OK, how about another build thread? this time I'll be working on the front.

Removed hood, fenders, windshield, blower assembly, heater assembly and heater core. Verified that it still runs (and presumably drives) as shown in this picture. The bulk of the main harness connectors are disconnected, and therefore that wiring is not needed. Time to get rid of it.

Here is what I have left in the dash fuse panel--three circuits.

#3 in satellite 1 (20 amp): Engine Management
#17 in main panel (10 amp): Starter
#13 in main panel (10 amp): Ignition feed for MFU

I was surprised to see that I was able to pull both fuses for the alarm and the fuse for the MFU, and it still starts and runs. Pulling fuse #13 causes a no start, however.

My plan is to get rid of this fuse panel and move these three circuits to the under-hood fuse panel, where I will be removing 5 of the 7 circuits fused by regular blade fuses (as opposed to the maxi-fuses), only the fuel pump and fuel injector fuses will remain. The other two freed circuits will be used for headlights and rocklights, respectively. Comments from the electrical experts out there before I do this?

Here is what I have left in the dash fuse panel--three circuits.

#3 in satellite 1 (20 amp): Engine Management
#17 in main panel (10 amp): Starter
#13 in main panel (10 amp): Ignition feed for MFU

I was surprised to see that I was able to pull both fuses for the alarm and the fuse for the MFU, and it still starts and runs. Pulling fuse #13 causes a no start, however.

My plan is to get rid of this fuse panel and move these three circuits to the under-hood fuse panel, where I will be removing 5 of the 7 circuits fused by regular blade fuses (as opposed to the maxi-fuses), only the fuel pump and fuel injector fuses will remain. The other two freed circuits will be used for headlights and rocklights, respectively. Comments from the electrical experts out there before I do this?

WOW!!!! Im suprised its only 3 main fuses for the engine!

GO alex its you birthday!! :evil:

chop chop just cut it all out you will not need it I bet you can shave about 80 lbs or better if you work at it .....:smokin:

REmember what I told you. Cut a wire, start the engine, repeat as necessary!

There are few feelings as sinking as having cut a handful of wires and realizing at least one of them was critical to keeping the engine running!

Leave a few fuse positions open for future expansion. GPS, CB/ham radio, STEREO! (so you can blast Darkstar as you crash! [it's a deadhead joke!]) etc. There will almost certainly be something you'll want to add in the future, might as well make it easy on yourself.

Man you werent kidding, you can put a cooler in front of the t case shifter.. look at all that SQ footage...

Wire harness trimming is done. everything not necessary is out.. All of the black boxes including the MFU, the green alarm box, the stock facia fuse panel are gone.

there are now 10 wires crossing the firewall, and five of them belong to the data link connector. there is one relay left inside. the entire car has six fused circuits remaining:

100A alternator
60A Ignition system
20A fuel injectors
15A fuel pump
20A ECU
10A OBD2 power

I plan to rewire the two circuits that are still fused inside to the under hood fuse panel. this will still leave 7 open circuits

1. Headlights
2. Rock Lights
3. air compressor clutch (anyone know what amperage this should be fused at? Rover combines the clutch with the fans, so this isn't clear)
4. Ignition switch/starter relay
5. Interior circuits to feed new fuse subpanel
6. future use
7. future use

New inside fuse subpanel
1. Interior lights (LED) and gauge lights
2. GPS
3. CB
4. Cigarette lighter
and some extras for future use


I will need to rewire everything that's currently inside--even though there are only a few wires, they have a bunch of ugly splices. I don't want that wiring inside, in any case. There are also about 20 wires hanging off connectors under the hood that will need to be trimmed off and insulated.

I'm pretty happy with how this is turning out, and especially the fact that the car runs just fine without the alarm.

alex
have you given any thought to what if any ldiot lights you might keep
for exampleTransmission/Transfer Box Oil Temperature
Warning Light
The transmission/transfer box oil temperature
warning light is grounded by the Automatic
Transmission Oil Temperature Switch (X108) when
the temperature of the transmission fluid exceeds
130°C (266°F). The warning light is also grounded
by the Transfer Box Oil Temperature Switch (X174)
when the temperature of the transfer box fluid
exceeds 145°C (266°F).
armed with this info you can split the one light into two one for xfer and one for trans


now if I understand you right you got rid of the mfu? or did you get rid of the mfru?

Holy simple wiring batman! Never knew so much could be trimmed out.

does this mean no more factory subwoofers?:flipoff2:

ALL of the black boxes are gone, even the subwoofers. The only two that remain are the ECM and the Multi-function relay under the hood, which controls the fuel pump. Kinda need that. There is also one relay that sits b/w the key switch and the starter solenoid.

I plan to run a few gauges... Tach, oil pressure, coolant temp, trans temp. maybe a fuel gauge too.

I'm giong to try to find gauges with built in idiot lights to force me to pay attention.

I'll also probably make an idiot light for the CDL if I can figure that out.

That's probably about all I'll need.

ALL of the black boxes are gone, even the subwoofers. The only two that remain are the ECM and the Multi-function relay under the hood, which controls the fuel pump. Kinda need that. There is also one relay that sits b/w the key switch and the starter solenoid.

I plan to run a few gauges... Tach, oil pressure, coolant temp, trans temp. maybe a fuel gauge too.

I'm giong to try to find gauges with built in idiot lights to force me to pay attention.

I'll also probably make an idiot light for the CDL if I can figure that out.

That's probably about all I'll need.


