Well, I think I'm just about finished with the front. Put the finishing touches on it this last weekend. Welded on a bar to protected the steering ram. Welded a 1/2" plate to the diff guard, and tied it into the ram mount. Been driving it around, in a parade.:flipoff2: Actually, have been putting some miles on it, handles well. Can drive it one handed now and not be all over the road.

Very nice.:smokin:

We'll tried it out on the 'Con last weekend. Did very well. Felt very stable, even side hilling. Still a lot of snow up there though. Did manage to blow both passenger side tires off the rims at the same time though. Here's a short video link. http://sharing.theflip.com/session/bdfb8148bef8d33b5740d9789205ac6b/video/14524353 If you look closely, had problems with the same spot. Going in, and coming out. Kept sliding off. It's actually a dirt road under all that snow. Where the pavement ends before you get to the second dam at Loon Lake.

You needz sum beadlocks :flipoff2:

You needz sum beadlocks :flipoff2:

Have em. :flipoff2: Just not on my 37"s. Picked up a new toy last week. A tire groover. I didn't take any picks of it, but I installed 3 walbro pickups into the fuel cell. I have a summit 20 gallon fuel cell with a sump pickup. The sump is on the passenger side and when I had anything less than half a tank of fuel, and leaned to the drivers side I would run out of gas. I put one in each rear corner and one centered in the front on the cell. Seems to work well so far.

I thought that looked awfully close to Loone, I saw the pix on the club site before I came here. So how far did you guys make it?

Just went to the top of the slabs.

I love your truck. But I'm curious, when flexed all the way how stuffed to the lowers get to the frame?

I love your truck. But I'm curious, when flexed all the way how stuffed to the lowers get to the frame?

The lower links? They don't don't get close at all. The upper link gets closer, but is still a few inches away from the frame. The trackbar, at full compression is about an inch from the frame on the axle end. The up travel is only 4 1/2"s. I'll try to get some measurement's next time I have it flexed up.

Wheeled the Rubicon this weekend. It did great. It went everywhere I pointed it. The new steering was fantastic. The suspension worked flawless. I did notice that I lost some side hill stabilty over the leaves, but it still side hilled great though. Not to many pics though, as I was leading our group in to Buck Island and back. Second pic, two jeeps in tow (back jeep is on the cable, hard to see)

I had been asked a few questions on the heater that I had used. I gutted all the old heater stuff and went with a Heatercraft model 201HOR. Here's a link to it.http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=201HOR It comes with two 2 1/2" ports. I needed one 2 1/2" port and two 2" ports so I cut the port for the defroster ducting out of the old heater box and screwed it onto the new heater. I then ran some flex tubing to each of the defroster ports and to the new vent box. I looked on heatercrafts website and I can't fix the vent box on it anymore. Plug, I would probably run a second heater in the back for the kids. It heats up the half cab very well. Snug fit in the glove box, but it all fits. With the original heater and fenderwells removed, I built a new battery box and hung it from the firewall.

With the top off, I noticed that the windshield frame would flex back when I would tighten down the bikini top. I bent and drilled a couple of pieces of flat stock and tied it to the cage. I found that YJ sunvisors work well in the scout. I drilled and tap'd the cage and bolted them on.

thanks for the pics and info

So I've been having some issues with the holley projection lately. It would go lean between 1000 and 2000 rpm and if I would richen it up, it would go way rich at idle and above 2000 rpm. I got tired of screwing with it and ordered up a Howell tbi unit. I gave them my engine specs, and they tailored the computer for it. Changed it all out last night, and it seems to be running great now. Going out tomorrow night for some night wheeling. We'll see how it does. Also changed out the plugs for the correct ones. Seems that I should have read the directions when I installed the heads last year. Have been running to short of plugs for these head. (edelbrock performer aluminum's) Had to find a place to mount the new computer, so I lowered the heater down a few inches, and mounted the computer above it. Still plenty of leg room with it moved down.

Super clean build, makes me wanna get a IH.

Wheeled last weekend. Niagara Rim. Everything worked great. Uses a lot less fuel with the new injection. Very happy with the results.

Yet again...

Looks great and glad to see it working so well for you.

Remind me, what engine / tranny / t case?

Chevy. 350,th350,np203/205.

Awesome.

