The jeep is pass drop, and the cv joint on the front driveshaft hits the pan of the 727.

whats my options if any are available that dont include getting a driver side drop d60

Will a clocking ring do and which companies sell those? rotate up or down?
Grinding a little off the pan? how much can be chopped off?

SoA for the suspension

easiest option is getting a 904/999 but lots of lift and/or a two piece driveshaft will work too. I swapped out my 727 for a th400.:smokin:

Ok lets assume i want to keep my 727 because its in really good shape and i have 2 d300 in my garage... what then

Keep the 727, its good to about 600 HP in almost stock configuration, ask any old hemi guy...the tail shafts housings are the same for the 999 and 727 and the spline count is the same for the jeep autos. You can flip the Dana 300, twin stick it, you will need the adapter ring and a pair of twin sticks from D&D, I am going to do the same swap this winter. It keeps the drivers drop and gives you a longer rear shaft. I am not sure if the twinstics will fit in the original hole but I will find out later. Tim

I have this set up in my '94 YJ and I just offset the trans/D300 to the drivers side so that the d-shaft goes away from the trans pan to the front diff. I also would run a single u-joint instead of a cv. You will ahve more space and run a reasonable small diameter tube. I have a 5" suspension lift spring under axle with Waggy Dana 44's front and rear with a 5.9 Liter 360/TF727/Dana300 combo.

Sean

Ok my diff is passenger side so i cant flip it. If I have to go driver side drop ill simply sell the d300 's I have and get a np208 but for now im wondering if d300-tf727 fits in a SoA YJ.


How do you off set the tranny and tcase? you pulled everything and the engine to the driver side a little?

The problem with a single joint is that the angle on a S0A is very stee and i get vibration, thats what i have right now.

Wich is why I want to go with a CV. If I get a clocking ring and move it upwords will that help clear the pan on the 727?

I ran a 727/D300 in my CJ for a while, both 4" SUA and SOA. I notched the pan (basically took the kickout part and made it flat). I worked well, but I wanted a flat belly, so I swapped to a TF999 and used a clocking ring to get the tcase up out of the way.

You dont happen to have a picture of the notched part by any chance do you? I wanna see how much you took off.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324836&highlight=727+300

Why are you running a front cv shaft on a YJ? Seems like you should have plenty of length for a standard shaft.

well im getting vibration and im sure its not from the back. Only thing left is from the front.

What motor are you running?

I am running an amc 401, 727, dana 300 combo in my 91 Wrangler. I have a J20 dana 44 passanger drop. I have stock springs with a spring over axle setup. I don't have any issues with drive shaft. Its close but does not hit anything. Tom Woods set me up with a smaller diameter front drive shaft no cv. I think your problem is the cv. Buy lock out hubs so the shaft isn't spinning all the time. Mine has a little vibration but not bad and of course only in 4wd.

How did the trans swap work for you? I'm asking cause I have a 727/d300 that I'm wanting to put behind the 4.0 (fuel injected) Do you have any info on if I need the computer from the doner vehicle? How about kickdown cable, flywheel, etc?

well im getting vibration and im sure its not from the back. Only thing left is from the front.

What passenger diff do you have that doesn't have lockouts to disconnect at speeds that you'd get vibrations at?

The front driveshaft shouldn't be turning at road/highway speeds.