Was there just as many as those triple and quad rover splice jobs on under the hood like in the rear? I did a lot of soldering and heat shrinking to get rid of that shit.

so you will not need or use a chk engine light?

it will just be on all the time because I don't have any of the EVAPS stuff or a factory fuel gauge. I can still pull codes though, the datalink connector is there.

please tell me you did keep all of the o2 sensors ?

only the upstream sensors.

only the upstream sensors.

The ones that matter!:flipoff2::flipoff2:

If you have access to a Rovacom or similar, you can tell the ECU the truck is not advanced EVAP and you won't have the eternal CEL. I like to retain the CEL as it can be a valuable indicator of a problem condition.

CDL indicator light should be pretty simple, it's only a switch for God's sake!

AFI's truck will not only have warning lights (probably Autometer shift lights to get his attention) and a big hammer that will hit him in the head should he ignore coolant temp problems:grinpimp:, along with a Sonalert type sounder telling everyone in the county that he's got a warning light on:D

The ones that matter!:flipoff2::flipoff2:

If you have access to a Rovacom or similar, you can tell the ECU the truck is not advanced EVAP and you won't have the eternal CEL. I like to retain the CEL as it can be a valuable indicator of a problem condition.


No shit? Sounds like I have a new project to take care of.:smokin:
Is that something I could just ask a dealership tech (buddy of mine) to do and he would know exactly how, or is it in a hidden menu or something?

Man, I'm gonna have to check this out tomorrow or risk making a fool of myself again!

There are a number of parameters that can be changed in the ECU. I don't remember how the T4 will access such info, but the RCL allows one to write to the ECU to configure for things like Market, transmission, displacement, etc. I'll chekc tomorrow to see if AEL status can be specified from the ECU menu.

The ones that matter!:flipoff2::flipoff2:

If you have access to a Rovacom or similar, you can tell the ECU the truck is not advanced EVAP and you won't have the eternal CEL. I like to retain the CEL as it can be a valuable indicator of a problem condition.

CDL indicator light should be pretty simple, it's only a switch for God's sake!

AFI's truck will not only have warning lights (probably Autometer shift lights to get his attention) and a big hammer that will hit him in the head should he ignore coolant temp problems:grinpimp:, along with a Sonalert type sounder telling everyone in the county that he's got a warning light on:D

Agreed, but it doesn't do any good when its always lit. I also am getting a code (foget the number) but its complaining about lack of a fuel gauge. I don't know if this can be fixed with an aftermarket gauge.

do you know which wire runs the CEL? The CDL indicator I should be able to figure out...

this might help a bit
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine)
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Check Engine) is
grounded by the Engine Control Module (ECM)
(Z132) when a diagnostic trouble code is set

so now start looking for the "code" or a direct short

are you trying to reply to the wiring thread? cause if not I dont get it. actually, I just dont get it.

ok I kind of get it. I found the wire.. see the other thread.

Alex:
I hope you keep a fire extinugisher handy when you're working on the wiring on this truck! :flipoff2:

I have several! Haven't needed even one yet, knock on wood...

Did a little more deconstruction today... With that huge rovertym bumper out of the way, I don't have far to go for 90 degree approach angle.

Did a little more deconstruction today... With that huge rovertym bumper out of the way, I don't have far to go for 90 degree approach angle.

DUDE THATS GREAT!!!! it wont be as much as i was originally thinking..

A bit of progress.

moab carnage... My splices held up ok. The factory part bent :smokin:

Dug in the shed a bit and found some jack stands i made a few years ago. They just happened to be the perfect height to level the car out. Now it doesn't feel like its going to tip over at any moment... Time to start really taking it apart.

Sweet!!

Aren't those the ones you made when you first did the Toy conversion ?

those are the ones.good memory.

Progress?

Whats the end game?

I go where the sawzall takes me.

I go where the sawzall takes me.

I applaud your honesty.

or regress????

Wave hello little land rover....


found a box of disposable gloves. size small. what to do with them?

go till you lose a finger!

Switched gears for a bit to do some cleanup and prep for the new guages... Deleted heater loop. There used to be a nipple here, now there's a 1/2 BSPT plug. Damn brits.

Tapped this for 1/8 pipe for the trans temp sender. Just a touch loose, but a couple of extra wraps of teflon tape will keep it from leaking... and if it does I probably won't notice anyway.

Coolant temp sensor will go in the thermostat neck. Fuel pressure will go on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. That leaves oil pressure. Anyone have an idea where would be a good place to put the oil pressure sender?

a bit more deconstruction. gonna have to go back to cutting soon, no bolts left to remove.

This is quite possibly one of the best ideas in the automotive industry, ever.

I didn't know Rover had that feature. I wonder if my '96 is like that too...

Time to change to right-hand drive !!! ;)

it does. they do that so the same body shell can be used for l/r hand drive. sure makes setting up the pedals a lot easier when you're getting rid of the stock firewall!

OK, I'm thinking, cut a hole right in the middle of the firewall...

OK, I'm thinking, cut a hole right in the middle of the firewall...Or, even better, put one on each side and a driver's seat that slides from side to side on rails...


The next big thing in rock crawling:
BHD (both hand drive)
No need for a spotter.

Or, even better, put one on each side and a driver's seat that slides from side to side on rails...


The next big thing in rock crawling:
BHD (both hand drive)
No need for a spotter.

with some extra slack in the hydraulic hoses and brake hoses that would be totally possible.

I think you should be the first one to do it. think of the competitive advantage you would havfe :flipoff2:

Or, even better, put one on each side and a driver's seat that slides from side to side on rails...