Got some new "bling" for the scout. New aluminum beadlock rings. The steel rings were pretty tore up. Going to try out these and see how they hold up. Figured I'd take somes pics as there only going to look this good once. Also installed a new master cylinder. Already had a chevy truck master cylinder in it, so the corvette one was I used this time was a direct swap. Weighed the old girl again. She's packing on the pounds again. Last time she weighed 5160#s with the doors on. No doors this time, 5320#s. First time I didn' have a heater or the onboard welder in it. Plus it had aluminum wheels on it then and was on leaf springs.

keeps getting better every time I see it.

There are a couple 80's and 800's on here that I have been drawing inspiration from for my Scout and yours is definitely one I keep looking to.


Thank you!:beer:

There are a couple 80's and 800's on here that I have been drawing inspiration from for my Scout and yours is definitely one I keep looking to.

Thank you!:beer:

Me too! Great looking rig, can't wait to see it in person. Keep it up.

Still an awesome rig. One of my favorite 800s of all time.

what light is that by the MC?

Thanks guys. Plug, the light is a vision x l.e.d.

Doug,

how long are your lower front links?

Doug,

how long are your lower front links?

Plug, they are 28"s long. Since I'm running a "missing link" front, the one upper link is 27" long. Vertical seperation on the frame mount is 2 3/4"s. Vertical seperation on the axle mount is 7"s.

Doug great build! Nice meeting you today. Like the way you dropped the front 2". Hope the tires work out great for you....

Nice meeting you too Brent. Put the tires on. They just clear the links when turning. No rubbing.:D I might have to trim my bumper back some more though. She's wide though. 92"s on the front. Thanks again. Definitely would like to see pics of your Bronco as you build it.

Thats great news! Looks good and I'll be starting a post once I get deep into it. Thanks again!!!

Sooo, after running the con, I now have 4 of my 5 swampers that have side wall cuts. Two of them I can see cords. Went to order up two new ones, and found out that Interco will not be making my size until jan or feb of next year. While looking for some used ones, I came across an ad for some baja claws with wheels for a real good price. 38.5x16x16. Boy are they wide. Mounted them on the scout and they just clear my links. But, when flexed and turned they would hit the front part of the front fenders. Took some more off the front fenders, tires clear the fenders but hit the down tubes of the front hoop. It will be fine though. I also decided to move the winch back and down. Now all that sticks past the bumper is the roller fairlead. I my end up going to a hawse fairlead to suck it up even closer to the bumper.

I still have my swampers and bead locks for when I run narrower trails.:D With the swampers I was 86.5"s up front. Now with the claws, I'm 92"s.

Also cut and bent the ends of the front bumper up to help clear the tires. Also added some of the grill back to fill in around the winch. Oh, and I know that my tires are backwards. :flipoff2: I heard they grab the rocks better this way, we'll see.

I like the way you recessed the winch.

Good to see you losing more sheet metal. I don't feel so bad now:flipoff2:

Do you have any pics of your hood pin mounts?

I like the way you recessed the winch.

Good to see you losing more sheet metal. I don't feel so bad now:flipoff2:

Do you have any pics of your hood pin mounts?

I'll try and get some for you tomorrow. Your hood came out nice.

I like the cut into the nose. Did you put any reinforcement on the edges?

I like the cut into the nose. Did you put any reinforcement on the edges?

Hey Dan, good to see progress on yours. No reinforcement yet. After my hammers trip this coming nov, I'm going to pull the dents and repaint it. I'll add support to the grill then. I also want to roll some small round stock to follow the fender cuts and add support to it too. idscout, my hood pins are welded to a tab on the front hoop. Pics of the pieces I added back to the grill, and the reworked ends on the front bumper.

Those tires work great on the snow:smokin:

Added to my not so "ninja" bars. Nailed the top of the bedside last year at the hammers with the rails on. Figured I'd add some more tubing to keep the sides off the rocks. I'm not a fan of exo's, but it saves the body, and these are removable. I usually only put them on for the hammers.

cool

Painted version.

