Hey guys new to pirate here.just wondering what everyones thoughts were on the type of tubing to use for a ling arm set up on my cherokee.also would it be cheaper to make my own long arms or buy something from rustys or RE.thanks for the help in advance.

well, im using 2" square 1/4" wall.

Make them if you can, just learning how to build them is worth it even if they cost you more to make. Which most likely they wont. So first get some measurements on how long you want the arms. Then order some tubing for the links from: http://bluetorchfab.com/store/index.php?cPath=36, rod ends and link inserts etc from there. then build a stou xmember to mount these off of

i'm thinking of this as well. I've been told from my mechanic buddy that building them yourself costs way lots and is super hard.

He's saying that, cause he wants the money for ordering and installing the long arms huh?

Yeah, making links is pretty fawking simple really. Its getting everything to work together, and all the bracketry, etc. made that can be a pain in the ass...

My links ending up costing about the same, but I got a much better product. Johnny joints at all ends, no bushings to wear out and cause axle wrap.

Its definitely not easy, but there are so many threads on it, just read a whole bunch before you start....

I used 1.75x3/8" wall and I have already bent one. I am running 2.25x3/8" wall in the back with no issues yet.

Looks like you're in CA, so that means rocks. You'll want some pretty stout material, 1/4 wall won't cut it in most situations. The arms on my XJ are sleeved double wall, and super stout with no bending issues. The links on the XJ buggy are heat treated chromoly, which works very well and isn't as heavy. You can get link material from Poly Performance, less shipping since they are in CA, and they have a very good selection of joints and link material.

Id say 2" OD but bigger than 1/4" wall. If you choose 1/4 I suggest you sleeve it....heavily. My rears are 1/4" but sleeved so heavily (inside and out) there pratically solid. Fronts are 2" 3/8 wall seemless. And I sleeved them too. If you like rocks....get beefy tube.

i just did my rear 4 link w/ airshocks and here's the cost break down....

1.75" .120 wall uppers 8' roughly@ $2.68/ft

2" 3/8 wall lower 8' roughly @ $13/ft

ballistic brackets shipped $230 shipped

new rear driveshaft from high angle $315

SAW airshocks $570 shipped

RE superflex joints (8ea) $305 shipped

do the math it's about the same maybe a little cheaper...thing is you get what you want and the satisfaction of doing it yourself...

this is probably a noob question but is there any writups on exactly how to make the links.i can go off of pictures but it would be nice to see a quality write up on how to make them and the angles and brackets i will need.thanks

I'm building my lowers out of 2" 1/2 wall dom and uppers out of 2" 3/8s wall dom. 1/2wall is about $23 a foot though.

Aside from the obvious cost of having the rods machined, why does everybody use inserts? Why not direct thread the material, then sleeve it to beef it up? Wouldn't welding inserts in potentially create weak spots where cracks could begin?

http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/

Aside from the obvious cost of having the rods machined, why does everybody use inserts? Why not direct thread the material, then sleeve it to beef it up? Wouldn't welding inserts in potentially create weak spots where cracks could begin?

Because I don't have 1" and 1.25" taps?

I tap my steering links, but not the suspension links.

Because I don't have 1" and 1.25" taps?

I tap my steering links, but not the suspension links.
So then it just comes down to cost and equipment.

Make them yourself. I sell tube , and am looking into making custom built links. But still trying to figure out if the market is really there.

Make them yourself. I sell tube , and am looking into making custom built links. But still trying to figure out if the market is really there.
I think the market has been cornered in the Jeep sector already. Already way too many options as it is.

However the custom length one-off type stuff all seems to use welded in tube inserts. Seems like a guy with a lathe and some taps could knock down a little coin selling pre-tapped link stock. Especially with the explosion of link suspensions under everything now.

I was more curious about the strength losses in the welding than anything else.

My lowers on the front and rear are 2" solid, drilled and tapped for the joints....no issues bending there!:D