Hey folks, ive got a spikes tactical .22 LR upper on my LOwer, it has trhe 4.5" barrel on it.

I took it to the range and sprayed a bunch of "rem dri lube" that gives a waxy residue on the bolt and carrier.

I notice it does a lot of gimmicky things:
sometimes the bolt does not pull all the way back and thus the spent casing is not ejected all the way out, and then it fails to feed a new round in.

I was thinking that i sprayed too much of this thick lubricant in, causing gunky slow movement of the bolt and carrier.

I was also thinking that because of the short barrel that the gas from the blowback mechanism of my gun might not be pushing the bolt back as efficiently as a long barreled gun?

i hope im making sense to you guys.

My quesiton is, can you recommend a really light and fine lubricant that i can use on my gun instead of the rem lube?

im from Canada (gasp, i know i know) and my town only has a couple of gun shops with limited selection. However i do travel to Michigan often and would gladly go there to buy any recommended lube.

Heres the rifle in question:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/aaron_simkovich/IMGP1424.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/aaron_simkovich/IMGP1425.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/aaron_simkovich/IMGP1427.jpg

Thats a nice looking upper! I just got my Spike's Tactical .22lr upper in last week. I went with the 5.5" barrel and carbine length rails to cover the suppressor a little more.

I haven't been able to shoot mine yet, but I've always used Break Free CLP in all of my guns and haven't had any problems. I use it in my Ciener kit as well and it performs flawlessly.

Link (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=840573)

Synthetic motor oil in the lightest grade you can find.

Seriously.

Militec 1.
apply and then fire a bunch or bake in the oven at like 170* for a bit and then wipe off the excess.

hey guys thanks for all the replies, got a bottle of militec, will have to travel for the breakfree!

for the motor oil:

finest i canfind is 0w20, i know once it heats up it will go to the "20" viscocity....

but waht about transmission fluid? it has more detergents than motor oil, and impretty sure its thinner?

I'm still working on a quart of 10w40 that I had left over from my BMW days, it works just fine.

And last I heard(and the "holy sheet that oil is still hot!" oil change I performed today showed), motor oils tend to get thinner when they heat up, not thicker.

Moly

Synthetic motor oil in the lightest grade you can find.

Seriously.

Dubble yoo tee eff?? I've never heard of using motor oil on a gun before. Does this apply to all rimfires or just AR's?

Moly

What?

Dubble yoo tee eff?? I've never heard of using motor oil on a gun before. Does this apply to all rimfires or just AR's?

All.

It works just as well as anything else I've tried, militech aside, but it's also 1/100th of the price of other "gun" lubes.

That and red synthetic wheel bearing grease is all I use any more.

Dumb question, but other than the gay gun lock what the the process for a SBR in canada, just the same as any other rifle?

That and red synthetic wheel bearing grease is all I use any more.

yup, and use it on all the big toys at work that will allow it

SBR? short barrelled rifle im guessing?


Well, in canada the AR15 is a restricted firearm, meaning this:

you cant hunt with it
you can only shoot it at the range
storage must be with a trigger lock in a locked area, transporting is the same (instead of locked area, use a locked case)


To obtain a restricted firearm (deemed by name or type ie pistols) you must have your first basic firearms license PAL then apply for the restricted licesne.

The only part of the AR that is registered is the lower reciever.
The barrel doesnt matter, to keep it simple. I know there are tons of technicalities.


Also: in canada, if a manufacturer makes a rimfire rifle with a short barrel it is legal, as long as its the same way from the manufacturer.

I cant take a ruger 10/22 and chop the barrel to 10", however if i bought a whistle pig barrel that length, or ruger made the 10/22 with a 10" barrel everything would be fine.


So i bought a lower from a guy locally, put that together. At the same time i ordered the upper from a company in the states, i then went through some paperwork to export it from the states and then brought it home, totally kosher.

Now i just have to figure out the lube thing and all will be well.


once i get my optic chosen.

So you can own it, but it's basically useless because it has to be locked up all the time.

I did a light polish with CLP and 600 grit wet dry on the rails, then just hose this shit out of it with Rem Oil....works great. 5.5" bbl FWIW.....

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y121/Unka-Boo/IMG_2754.jpg

( has a 5" flash hider on it in the pic)

What?

Nuthin...just saying you're a two dollar hooker :flipoff2:

yes its almost useless, but its what i wanted!

its locked up all the time, can only go to the range. smith or cop shop

but when its at the range its fun time!

I have a can of Remington dry lube. I think I'll use it for target practice or throw it in a bonfire because it sure doesn't work worth a shit on any guns I've used it on.

yes its almost useless, but its what i wanted!

its locked up all the time, can only go to the range. smith or cop shop

but when its at the range its fun time!

What if you lived out in the country? Could you just go shoot it in the field behind your house?

On my guns I've tried:
Moly spray "dry slide" - wears off too quickly, messy to use, looks like shit IMO.
Militec-1 - Soaks in TOO well for most guns I shoot, "high tolerance" parts need an oil cushion to ride on. *see results.
Rem-oil - overpriced silicone spray? excellent anti corrosive, but too thin for lube.
CLP - Attracts dust and everything you own will smell like CLP for a couple days. (It has that unique "National Guard Armory" aroma - gun chicks dig it).
Outers Gun Oil - Pretty much seems like plain 'ol mineral oil to me.
Oster Kool-lube - Meant for barber clippers, but it works well for spraying out a powder fouled .22 semiauto at the range.
Lubriplate grease- *see below
LSA- Mil issue "thick" gun oil *see below
30w motor oil - *see below
Sewing machine oil - *see below
Marvel Mystery Oil - *see below


Results:
-My 10/22 functions best with $2/bottle generic sewing machine oil (Closest thing I have to what you own)
-M4 liked Militec-1 in/on the bolt and receiver with LSA (thick stuff) in the buffer tube. Anything in the buffer tube tends to stay put while carried, but sling forward when you shoot - My combo of lubes didn't attract dirt, but made the bolt "self lubing" during fire. Worked well in the desert.
-Machine guns love LSA. (If you aren't covered with black "freckles" after shooting a .50, it wasn't lubed enough)
-My revolvers like plain ol' 30w non-detergent motor oil (lawnmower engine oil).
-The Garand and bolt actions get Lubriplate grease, LSA, or CLP depending on the part.
-I use Pledge furniture polish for exterior cleaning - safe on all finishes, won't rust steel or attract dust.

-Note: Marvel Mystery Oil works well as a light general purpose oil and takes carbon off pretty well. I sometimes soak parts in it overnight.

These are just my personal experiences - YMMV.

What if you lived out in the country? Could you just go shoot it in the field behind your house?

someone could do that, but its breaking the law, dont ask me why, i know its silly.

I have never had any trouble with Rem Oil.

i like the synthetic lucas gun oil. i didnt know they made that shit till i saw it in a catolog. it was cheap too!

I really like militec when it is applied properly.