I like the removalable part. I started on mine today and got a bit done.
At least your ready for the hammers:smokin:

Took it out last sat. Tires did good. first clip is of me, second clip is a fellow members tj on the waterfall. I made it up, he didn't. (He was on 40's) I don't know if anybody got me on video climbing it. I know there's pics somewhere, I'll post those up when I get them.
YouTube - Doug at Cow Play Area (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Llhpf6zPcnQ)
YouTube - Richard on the waterfall (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4cugUA5niA)

Video of me on the waterfall.
YouTube - IMG 3823 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhltPBQte1Y&feature=mfu_in_order&playnext=1&videos=CX7sbz1BM3Q)
YouTube - IMG 3825 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTVqxmkqFHE&feature=mfu_in_order&playnext=1&videos=GfP51keQm94)

I fuckin hate you, BAD ASS truck and you even get to wheel it. Man I get a woody looking at your Scout ~reminds me of Rusty~ Seriously Sweet Scout:flipoff2:

~reminds me of Rusty~ :laughing: I get a laugh out of that everytime I see it. Thanks, JetFxr. Pretty cool what your doing with the hand controlled scout. Wish I was closer so I could lend a hand.

hey doug what is your belly or frame height?

also, are you still only running 4.5 inch of up travel on the front c/o's?

hey doug what is your belly or frame height?

also, are you still only running 4.5 inch of up travel on the front c/o's?

I think my frame height is at 22"s. Belly, maybe 21?. I'll check the numbers tonight. Don't remember the c/o's.

wow, thats pretty low.

a few pages back you stated the c/o's were at 4.5, just wondering if you ever changed them

I haven't changed them, but everythings "settled" now. I'll see where they are at now.

On the 38"s, that actually measure 37"s, the bottom of the frame is at 22 1/4"s. The bottom of the skid plate is at 20"s. I have 5"s of shaft showing on the c/o's. With the air bumps set where I have them, I have 4 1/2"s of up travel. THe top of the half cab is at @ 81"s. I built new body mounts that raises the body 2"s higher than the original mounts. Wheelbase is at 104.5"s. Hope that helps.

thanks a lot.

edit: nevermind, I found a pic i needed.

what are your rockers at Doug?

edit: nevermind, I found a pic i needed.

what are your rockers at Doug?

Bottom of rockers are at 28.75"s. Bottom of front part of frame is at 31.25"s. The height of the door opening is at 34"s. This is all at street pressure. Everythings 2-3 inches lower at trail pressure. If your ever over this way, your more than welcome to take a look how I fit everything in there.

how long are the lower front links?

Plug, they are 28"s long. Since I'm running a "missing link" front, the one upper link is 27" long. Vertical seperation on the frame mount is 2 3/4"s. Vertical seperation on the axle mount is 7"s.Here it is again:D

sorry, Im an idiot. i thought i had asked that already, but couldnt find it, so wrote it off as one of those things I had thought to do, but never got around to.

No worries, doen't hesitate to ask any questions. Glad to help out.

So everybody likes pics, but video's better. Video of the Hammers back in Nov.
YouTube - Spooner Canyon, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVA6lAG5eqg)
YouTube - Spooner Canyon, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muHQFEr7Aps)
YouTube - Spooner Canyon, Hammers[/url]
YouTube - Sunbonnet Trail, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=202yDUDyTlM&feature=related)
YouTube - Outer Limits, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXQiQEXUltA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL)
YouTube - Outer Limits, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbuKDh9rRTw&feature=autoplay&list=ULbaHkHlEsIWY&index=13&playnext=1)
YouTube - Outer Limits, Hammers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-12x1E9_C8s&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL)

Once again,

You get my vote for nicest trail Scout driven by someone with the "Will to Wheel". :beer:

Once again,

You get my vote for nicest trail Scout driven by someone with the "Will to Wheel". :beer:

X2 I was on the Rubicon with Doug in September and his rig does really well and turns A lot of heads.

Some new goodies came in. Finally going to twin stick the 205. When I got the ORD doubler there was no tripple stick option. Figured if I was going to swap transmissions, now was the time to do it. Had my spare th350 rebuilt, full race prepped, reverse manual valve body. It will get installed next weekend.

Did Eric do that tranny for you?

No, I had Norcal transmission in rohnert park do it. I've used them to do the transmissions in mine and Nicks work trucks and they have done good work so far.

Couple of pics from '05. Good look of the underbelly. Transmission and tcases coming out tonight.

Figured out how to scan photo's finally. These pics are from '03. Only the second run I had made in the scout. Sprung over on stock springs, chevy 12bolt rear, J20 front 44, lockrites F/R, 305 with a two barrel, th350, np203 and 33's. It's come a little way since then.:D

I HATE Hollister mud. Brings back a lot of memories from when I lived in the Bay Area...

I HATE Hollister mud. Brings back a lot of memories from when I lived in the Bay Area...

It's really fun when your changing a driveshaft out in it.:D

More pics from '03. Scout now upgraded to 350 w/holley truck avenger, same th350 but with 203/205 behind it. Chevy 47" springs up front, and 35"s, plus some fender trimming.

