Ok, fawk this... yet another D30 wheel bearing is gonzo and I piss!
I am at a cross road... and I am going to get flamed huge for this... but here is my arguments:

I can convert the D30 to run lock outs and serviceable wheel bearings... I will not be using the warn kit... I will be doing this method:

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=67134

Option 1:

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/madibugsmom/99%20tj/hp30002.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/madibugsmom/99%20tj/hp30005.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y223/madibugsmom/99%20tj/hp30009.jpg

Pros:
-D44 Ball Joints
-Larger brakes
-lock outs
-serviceable bearings
-Have a better drive line fuse (hubs)
-I don't have to fabricate a truss because the upper control arm mount is cast into the pumpkin
-Same pumpkin clearance
-Remains HP

Cons:
-Change in bolt pattern, requiring new rims, I want to toss an 8.8 in the rear so getting shafts made for 5x5.5 (I want to use ford outer's) seems like the best option to save the cost of running spacers... By not running spacers in the front, I remain somewhat stock width.

Option 2:
I have found a passenger drop LP44 out of a Waggy with lockouts, converted from flanges/drive slugs for $100 but it has been Welded

Pros:
-I'll get everything in one package and just flip the pumpkin to drivers drop which isn't THAT hard in my opinion after looking at the above link and extensive searching.
-30 spline shafts over my stock 27 spline

Cons:
-Loss of clearance over the D30
-I will have to fabricate a complete truss (I was just thinking about saving time but it might be cool to add some BLIIIIING)
-No strength gains @ the R&P
-No additional strength from axle u-joints

In the end, it's going to take the same amount of welding cutting and grinding to get to the same outcome. It's not a fawking D60 and it's not justified and I would like to contribute something back to the board after all my rambling bullshit posts that so many of you love...

I want to regear everything to 4.56 so I want to tinker with something and leave my DD intact until it's 100% ready. This is a 33-35" tire size range in the end... larger isn't better for what I have to wheel here.

In an ideal world I'd love a HP44 out of a Ford and have it narrowed to waggy width and basically do the same thing as the hybrid 30 link I posted above but I am having no such luck finding one and I doubt my friend is going to pull through by Christmas... with my stroke of luck.

I <3 you guys in a none-homosectional way :flipoff2:

Psst.

http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

or you could spend $90 on a new unit bearing, keep the clearance under the pumpkin, keep money in your wallet, keep your jeep on the roads and trails, get some seat time, keep the 10 minute axle shaft change of a d30, and go wheel...
http://www.rockauto.com/

Did you keep the hub nut tight on the d30 bearing? the torque on that nut is super critical because it sets the bearing pre-load...

I will tell you that I regret putting my HP44 in... and were I to do it again, id polish the 30 ALL THE WAY out, then switch to a 60 if I thought it needed more later...

but I'm not gonna tell you what to do...

Well, either way you wanna look at it I think your polishing turds. However, Its awsome that youve put that much thought into unlike most. If I were you Id just slap in another bearing and deal with it until you can hit the route you really want. All your options seem like a ton of work only to get you somewhat satisfied. I like option 2 the best personally. Granted thats the most work, it'll prolly give you the best results. I dont think you'll find ground clearance being that big of an issue. Plus Truss' are fun to build:smokin:

Psst.

http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

Vette: I know those exist but put a significant mount of damage in my budget :P
Then I still have the weaker style ball joints. I would love to pimp those though, not going to lie.

I know I probably wouldn't save that much... especially if I have a factory set sent out for machine work...I am still weighing my options.

Ranger: Yea I am super anal about the 175ft lbs torque spec, I learned that lesson after the first one (now on number 3 in two years)

I will tell you that I regret putting my HP44 in... and were I to do it again, id polish the 30 ALL THE WAY out, then switch to a 60 if I thought it needed more later...
- I keep reading this same message, and this is why I posted up, the 30 isn't as bad as most make it out to be, granted I wouldn't run it with 37's or larger I have seen enough people wheel them on 35's locked in stock TJ configurations more or less.

