I am getting tired of notching my tubes with the chop saw and was hoping to get some opinions on which tubing notcher everybody is using?

I like the JD2 unit because of the billet clamp but it is $160 compared to the ebay units for $69 that would probably do the job.

Thanks,
jw

Get the JD2...You won't be disapointed...The JD has roller bearings, very positive/accurate clamp, stainless shaft, degree stamp up to 50 deg, etc...The cheapo's typically run off a bronze/brass bush, Good for one project and then they are toast. Spend now or spend twice/three times later.

i have a protools notcher, i think everything protools makes is exactly the same as jd2. also uses needle bearings, and the shaft even has a grease point. dont go with the cheapo, you only get what you pay for. the price is on the website...protools.com i think. and it goes up to 60 degrees.
pat

I have a JD2 and it is a high-class notcher. However, it bugs me that it only goes to 50*. It really pisses me off to have a $150 notcher and still be doing half my notching with the plasma torch. I am definately going to buy one that goes to 150* or more some day.

J. J.

here's some links; enjoy

http://www.pro-tools.com/hsn500.htm

http://www.jd2.com/TN-100.htm

http://www.jointjigger.com/

http://www.mittlerbros.com/products/holesawnotcher.htm

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/headsearch.taf?function=Search

You forgot one. :)

Williams Low Buck Tools (http://209.238.153.119/notcher.html)

Ya, a few more $$$ than others, but like the "cut, flip, cut, weld" approach.

A buddy has one, who has built up some tube frame race cars. Fast and quick way of notching. Of course he is an ass, as he will walk up to something... measure with his hand spread out, go back and cut & drill it... and the sucker fits perfect every time! Mean while, I measure, cut, try fit... open up the holes a little, try again, make another... which then looks perfect!

Hmm, of course you could buy a Scotchman!

Tom

I paid $25 for a HF special. I do maybe 20% of my joints with it, the rest are still easier with the chop saw and/or grinder. I don't believe higher dollar units would be any more useful. I put a few drops of engine oil on it before use and I expect it will last me WAY longer than this project. If I were a pro shop or expected to do 3 or 4 cages a year, I would probably buy the better units. For less than that, I'm happy with my $25 investment, I don't have money to throw into over-kill tools that I will never see a return on investment (IMO).

I prefer the 1½" end mill on the bridgeport.

Northern Tool Company has one that goes to 175* for ~$175, I think.

J. J.

If you buy the harbor freight notcher, inspect it carefully. The main shaft is threaded for the smaller hole saws, and there is a little adaptor that threads over the end for the larger saws. I have had a problem with the threads on the adaptor being out of true, and the larger saws get a wobble as a result. HF is good about taking them back, but I dont WANNA hafta take em back. Next buy will be a higher $$ unit.

Brian

So, which notcher is best for under $200? jd2? Protools? Jointjigger? MittlerBros?

I want to order one TODAY, but want to get the best one.

Thanks,
Phil

Originally posted by BornInAJeep
I prefer the 1½" end mill on the bridgeport.


wussy :flipoff2:... i like my 2" :D

Looks like I will get either jd2, or protools. They are both the same price $169 - which is better? Anyone?

Phil

I started a specific thread with my question:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=125020

Hopefully someone knows which is best.

Thanks,
Phil

JD2 notcher.....worth every penny!

What makes it better than the protools? The protools can do 10 degrees more (60 instead of 50).
So why should I get the jd2?

Thanks,
Phil

Originally posted by 1TONTJ
What makes it better than the protools? The protools can do 10 degrees more (60 instead of 50).
So why should I get the jd2?

Thanks,
Phil

thats the only one ive used.....works great for me, going on close to a 1000' of tubing using it with the same whole saw blade:D

a buddy of mine makes these because the common ones available leave something to be desired.

if you want one i can get ahold of him and sell it to you probally around 250

:D

Is it just me, or does this look REAL easy to make (As long as you can source the cutting part?)

http://209.238.153.119/Notcher.gif

I need one in my hands by this weekend so I doubt I can get a custom one.

So, the protools one good? Extra 10 degrees is nice.

Phil

overnight ups to canada is cheap :flipoff2: just use a 5"grinder or chop saw. my entire buggy wasnotched with those two tools.