Eight years later....
584302
584303
Kind of miss the original version.

the original looks like mine.........I'll trade ya!

Nice changes, Looks Great!

So everybody likes pics, but video's better.

That buggy sounds like a wookie in labor:laughing:

the original looks like mine.........I'll trade ya!

Odd, me too:eek:

Got everything out tonight. Swapped pans on the transmissions. The B&M one is sure alot bigger. Split the tcases apart and got the 203 resealed. Need to pic up one seal for it though tomorrow. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the 205 twin sticked and resealed, and have everything put back together. I know there's been discussions here later lately on doublers, if anyone wants pics of certain things, let me know, and I can take more pics before it goes back together.

Almost 12 hours...

I expected to see pics from the Hammers by now.:flipoff2:

Almost 12 hours...

I expected to see pics from the Hammers by now.:flipoff2:

I know, getting slower in my old age.

Transmission and tcases back in. Tore the 205 competely apart and checked the bearings and resealed and twin sticked it. Had a stripped hole on the engine and one on the trans. Helicoiled them both. Ran into my first problem with the new twin stick. One of the shifter brackets for the rear output is hitting the tub. I'm done for today. I'll figure it out tomorrow. I also think that I'm going to run into problems with one of the shifters wanting to occupy the same space as my transmission shifter. We'll see tomorrow.

Doug what are you going to do with your old tranny? The reason I ask I have an opportunity to buy my old green truck back but it has a blown tranny.

Hey Doug, Can you adj. the shift lever front and back to buy some space? Looking good, and how bad did they get you on the trans?

Doug what are you going to do with your old tranny? The reason I ask I have an opportunity to buy my old green truck back but it has a blown tranny.

Hey Matt, I'm going to keeping it for a spare.

Hey Doug, Can you adj. the shift lever front and back to buy some space? Looking good, and how bad did they get you on the trans?

Hey Dan, going to try moving it around and see if I can get the clearance I need. If not, may have to do some cutting and bending. Trans was $908 including the converter. They used all the good parts that they put in the transmissions they build for drag racing. It also has an antiballooning converter. I supplied the reverse manual valve body to them. @ $265 through summit.

It's alive again!!! Transmission shifts great. Very solid hitting. I keep forgetting it's now reverse pattern, that's kind of messing with me. The new tripple stick is pretty sweet too. Nice to be able to kick the front or rear out when I want to. So, I ended up bending the bracket down that was hitting the tub and use a spacer. Heated and bent the new third stick so it clears the transmission shifter. Need to find a tripple stick shifter boot now. I have a single boot, but it won't work since I bent the shifter. Just need to install the skidplates and work on the boots.

heres a good place to get a triple stick shift boot. they are pretty clean. i like em.
http://jbfab.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=Boots

heres a good place to get a triple stick shift boot. they are pretty clean. i like em.
http://jbfab.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=Boots

Those look pretty good. I made mine work for now though. While digging through my spare 205's, I found one that had a 32 spline front output. That will be going in the scout in a couple of weeks to replace the 10 spline front output that's in it now. Also got some new "street" tires. They handle very well on the road. Swapped out the baja claws, as I had cut one at the hammers, and after months of searching, I can not find one to replace it. (they are discontinued). New tires-BFG KMII's. 365-75-16. Measure out right at 37"s x 14.50. Still have the swampers on the beadlocks for the nastier trails.

New skins on the weld wheels eh?

New skins on the weld wheels eh?

You don't happen to have another baja claw would you? How's the Bronco coming along?

Here's some...

So, have a trip planned for moab the second week of june. I wanted to be able to suck the front end down on the steep climbs, and came up with this. I had an old roller fairlead that I cut apart and installed the rollers on the backside of the winch, so I can run the winch line straight down and suck the front end down. I also got the 32 spline front output in and swapped the bfg's onto my beadlocks.

For those of you webwheelers, here's what a Scout looks like when it's actually wheeling. :flipoff2: Pics from Hollister last weekend.

Pics from the ravine. Blew both drivers side tires off the beads when I fell into the ravine. Had to winch it over so I could reseat both tires. Beadlocks are now on.

Some flex shots. Tires are still getting into the front fenders and I've trimmed alot off already.

And my favorite pic.

great pics.


do you hit your rear lowers much? I was looking at mounting mine out there, but started thinking they would be like a ramp.

great pics.


do you hit your rear lowers much? I was looking at mounting mine out there, but started thinking they would be like a ramp.


