it on the steet so I would like to get the wondering to stop. or should I cut and turn the knuckles first and see where that gets me? Knuckles or not, the axle is still moving side to side.

here is my set up (dont mind the buper drops (cops been on me)):

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=551088&stc=1&d=1285874727

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=551087&stc=1&d=1285874727

Dont hurt me too bad for this stupid question. I have 6" lift springs from a '77 CJ5 and I'm thinking about converting to front leaf using those. From what I can tell, I'm going to get about 6" of lift in the rear using those but the front has me concerned. If I were to use the CJ5 springs, what could I do to keep the front at about the same amount of lift? SUA?

Dont hurt me too bad for this stupid question. I have 6" lift springs from a '77 CJ5 and I'm thinking about converting to front leaf using those. From what I can tell, I'm going to get about 6" of lift in the rear using those but the front has me concerned. If I were to use the CJ5 springs, what could I do to keep the front at about the same amount of lift? SUA?

Im using 4 inch rear YJ leafs, and it got me about 7-8 in of lift in the front, so I would say that 6 in leafs are going to get you quite a bit more. It really just depends on how you build it.

first off I am pretty happy overall with my front leafs.
Lately I have been tosing around the idea of putting a track bar on my jeep with the front leafs. When im driving fown the road it feels like the front axle wonders under the jeep. I just thought it as becuase the knuckles arent cut and turned yet.

-When the jeep sits there you can see the shackles are angled one way or the other.

-Even with hydro assit, there seems to be a dead spot in the steering. Im thinking the steering is pusing the axle over b4 it turns the wheels.

-Last weekend I let someone else drive my jeep and when they were climbing some rocks I could see the front end shiting. All the play seems to be in the bushing. I have brand new BDS millwrsp 3.5" soft top yj leafs. The busings where the shackle mounts to the jeep is blown out. Its just a poly cj unit. I have some spares but they keep getting ate up.

I was thinking about putting a track bar on it to help the steering dead spot and to help road manners. I would prob leave it on for off road too. What you guys think? Like 1.5" DOM sleeved with 1.75" with 7/8" rod ends with misalignment spacers? I would keep it at the same angle as the drap link. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? I like to drive it on the steet so I would like to get the wondering to stop. or should I cut and turn the knuckles first and see where that gets me? Knuckles or not, the axle is still moving side to side.

here is my set up (dont mind the buper drops (cops been on me)):



looks to me as your wondering may be inpart to your shackle angles. I think you should mount the shackle 1" further forward.