Originally posted by DRM
Is it just me, or does this look REAL easy to make (As long as you can source the cutting part?)

http://209.238.153.119/Notcher.gif

I like the looks of that one, no drill needed!!!

I have the Williams Low-Buck notcher. works pretty good. takes

a bit of force to go thru 2" x.120 DOM with it. it needs to be

bolted down for sure, as clamping it in a vice results it the notcher

just slipping out of the jaws.

the small cutting dies (the round part) only cost $20 each. the

"saddle" part of the notcher is sort of universal to the die sizes.

there are three saddle-size peices. I have 2 of them.

--Sherpa

Originally posted by SHERPA
I have the Williams Low-Buck notcher. works pretty good. takes

a bit of force to go thru 2" x.120 DOM with it. it needs to be

bolted down for sure, as clamping it in a vice results it the notcher

just slipping out of the jaws.

the small cutting dies (the round part) only cost $20 each. the

"saddle" part of the notcher is sort of universal to the die sizes.

there are three saddle-size peices. I have 2 of them.

--Sherpa


Sounds good :)

Looks like a HD punch-out tool to me... that what it looks like in person too? Shoot - I wonder if some HD punch out dies would work? :confused:

Got a lathe?

Make one........

http://www.cncburning.com/tubetool.jpg

http://www.cncburning.com/tubelath.jpg

This setup gets clamped in your compound cross slide. Use a holesaw in your 3 jaw chuck.

David,

I'm not sure what a HD puchout die is-? are you refering to

an electrical-punch die set type of thing-? the round die for

the low buck is just a flat disk. threaded hole in the center for

mounting onto the "ram". Williams says the dies are hardened

harder than the back of superman's head....... wow...


Now, If I could just use the notcher in my 90 ton scotchman...

--Sherpa

Originally posted by DRM



Sounds good :)

Looks like a HD punch-out tool to me... that what it looks like in person too? Shoot - I wonder if some HD punch out dies would work? :confused:

Originally posted by SHERPA
David,
I'm not sure what a HD puchout die is-? are you refering to
an electrical-punch die set type of thing-? the round die for
the low buck is just a flat disk. threaded hole in the center for
mounting onto the "ram". Williams says the dies are hardened
harder than the back of superman's head....... wow...

Now, If I could just use the notcher in my 90 ton scotchman...
--Sherpa




Yes, I am talking about an electrical punch-out tool/die set.

Unless there is some kind of edge, how does the Low-Buck cut the tube? :confused: Maybe I am not understanding the process...

ok all I have a lowbuck punch/notcher.

how the hell do you notch angles? am I missing somthing?

I can only make notches for 90's

DRM, it cuts it by pinching/breaking a circle out of each side.

cut then flip then cut works fast but only for 90's unles I am a retard..

who make a 150 degree holesaw?

DRM, I have been using one of those Lowbuck notchers for a while now and they work kinda like scissors. You can adjust the clearance between the cutting edge and the base. The cutting edge is just a round disk that has been hardend. This thing works great. it does not do angels at all but it sure amkes straight notches easy. It is unbelievably fast and very simple to use.

Moab austin, i dont think you can do angles with it. The only way that i have found to do any kinda angle is by pushing the tube as far in as possible on on side and not so much on the other. If you figure oput how to do it let me know.

I would like to see some pictures of notches made with a chop saw. Seems like a shitty way to make a notch. There's no way you could make one that fit nearly as well as a notcher. By the way I've done my entire tube chassis with the cheap harbor freight one. Still cutting like a champ. It's not all good tho. The first one I got I wore out after one cage, but I've been good about keeping this one lubed up and it's doing great. Now the MF is gonna crap out on me just because I said all that:mad:

Originally posted by truckdweld


Moab austin, i dont think you can do angles with it. The only way that i have found to do any kinda angle is by pushing the tube as far in as possible on on side and not so much on the other. If you figure oput how to do it let me know.

Just cut the tube on the required angle, then just notch the pointy end. Try it out a couple of times and you will see what I'm talking about.