I do hit them sometimes, but they act as a ramp. (in a good way) I just drag on them until I can get the tire on what every I'm climbing. It's a smooth transition from the frame to the links.

:DSo, it was brought to my attencion that my scout made it into fourwheeler magazine. It's appears that it's in the june issue, but all that's out right now around here are the may issues. (this pic came off their website) It helps getting in, when you pull out one of the magazine journalists when they're broken. Pulled his toyota with a broken rearend out, from above winch hill 3 to the top of winch 5. (fordyce trail-Sierra Trek)
I don't think the bottom four pics made it into the mag. Nobody wants to be seen being towed behind a scout.:D

right on!

I don't think the bottom four pics made it into the mag. Nobody wants to be seen being towed behind a scout.:D

I bet he preferred your Scout over a jeep.......
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g149/prospectorc4/jeepeater.jpg

I've had the mag for a week now, just got to looking at it. Got all excited I could post up you were in, and you already know:(:laughing:

FWIW it's the first pic. LMK if you can't find an issue and I'll scan it up tomorrow. It's the June issue with the green blazer on the cover

You don't happen to have another baja claw would you? How's the Bronco coming along?

No sorry. Hey great pics! Bronco is a very slow process. The house project is trumping my build for the next 6 months or so. I can't wait to get it back in gear. On the bead-lock note I love my Hutchinson's...

I was wondering if you had any close up pictures of how you bolt your rear exo cage into the main cage? After flopping my Scout this weekend I am looking for ideas.

I was wondering if you had any close up pictures of how you bolt your rear exo cage into the main cage? After flopping my Scout this weekend I am looking for ideas.

new thread???????

For the upper mounts, I just cut some tubing in half and welded flat plates to them to clamp to the cage. The lower mounts, I drilled and tapped the rocker and bumper and bolted it up there. It's helped alot, but have still gotten rocks into the side.

Looks good! Thanks for posting the pics.

Thanks, Dan. Anymore progress of yours? Heading over to Shellville this weekend to help a buddy try and finish up his buggy before we head to the Hammers on the 12th of Nov.

who's chassis is this?:eek:

on page 2 there is a long travel tube chassis

who's chassis is this?:eek:

It's my buddies rig. BigRockJeep here on this board. I believe the frame is from a fj60. He bought it from his old boss and pulled the 4 cyl cummins out and put the chevy engine/trans in along with redoing almost all the tube work.

I'm just curious, because I'm trying to figure out what leaf spring combo (front and rear) I need to run to make my scout sit level. What leaf springs did you run before you linked your scout up? I read you had 47" chevy's for the front? But what about the rear? Thanks in advance, and sweet build! Loved every page.

Front springs were 4" lift skyjacker soft rides for '73-'87 chevy pickup front springs, with the bottom, short leaf removed. The rears were 52" stock chevy rear springs, but I had added extra leaves from a rear cj7 spring pack. I think there were 7 leaves total in the rear packs by the time I was done with no overload spring.

how was moab Doug?

how was moab Doug?

Had a great time Matt. Rick flopped on his side, (no surprise there) Richard in the red tj on 40's had the most problems. Broke something everyday he ran (he only ran four days) and had the most tows.
YouTube - ‪VIDEO0055‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCvceO4fUfM)
YouTube - ‪VIDEO0056‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=St7W91Mb5UM&feature=related)
YouTube - ‪VIDEO0066‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVv8rWXHEZo&feature=related)
YouTube - ‪VIDEO0028‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMpg1_xbf8Y&feature=related)
YouTube - ‪VIDEO0054‬‏ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ChB5qIbYBY&feature=related)

great vids,

gawd I wanna go wheeling.

great vids,

gawd I wanna go wheeling.

Well then get your shiz done or show me how to drive my junk so I dont flop it so often.

Id like to do both.

So last night I did this.

And today have been putting this together. Chevy 383 375hp, 420tq.

And found a good use for a jeep.

Hanging weight-495lbs. Complete, minus distributor cap/coil, wires, and air filter. Ready to drop in.

Hanging weight-495lbs. Complete, minus distributor cap/coil, wires, and air filter. Ready to drop in.

:smokin:

Well it's running again. Fired right up. Broke the cam in, but the timing is off some. I left my timing light at home, so I'll time it tomorrow. Only pisser so far, is one of the freeze plugs is leaking water. Luckily it's the easiest one to get to. I'll have to try and find a new one tomorrow. Still need to send the chip off to get reprogrammed with the new engine/cam specs. Hopefully should have it all dialed in for the Rubicon run.

