Just got everything back together, connected the battery and all the lights are flashing.
Is there a reset button somewhere.
Is there an "alarm issue"?

Also, what is the recomended break in time/rpm - stock long block.
thnx.

Yes it's an alarm issue. There really isn't a reset button. If you still have the keyfobs unlock it with the keyfob, if not then unlock it with the key in the driver's door.
whodat

craig,

who built it?

if you trust them, just crank it throug with plugs out until you get oil to the top of the motor.

if you don't trust the work, crank it through a few times then drain the oil into something clean enough to reuse and make sure there are no metal filings. If so, toss the oil. If no metal filings, put it back in and then start it.

try not to shut it off first start for a few mins. If its a new cam they supposedly need some time to break in.

then, just be easy on it for 500 miles. don't push it or drive the same RPM for an extended amount of time. After 500 miles, do an oil and filter change to get the startup lube out of there.

I wouldn't use synth oil for a while.

-- or --

run it like its race day after a bout a 1 hour breakin. Again this depends on who built it. what did the shop tell you?

thanx guys,
I'll report back tomorrow, need a new battery and timing light.
The key in the door reset the alarm fine.

Pre-lube it with plugs out or spin the pil pump with a large flat screwdriver end after pulling the distributor.
When it fires keep it ABOVE 2000 RPM (some say 2500) for a good 20 minutes to break in the cam.
Best is to gently rev it to 3000 and bring it back down to 2000 a little more quickly to cool and quench the new cylinders
Repeat running it through this cycle and have someone check the coolant and oil pressure through out this first fire.
Next, it's best to take it for an easy drive during the coolest part of the day or evening... repeating close to the same procedure of gently accelerating then letting off to cool and quench.
And take it easy on it for a while.
There's a lot of friction and fitting going on in there so treat it like a baby for a while and make sure it's fully warmed up before you go putting your foot in it ... keep an eye on the temp gauge to avoid over heating.
Dump and change the oil filter after the first few hundred miles.
I like the drain plugs with a big magnet on them.
If you've done a good job there should be just a thin,fine grey fuzz stuck to it and maybe just a very thin sliver or two of bearing material scraped off during assembly.

Fawk that 500 mile break in bullshit. 10 minutes to break in the cam and pistons.... Thats it. Don't let the RPM sit steady for that first ten minutes. Keep raising and lowering it. Not up to the limiter but bring it up and let it drop.

Break it in like your gonna drive it.

My old man raced NHRA for several years and has emplored this idea to me. It has never let me down.

But then again I either do or have my family do all the work on my engines.

I have to agree with Jaffer, take it easy on it I have rebuilt a few daily driver type motors and a few race motors in my young life and they are definitly different beasts, for a race motor which is usually a roller motor the breakin takes place on in the burnout box, bot for a street engine do the 20-30 minute without shutting it off unless something really bad happens (no oil pressure lots of overheating, cool it with a hose if you need to) keep it between 2000-3000 RPM then shut it down ckeck for leaks change the oil and filter to get the moly and cam lube out drive it easy for the next 100 miles change the oil again, then over the next 400 miles start to get on it a little harder. at 500 miles change the oil and consider it broke in. go to 3000 mile oil changes and keep an eye on things just like any other vehicle. It is normal for it to smoke a bit as the rings seat so don't get too worried. Good luck!

Originally posted by 500 HORS
thanx guys,
I'll report back tomorrow,

and...?