With the Low Buck notcher you take a bigger notch out of one side of the tube than the other to get an angled notch. Takes a couple practice pieces to get it down, but once you get the feel of it works great.

just like EMSoffroad said,

for angle notches, you simply make your angle cut, then

notch the tip-end only.

--Sherpa

i own the jd billet aluminum notcher nice unit but they flex when you push on them , now i use a pro-tools hsn500 this is much better then my jd because it is made of plate steel rather then aluminum . pro-tools hsn500 sells for 158.00

Mmmmmmmmm:

http://www.pro-tools.com/images/EMN510B.jpg

I know it's way overpriced at $3200 but I played with one at SEMA and it was awesome. I did my whole frame with a HF holesaw notcher and spending 10 minutes on a single notch on 2" DOM is rediculous... I think it's going to be my next purchase...

Originally posted by willyswanter

I know it's way overpriced at $3200 but I played with one at SEMA and it was awesome. I did my whole frame with a HF holesaw notcher and spending 10 minutes on a single notch on 2" DOM is rediculous... I think it's going to be my next purchase...

Absolutely beyond comprehension..........

I collect tools, and would love to have that, but that'd really be bordering insanity.

I have the jd2, The alum got deformed in the adjusting slot so it doesnt slide smoothly. It also doesnt cut on center, Either from lame machining or the adaptor piece necessary to run the hole saw. If i could do the whole tube bender/die set/notcher purchase again i would buy only pro-tool stuff. My .02

My pro-tools does'nt notch in the center either.:(

Broncobob-

you can make verry nice notches in in tube with a chop saw, but only at joint angles of up to around 30*. You make two cuts that intersect on the center of the tube like this /\. You must use the corect angle for tube to tube sizes and then + and - the intersection angle. If you go over a 30* intersection angle you usaly max out the degree range on the saw.

Originally posted by tigweld
My pro-tools does'nt notch in the center either.:(

Originally posted by bunk85
have the jd2, The alum got deformed in the adjusting slot so it doesnt slide smoothly. It also doesnt cut on center, Either from lame machining or the adaptor piece necessary to run the hole saw. If i could do the whole tube bender/die set/notcher purchase again i would buy only pro-tool stuff. My .02


Wow - for those prices, that is a HUGE disappointment :eek:

Sad... Don't want to piss you guys off but, my $25 HF notcher *does* notch almost perfectly centered and I've had no problems with it flexing. Just gotta keep it oiled good with the brass bushing. Even at that, I almost never use it. I find it's easier to just use the chop saw and a little light adjustment with the 4.5"...

Yeah, I was really dissapointed the jd2 didnt work as well as i expected. Im gonna make some spacers so i can shim the "v-block" portion of it out or mill it down a bit to make it work better. Different hole saws and different tube dia make no difference. However what i really want to know about is a abrasive notcher. Have only heard about em. Pics or links anyone? How long does the sanding belt last?

my $.02

i have the jd2 notcher and i wish i hadn't of wasted my money.. any that uses a hole saw sucks! i'm saving my money for that low buck tools shear notcher.. i don't know what you guys are talking about, but it seems pretty simple to do angles with it to me.. same as chop saw method.. and it'll fit perfect because the straight cut leaves you with the perfect curved end to fit over another piece of tube.. also, i don't make a V after i notch with the chop saw.. i want a flat spot at the end of the tube, not a point.. i hate my hole saw notcher very much..

I agree about the sharp point. You gotta grind it back to get to solid metal to weld... I usually wind up grinding more on 90* joints made with the circle saw notcher than I do notches made with the chop saw.

As for using the punch on angled joints and having it come out "perfect" by just using the offset bite mentioned earlier, that won't happen either unfortunately. When the tube meets at an angle, the "U"s follow a different arc on each side. The inside will have a taller, narrower parabolic shape, and the outside will be getting flatter as you add angle. In fact, at around 45* there is no cut on the outside to be made. Bottom line, to get a good fit, you gotta use a grinder even if you use a fluted mill to get “perfect” angled joints… Oh, and on critical stuff like cages, I always bevel the edges anyway so that I KNOW I have a good deep full-pen weld.

Thanks for the great info guys. I am getting the protools unit.