Weighted the pinched hood. 59lbs, be nice to have a fiberglass, or better yet, plastic one that's pinched 10"s. :D

Weighted the pinched hood. 59lbs, be nice to have a fiberglass, or better yet, plastic one that's pinched 10"s. :D

Sha.:D

Been getting the engine dialed in a little better. Howell efi is going to burn me a new chip for it. Did manage to break second gear though.:mad3: Pulling the transmission out tonight.:mad3: I probably only have 200 miles on the new trans.

Talked with my transmission guy. He is pretty positive that I broke the second gear sprag. Said it's not uncommon to happen. It's a hardened sprag that can shatter sometimes with the hard shift from the manual valvebody. I did find an upgraded intermediate drum from tci that takes it from 12 sprag to a 36 sprag. Three times the holding power. Figured I would upgrade it, as I don't want to break it again. Ordered it from summit. @380$, it's only money right? :mad3: Pulling transmission tonight, and should have it back in a couple of days.

come on, breaking sucks, but it has to put a smile on your face?????

come on, breaking sucks, but it has to put a smile on your face?????

Not when I spent the money just a few months ago to get what I thought would be a pretty stout transmission. I guess on the bright side, it wasn't on the trail and only 200 feet from the shop doors. Find the weak links now, right? This new sprag I ordered should fix the weak link, or so I have been told. So, some more weights for you. 203/205 doubler, minus the shifters. 240lbs.

TH350 w/converter and deep aluminum pan. 170lbs. Off to the transmission shop tomorrow with it.

Pulled the pan to change out a leaky pan gasket. Love buying a complete remanned crate engine, then fixing the leaks. Leaking freeze plug, and pan gasket. In my opinion, these perma-dry pan gaskets are the only way to go. Was also under the impression that all their crate 383's were 4 bolt mains. Nope.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=612956&stc=1&d=1312752272

Price plus shipping to 833...... Oh wait, damn:(


Where did you get the crate motor from?

Crate motor came from West Coast Engines out of Reno. I think the're just a dealer though, as the engine was from Motor Works out of Spokane. I would buy from them again though. Engine runs great, just a couple samll problems. Tom at west coust was very helpful with all my questions I had. I didn't bother calling about the leaks as it was just easier for me to fix them. The price for mine was $1950, with a 5 year, 50,000 mile warranty. The normal price is $2150, but I didn't need their intake, so they took $200 off the price.

Just dropped the transmission off at the trans shop. While pulling it out of the truck I noticed that I also have a twisted rear output shaft. Sweet. Now I am on the hunt for a hardened output. Got to love more power.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/hardened_shafts_and_drums.htm

I did not see a 300 M for the TH350, but they list a harden one.

Dean at http://www.performancecryogenics.com/ can make it even better.

916.434.6978

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/hardened_shafts_and_drums.htm

I did not see a 300 M for the TH350, but they list a harden one.

Dean at http://www.performancecryogenics.com/ can make it even better.

916.434.6978

Thanks Craig. I found that one too and called. It's for a th350 to 208 which is to long. I might be stuck with the stock one, and not doing a 4.5k shift into second on the street. There goes my drag racing hopes. :flipoff2:

call Dean, I'm pretty sure he can even make the stock stuff a lot better.

I just called him. He said it would help, but he's not running another batch until next weekend. That would put me two weeks out. Not sure what to do here. That would just give me two weeks till the con to get everything dialed in. Still have the other trans here as a back up that I can throw in there till this one's ready. What to do, what to do. So after thinking on it, I'm going to ship it off to Dean. Better off doing it right.

A little late now, but I know the owner of a machine shop in sacramento that has been around for ever, and has a great reputation. They build engines and diffs. If you guys ever need a quote for some work, let me know.

Good call sending the output shaft out, better safe than sorry... Love your build :)

So since I'll have to wait a couple of weeks to get my transmission back, I went and put the old transmission back in. (nothing was wrong with it) My new chip came in yesterday, I have to say, it's got some poop to her now. It's been running a little hotter now, so I changed the pusher fan over to a puller. (had one puller and one pusher) The two pullers next to each other are a little wider than the radiator, so I built a little plate to cover the part of the fan that sticks past the radiator. I also moved the steering cooler from behind the radiator to it's own spot next to it. Need to now put it's own fan on it. Earlier today when I took it down the road it was running at 200 degrees with both fans on. Now with both on, it's sitting at 185-190 degrees. (have a 185 thermostat in it) It also is helping not having the grill on it that blocks half the radiator. On the trail before, it would sit at 185-190, but on the road is where it would run around 200 degrees. I'll have to get some road time on it and see how it does now.

do you have a shroud?

