I was doing some searching, digging through a few of my own threads, and came upon a link I never saw someone posted...

http://www.xjworld.4wdriver.com/steering.htm

I think I want to replicate this steering setup... I came to the realization that full width axles are not something that will be close in the near future... and an unnecessary amount of overkill in my application

The Dodge ends used are quite beefy, I have looked at them at work, and I am satisfied with their beef/bacon :flipoff2:

My question however... is it possible to use a johnny joint over a Heim in this application? I hate heims, the one on my RE1600 is already toast... I am going to be replacing it with the new Johnny that Currie has released. Since I have to order directly from them, I figure why not save a weebit on shipping...

I also want to place bends in the tie rods for clearance? Good or bad idea?
I found pics that I am using for reference... I just don't want to get killed or do some booty fab shit

I will be keeping this Under the knuckle... for now it's not justified @ 4" of lift

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/JK_Motorsports/DSCN6235.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/JK_Motorsports/DSCN6236.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h251/JK_Motorsports/DSCN6237.jpg

Where the heim connects to the tie rod off the drag link, that is where I want to use a Johnny...

I want this because:
It can be rebuilt
It can be greased
It seems to be a stronger joint from general consensus?

I won't be doing hydro assist, I just want to replicate the bends in this steering setup for bracket clearances..

#1 question
Does this look safe?

the only thing i would look out for is how wide the joint is. that is a lot of shearing pressure on the bolt you use. now maybe if you made a double shear arm. but now you got to think about how high you are going in to the tire.

just my thoughts

This will definitely be mounted in double shear, I don't trust my welds THAT much. Double shear and probably boxed, the risk is too high

Theres going to be a pretty big dead spot in the steering with thoes bends. When turning from one direction to the other, the tierod will have to roll over first, then once it runs out of flex, it will start steering the wheels. I had something similar years ago and it sucked. Even with the bends, the operating angles of the steering wasnt very good so it would eat through ends. I gave up and went to a wheel to wheel tie rod with no bends, and a seperate drag link (Dana 44 Hi Steer) and never looked back. The steering is 100% more responsive and I have had ZERO issues in 3 years.

If I still had the Dana 30, I would drop the coin and get the Currie HD steering setup. Its 100% bolt on, so simple easy that a monkey could do it, and its BEEF. Its not worth trying to reinvent the wheel when the products are out there to do it right.

AARON

so... where is the upgrade here?

you're keeping it under the knuckle, loosing clearance, going to a crappier style steering with a dead spot, and question your welds...

the only reason to go to an 'invirted t' style setup is because the d30 knuckle only has 1 steering arm hole... and because you want to go over the knuckle...

I'd like a heim better than a JJ in steering - the JJ uses rubber bushings (a very hard rubber, but still has some 'give') where a heim that isnt worn out, is a SOLID mount with very little 'give' in it...

also - while the JJ is re-buildable, it isnt tightenable like an RE joint is...

I have an JJ on my trackbar, and will elminate it the next time I re-do my front suspension...

also - while the JJ is re-buildable, it isnt tightenable like an RE joint is...

I have an JJ on my trackbar, and will elminate it the next time I re-do my front suspension...

Interesting... you are the first to state this from what I have seen. Are you going to be switch it to a Heim? I also didn't know RE superflex joints could be tightened.... interesting.

As far as the upgrade, I bent my stock steering and it has 125k on it :shaking:
I could replace with stock, I could go with Currie. I was trying to eliminate roll with this set-up; which isn't the case since mrshoeboy posted....

Just can't fn' win, I like the currie setup, but want to use off the shelf parts...:mad3:

This D30 is hindering me but it won't die haah

*edit
As far as questioning my welds, the only reason I do is because I am young, only got into welding within the last year... I am not certified therefore I'd rather be overly cautious rather then a cocky prick.

I can lay a decent bead, I have only learned on .035 fluxcore so I am learning to work with what I have.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v384/joe_and_jeep/cherokee/100_0222.jpg

at least I think they look better than that...
And I know better then to fuck around welding onto Cast

If you're ok with staying under the knuckle,

drill out the knuckles for 5/8" bolts, run the tie rod under, and the drag link over...

