Hey guy's...Gotta' get some custom break-lines. Specifically I need a Rover to Chevy caliper flex.

Adam? Sam? What did you do? Call Earl's and ask for a Rover to D60 break-line?

What's the thread/pitch and diameter of the Rover female/male end?

Thanks.

The extended lines I bought from EE seem to be 3/16. Here is the line fitted to a 3/16 line from NAPA.

http://pics.montypics.com/Old_Scout/2002-08-07/roverb_line.jpg

The early Rangie ones were sae and the later ones were metric .Looking at my spare flex one here for a Rangie ,its male at both ends .I always carried a spare clutch flex for my series as they are the same as the brake ones ,only 2 1/2" longer .Sorry I can't be more helpful .

I reccommend calling Joe at Industrial Liquidators. They are kind of slow (about a week or two). Phone number is (310)-644-0990. The SG-6 Rover brakelines that I had previously were 10mm x 1.0 concave. Not sure if yours are that model. If you need to find thread pitch call Earl's extendeed brake lines at (800)-421-2712. I made up a story to get the specs on mine. I said that the SG ones were not long enough and I needed a custom ones made for my application. They have all of the SG specs in their computer. I do not own a thread gauge so this was conveinent for me.

Are you going to a bango style fitting. They can make whatever you want there since every order is truly a custom order. However I strongly reccommend getting the unti attached to the line rather than having an adapter screwed on the end.

Hope this helps. Also at the caliper my D44 from Dynatrac had 7/16 x 20 thread pitch. There stuff is really nice by the way.

Adam Way

Thanks Adam...I'll give Earls a call right now...I'll letcha' all in on what I find out...(because you ALL know your gonna' be fitting real axles under your rigs eventually anyway...Right?...Be honest!).

--D

Okay...Called Earl's...They will only sell to distributors...However! Why don't I simply buy the break lines for a D60 caliper, find a male end and put that on my (cut and flaired) hard line.

Either that or call SG and have Grego' pull me a deal.

--D

Industrial liquidators sold to me. Did you try them, or just Earl's? The purpose of calling Earl's is to just get the thread pitch specs and NOT to place an order. Once you know exactly what you need, Industrial liquidators is a distributor of theirs.

If they won't sell to you, maybe I can place your order for you and have them drop ship it COD?

Way

Thanks mucho Adam...I think I might be taking you up on that...Unless I decide to put the breaks on with a single line to the middle of the diff...Then to a hard-line to the calipers...Then to two shorty flex lines into the calipers. Talked with T. Cooper in length about it, and it seems like a great idea. I'll measure excatly what I need (in length) and then make the decision. If they end up being 30+" long then I'll go that route...If they will be a "reasonable" length then I'll stick with the customs (order through you).

Off to the shop to mount the front coil-overs today (phew). Wish me luck...I've got VERY little clearance between the upper links and reversed high steer. It's gonna' be close!

--D

Jeeze Doug - what do you want brakes for, they will only slow you down. Man I thought you were hard core!! :flipoff2:

All I did was go down to the local brake and clutch place and tell them I need a flex line to fit a rover on one end and a scout d44 on the other. I think I even took the old line and the caliper and they made them up while i waited.

Shiat you must be getting close if you are talking brakes.

Another thing to think about is the piston diameter of your master cylinder. On mine the scout master cylinder was way bigger than the rover one so with the rover master cyl the pedal would almost be on the floor before the brakes locked up so I had to convert to to a scout one.

Sam

Originally posted by Strange Rover
All I did was go down to the local brake and clutch place and tell them I need a flex line to fit a rover on one end and a scout d44 on the other. I think I even took the old line and the caliper and they made them up while i waited.

Another thing to think about is the piston diameter of your master cylinder. On mine the scout master cylinder was way bigger than the rover one so with the rover master cyl the pedal would almost be on the floor before the brakes locked up so I had to convert to to a scout one.

Sam

OUTCH! NOW YOU TELL ME! Man I hope that's not the case. Did you have to pump twice to get there, or is it a simple voulme issue?

Yea, maby in OZ you can go to your local break place and have them build a line or two like that. Here NOBODY know's what a 10 x 1 Bull head adapter at a 37deg flare is...All they know about is the 3AN 24 thread at 45deg inverted flair...My head hurts.

Actually what I decided to do is cut my main hard line and put a standard fitting (AN) on it and run off the (US) shelf stuff. Won't be difficult to do...The hard part is finding all the bit's.

--D

Originally posted by RockRover


OUTCH! NOW YOU TELL ME! Man I hope that's not the case. Did you have to pump twice to get there, or is it a simple voulme issue?

--D

Just a volume thing - the small diameter rover piston didnt move as much fluid as the scout part. The pedal was very light and used up lots of travel. I could push the pedal to the floor and the brakes would come on reasonably hard. I drove it like this for about 4 months and it was only when a swaped to the series body that I converted it to a scout master cylinder.

Sam

Hmmmm. How bad was it fitting the new MS? I'm sure it wouldn't be overly difficult, but it's really tight in that area...However I'll betcha' dimes to donuts that the NAS 90 master cylinder will be adequate.

--D

No not hard at all. Make a bit of an adapter to bolt the thing on the vac booster and make a new push rod the right length (a bit of 3/8 bolt). Biggest hassel is getting the brake lines to fit so you will have to extend them, new fittings etc etc. I suppose you r master cly is mounted backwards and runs of a pivot just like the series rigs. You wont have much room in there.

I agree I think the d90 one will sort of work.

Sam

Yea...I'm thinking "sort of work" too, now that I look at that f'in HUGE caliper that's on the 60. Time will tell...And the time is NOW!

==D

This is sort of a tangent, but still break related. On my new truck, a 1980 RR, the hood had been left off for about five years. It was out in the desert, and while corosion isn't an issue, sun decay has "eaten" up the plastic reservoir for the mastercylinder. Is the reservoir replacable, and if not, what recomendations, if any, would you guys have for an alternative master cylinder.

-Jeff

Yea they are avaliable...Not sure about a 80' RR though...But I'm sure you can find one.

They break all the time when you pry it of the MS...Have to be reeeaaal careful when you pull it off (if you plan on re-useing it). Jamie will have a part # up shortly I'm sure!:p