I did the same thing, moved everything away from the radiator.

No shroud. Usually stays pretty cool when crawling. Most of the time only have one fan on. Just runs a little warmer than I would like at freeway speeds. (200*-210*) I'm thinking the pusher fan was blocking a lot of air flow through the radiator, along with the narrower grill opening from the front pinch.

Steering cooler fan came in today. Built a mount for it and got it all installed. I wired it in to come on with the one radiator fan thats on a thermostat. On at 185, off at 160 engine temp. Also can manually turn it on. Have it on the thermostat switch because I have been known to forget to turn my engine fans on sometimes. The second engine fan is just on a manual switch, as alot of the time, the one fan keeps it cool enough when crawling.

So I shipped my output shaft off to performance cryogenics, called today to make sure he got it. He has it, but doesn't have enough parts yet to make a run this weekend, so know I have to wait till labor day weekend to have it frozen. I don't think I have time to get the shaft back, get the transmission put back together, and into the scout for the rubicon run. :shaking: Looks like I'll have to run the backup, stock one, that's in it now. Hopefully it holds up.

So my plan on moving both fans to the back side of the radiator didn't work out so well. Back on the IH rubicon run in sept, it was running hotter than it normally did. I ended up swithching the one fan back to the front side while we were in camp, and it ran cooler on the way out. Still wasn't happy with it, so after so searching, I found a dual 13" shrouded fan that fit my radiator perfectly. I have one fan that's hooked to an engine temp switch that will come on automatically or I can switch it on manually. The second one is on a manual switch. So far it only runs on the one fan, and the engine temp sits at 185 which is what my thermostat is. I ended up having to move the bottom radiator mount because the new fans are 4" thick, and I had only 2"s from the radiator to the water pump pulley. Also ended up putting a new radiator in too, as my old one was leaking. Radiator application was for a mid/late 70's camaro. It's a 2 row, 1" tubes, Becool. (same as my old one) Size- 33" width, 18" height. Both outlets are 1.5"s if I remember right.

Put new rear springs in. They are 4.5" rubicon express, tj rear springs. My old ones were used springs that I was told were 3.5" lift springs. It brought the rear up 2"s. I then brought the front up 1". Front uptravel is now 5.5"s. So as it sits now on 38"s, front frame height is 32"s, rear is 32.75"s. Center of frame 23.5"s, bottom of tcase skid is 21.5"s. Wheelbase is 104.5". Installed a limit strap on the rear to keep the driveshaft from binding at full droop. Flexed it out to make sure everything still fit. 53"s under rear tire, 52"s under the front. Not to bad.

what a fucking turd. :grinpimp:

Nice job Doug, looks good.

looks great!

This is my all time favorite Scout :smokin:. I know what I want my next project to be like, looks great.

how much does your front axle pull back on the droop side?

any idea what your stuff and droop is front and back? Im trying to wrap my head around the whole 6" up travel, 8" down, 7 and 7, 9/5, etc with 14" travel ORI's, that I have to order a certain way from factory.

how much does your front axle pull back on the droop side?

any idea what your stuff and droop is front and back? Im trying to wrap my head around the whole 6" up travel, 8" down, 7 and 7, 9/5, etc with 14" travel ORI's, that I have to order a certain way from factory.

I've never measured any of those numbers. I have 5.5 up in front now, and the rest is down on a 14" coilover. Scouts at the house now, probably won't get it back to the shop to check those numbers till I get back from the hammers in a couple of weeks.

Opps

Opps

That last shot looks like it just got tired and decided to take a nap.

hope nothing broke.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=652518&stc=1&d=1329024189

Nothing broke on the flop, but I did snap a rear axle shaft earlier in the week, and also cut a tire early on too. It was a fun week at KOH. Our team ran a 6 min, 48 sec in qualifying which put us 52nd. Lost 4 tires during the race, and had issues with vapor lock on the first lap which put us pretty far behind. Got it cleared up by the second lap, but time was not on our side. We were a mile from the finish line and a half hour past the time limit when the pass side rear axle shaft sheared its bolts and went flying from the car, shortly after the front pass side went. They tried winching it up the last hill put kept breaking the winch rope. It was a big disapointment to be so close and not finish the race.

