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Mechanos
10-07-2008, 09:53 PM
What are the options out there for a case spreader? So far, I've found Randy's R&P, Quad4x4 and one on ebay. Certainly there has to be more sources out there.

foley
10-07-2008, 10:08 PM
I built mine... 36" of acme rod, 4 acme nuts, 36" of 1" x 3" flat bar, and two short pieces of 7/8" dowel.

speedo
10-07-2008, 11:35 PM
Mine is an OTC.

Gus

jeep937
10-08-2008, 12:14 AM
Who else uses a case spreader?

mondtster
10-08-2008, 04:49 PM
Make one. You should be able to do it within a few hours or less depending on how fancy you want to get with it.

dopeassjackson
10-08-2008, 05:03 PM
i think there was a thread about a guy who made one a couple of months to a year ago.

OklahomaK5
10-09-2008, 01:29 PM
I built mine... 36" of acme rod, 4 acme nuts, 36" of 1" x 3" flat bar, and two short pieces of 7/8" dowel.

Similar, but I used all thread ?3/4"? and some wheel studs instead of 7/8 dowel. I was supprised it worked. I don't think the all thread would hold up for repeated use but it worked once.

This was after I payed a shop a couple of hundred dollars to install a detroit in a D60, which they did using their case spreader. A hammer on the outside of the bearing races.

Mechanos
10-09-2008, 02:55 PM
There's a difference between getting the job done and doing it right IMO. With most types of carriers, I agree that it can be assembled without using a spreader by beating the carrier in with a soft-faced mallet. I'm putting an ARB in my D60, and since the shims are outboard of the bearings it is very difficult to get the ARB carrier installed with the proper preload without using a spreader. Everything I've read tells me that ARB's are extremely particular about having proper preload. I will probably end up just making a spreader, I just thought I'd "look around" to see if there an affordable one on the market. $350 is a bit rediculous IMO for what it is and what it's made out of. I'm going to have to buy all the steel (I'm opting for cold rolled) so I'll probably end up at around $75 with the steel and the hardware.

Mechanos
10-09-2008, 11:10 PM
Picked up the steel after work tonight and got started. Cut all the pieces to length and drilled all the holes except the two for the dowel pins. I just need to figure out how I'm going to drill an accurate 7/8" hole for the dowels. I have the means to dill holes up to 3/4", so I guess I could just use 3/4" dowels and let them be a little sloppy in the case holes. Would probably work fine, but I'd like to make them 7/8" if I can figure out how to do it without spending a small fortune on a bit.

I just have a little welding to do and it will be done except for the holes for the dowels.

J Kimmel
10-10-2008, 06:40 AM
There's a difference between getting the job done and doing it right IMO. With most types of carriers, I agree that it can be assembled without using a spreader by beating the carrier in with a soft-faced mallet. I'm putting an ARB in my D60, and since the shims are outboard of the bearings it is very difficult to get the ARB carrier installed with the proper preload without using a spreader. Everything I've read tells me that ARB's are extremely particular about having proper preload. I will probably end up just making a spreader, I just thought I'd "look around" to see if there an affordable one on the market. $350 is a bit rediculous IMO for what it is and what it's made out of. I'm going to have to buy all the steel (I'm opting for cold rolled) so I'll probably end up at around $75 with the steel and the hardware.

x2 I found setting up the arb in my 60 was far easier with a spreader, and I bought mine from Randys, and when it arrived, I was like, "thats all it is?"

so ya, they are really useful in setting up diffs, but ya, I would build one :)

Mechanos
10-10-2008, 08:41 AM
Checked the HF website and they have a 2-piece step drill bit set for $16 that has a 7/8" bit in it. I'm thinking I'll just drill the dowel holes out to 1/2" or so and then use the step bit to open the holes on up to 7/8". I've been quite impressed with my other set of HF step bits.

mj
10-10-2008, 09:44 PM
hole saw?

Mechanos
10-10-2008, 10:01 PM
hole saw?

From my previous experience with hole saws, I doubt that I'd get anything even closely resembling a hole that would be a press fit with the 7/8" CRS I have for the dowels. I did stop by HF on my way home tonight and picked up another set of step bits, one of which is a 7/8" max. size bit. I'll be giving it a try tomorrow to see how it does on 3/4" CRF stock. I'll start out with a small pilot hole, enlarge that to 1/2" with a twist bit (will give me a change to try out my high dollar Lawson bits), then enlarge that hole to 7/8" with the step bit.

Murph
10-11-2008, 05:57 AM
Might be a bit late now, but do you know anyone with a lathe or mill that can turn down the ends of the dowels to 3/4?


Andy

Tech Tim
10-11-2008, 07:38 AM
With most types of carriers, I agree that it can be assembled without using a spreader by beating the carrier in with a soft-faced mallet.

Only if you know what you are doing and check preload afterward.


Everything I've read tells me that ARB's are extremely particular about having proper preload.

No more than any other diff.

Do a crappy set-up with an ARB and you'll see problems sooner than other diffs with a crappy set-up. BUT with those other diffs, it's still a crappy set-up and you will eventually have issues.

Do it right, no matter what diff you are setting up. :D

onetontoy
10-11-2008, 10:35 AM
Note to self..... take motorcycle strap and hook on frame n spreader when doing a diff on the rack. Hurt like hell when my fell on my foot. But then again tryin to answer the phone and take it loose with greasy hands didn't help any..:shaking:

Mechanos
10-11-2008, 10:09 PM
Finshed it up this afternoon. My guess was pretty close... I have ~$70 and about 4.5 hours invested in it. Fawker is pretty damn heavy and stout as hell. The bars with the dowels are 3/4 x 2 cold rolled and the other bars are 2 each 3/8 x 2 cold rolled.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=396176&stc=1&d=1223783647

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=396177&stc=1&d=1223783647

The pressure screw is a 5/8" N.F. grade 8 bolt and nut and I used 1/2" clevis pins to hinge it all together. It ought to get the job done.

I've been thinking about regearing my CTD sometime in the future and wanted to make the spreader frame beefy enough to handle D70 and D80 cases as well. I didn't measure my D70, but does it (and the D80) share the same 12.5" dowel hole to dowel hole measurement as the D44 and D60?

Azzy2000
10-11-2008, 11:03 PM
I didn't measure my D70, but does it (and the D80) share the same 12.5" dowel hole to dowel hole measurement as the D44 and D60?

My 70B in my Jeep measures about 12.5". I'll check the 80 in my CTD tomorrow.

ChiScouter
11-10-2009, 10:08 PM
Have you used it yet? and if you did would you change anything? Do you think it would flex too much if I used 1/4" plate by maybe 3" wide?

71PA_Highboy
11-11-2009, 06:16 AM
I used 1" x 3 1080 CR for the main bars and 1/4 x 3" HR for the crosses.

I then welded some 1" flat bar as reinforcements and to prevent flex and I get zero deflection.

I also used 1" coarse all thread and wish I had used fine...

OP - Nice work. I have about $70 in materials for mine, and a bit more for machining the pins so I think you did a great job for what you have into it.