Off topic, but some modern Unimogs have a drive by wire system and a instrument/pedal/steering system that does just that - moves from side to side on a big slider column. Makes cutting the grass on both sides of the road easier...

a bit more minor progress....

sender for the new water temp gauge will go in the stock location--a 1/8npt plug threads right in. I don't know if the threaded hole in the intake is really NPT or if its BSPT, but it fits. Hopefully I can get the sender past the fuel rail..its kind of in the way. If not, the plug stays in and I'll put the sender in the thermostat housing....

and here's a scary little tidbit I found while poking around the engine... would have sucked if this nut backed out the rest of the way while wheeling. Still amazed the motor mounts themselves are in one piece.

Don't take the plug out, it was BSPP. They are close, but the thread pitch differs by one turn per inch-well, that and the angle of the thread is different. Either way, now that you have that plug in there, you're pretty much committed to it being there unless you want to tap it to 1/4 NPT or some such.

the plug is only about 1/4" thick, it went in easily by hand. I think the threads so far are intact...

a little lovin' from the plasma and a 40 grit 7" flap disk makes short work of the stock brackets. Now I have to figure out the front suspension.

3 link?

Maybe... I'd really like to do a 4-link but I don't know if its possible to do at the ride height I want. We'll see. I need to get the axle back together so I can start mocking it up.

and here's a scary little tidbit I found while poking around the engine... would have sucked if this nut backed out the rest of the way while wheeling. Still amazed the motor mounts themselves are in one piece.

I used to bust mine all the time - which ever one is in compression (DS I think) - you don't wheel hard enough :grinpimp:

I guess it's the diff between stress with a gearbox vs slushbox...

the plug is only about 1/4" thick, it went in easily by hand. I think the threads so far are intact...
Either way, if you want to use that port, you'll almost certainly want to tap it to a larger pipe thread. Most of the temp senders are 1/8" NPT. If you tap it to 1/4" NPT, it's a simple matter to bush it down and insert the temp probe-OTOH, you have that nice big 1/2" NPT port that you plugged.

the sender is 1/8 pipe, should go right in this hole (as I mentioned if I can get it past the fuel rail).

The other side is also a possibility if the sender doesn't get past the rail.

and here's a scary little tidbit I found while poking around the engine... would have sucked if this nut backed out the rest of the way while wheeling. Still amazed the motor mounts themselves are in one piece.Motor mounts are over rated.

the sender is 1/8 pipe, should go right in this hole (as I mentioned if I can get it past the fuel rail).

The other side is also a possibility if the sender doesn't get past the rail.

I think you're asking for trouble trying to put an NPT fitting into a hole threaded for BSPP. You're by definition not engaging the threads adequately and are intentionally introducing a potential failure. Either plug the hole with a BSPP plug or tap it larger. Your sender is likely brass and is a tapered thread-the BSPP hole is straight. You're trying to use a tapered brass pipe fitting as a tap and it ain't supposed to be one!

You wouldn't try to use the wrong thread pitch fastener anywhere else on your vehicle would you, much less use that fastener as a thread cutting tool and then leave it in place? This one is even under hydraulic pressure making a future failure even more likely.

C'mawn Alex, do it right!

The 1/8" sender will be fine.

alex

remember to use KISS

go into the kitchen and ask the "boss" for one of these .... you know it will pop up when your done

use this to put it in

First off two words: POWER WASH! :barf:

I would use the stock water temp sender. Worked for my Autometer Lite gauge. I was ready to do the tap thing in the stock location and thought I'd give the stock sender a try...Guess what, it works fine, and temps are the same as with the AM sender. How do I know? Well I wasn't "positive" the stock was the same resistance so I used (forced) the 1/8 NPT in the stock location...Works fine btw. Both sending units sent the same reading.

For oil pressure I tapped the stock oil pressure sending unit. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge btw (1/8th npt).

--D

What, you don't like my "undercoating"? :flipoff2:

that's interesting about the sender. I'll be using autometer gauges also.

For the oil pressure I'm using a flareless compression tee in the oil coller line. I'm using all electrical gauges. The orbital inside the cab is bad enough, I don't need capilarry tubes of hot noxious fluids in the dash too.

What, you don't like my "undercoating"? :flipoff2:

that's interesting about the sender. I'll be using autometer gauges also.

For the oil pressure I'm using a flareless compression tee in the oil coller line. I'm using all electrical gauges. The orbital inside the cab is bad enough, I don't need capilarry tubes of hot noxious fluids in the dash too.

I was impressed as well. Makes water temp a snap.

Good work on the electrical oil pressure. I didn't like the idea of more oil flowing under my dash, but I just couldn't swallow the price tag of an electrical gauge.! I sleeved my plastic tubing with 1/16" rubber breather hose...No issues to date (knock on wood). Still makes me nervous, but at least with the hose being under the dash I'll KNOW for sure when/if it breaks.

First thing when I saw your rig that stripped down was NARROW IT! Go ahead and whack 12" out of the middle of that sucka! Talk about fun with a sawzall!

--D

...
First thing when I saw your rig that stripped down was NARROW IT! Go ahead and whack 12" out of the middle of that sucka! Talk about fun with a sawzall!

--D

if I do that NOW, what am I going to do NEXT?

Then you will buy a hendrix chassis...:D

seriously though, I have sat here for a while and just stared at this thing, imagining what I could do if I just cut off this and redid that. Soon I'm not going to have a lot of time to devote to this project, so I need to keep it simple. Yeah, it won't be perfect, but it should be a lot better. and I'll be able to get it done, and wheel it next season, instead of it being down all summer.

seriously though, I have sat here for a while and just stared at this thing, imagining what I could do if I just cut off this and redid that. Soon I'm not going to have a lot of time to devote to this project, so I need to keep it simple. Yeah, it won't be perfect, but it should be a lot better. and I'll be able to get it done, and wheel it next season, instead of it being down all summer.

