ok first off this is my first post here so be gental... ok moving on first the set up, i have a 1973 chevy k10 short box 350/350/203, i bought the 203 in a junk yard dont know what it came out of but it is part time 203. it has a flat plate for out put (CV joint?) my problem is i put a 6in lift on it and now the drve shaft hits the t-case crossmember with no droop on the axle in fact it wont even hook up to the axle yoke. i was just going to cut and weld in a piece of c-chanel BUT i want know if this is normal and if not what could it be. it has new tranny and motor mounts in it so nothing there is saggy. thanks:D

I can't remember how mine was on my '78, but building a new crossmember will help in more ways than one if done right. Does your current driveshaft have the CV on it? If not, you will probably need to get one because the u-joints at each end are going to be hating life with that much of an angle on them.

1.

look at the crossmember and make sure you didnt install it backwards. there is a notch for the driveshaft on one side.

2.

you might look at lowering the crossmember, but this will change driveshaft angles for the front driveline.

c.

buy a high angle driveline from someone here on the board.

Need pics of said 203. Cause unless someone converted it to a part-time unit, 203s were fulltime transfer cases.

the flat flange style output is for a Double Cardan style driveshaft.

First off, if its hitting the crossmember, you may have the wrong crossmember for that t case.

or possible need to look at moving the mounting so that the driveshaft isn't hitting it.
Also, it sounds as if your driveshaft is too short. might need to look at getting it lengthened.

superlift use to make a spacer to go between your shaft and flange to get it out past your crossmember even after you get it to clear the crossmember you will have to clearance the double cardon so it doesn't bind.

1.

look at the crossmember and make sure you didnt install it backwards. there is a notch for the driveshaft on one side.

2.

you might look at lowering the crossmember, but this will change driveshaft angles for the front driveline.

c.

buy a high angle driveline from someone here on the board.


there are no notches in the crossmember the front and rear look the same (front is under the t-case and is bolted to it the "rear" one is just hanging there with the skid plate bolted to it and the both look the same)

ill post some pics up of what i have here at work and will take more when i get home im working a double today so didnt have time when i was at home

pic of when i got her home

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f258/roughneck4x4k10/untitled5.jpg

it almost reached but not cuz it's not long enough but it hits the crossmember before it can go down far enough

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f258/roughneck4x4k10/untitled4.jpg

you can see it hit

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f258/roughneck4x4k10/untitled3.jpg

best pic i have of it hitting i think if i just cut and weld in some c-chanel it will clearance well right????


http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f258/roughneck4x4k10/untitled.jpg

hell, since you allready have the plate there weld it up and cut the c out of it.



but pm mj to see if that will work, he had simalar issues.

It looks to me that you have either the wrong crossmember or its in the wrong location.

X2 on wrong crossmember, or possibly wrong mount? that output is really
close to crossmember. I would cut & brace this one as needed.

those are the factory mounts, but the crossmember doesnt look like its got the notch like most do.

I would suggest a new set of poly mounts that dont collapse over time, and the correct notched crossmember, with a driveshaft that was up to the task.

the notch you guys are talking about, doesnt clear the drive shaft like you think.


its there, but its for the yoke or flange not so the cv clears, on top of every think else, the c/m is in backwards, the notch is on th eother side facing forwards. i have always wonderd wtf they were thinking when they built it but mhe.

pm mj, he'll know for sure.

My crossmember sits directly underneath the output for my t case.

His sits under the cv portion. Which is too far forward.

I've never seen a 203 setup, but since they have the gearbox, doesn't it make them longer? Only ever worked with the 205 units. So I am drawing a blank here.

There also could be some woreout ass mounts letting it sit a little lower? Just a thought? But most of the other stuff they told you about is summing it up pretty well.

but pm mj to see if that will work

finally you post good advice.
I think I will go search for your crossmember thread :)

well thank you guys very much i think i will cut and weld in a bit of c-chanel but first look at the c/m a little closer maybe a do have it in wrong. i will be getting the new drive line's front and rear, the rear has a big dent in it any way.