Phil

Originally posted by tigweld
Broncobob-

you can make verry nice notches in in tube with a chop saw, but only at joint angles of up to around 30*. You make two cuts that intersect on the center of the tube like this /\. You must use the corect angle for tube to tube sizes and then + and - the intersection angle. If you go over a 30* intersection angle you usaly max out the degree range on the saw.

Oh, I understand how it's done. I just can't imagine a quality fitting notch

I did my whole frame with a HF holesaw notcher and spending 10 minutes on a single notch on 2" DOM is rediculous...

Are you retarded or one handed? It shouldn't take that long :confused: :flipoff2:

i have been using my HF one.. make sure you get a good hole saw and get to it.. using it on 1.75 DOM... no problems yet.. you have to be smarter than the tool youre using...
plus, if it fawks up on ya... take it back..

ABout the people saying that they don't like the sharp points(Thin wall) on the ends when using a holesaw notcher...You are using it wrong. If you do not cut so deep with the notcher that will not happen. For instance, right now I am working with 1.75" tubing. Half of the hole saw diameter is 7/8", but I find that cutting around 5/8" deep leaves me with the full wall thickness at the points.

You are basically getting the same results as you would after beveling the joint for welding, but you are just saving alot of time shaping with the grinder.

I recently borrowed a JD2 notcher that cut WAY off center. I thought the reason it was cutting off center was due to a previous user, but now that you all are complaining of problems with your notchers doing the same thing out of the box, I know differently. All I did to correct the problem was to pinch some 1/2" flat washers inbetween the frame and the bearing housing. WHen you tighten up the bolts the flat washers are held securely. By adjusting the postion of the washers just a few times I had the saw cutting right on center. For me it was a 5 cent fix, that took just a few minutes, and worked well for all the notching I did on my buggy with it.

I also have a Harbor Freight notcher now, and it is a supprisingly good tool. Cost me all of $40. It cuts right on center; The bushings are just as tight as the bearings on the JD notcher for now, and I suspect they will stay tight as long as I keep them lubed. They only thing I don't like about it is the tube clamp which is going to be an easy fix.

Sean

My HF cut strait at the begining, but by the end of my chasis, it cut off center, The reason why it does this is when the wholesaws jam the big backing plate bends where it necks down. I think that the steal ones are stronger, and if you encounter this problem weld or bolt a piece of angle to the back of it to stiffen it. I have bent mine back so many times that it is starting to crack. Although it does not take mutch to do that to alum. I like that notcher camo posted that his buddy makes. I am thinking of making my own, and making it large like that i think it will work better.
Also for you cheap guys you can do what i plan on doing with mine, is buy a HF one, and when it goes to shit re make some parts to be beefier, and use the parts that are hard to fab.

Ian-

Hey Phil I suggest you buy from rockbuggy supply I just bought mine yesterday and he is the cheapest around. 158 compared to 179

Thanks for the info - too bad it was hours too late. I ordered and paid $169 for it from www.mtechsupply.com

Thanks,
Phil

Station -
I figured that out after using it a few time, but most of the time I have my tubes cut long until ready to notch. Often, the shop-saw and band saw are unable to clamp the bent tube. Even if they can, I still bevel the crotch of the notch with a 4.5 so I just grind off the knife edge at the same time...

Originally posted by broncorob


Oh, I understand how it's done. I just can't imagine a quality fitting notch



Are you retarded or one handed? It shouldn't take that long :confused: :flipoff2:

Hehe, well, ok... What I was doing is making the little short pieces that went in between the two parallel frame rails. What I was doing is just cutting straight through the tube with the hole saw so it was cutting all the way around. Then cut half way through it, take it out, flip it over, cut through other half. All that took around 8-10 minutes.... When I'm doing normal notches and I chop the end and notch it it takes about 1 minute.

I want a mill...

Originally posted by BadDog
Even if they can, I still bevel the crotch of the notch with a 4.5 so I just grind off the knife edge at the same time...

i totally agree the grinder is the most important notching tool..

What about getting this MILL (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=7171&categoryId=156)

and an end mill bit. This thing would make a killer drill press and do some small scale machining work as well. If you are doing a lot and could get it to work its not bad for the price, especially since it would have plenty of other uses.

I just have to convince the wife its a good idea.

Mike B