RUBICON!!!!:eek:

seriously though, I have sat here for a while and just stared at this thing, imagining what I could do if I just cut off this and redid that. Soon I'm not going to have a lot of time to devote to this project, so I need to keep it simple. Yeah, it won't be perfect, but it should be a lot better. and I'll be able to get it done, and wheel it next season, instead of it being down all summer.

Yea, but from where you are now, narrowing it shouldn't be a big issue at all. Sure it's more work, but having a narrow rig rocks, and how many narrowed Disco's are out there? :) Nudge nudge. :flipoff2:

Now power wash that rig so I don't feel like I have to take a shower every time you post updates! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: ;)

--D

Yea, but from where you are now, narrowing it shouldn't be a big issue at all. Sure it's more work, but having a narrow rig rocks, and how many narrowed Disco's are out there? :) Nudge nudge. :flipoff2:

Now power wash that rig so I don't feel like I have to take a shower every time you post updates! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: ;)

--D


Mine has a narrowed ass :D

But the front would be BAD ASS!!

no can do on the power wash now. Its in the garage and not mobile... I'll tell you what I will do though. I'll cut away some of the dirty parts. how's that sound? :flipoff2:

and lane what doug means is narrow the whole thing. I really don't feel like dealing with that. I know myself--if I go down that road, the whole cage will be gone and I'll be starting over.

The front will be narrowed, of course... it will only be as wide as the radiator in the front, and have 90 deg. plus approach angle.

Good point on the cage and having to start over...Hadn't thought of that. Gotta' draw the line some where. Will you have it done in time for the Hammers? :)

--D

It may be done by February (hard to say but definitely possible) but I don't think I'll be able to make it, regardless.

OK, body is pretty much cut away. Some minor trimming of the floor and firewall to do.. The area under the pedal hangers is left there for reference only, and will be replaced with expanded metal later, as will some of the floor on both sides. Hope it doesn't get too hot.

I'm going to start on some of the tube work in the cab, but I won't be able to do much until I can roll the front axle under it, as that kind of determines where everything winds up. Ahem Keith & Brad. nudge nudge wink wink

I still haven't decided for sure whether I'll be cutting away the front section of the frame... again, I want the axle there so I have a bit more of an idea of what I'm doing. Right now leaning towards lopping it off. The chunk of frame is much heavier than the tubing that would replace it. A bit more work, but should be worth it.

made a dash bar, mocked up the mount for the orbital and the steering wheel...

LoL

Darsquare strikes again:flipoff2:

tHe hEEp SLoWlY fADeS aWaY

is that some sort of secret dwarf language you're talking in?

I have the rears dove tailed as yours is and I kept the fire wall and just narowed the front around the chevy to match the rear. i wanted to keep the front finders till I beat em all to hell then I will go full front cage....looking sharp man keep up the progress

Gotta have one bling part on this thing, right? This item is so sexy I just couldn't help but share a pic.

That is SWEEEET!

Got some redrilled swivel balls from Keith the other day. The front axle will be set up for 15 degrees caster. The main purpose of this is to get the steering arms up higher, and more in line with the ram.

Cool!

Lookin good!

This shot presents a good view of how much higher the steering arms sit. tie rod is for reference only, of course.

Here is where I would like the front axle to end up. its a bit tight, the tightest clearance being oil filter to top of the diff. 2.5" clearance with a genuine filter, 4" clearance with a delco short filter. Probably not enough room, oil filter will most likely need to be remote-mounted.

Driveshafts are the same f/r (stock rear DS). Whellbase is 110.5. Approach angle is 90 degrees.

more.

Did you figure out how to sqeeze a 4 link in there yet..

P>S Great work on the front that looks, great, I love the approach angle...

I think so. I should be able to do parallel uppers (outside of axle) and triangulated lowers coming together at axle center. There will be interference with the stock exhaust. I'll be removing the y-pipe to build the suspension, and rebuilding it around the lower links once they are in place.

I think so. I should be able to do parallel uppers (outside of axle) and triangulated lowers coming together at axle center. There will be interference with the stock exhaust. I'll be removing the y-pipe to build the suspension, and rebuilding it around the lower links once they are in place.
So the 3 link is definitely out? your wanting to delete the panhard right? It would sure make it easier the fit it all in there..

It would sure make it easier the fit it all in there..

what are you talking about here?

by only having one bar with a cross member underneath, rather than 2 and having to dodge the exhaust.

1. I think a four link is worth the extra work
2. It may actually be harder to put a track bar in this config that to do a four link

The only thing I would suggest if you go with a 4 link is make sure that you have enough space between the tires and coils/coil-overs. As you know with a 4 link your axle will swing side to side while articulating. I found out the hard way that the axle swings more than static testing shows. I thought I had all the clearance I needed, but I was only using jacks and hoists to check clearances. Then, once built, I moved the rig out and jacked the rear tire up 60+ inches using a fork-lift....Oppps. Major interference with the front inside tire(s) side wall and the coils. Also the drive-shaft swung into the header collector (with stock manifolds you might not have that problem).