Eegads that thing has changed alot since i got that old front end from you......


funny thing was you were one trip away from grenading that diff in a bad way.... the R&P was ready to let go..... when i opened it up and cleaned it out to swap in my gears the Ring gear and the pinion had huge spider cracks all the way through. and all teh teeth wiggled at the cracks



I'll have to poke over one of these days and take a look after going through this thread its a whole different critter been busy on my own build.

I had been asked a few questions on the heater that I had used. I gutted all the old heater stuff and went with a Heatercraft model 201HOR. Here's a link to it.http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=201HOR It comes with two 2 1/2" ports. I needed one 2 1/2" port and two 2" ports so I cut the port for the defroster ducting out of the old heater box and screwed it onto the new heater. I then ran some flex tubing to each of the defroster ports and to the new vent box. I looked on heatercrafts website and I can't fix the vent box on it anymore. Plug, I would probably run a second heater in the back for the kids. It heats up the half cab very well. Snug fit in the glove box, but it all fits. With the original heater and fenderwells removed, I built a new battery box and hung it from the firewall.


I dont know why I am having such a hard time figuring this out, but where is the heater? Glove box? I know thats what you said, but I dont 'see' it.

Eegads that thing has changed alot since i got that old front end from you......


funny thing was you were one trip away from grenading that diff in a bad way.... the R&P was ready to let go..... when i opened it up and cleaned it out to swap in my gears the Ring gear and the pinion had huge spider cracks all the way through. and all teh teeth wiggled at the cracks

I'll have to poke over one of these days and take a look after going through this thread its a whole different critter been busy on my own build.

No kidding, I had no idea. Sounds like I pulled it just in time.


I dont know why I am having such a hard time figuring this out, but where is the heater? Glove box? I know thats what you said, but I dont 'see' it.

Post 74, 5th pic, it took me a little while to find it. Yep, it's in the glove box.

thanks. I think that is the same post I quoted, but for some reason, I can see it there. I looked at the link you posted, and the plenum seems quite different in shape. Did you alter that too when you added the different sized ports?

I used the HeaterCraft 201HOR model. My poor paint skills of what I did in yellow. I can get some pics of the bottom of it tonight if you want.

not necessary, but thanks

Nothing broke on the flop, but I did snap a rear axle shaft earlier in the week, and also cut a tire early on too. It was a fun week at KOH. Our team ran a 6 min, 48 sec in qualifying which put us 52nd. Lost 4 tires during the race, and had issues with vapor lock on the first lap which put us pretty far behind. Got it cleared up by the second lap, but time was not on our side. We were a mile from the finish line and a half hour past the time limit when the pass side rear axle shaft sheared its bolts and went flying from the car, shortly after the front pass side went. They tried winching it up the last hill put kept breaking the winch rope. It was a big disapointment to be so close and not finish the race.

Did you hear we are going to try and qualifiy for KOH 2013 in New Mexico next month?

Did you hear we are going to try and qualifiy for KOH 2013 in New Mexico next month?

Yea, I talked with Jimmy a couple of weeks ago and he told me. As much as I want to be there to help, I'm not going to be able to make it down there.

Awesome build... Subscribed.

Sucks about all the carnage. Now you can toughen it up! :D

hey doug,

so you have the vents on the heater facing down? Any problems burping the system that way?

hey doug,

so you have the vents on the heater facing down? Any problems burping the system that way?

No problems burping it.

what adapters are you running to go from the 3" at the heater to the 2" at the defroster?

what adapters are you running to go from the 3" at the heater to the 2" at the defroster?

Maybe use an exhaust reducer from vatozone or something like it.

what adapters are you running to go from the 3" at the heater to the 2" at the defroster?

I cut out part of the old heater and screwed it onto the new heater. I'll get some pics tonight that will explain it better.

I went ahead and order the vintage air set up. It has 2" ducts and a bottom dump for the floor. Has variable heat selection too.

would still like to see pics of your set up if you can get them. Thanks a lot.

Pics of the ports on the bottom of the heater. It had two of the bigger ports, I cut out one of the ports and then cut out the ports from the factory 800 defroster ports, then screwed it to the bottom of the new heater. The two smaller ducting goes to the defrosters and the larger one goes to the drivers side to blow heat onto me.

thanks a lot.