Ideally I want to create a better driveline fuse, and the added strength of option one seems promising... like I said I am I am going to sit around and wonder about the Reid knuckles for a bit...

I am not scared to wrench, I am a sucker for it... and I love a challenge. The nice thing about doing the turdy polishing, I can set my caster and pinion as well after I reattach the knuckles.

Just for your info, the white box shit bearings we stock at work, I can get it for $130, the premium with my huge club discount setup knocks it down to $146 (from $230) - which is what I run

edit:
I still prefer the built not bought mentality, fawk bolt on shit

;8835814']

edit:
I still prefer the built not bought mentality, fawk bolt on shit

I hate it when someone puts in the R+D time for me, and comes out with a good product that works REALLY well, and gives it to me at a price just a little bit more than making it myself would cost... :flipoff2:

and I have done my share of fab work...

If I could buy a well thought out, good working front Airshock kit for my XJ, instead of fabbing all the upper mounts like I'm fighting with right now - id buy it in a heart beat...

making your own shit is cool, but not having down time, and being ready to wheel after only 1 weekend of work is cooler... :D

(In my opinion... :D)

Look down the road and decide how big you want to go now, it will save you money in the long run. I only broke my dana 30 even on 35's when I was being stupid. I broke my dana 44 in the exact same ways as the 30, exceptfor the hubs and the locker, it was not much of an upgrade for me personally. I didnt think the money for 44 shafts was the way to go so I sold it and went 60. Throw a wheel bearing in it and go wheel!!!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1180369,parttype,1636

Timken units for $92 ea. If you had a newer XJ or were running WJ knuckles like myself, then the 00-01 hub bearings are only like $75 ea for Timkens.

I don't mind em. Granted I've only been on 31s (just got 33s and 4.88s).

i've had a waggy 44 sitting on a pair of jackstands for a year now... thinking I'll install it when my d30 dies....

Can't make it kill over...I 'm at teh point you are at now... it needs a wheel bearing...

I've found it better to just slap a new bearing in it and call it good for now until i get all the brackets done on the 44



also you cn get bearings from the U-pull-it for very cheap to keep one as a spare.

go to an auto parts store and buy one with a lifetime warranty. just keep getting new ones for free!! its not like changing them is hard.

Check out Billavista's article.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Hybrid_Axle/HybridAxle.htm

Another option I've looked at but haven't tried (I believe it would work but not sure). Take the old ford 5 bolt dana 44 spindles and have them machined to fit the 3 bolt pattern of the 30 outer. You'll need to have the rotor diameter machined down to fit the calipers but it appears to be what I've seen done on some other conversions.

go to an auto parts store and buy one with a lifetime warranty. just keep getting new ones for free!! its not like changing them is hard.

Damn ya bumped an old thread :laughing:
I don't have that option in Canada unfortunately

Check out Billavista's article.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Hybrid_Axle/HybridAxle.htm

Another option I've looked at but haven't tried (I believe it would work but not sure). Take the old ford 5 bolt dana 44 spindles and have them machined to fit the 3 bolt pattern of the 30 outer. You'll need to have the rotor diameter machined down to fit the calipers but it appears to be what I've seen done on some other conversions.

I've seen Billa's article, but don't want the custom shaft... never heard of the ford method though?

I've put in a wheel bearing since, however I've egged the yoke ears on my passenger side shaft now. GRRRR :laughing:

I have a replacement shaft in the garage to pull out of my donor D30 that I scored for almost free so at least it was a cheaper fix this time.

toss that 30 in the river and get a real axle :flipoff2:






nah 30's are ok. you must be running wide wheels or big tires?

[QUOTE='[Memphis];9443705']Damn ya bumped an old thread :laughing:
I don't have that option in Canada unfortunately



I've seen Billa's article, but don't want the custom shaft... never heard of the ford method though?QUOTE]

Not saying it's guaranteed to work, but it's something I was starting to look into before I ditched the 30 and built a 44. I still may try it for the hell of it. I've got spare 30 knuckles, the ford spindles and a spare hub laying around.