That's when I decided to go with a front track-bar and 3-link. Still kept the triangulated lowers, but eliminated one of the parallel uppers. Squat values are still the same and the front stays centered. And as you know the buggy works pretty good...Just needs more power! ;)

--D

The only thing I would suggest if you go with a 4 link is make sure that you have enough space between the tires and coils/coil-overs. As you know with a 4 link your axle will swing side to side while articulating. I found out the hard way that the axle swings more than static testing shows. I thought I had all the clearance I needed, but I was only using jacks and hoists to check clearances. Then, once built, I moved the rig out and jacked the rear tire up 60+ inches using a fork-lift....Oppps. Major interference with the front inside tire(s) side wall and the coils. Also the drive-shaft swung into the header collector (with stock manifolds you might not have that problem).

That's when I decided to go with a front track-bar and 3-link. Still kept the triangulated lowers, but eliminated one of the parallel uppers. Squat values are still the same and the front stays centered. And as you know the buggy works pretty good...Just needs more power! ;)

--D

Just needs more power! ;)HP is a crutch.













A nice crutch :grinpimp:

HP is a crutch.
A nice crutch :grinpimp:

Yes. That seed has been planted. Is being cultivated. Is tenderizing into a nice southern brisket. Soon the buzzer will go off indicating that it's time to eat. Mixed with a nice Merlot, and followed by a smooth Cuban, will be just the recipe for my hp thirst.

Yes. That seed has been planted. Is being cultivated. Is tenderizing into a nice southern brisket. Soon the buzzer will go off indicating that it's time to eat. Mixed with a nice Merlot, and followed by a smooth Cuban, will be just the recipe for my hp thirst.

did you get your shifter figured out.. You would have made it over that climb if it was catching first...

did you get your shifter figured out.. You would have made it over that climb if it was catching first...

Maybe...We'll see at the Hammers! (sorry for the mini-highjack Darkstar!)

Spent some time cleaning old brackets off the frame... had to cut off the front boatside supports also, as they were terminating at the radius arm mounts. I couldn't find any pre-fab suspension brackets that will fit where I need mine to go, so I guess I will be making my own.
----
Although I won't be running the links off the crossmember, it looks like I'll have to make a new one anyway. This thing has taken one hit too many. The pic doesn't show just how bad it is--one more rock encounter and it would have folded up into the trans pan.

I recall seeing a real nice HD cross member for sale commercially somewhere (a few years ago). Maybe you can start with that and save some fitting & reinventing. After all, your fame width is one thing thats still stock(ish)

the plan (for now) is to just make a new one out of 1.75" tubing. I want to mount a belly skid, and that will make a descent attachment point. I took a glance down there, and it looks like I should be able to make it level with the bottom of the framerails without putting any bends in it...

Started working on the link mounts.
---------
Simulating the new 3" wheel spacers on the front axle (which haven't been cut yet). Need to keep the tires out of the links. Driving on to the trailer is going to be a problem.

whenever i make something like this, I'm reminded of what a bargain pre-fab brackets really are.

here are the upper mounts, axle end

Lookin good!

whenever i make something like this, I'm reminded of what a bargain pre-fab brackets really are.

here are the upper mounts, axle end


Do I see a Great Basin Rovers sticker in there? :flipoff2:

I knew someone would comment on that as soon as I saw the sticker on that parts can in the pic. I think that sticker is about 7 years old. It oulasted my GBR drivetrain parts :D

:barf:

So,

Your going to be running 40in tires on a rover housing with full hydro, AND 3in wheel spacers.

Remind me never to wheel with you. :flipoff2:

So,

Your going to be running 40in tires on a rover housing with full hydro, AND 3in wheel spacers.

Remind me never to wheel with you. :flipoff2:

That's the plan. Matt does it (minus the full hydro) on a rig with similar weight, and I don't abuse my vehicles nearly as much as he does.

It should be ok. If not, then I'll do something different. I'll need a project anyway :grinpimp:

I'll need a project anyway :grinpimp:Speaking of, how's your other "project" coming?

Other project is going great, having a blast :D

and now to bring this thread back from the dead... Took a little time out of the garage when my daughter was born, and then got sidetracked with this.. still needs a ram and plumbing but otherwise done.

and then I got off my ass and started working on the front suspension.

frame end upper mounts will go here... got one side mocked up.

Cut those damn Spring buckets off already!

Cut those damn Spring buckets off already!You mean his new bumpstop mounts? :D

don't quit your day job brad :flipoff2:

this steering cylinder you made is sweet, joke's kinda lame :flipoff2:

don't quit your day job brad :flipoff2:

this steering cylinder you made is sweet, joke's kinda lame :flipoff2:I get it. :smokin:

(For those who don't get it, my day job was hydraulics)

HOW BIG IS YOUR




SHAFT!!! :mr-t:

HOW BIG IS YOUR




SHAFT!!! :mr-t:Cyl specs:
2.5" bore X 8.5" stroke
1.5" rod

Not bad for a white guy :smokin:


Actually the basic specs don't quite tell the story here.

The barrel is 3/8" wall (so the grooved sections are still 1/4" wall) with Dura Bar heads.
The piston & rods are one piece; machined down from a single chunk of 3" 4140, then ground and plated with .002"/side industrial hard chrome.

Nothing exceeds like excess. :D

Shwing!!!

drool drool droool..... :eek:

finally finished the hydro bender project that's been distracting me from working on the car... thanks Brad for the cylinder and spool valve, and :flipoff2: Brad for painting them pink before giving them to me...

The color is kind of growing on me. think I'll leave it. :smokin:

The color is kind of growing on me. think I'll leave it. :smokin:

If you can make all the TOUGH lines, you can paint your whole rig that color !

If you don't mind me asking, how much did all the hydraulic do-dads set you back? Getting tired of running over to the race shop every time I need to bend something thicker than .188.

power pack was $150. hoses and fittings were $100. the cylinder and spool valve were part of a barter deal. the cart is made from metal I had lying around.