If you want something better than that - put the tie rod over, and go invirted T with heims...

my heims used to last about 20k miles daily driving... but I bought the chromo 7/8" shank, 3/4" bore aurora ultra high strength heims...

the heim on your trackbar was doomed to fail because of the way its used... upgrade to a real RE trackbar with the HD mount and an RE joint, mounted the right direction, and it'll be fine...

or just do what everyone does - the parts mike steering -
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=204&rn=1332&action=show_detail
if you hate the heims that much... ream the knuckles from the top, bolt this stuff on, call it a day...

the only 'real' problem with using a JJ like you're talking about - is that a JJ has a 2" mounting width - which means that your tabs would have to have 2" in between them, and mount to your tie rod...

If you're ok with staying under the knuckle,

drill out the knuckles for 5/8" bolts, run the tie rod under, and the drag link over....

if I was going to run heims and needed to drill the knuckles anyway, I would just run OTK, as it is the proper way to do it.

Question for you though, how is the position of the heim on the re1600 bad when the heim would be mounted in a similar position on the knuckle after it was drilled out? If I could keep them alive I'd run em... it's the fact that I can't haha. I wish they could be greased or something. I am running an aurora in the 1600 right now... hopefully it lasts a bit longer?

youll want a metal bearing for yoru tierod and drag link.
poly bushings or JJs with cushin will not be good in your steering and would not be safe.

Do Heim or 1ton tierod ends.

I run 7/8in 1ton tierod ends, you can ream out your knuckles to a larger hole and then the larger 1ton rod ends. If you have stock knuckles on a d30 you might need wheel spacer so your rim does not hit the larger tierod. Ive only broke one so far

;8816133']if I was going to run heims and needed to drill the knuckles anyway, I would just run OTK, as it is the proper way to do it.

Question for you though, how is the position of the heim on the re1600 bad when the heim would be mounted in a similar position on the knuckle after it was drilled out? If I could keep them alive I'd run em... it's the fact that I can't haha. I wish they could be greased or something. I am running an aurora in the 1600 right now... hopefully it lasts a bit longer?

The track bar gets different forces than the steering does. When your tire slams a rock, the knuckles turn, absorbing a lot of the force. The job of your track bar is to minimize side-to-side movement, no give in the system. If you can weld, add a double shear point to your mount and watch how much longer your heims last.

I hate my steering, which uses the Parts Mike TRE's. It flops over when you steer, which adds a lot of slop to the system. Hydro assist helped, but it still isnt ideal. I would try to find a ZJ knuckle and do crossover....TRE's or hiems, they both have their advantages and drawbacks..,

The track bar gets different forces than the steering does. When your tire slams a rock, the knuckles turn, absorbing a lot of the force. The job of your track bar is to minimize side-to-side movement, no give in the system. If you can weld, add a double shear point to your mount and watch how much longer your heims last.

I hate my steering, which uses the Parts Mike TRE's. It flops over when you steer, which adds a lot of slop to the system. Hydro assist helped, but it still isnt ideal. I would try to find a ZJ knuckle and do crossover....TRE's or hiems, they both have their advantages and drawbacks..,

I have read a lot of people don't like the 1ton stuff... I do plan on building a better track bar mount, perhaps I will stick with the Heim then? Perhaps it's worth a second shot?

so... where is the upgrade here?

you're keeping it under the knuckle, loosing clearance, going to a crappier style steering with a dead spot, and question your welds...

the only reason to go to an 'invirted t' style setup is because the d30 knuckle only has 1 steering arm hole... and because you want to go over the knuckle...

I'd like a heim better than a JJ in steering - the JJ uses rubber bushings (a very hard rubber, but still has some 'give') where a heim that isnt worn out, is a SOLID mount with very little 'give' in it...

also - while the JJ is re-buildable, it isnt tightenable like an RE joint is...

I have an JJ on my trackbar, and will elminate it the next time I re-do my front suspension...

Not that I'd use a JJ on steering junk, but for the record, you can tighten a worn Currie JJ. Although they last so long it's unlikely you'll ever need to.

Paul

Not that I'd use a JJ on steering junk, but for the record, you can tighten a worn Currie JJ. Although they last so long it's unlikely you'll ever need to.

Paul

How? would you have to use another washer for pre-load?

I was merely referring to how the RE joints have the threaded cap, that is easy to tighten as the liners wear, where the JJ just has a snap ring, though I could see where another washer could be stacked in there to preload the bushings together...