THis is what i'm thinking

Option 1
Front:Warn hub conversion
spool
Rear:OX/ARB
with tera 2-lo

Option 2
Front: OX/ARB
Detroit or something similar

Option 3
Front/Rear: ARB/OX

Option 4
Front/Rear: Detroits or something similar
with tera 2-lo

i want opinions and experiences
i've looked around and i think that options 1 and 3 are the best for what i'm looking for but my mind is open to everything right now, if anyone has any other setups, i would love to hear them, thank you for your time, Jamie

Ox front
Spool rear

Um....vehicle? Axles? Type of use? Spool in the front is way bad without hydralic assist steering, you mentioned the Warn conversion, so I assume that this is a disconnect axle, if you're running a Dana 35 rear you can't spool it, but in a light vehicle, spool rear is the way to go, selectable locker up front, I run an OX, in something heavy enuogh to push on the street from a spooled rear I'd run an OX in the rear too. Detroits are great in something heavy, squirrely in a short wheelbase, hard on parts in the front. ARB's.....some people love them, too many thing that can go wrong in my opinion, lots of small movign parts, air lines, compressor, wiring, solenoids....

A LOT to be said for the simplicity and point and shoot of detriots. (no remembering to use the ARB/OX.)

I would go ARB over OX any day. Cheaper, has a longer rep, doesn't have the funky engaging issues of an OX. Only problems with the ARB's I have heard of short of freak accidents, are ALL installer screw ups.

:D

Dude forget all that exotic Bullshit (ARB, OX) and go for the Detroit Lockers front and rear. Lots of time by many people comparing and contrasting the advantages and disadvantages of all the different combos.
Here's what it boils down to.
Detroits give the best traction are on all the time and rule the wasteland, AND have been in production since the 1930s!
If you are wheelin and need that open diff in the front for better turning radius, just put your rear tire on the inside of the turn on whatever it is that is holding you up from making the turn, give it some wood your ass end will slip around and put you in line for the exit.
Locker front and rear baybe. Forget the rest!

After driving a rear locker open front, then F/R Lock Rites , now Detroits F/R I can't be any happier. They are quiet when releasing and grab down when wheeling. on road I hardly notice them. Since you are probaly in Ca snow driving shouldn't be much of a consideration so who cares about a little over steering in some mud now and then.
Here in WA we have both in copius amounts the F?R lockers make quick work of all obstacles.

Lock it, Lift it, Hammer down!!!!:D

So you don't tell us wha your rig is...but if its the Cherokee you have in your sig that still doesn't help much.

My guess is that you still have stock axles, which really aren't worth much. Id slap an (sl)easy locker in the front and a something else cheap in the rear. Depending on your tire size I wouldn't count on the axles holding out.

If youre going to swap axles (which you should) theres alot of axle options. Most people are going to say detroit rear and arb/ox up front. I just got some Waggy 44s for my TJ and I'm going to be putting OXes on them so I can have a spool whenver I feel like it and run open on the street. Best of both worlds and no Air Lines and the like.

No info newbie:mad: I'd say Detroit in the rear and something selectable in the front. Saw a friend on a real steep rock/cliffedge with the front all bound up and unable to steer cause it was locked. Put her in a bad spot that she could've rolled from. Picture this you clear one obstacle and now you need to get far over to the right for the next line you chose well if the steering is fighting you then the locked front will work against you. You can't bob and weave like you might like to. If you have the money selectable front and rear is the way to go I can't tell you how many times I've spilled hot coffee on my thingy when the Jeep shoots to the right 'cause of the locker. BTW I'm thinking you should search next time all this info has been discussed a zillion times.

for a trail rig i am a rear spool (or welded) and front full detroit.

oops sorry i thought my sig would show up
it's a cherokee with a dana 30/ford 8.8/4.88's/35's

no one has said anything about the warn hub conversion, hasn't anyone used it or heard anything about it?

Oxen front and rear. (Although, I don't think the Ox is out quite yet for the 8.8.) That's what I have and, as far as I've found there are zero drawbacks. You get the best of both worlds.

IMHO and all that happy shit :flipoff2: ,

Jake

Originally posted by TheHighHeat
oops sorry i thought my sig would show up
it's a cherokee with a dana 30/ford 8.8/4.88's/35's

no one has said anything about the warn hub conversion, hasn't anyone used it or heard anything about it?

I run the same setup in my YJ. I have a spool in the back and a lockright in the front. And for the hub conversion, forget it. Too much $$. Get a posi-lok for $200 and with a lock-right (or anything else) you basically have a selectable locker in the front plus you eliminate that vacuum bullshit. I love mine.

Originally posted by high5
for a trail rig i am a rear spool (or welded) and front full detroit.

I'm with High5. I just received a detroit front and a spool rear with 4.88 for my new axles. I've run detroits front and rear, welded front and rear before, and the welded was noticeably harder to turn then the detroits.

Detroits just work with 0 worries.

Originally posted by MossMan

I run the same setup in my YJ. I have a spool in the back and a lockright in the front. And for the hub conversion, forget it. Too much $$. Get a posi-lok for $200 and with a lock-right (or anything else) you basically have a selectable locker in the front plus you eliminate that vacuum bullshit. I love mine.

I second the posi lock, but what year cherokee, do you even have a disconnect?

If he currently had a disconnect why would he buy the Warren hub conversion?:rainbow:

He either has a newer cherokee or did a one piece shaft conversion with 297x joints.

In that case "no disco" I would buy cheep lunch box lockers, lockrights front and rear. I just wouldent want to throw that kinda mony into the Dana 30,

but since you already have 4.88s installed, a sunk cost why stop, buy Ox' s all round.

EDIT: Well if the OX is available for the 8.8, other wise go ARB front and rear.

you didnt tell us your driving conditions so we kinda all have to answer ARB or Ox cuase thy fit any and all conditions.....

i don't have disco and i don't have the gears installed yet

I saw a broken OX-locker last week after 200mls of using in a mild mod. Jeep TJ.
Go with the locker on this site www.killeraxles.com
They are on the market in Europe since 1979 and available in US end of this year.

Originally posted by Wolfgang
I saw a broken OX-locker last week after 200mls of using in a mild mod. Jeep TJ.
Go with the locker on this site www.killeraxles.com
They are on the market in Europe since 1979 and available in US end of this year.


For any diff to blow in 200 miles, something was fawked before it was even installed or it was installed wrong. That or someone installed it in a D35 behind a big motor with big tires.

Dont think I could ever bring myself to install anything vac operated on purpose. Seems everything vac operated is a nightmare waiting to happen. Is that a cast aluminum diff cover on that thing? And isnt that the same sight you've been pimpin for ages now?

Kwrangln

Normaly if you install a big motor and big tires, you first will blow your D35 axle before you blow your locker. I think the aftermarket locker have to be stronger than the rest of the axle. I only change parts on my truck to make the truck better, stronger and reliable.
In this case there was a broken cross shaft on the ox-locker. Nothing you can install wrong!
The locker was installed in a 99TJ 4.0 with 35" tires.
I do not know why the shaft broke, i only know, the shaft broke!

I agree, 1 second waiting until it happens is a nightmare and waisting the time:rolleyes: Did you ever test it?