Not bad, have to start ordering the parts for the conversion.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did all the hydraulic do-dads set you back? Getting tired of running over to the race shop every time I need to bend something thicker than .188.2" X .188 is pushing the limits on a JD2.

dude you have 2 in the pink...

Tic toc tic toc :d

yeah yeah I know... I'll be getting back to it soon. I have a shop now where I'm keeping all my bolts, etc. that I sell. Its right by my work, which is nowhere near my house, so there's no way I'm going to be there every night like I was when I was doing this out of my garage. Instead, I'll be there two nights a week until midnight, and the rest of the time I'll be at home (or I'll never see my family). Then, on the nights when I'm home, I can work on the rig after everyone goes to sleep. I just have to grind quietly. :D

The garage has room to work, finally. I need to finish painting the mill, and that project will be done..Then I have to put a bunch of stuff away in two new drawer cabinets that I found on CL (remember the original point of this nuts & bolts business was so I would have a supply in my garage for my projects)..... I have a couple of other ones I want to do around the garage (run a couple more circuits to the south side, where I've moved all the sanders and grinders, plus run a hard airline over there) but they're not critical (extension cords and hose do work, even though they're ugly).

Finally got back to this a little bit... here are a few pics :flipoff2:

Couple more. see you in a year :shaking:

THE THREADS ALIVE!!! ALIIIIIIVE!! MOOWHAHAHA!!!


Dude sweet paint job on the mill!

The cool part is, now that project 2.0 has restarted, it'll be finished in a week. :smokin:

if only that were true anymore... i think those days are behind me... My lofty goal now is to just chip away at it a bit at a time.

if only that were true anymore... i think those days are behind me... My lofty goal now is to just chip away at it a bit at a time.Well then, welcome you to the world we all live in. :D




Except Lane, of course :flipoff2:

Well then, welcome you to the world we all live in. :D




Except Lane, of course :flipoff2:

I havent touched mine in a week.. :flipoff2: HA!

I havent touched mine in a week.. :flipoff2: HA!That wouldn't happen to be because you took it elsewhere to be worked on, would it? :flipoff2: HA! HA!

That wouldn't happen to be because you took it elsewhere to be worked on, would it? :flipoff2: HA! HA!

HAha maybe thats me getting old! haha! :flipoff2:

I havent touched mine in a week.. :flipoff2: HA!

Better get used to it... Married with a baby and all..

Alex is on a ROLL..

HAH! I've actually made a little more progress, just need to post up the pics. I got a cortizone shot in my low back today, hopefully in a couple of days working on this thing will become a little less "interesting"

Its starting to take shape a little bit.... Just wait until I drag the hood out of the shed, it may actually look like a car again.

couple more

NICE! Im diggin the lines!

X2! Keep it moving!

Jealous of your clamp collection.

Keep the momentum up!

looking good alex. :smokin: hopefully I can see it at the next rally...IF I can make it.

That nice rust-free bulkhead and you chopped it up!

For some reason, I have been able to fit time in to work on all of my rigs recently. OK,I made time to do it! :flipoff2: Now if I just had time to wheel one of them :D

Too Cool!

Keep it up man! I always really enjoy your build threads!

Thanks guys... I managed to sneak away for a couple hours today and do a bit of work on it... Here is a little more definition to the passenger compartment, and a chassis member that will serve as the top of the firewall.

haven't had much time recently, but I snuck out to the garage tonight for a bit. Mounted the pedal hanger assy/booster mount, and it was too wide. Shortened it, and the axle that the brake pedal pivots on. Ideally i should have used a lathe for that, but since I don't have one, or room for one, I made do with what I have. It fits now.

couple more

If I had to choose between a mill and lathe, I'd take the mill !

Nice work.
Any problems with chatter while using the endmill? Lot of shaft sticking out.

I noticed your PS pump is pretty high. What reservoir are you using?

Nice work.
Any problems with chatter while using the endmill? Lot of shaft sticking out.

I noticed your PS pump is pretty high. What reservoir are you using?

a bit, but not bad. I bolted the shaft to the bottom of the 123 block and tightened the crap out of it. I just wanted to flatten the mounting surface because I cut it off with a hand grinder, thinking it would be some sort of hardened steel (it wasnt). I could have come up with a stiffer way to hold it, but didn't feel like turning the world on its head to do it.

I have a PSC reservoir... The pump is mounted in the stock location, more or less.

I have a PSC reservoir... The pump is mounted in the stock location, more or less.It just appears high in the picture.
Looks like it'd be difficult to get the reservoir above it.

It just appears high in the picture.
Looks like it'd be difficult to get the reservoir above it.

I think it would be badass if he Dark could make his own reservior and tap it and literally screw it right to the top of the pump. You don't get an opportunity to do that just about ever because of space. The pump would never suck then no matter what angle.

I think it would be badass if he Dark could make his own reservior and tap it and literally screw it right to the top of the pump. You don't get an opportunity to do that just about ever because of space. The pump would never suck then no matter what angle.Or use the canned ham reservoir along with another reservoir (for the additional capacity)
side by side, with fluid connection at the bottom.
That would guaranty the pickup always being submerged.

Brad, if you're volunteering to redo the hydraulic pump, come on over on the long thanksgiving weekend and have at it :grinpimp: otherwise I have to keep moving, i'm doing this too slowly as it is without inventing new projects....

got steering wheel and orbital mounts.. looks like the hoses will come out of the right side of the orbital and go through the firewall through the hole used for the stock steering shaft, using the stock grommet.

