I have a HP 60 that I was going to narrow for use in my pile. I planned to just buck it down to basically stock width (61"). I plan to run coils, and keep them in the stock location. However, looking at the 60, the inner knuckles appear to take up far more space than on a 30 or 44. I don't have outers, or hubs at this point, or I'd have figured this out myself already...

If I narrow the 60 to 61", will the inner knuckles interfer with the coil placement? If so, how narrow can a guy go without issues? I'd settle for 63" or so if it was needed.

Mine is narrowed 4" on the long side, from a stock 69". I have room to go an inch maybe two on each side narrower. I used ballistic fab mounts for my links/coils and shocks.

I personally have always been a fan of wider axles with more backspacing to keep it narrow. Keeps your scrub radius low.

I have a HP 60 that I was going to narrow for use in my pile. I planned to just buck it down to basically stock width (61"). I plan to run coils, and keep them in the stock location. However, looking at the 60, the inner knuckles appear to take up far more space than on a 30 or 44. I don't have outers, or hubs at this point, or I'd have figured this out myself already...

If I narrow the 60 to 61", will the inner knuckles interfer with the coil placement? If so, how narrow can a guy go without issues? I'd settle for 63" or so if it was needed.

Time to go w/ coilovers! :D
Billy

I have narrowed several of these for Jeep Application and tend to stick aroune the 64" to 65" WMS Width. That would mean cutting the long side down 4" or 5". You might want to find out what length Long side shaft is available so if you ever need a replacement it is a stocked item rather than a custom cut every time.

Alright, well, I guess I'll be shooting for a 64" front and rear then. Axle shaft availability doesn't worry me too much.

Pity I cut up my 63" rear D60.

Coilovers will certainly make it easier - I just finished a 61.75" wms 609 that required the coilover lower mounts out on the end forgings as far as I could push them (so they didn't interfere with the knuckle pivoting,) in order to achieve the five degrees of inward lean.

I would think with full coil buckets you could still hit your desired wms but the narrower you go the higher the spring seat will need to be. This will in turn push up your ride height or decrease the amount of articulation (compression and rebound,) due to the shorter springs.

With the ride height I'm shooting for, it's not an option to mount the coil any higher than stock.

It probably won't hurt to go to 64". I can always run a hair more backspacing. As long as the hubs don't stick out far enough to be fodder.

Im 64" and could not go much narrower.

I have a 90 kingpin ford dana 60 with the real short driver side. I am going to cut down the long side about 2 inches to make it 67 and use a shaft from the 78 - 79 ford hp 60 long side.

Mine is narrowed 4" on the long side, from a stock 69". I have room to go an inch maybe two on each side narrower. I used ballistic fab mounts for my links/coils and shocks.

I personally have always been a fan of wider axles with more backspacing to keep it narrow. Keeps your scrub radius low.

I want to cut my 60 down 4" on the long side. Is there a stock shaft that can be used or did you get a custom cut shaft? I'm using an 88 ford 60. Is that what u started with also?

As long as the hubs don't stick out far enough to be fodder.

You don't have to worry about hitting the hubs and breaking them , they will break on their own.. flanges are narrower and stronger.

My next front Ill build to 65in vs 69in Ill also step down from 42s to 40in tires.
Id get the diff as far to the side as I can for better ground clearance.

You can do it other ways too. I am running full width (69") with H2 wheels. That puts me about 79" to the outside of the tires. About 3" wider than my dana 30 set up was. Or you could go with H1 wheels which would make it really narrow. Just another idea for you.

You don't have to worry about hitting the hubs and breaking them , they will break on their own.. flanges are narrower and stronger.

My next front Ill build to 65in vs 69in Ill also step down from 42s to 40in tires.
Id get the diff as far to the side as I can for better ground clearance.


Well, it's all a toss-up. This won't be a hard-core crawler. It'll be full body, or at least mostly, and it will be street driven. I know, this is a rock crawling forum, and I am building an expo vehicle. However, I think a lot of the tech is transferrable... I digress.

I'd rather run flanges and pull them. I hate hubs, they suck regardless. Dynatrac makes what appears to be a nice low-profile unit. But, for the money a guy can live with pulling flanges. Or even just letting the front be on the highway - it's not like it's any different than stock unitized hubs.

Anyways, its been a while since I made this thread... I'm going to think about the scrub radius a bit before I do anything too rash.

To be the width I want with a 69" axle, I'd need to run 7" of BS on a 8" wide rim.

[QUOTE=DirtyComanche;8814242]With the ride height I'm shooting for, it's not an option to mount the coil any higher than stock.

QUOTE]

What about a shorter coil with the same spring rate?

What about a shorter coil with the same spring rate?


I guess a guy could do that, but you're still probably going to gain little clearance with the inner C unless you went with a considerably shorter coil (3" or so). Also, I'd be afraid of losing coil on droop. My reasoning might not be entirely correct there.


Although, honestly, it's not like I'm limited by the placement of the upper coil buckets. Within reason.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/dirtycomanche/P1010202.jpg

That peice I cut off went in the garbage.

making progress on the XJ again? or still planning it, and looking for 'free time' on ebay? (this is Opie from Crawlin BC)

Bah. I spend too much time at work to ever make progress on the fucking thing. This thread just got bumped back to the top so I figured I'd reply.