i swaped a 84 6.2 into a jeep what wires besides the glow plug do i need to make it run right

You need power to the fuel cut-off relay that sits on the top front of the engine by the IP. This is what actually turns the engine off since there is no ignition system. If I am thinking correctly this is the only electrical power you need once the engine is running.

Modifying the glow plugs to manual control (just a push button) would probably be the easiest to do.

You really don't have to have them, but there is a cold start feature that slightly advances the timing and raises the idle speed. This makes cold starts much easier.

what he said above.
Power to the injector pump is the only thing needed for it to run once started.

how does the cold start timing work

There are to extra spades on the injector pump for the high idle solenoid and cold ....something..... solenoid. Add keyed power to these and they will turn on and off when needed automatically. I think on mine I wired the main power wire going to the injector cut off also the the extra 2 spades.

the Glow plug relay that sits at the rear of the intake manifold is what controls the fast idle and the glowplugs timing etc, this relay is prone to failure, and thus most guys just wire the glow plugs up to a relay or Starter solonoid, that is controled by a push button on the dash. thus problems solved, the glow plugs wiring (green) come together and turn into a (red) (i think) and bolt to the stud on the Glow plug relay, the other stud on the relay is hot at all times, thus it is getting its power straight from either the battery or the Lug on the starter. the series of 4 wires in the flat plug on the glow plug relay are the controling wires, mine was an 85 J code thus it had the big sardine can on the firewall style fuel filter/heater/ WIF. the flat 4 connector, some of the wires go up to that filter housing, (or in 80-83 the hot dog style fuel heater under the intake) and some of the other wires go to the firewall wiring harness block and ultimately end up in the dash or steering column. the only one you really need to worry about is the big heavy gauge pink one that clips to the top spade connector on the injection pump, this is the 12volt solonoid that controls the fuel in the pump,, if 12 volts is applied to this tab, then you have ignition,,, if not... no fire,, thus when priming your fuel system, unplug this tab for several revolutions, then plug it back on... keeps you from running your pump dry in priming, your best bet is to look at the old Chevy wiring harness off the donor truck and trace wires back.. I just pulled my 6.2 out and installed a 2001 24v Cummins, thus my wiring has been stripped and traced,,, also verified via the original factory wiring diagrams. So if you have any other ?s conceringing this beast, holler,,, such as alternator wiring.....