Trying to figure out how to tidy up the floor and firewall... Still not 100% sure what I'm going to do here, but I know the existing rocker tube needs fixing. I was going to cut it off and put in a bend using mitre cuts (too much radius to use an actual bend and have it look good), but decided to get lazy, heat it with a torch, and beat the bend into it... :flipoff2:

a bit, but not bad. I bolted the shaft to the bottom of the 123 block and tightened the crap out of it. I just wanted to flatten the mounting surface because I cut it off with a hand grinder, thinking it would be some sort of hardened steel (it wasnt). I could have come up with a stiffer way to hold it, but didn't feel like turning the world on its head to do it.

I have a PSC reservoir... The pump is mounted in the stock location, more or less.

It shows you are not a machinist! clamp the shaft horizontally in the vise and face the end with the side of the endmill. Or put the shaft vertical in a vee block with minimal stick out.

not a machinist, just an amateur. and probably not even a good one at that. thanks for the suggestion, that makes a lot of sense.

If I had to choose between a mill and lathe, I'd take the mill !

I'm not sure, having had a lathe for the last 30 years,

with a drill press and a lathe and there are an awful lot of things one can make.

moarr, awesome build!

If you have put a vise on the slide apron of a lathe you can mill a lot of stuff on the lathe with a tool in the chuck. i havent done this in ten years though cuz I have a couple of Haas 5 axis millings and an 8 axis nakamura lathe. Gotta love being able to use 1.5 million dollars of technology to make stuff for my Rover on a Saturday morning when the shop is closed.

Ohh where o where could thine alex be!! Ohh where o where could he beee!

Nice work! do you know where you can buy Front difflock??

new baby will be here in a matter of a few days. I've been working on the car a bit here and there, but no real progress. I'm going to try to have it buttoned up by spring if the creek don't rise.

Ttt

BUMPITY BUMP BUMP!
Come on Lane helps a guy out here I can't do all the hard work..

so.... bumping a thread is hard work?


:D

:D BUMP _ Baby was jsut born! congrats!!!

:D BUMP _ Baby was jsut born! congrats!!!

I'll finish a truck before Alex now:flipoff2:

Congrats.
Hope all is good.



Now plan a little better next time. :D
February is a great month for having babies in Chicago.
What else is there to do?

OK, back from the dead. two children in three years = not much time to work on the car...

We'll see how long this lasts.

Mocked up the front 4-link. Looks like there may actually be room for a stock-ish y-pipe there, too. Making a custom exhaust is not something I was wanting to do anyway...

I didn't want to put the link brackets under the frame, but couldn't really figure a way around it. so under the frame they will go.


http://asmc.net/pics/d/13844-2/IMG_3853.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13842-1/IMG_3853.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13850-2/IMG_3854.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13848-1/IMG_3854.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13855-2/IMG_3855.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13853-1/IMG_3855.JPG)
http://asmc.net/pics/d/13860-2/IMG_3856.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13858-1/IMG_3856.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13865-2/IMG_3857.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13863-1/IMG_3857.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13870-2/IMG_3858.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13868-1/IMG_3858.JPG)

Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :d

It


is



ALIVE

do you remember how to weld... :flipoff2:

you gonna make it to co in august? thats gonna be my axles virgin tour..

you gonna make it to co in august? thats gonna be my axles virgin tour..

You gonna "pop" those ...



Sorry couldn't resist

do you remember how to weld... :flipoff2:

are you kidding? I haven't put down more than an inch of bead in months. totally forgot everything i ever knew.

I tightened up the mockup of the lowers-- ground and positioned both tabs for the driver's side, and have two problems:

1. Can't get the bolt into the pass axle side bracket--knew this would happen, so I plan to grind the bracket next to it so a bolt can be jammed in there--not a big deal.

2. The axle housing, where it gets wider, near the diff is in the way of the far pass side bracket, and the johnny joint itself. That I didn't count on.

I could move everything over to the left an inch or two, and have the lowers mount to the axle off center, or I could clearance the axle. Nothing but dead space there. I may even be able to get enough room by attacking it with a big hammer... but I will probably have to cut a chunk out of it and weld in some angle. Any thoughts on how to handle this?

are you kidding? I haven't put down more than an inch of bead in months. totally forgot everything i ever knew.

Bah, it's just like riding a bicycle.:flipoff2:

Turn on some Dead or Diga Rhythm band and get to pushing bead, wasting wire and passin' gas!

I could move everything over to the left an inch or two, and have the lowers mount to the axle off center, or I could clearance the axle. Nothing but dead space there. I may even be able to get enough room by attacking it with a big hammer... but I will probably have to cut a chunk out of it and weld in some angle. Any thoughts on how to handle this?Welcome to my world.
I'm trying to fit upper and lower RA brackets AND brackets for two shocks, all in a 5" area.

Anyway
I'm not sure of the negatives in offsetting the lower mounts. With a low speed crawler, I can't imagine any real problems with that. Articulation would be different, side to side, but that's not really a big deal at slow speeds.

I tightened up the mockup of the lowers-- ground and positioned both tabs for the driver's side, and have two problems:

1. Can't get the bolt into the pass axle side bracket--knew this would happen, so I plan to grind the bracket next to it so a bolt can be jammed in there--not a big deal.

2. The axle housing, where it gets wider, near the diff is in the way of the far pass side bracket, and the johnny joint itself. That I didn't count on.

I could move everything over to the left an inch or two, and have the lowers mount to the axle off center, or I could clearance the axle. Nothing but dead space there. I may even be able to get enough room by attacking it with a big hammer... but I will probably have to cut a chunk out of it and weld in some angle. Any thoughts on how to handle this?

