Has anyone used and abused this on their rig in here? Just so happens for a mere $170 you can have a flat belly. Sounds almost too good to be true :p

http://www.budbuilt.com/new/images/budbuilt_taco_clocking.gif

I'm somewhat interested in doing this on my truck but I don't even know what it looks like since Bud doesn't have a picture of the actual adapter itself :eek: I'm also curious about the adapter working with a Marlin MC-09 dual case setup. There wasn't a thread on this before so I figured I'd start one since I'm going to have to rip out my t-cases and tranny to replace the clutch sometime this winter :( Might as well install some other shit down there to make it work better :laughing:

I'm interested in the shifter solution required for this fiasco...

I'm interested in the shifter solution required for this fiasco...

I would imagine you just cut and re-weld the shifter the same amount of degrees you clock the t-case :confused: Doesn't seem too difficult considering the amount of other work we do on these damn trucks :laughing:

why not just swap your adapter for a clockable marlin adapter?

Give Bud or Jim at Inchworm a call. Jim carries Bud's stuff and is extremely knowledgeable and helpful and will be able to tell you what parts will work with what.

I'm not all that familiar with Taco cases, but my guess is that Bud's adapter would work between your mc-09 and rear case.

intrested too.....

When they 1st came out i talkd with BUD, and he said it would not work, I would need to send him my mc-09 and he would have to "mill" it or some thing like that, been a while.

Maybe his design has changed a little since and will work now....

-David

I would imagine you just cut and re-weld the shifter the same amount of degrees you clock the t-case :confused: Doesn't seem too difficult considering the amount of other work we do on these damn trucks :laughing:

Probably right. My FROR twin sticks have already been chopped and flipped to clear my tranny shifter so they wouldn't exactly be virgins to modification.

Just heat and bend the sticks or just cut and weld. It's pretty easy either way. Copy of my old write-up:

30* transfer case clocking adapter
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/03435f65.jpg


Only real gripe was that a couple of the studs weren't really welded properly. Just took a minute to tighten 'em down re-tack and grind flush. Final facing was done with a file.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/5d872f04.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/0aaefeb8.jpg


Drill out holes 1,2 and 3. I used a 5/16 th's bit. Aluminum is pretty soft, so be careful. Test fit the ring before you install it on the t-case, as you might have to drill one of the holes out slightly larger.

Hole #4 is for a recessed head allen bolt. It usually comes taped into the adapter when you get it.
Image borrowed from isloth on TTORA
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/c39cb0c3.jpg

Drop the clocking ring onto the t-case and install bolt w/ anti-seize. Bud provides a 5mm allen key but I used a socket to ensure proper torque specs.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/d5f12527.jpg

Before t-case removal, I rotated it upward with a jack and eyeballed where I thought it would need clearance. Next step was to drill a couple holes to give myself an idea of a cutting line from above.

No turning back now... BTW, this still wasn't enough cutting.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/61f2ae06.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/a139c22b.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/3d70c8ef.jpg

Jacked the t-case into place and slowly started threading in the bolt in the #4 position. Then slowly working my way around the assembly being careful not to bind up on the #4 bolt or output shaft. This was probably the most time consuming part of the operation.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/6fc3d577.jpg

After it was bolted up, I added the oil back and covered up the shifter hole to prevent any metal debris from getting inside.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/dd68d80c.jpg

Sheet metal work went fairly quickly, however it was getting a bit late to be grinding so I sprayed on a coat of primer and decided to finish in the morning, hence the lumpy welds.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/23614a50.jpg

Tapped the breather out of my twin-stick shifter with a punch, then proceeded to tap the existing hole with a 1/8"-27 NPT tap, which fits quite nicely.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/c9d13f39.jpg

You will need to re-work 1/2 of your driver's side seat mounts if you go the no-body lift route.

Flizat:
http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/T-case%20clocking/7eefe449.jpg

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t69/Philfab/SAC/DSCN0321.jpg

i got it but i have a single t-case, is not hard at all and the results are really good, just cut the t-case shifter and reweld to right location, need to fix the floor board a little, i didn't have to cut the floorboard like philfab did, all i cut was for the shifter that's it. now i need to build a skid plate. i also had to cut and modify the fror crossmember. you can see pics in my link in my sig.
but for the money is a nice upgrade

TTT
so have anyone done this with dual cases?

-David

TTT
so have anyone done this with dual cases?

-David


Dont see why it would be any different since your adapter plates have the same bolt patten.

Dont see why it would be any different since your adapter plates have the same bolt patten.


Thats what i have always thought, but like i said when i first talked ot bud he said it wouldn't work.... heck I'll just give him a call in the morning
David

Thats what i have always thought, but like i said when i first talked ot bud he said it wouldn't work.... heck I'll just give him a call in the morning
David

What was the verdict on using it?

What was the verdict on using it?


We shall sooon find out...

-David

We shall sooon find out...

-David

So you decided to just order it and see if it works? Well shit while you have it apart lets add the sight tube.

Still no verdict?

??? hows she runin

im going to be running a 1uz so i don't think i could fit the exhaust on the drivers side, it looks like i would have to go under the transfer case (i have a 2" body lift). i don't think i would want to run the exhaust that low unless i cover it with my belly pan. but the reason to get this clocking ring is to have a flat belly so that would be dumb. or maybe the exhaust wont stick down that far.

Works great. Auto trans.

is that 1/8" :eek:

Here is how I moved my sticks. Kinda hard to tell but I used 3/4" strap to bring them back to center.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/dstrbd1/Crawlboxcover014.jpg

Ok I've got a strange question for those of you tearing into your floors right now. Would you mind measuring from the floor to the top of the tranny tunnel both at the trans shift and two at the T-case.

I have a theory on why Tacoma's late model 4Runners seem to be able to get a flat bellypan far easier than those of us with early model trucks and runners.

Part of it is that the frames on the later rigs is thicker/taller by an inch or so.

Ok I've got a strange question for those of you tearing into your floors right now. Would you mind measuring from the floor to the top of the tranny tunnel both at the trans shift and two at the T-case.

I have a theory on why Tacoma's late model 4Runners seem to be able to get a flat bellypan far easier than those of us with early model trucks and runners.

whats the theory? whatever it is, i think youre right. my taco builds are ending up with the same belly clearance, do to the cab floor shape, as previously required a 2'' bodylift on older trucks(85-95)

Part of it is that the frames on the later rigs is thicker/taller by an inch or so.

there you go

Theory goes:

1st and 2nd and 3rd gen trucks have a shallow tranny tunnel with not so tall a frame,

the shallow tunnel makes clocking t-case easier because the floor board is higher up, which is why the tunnel is smaller

Taco's is the opposite, they got a taller tunnel, so to clock your t-case you have to cut into it. But since the tunnel is taller to begin with Toyota mounted the tranny and t-case high from the factory. Add in the taller frame rails and you get flat belly pan way easier. Its kind of like the floor board is lower and tunnel is the same.

(Not really sure Im making to much sense right now)

Off course this throws off the CG measurment of top bolt of bell housing (not by much but...) it also would mean that any measurments from frame to ground on an early truck to a taco would not be as comparible as perviously thought.

Update: Mine has been leaking like a sieve for the past couple weeks. I think the combination of the clocked t-case and new x-member might've shaken the seal loose and or destroyed it. Either way there is 90wt dripping out of the t-case joints...

BTW, it's an SKS/CR Seal part #14572 dimensions are 37x58x13mm