Anyone thought about trying to sandwich a toy reduction section between a zf auto and a lt230 ala marlin etc?
Does anyone know what the spline count and diameter of the zf output is when you remove the spud shaft? I thought it was 23 spline but dunno the dia and dont want to disturb mine if someone already knows.
Whats the diameter of the toy input? there two different sizes but what years/vehicles did they come in?
Can someone with a stock RR with a zf and lt230 measure how much room there is between the rear of the handbrake drum and whatever its going to run into if its moved backwards.
With a little work this should be around the same price as maxidrive tcase gears and a lot more flexible and lower overall.
Any thoughts.....
Cheers
Daryl

Another option that would work is the Klune-V

They are some $$$$ but they have a ton of options for input and output.

Available with 21,23,27,31,32 and 6 spline input. Available with 21,23,27,28,31,32,6 spline male and 10 spline female output

i looked at trying to make the toy t. case work and decided it was going to be to much work. spline count and dia. are of not the same size. i also don't think that toy case is as strong lt 230. you will also need modifie the floor pan as their is not enough room to move the t. case back far enough.

drew

i looked at trying to make the toy t. case work and decided it was going to be to much work. spline count and dia. are of not the same size. i also don't think that toy case is as strong lt 230. you will also need modifie the floor pan as their is not enough room to move the t. case back far enough.

drew

. . . . not to mention being HUGE - I can't stand the way they hang down from the bottom of the rig

I called Klune V a few months back and they said the Rover is a market they would like to cater to later on, but the current unit wouldn't work. I was given no reason, but figured that they would be the ones that would know.

Way

To answer the question about the ZF LT230 distance, I don't have a measurement here at work, but it is the same as a ZF BW.

As for a crawler, the best design type is that of the Ashcroft crawler. Im not saying the Ashcroft is the best, but that style is, how it bolts into the back of the case.

-Jeff

Has any one on this list used the Ashcroft unit on your vehicle yet for a period of time. I am curious as to how strong the unit is. Sounds like the 4.3:1 gears in an LT230 are fairly strong. I am curious if one should be worried about the strength of that unit in comparison to the rest of the drivetrain. Is it one of the weak links?

Way

Does ECR sell the Ashcroft crawler? Also, is combining two LT230 cases or one BW and one LT case too impossible?

I think DiscountRovers.com is now selling ashcroft stuff. Would definately be cheaper than ECR.

Tom

Originally posted by Way
Has any one on this list used the Ashcroft unit on your vehicle yet for a period of time. I am curious as to how strong the unit is. I am curious if one should be worried about the strength of that unit in comparison to the rest of the drivetrain. Is it one of the weak links?

Way

I haven't wheeled with it yet, why don't you ask me again in Moab during the rally. It's built pretty heavy inside I can't imagine it would break before another drivetrain parts. It's basically a planetary system from an automatic tranny.

As far as combining 2 transfer boxes I'd say no because of the offset drive found in Rovers and Cruisers. I think the Ashcroft undrive is the best thing going right now, no major mods to the vehicle just put in a shift lever.

Sounds good Kyle. Keep us posted of any carnage or any difficulty engaging the unit.

On a side note, I finally got an LT230 from a friend in Denver for a good price. I am going to pick it up this weekend. I am pretty excited. I am going to wait to put it in for a while, but if I explode my Borg warner any time soon, at least I will have a replacement in the garage. I am still deciding if I want to put the maxi gears or the ashcroft underdrive on my wish list to save for. Or both :) Afterall the 4:11 diff gears are not very effective.

Way

When installing a 230 in place of a B/W a couple changes must be made. You'll need to get an output shaft from a ZF that was mated to a 230 as the B/W is different. We sourced one from an 88 RR transmission that was lying around. It's very easy to swap, just 1 bolt on the end. Also the front driveshaft needs to be shortened to about a 24" running length. The front output flange sat farther forward than the B/W it seems. This introduced another problem, the CV fouled on the crossmember since it sat further forward. Out came captain ESAB and the proper clearance was achieved. :D

Can someone please measure the distance from bodywork to tcase please.
The ashcroft unit looks pretty long, why cant I move the tcase back that far? will the park drum hit first?
Cheers
Daryl

the ashcroft box won't fit in a us spec r.rover with out floor pan mods. the box was really meant for defenders which has more room.

Drew

Originally posted by SeaRover
. . . . not to mention being HUGE - I can't stand the way they hang down from the bottom of the rig

He is talking about using the reduction case not the rear section of the case. The reduction case is seperate from the section that hangs down heaps.

When installing a 230 in place of a B/W a couple changes must be made. You'll need to get an output shaft from a ZF that was mated to a 230 as the B/W is different. We sourced one from an 88 RR transmission that was lying around. It's very easy to swap, just 1 bolt on the end. Also the front driveshaft needs to be shortened to about a 24" running length. The front output flange sat farther forward than the B/W it seems. This introduced another problem, the CV fouled on the crossmember since it sat further forward. Out came captain ESAB and the proper clearance was achieved.

Thanks for the "heads up".

Way

When installing a 230 in place of a B/W a couple changes must be made. You'll need to get an output shaft from a ZF that was mated to a 230 as the B/W is different. We sourced one from an 88 RR transmission that was lying around. It's very easy to swap, just 1 bolt on the end. Also the front driveshaft needs to be shortened to about a 24" running length. The front output flange sat farther forward than the B/W it seems. This introduced another problem, the CV fouled on the crossmember since it sat further forward. Out came captain ESAB and the proper clearance was achieved.

It was much easier for me In swapping from a BW to 230. The only thing I needed to do was to install a D1 front drive shaft and use the case mount from a 230. The spud shaft on the ZF worked just fine. No cutting or mods to the crossmember.
....FWIW

-Jeff

I know a guy that had a 203 reduction box in front of a 230, but his was backward in order to use it as an overdrive, I almost convinced him that I wanted to do the same set-up on mine, but ended up not because of so much weight. You may have heard of him his name is .......Timm Cooper:rolleyes:

Timm who...what is with all of the mystery stuff? LOL...:flipoff2:

Pffffft....Tim Cooper.....yea right, like that guy knows anything :flipoff2:



Cooper is the man!

http://www.bcboffroad.com/

the 203 box in backwards is that only and overdrive or can it still be used as an underdrive also?

Drew

It can be used as an underdrive. This then puts the LT230 further twards the rear of the truck, which for a long wheel base vehicle, isn't a problem.

On the subject of Timm, keep in mind anything is possible, Have you heard the one about a big block Caddy in a series truck...

-Jeff

For my feeble mind, can you elaborate on using the LT as an underdrive by mounting it backwards? :confused:

Ali,

To clarify, a Timm put a 203 in backwards mated to a LT230 for use as an overdrive. If it was put in conventionaly(not backwards), It would be a doubler. This is commonly done with a 203/205 combo.

Mounting a LT230 in backwards..... would nessitate drivers side offset diff's and would be so over dirven in low range that it wold only be usefull in a flat area such as Kansas:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

-Jeff

Drew,

You either get one or the other. Over or under, not both :(

Ron

(POed that I had to get the disco through inspection today rather than install axles)