If you can Y link the front, even an off-center Y mount will still articulate the axle normally. And it is a very nice setup in my experience.

Nice to see you back bud!

If you can Y link the front, even an off-center Y mount will still articulate the axle normally. And it is a very nice setup in my experience.

Nice to see you back bud!By a "Y" link, do you mean a front wishbone or a longarm radius arm setup?

meh, i'm determined to make the 4 link fit. it will fit. i just hope it works well.

meh, i'm determined to make the 4 link fit. it will fit. i just hope it works well.It better. You've had three years to get it right. :D

It better. You've had three years to get it right. :D

Even I got a truck running and wheeling in less time:flipoff2:

yeah, but i had two kids in those three years. well, my wife did, but i had at least a little bit to do with it.

yeah, but i had two kids in those three years. well, my wife did, but i had at least a little bit to do with it.

Excuses, excuses, excuses.

IM having another in Oct..

Congrats Lane. Fun, isn't it?

OK, got it to fit. Mounted the lowers about two inches left of center (you can see the axle centerline drawn in sharpie in a couple of the pics). I'm going to make the pass side arm a bit longer than the driver's side, so i can put the frame mounts in the same location.

http://asmc.net/pics/d/13875-2/IMG_3882.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13873-1/IMG_3882.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13880-2/IMG_3883.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13878-1/IMG_3883.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13885-2/IMG_3884.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13883-1/IMG_3884.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13890-2/IMG_3885.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13888-1/IMG_3885.JPG)

Congrats Lane. Fun, isn't it?

OK, got it to fit. Mounted the lowers about two inches left of center (you can see the axle centerline drawn in sharpie in a couple of the pics). I'm going to make the pass side arm a bit longer than the driver's side, so i can put the frame mounts in the same location.

http://asmc.net/pics/d/13875-2/IMG_3882.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13873-1/IMG_3882.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13880-2/IMG_3883.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13878-1/IMG_3883.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13885-2/IMG_3884.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13883-1/IMG_3884.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/13890-2/IMG_3885.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/13888-1/IMG_3885.JPG)

Could have centered it with the Y link.

I'm just sayin.

:flipoff2:

i could have, but then i'd have nightmares of looking in the mirror and seeing lane look back at me. :flipoff2:

i could have, but then i'd have nightmares of looking in the mirror and seeing lane look back at me. :flipoff2:

I understand. I caught him watching me sleep at KOH this year. I have never been the same. :laughing:

I understand. I caught him watching me sleep at KOH this year. I have never been the same. :laughing:

IM always waching like Elmo on katy perrys tits..

Believe it or not, this IS still happening. about a month ago I rented a 2000 SF shop to consolidate my business plus my workshop which is at the house garage. Wifey is sick of parking in the driveway under the big oak tree, having her fancy car pelted with acorns. Anyway, this sunday is the day I move everything out of the garage. Got a Biljax trailer rented to move all my heavy shit. including the "project" here. Which has to be a roller.

Deadline.

So, I've been working on it a little in anticipation of this day (even evidenced by fresh welding smoke in the ipcs). Now I have two days to get it to a roller.

Front 4 link is done. Looks like it will work OK. I had orignally planned to mount the shocks on the outside of the link towers, but they don't fit. So I'll mount them to the front of the link towers a couple of inches in front of the axle. How they will work there I have no idea, but that's the only place they can go without scrapping the work I've done so far and starting over. hopefully this won't have to happen, but ya never know. I just need another chassis member behind the radiator to mount the top end of the shocks to, and it should roll. Then it will probably sit for a couple of months while I take a really long nap. Moving sucks.

http://asmc.net/pics/d/15150-2/IMG_4708.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/15148-1/IMG_4708.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/15155-2/IMG_4709.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/15153-1/IMG_4709.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/15160-2/IMG_4710.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/15158-1/IMG_4710.JPG)http://asmc.net/pics/d/15165-2/IMG_4711.JPG (http://asmc.net/pics/d/15163-1/IMG_4711.JPG)

It shouldn't be hard to move, there isn't much of it left now. :flipoff2:

Cool, that location should work fine, although I'm sure there are plenty here who can tell you, in great detail, why it'll fold up like a taco and kill anyone who has ever looked at it.

When are ya gonna ditch the early 1960's and put a real motor in that thing ? ?

When are ya gonna ditch the early 1960's and put a real motor in that thing ? ?

i like the buick v8. its cute.

i like the buick v8. its cute.

Elegant! It's an elegant engine.

Neat, precise, simple.

i like the buick v8. its cute.

know how I know you're gay?

:flipoff2:

got it to a roller yesterday. no time for pics now, but I will take some after i get it to its new home.

the coilovers want to be in the same space as the upper ears on the radiator, so i took the rad out. i'll have to decide if i want to retain and modify the stock radiator, or have a custom one made. is there a market for recored disco 1 rads?

got it to a roller yesterday. no time for pics now, but I will take some after i get it to its new home.

the coilovers want to be in the same space as the upper ears on the radiator, so i took the rad out. i'll have to decide if i want to retain and modify the stock radiator, or have a custom one made. is there a market for recored disco 1 rads?

Why not just tilt the coilovers backwards a bit? They work better that way anyhow.

Why not just tilt the coilovers backwards a bit? They work better that way anyhow.

Can't. Remember the bottom mounts of the shocks are mounted to the front of the upper link towers. As it is the spring rubs the tower a bit. If anything I have to get them closer to perfectly vertical, or make the lower tabs a bit longer. or or or maybe grind a bit off the towers. we'll see.