How do you get the brake callipers off of an 82 chevy p/u...... I am tring to change the studs out on the front hub and I am stuck on that part I cant figure it out. :mad: :confused: Need help ASAP.

Two allen headed bolts on the back side of the caliper. Pull them out and you might have to pry the caliper a little.

Thanks Didn't think they were threaded you can't see the threads till you losen them. Have one out now working on the other its stuck thanks for your help.

ok I got the calliper off but how do get to the studs I cant see how they are in there???

You have to remove the rotor assembly from the axle and press (or hammer)them out

(working on rotor assembly now)
This truck has some unknow aftermarket 4 wheel drive system added. We are unsure of how to take out the bearings. Got the first one out. And We are down to one that seems to be mounted to the front axle. Any tips/help thanks. :confused:

BTW chiltons ain't worth crap. Thank you that is all.

TTT truck is sitting outside in apart only have till parts store closes.

Well had to call it a day. (we where working on 2 vechiles at once) Mounted a tranny cooler on the other so atleast that got done. But we still need to replace 2 of the front stuts because they have broken. And we will also be packing the bearings. So any tips are welcome.

Thanks

http://tahuck.tripod.com/dustytruck2.jpg

BTW this is the truck. :D


(tripoid sucks no linking :flipoff2: ) Your going to have to cut and paste it into the address bar for it to work.

Some times the inner bearing is stuck on the spindle which prevents the rotor from coming off when the inner bearing hits the grease seal. Usually ramming the hub/rotor back and forth will pull the grease seal out of the hub. You can then use a bearing puller/srewdriver/weapon of choice to remove the bearing from the spindle. I suspect this is what happened based on your level of knowledge(no offense). Make sure you replace the grease seal when reassembling. Also make sure you do not over tighten the bearing retaining nut. If the bearing is indeed stuck on the spindle you may need to torque down the bearing retaining nut pretty hard to properly seat the bearing on reinstallation, then back it off and install it @ manufacturers specs(I dont know what the specs are I just guess by feel).


Charlo

"This truck has some unknow aftermarket 4 wheel drive system added"

What?......looks like every other full size Chevy on the planet to me....anyone else?

If you got past getting the automatic hubs off you're doing good, sounds to me like the inner bearing is going to be shot, smack that rotor with a deadblow until it comes off and use afore mentioned weapon of choice to get the seized bearing off the spindle with out destroying the spindle, are you sure you've got the right chilton's book? If you've got a book for a Honda Civic that GM 10 bolt front axle may look like some aftermarket setup.

Originally posted by Scottsdale4X4
(working on rotor assembly now)
This truck has some unknow aftermarket 4 wheel drive system added. We are unsure of how to take out the bearings. Got the first one out. And We are down to one that seems to be mounted to the front axle. Any tips/help thanks. :confused:

BTW chiltons ain't worth crap. Thank you that is all.


If that picture at tripod is the truck you are working on then it has the STOCK FACTORY AUTOMATIC LOCKING HUBS..Maybe the manual is not the problem maybe it is your mechanical/reading ability that is lacking..

I dunno, the Chiltons book shows round springy things and triangle shaped arms but this truck has this big stick between the wheels with a bulge in it on the passenger side, and another stick going from the bulge back towards the rear, and it's all bolted to these long peices of steel strap, oh yeah, and the hubcaps say 8 on them (4x4=8), but they only have 6 bolts holding the tires on. How come my truck grinds when I pull the emergency brake and why does the emergency brake handle say 2hi, 4hi, and 4lo?

I'm pretty sure its not the factory system. If it is its not for the right year of the truck. Must be some other year. Because every time we go to the parts store and try to get studs/caps for it. We have to dig thru there huge wall of junk and find what we need so if they are stock I don't think it was FOR THAT YEAR. Either that or the people at autozone are even dumber than I thought. Also the chiltions we had wasn't year specific for our truck. Its a general truck/van book. Not a whole lot of help.

Further more if there is some way we can find out if this is the 4 wheel drive system that came that year or what year of if it is or indeed a aftermarket system would be great. We are going on 2 things when we say its aftermarket that is what the last owner the truck was bought from has told us. And the happenings at autozone but there probably just screw ups so.

Anyway we got the hub off today. The inner bearings out they had 2 locking screws circle parts that had heated up and locked up nicely had to take a wedge and really hammer them out to losen up enough to turn. We got it off and moved the studs we had (4) around evenly still missing 2 because the parts store had NONE matching the ones that where on it. SO I'm not sure how we are going to get new studs. (The studs they showed us for a stock 4 wheel drive of the same year was NOT THE SAME and we where unable to locate any on there wall full of diffrent studs.)

And yes it is the truck at the tripod site.

And geez Just asking for some help If you gotta be a dick just don't bother replying. Thanks :flipoff2:

Fist of all a "aftermarket 4wheel drive system" does not tell us anything. Second, there are very few mods that would effect the area of the car you are working on. The three that come to mind are A, a front axle swap B, a drum to disc conversion C, a automatic to manuel locking hub conversion. You shouldnt have ever had drums on that car, you still have auto hubs, and it looks like you have the original axle up front. And just to let you know 98% of the people at the parts store dont know jack shit about cars, let alone 4x4s. It sounds like you are in over your head on this one. We are happy to help but dont make bold assumptions if you dont know what the hell it is you are looking at. Glad to hear you got the rotor off.


Charlo

P.S. when you put it back together make sure both bearings taper towards eachother and the retaining nut with the nipple goes on first with the nipple pointed away from truck.

Sorry about being a dick, but this board is pretty brutal sometimes, most people won't even answer simple questions, they'll just tell you to seach. Autozone and Pepboys and the like hire people that should be delivering pizza or something and they only know what the computer tells them. From waht you describe your truck si just like every other full size Chevy truck of that vintage.

Wheel studs? you're having trouble locating wheel studs? They would be nearly the same for no matter what year the axle is, or what make for that matter, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, etc. It shoud be a standard 1/2" or 7/16" wheel stud, try a different parts store. I had similar trouble getting 1/2" wheel studs for a friend whose tire came off on the freeway. The guy looked up the application and came back with 7/16" studs, I told him we needed 1/2" studs and he asked me what year truck would have come with 1/2" studs, I told him to go back to the shelf where he got the studs in his hand, put them back in the box markd 7/16 and grab studs out of the box next to it that was marked 1/2, that took some convincing, but it worked out in the end.

Unless someone rigged up some old '60's European Nissan Patrol axle into your truck it is the original type system, the two adjuster nuts you spoke of require a special socket to turn them, but you can get them out with a hammer and punch, the outer one should have been tight, then there should have been a ring with holes in it, locking the inner from turning, the ring slides out, and the inner one should turn out easily. Then do on occasion spin on the spindle when the berings go way bad, and that would make them very hard to remove. If you turned both nuts all the way off the spindle together with the lock ring in between you no doubt destroyed the spindle. Any Chilton's or Hanes manual for '73 - '87 Chevy pickup should explain this setup with pictures, I have one but it's at home and I haven't used it in over ten years but I know it covers this.

Don't put this back together yourself if you don't understand how it works, you'll be risking your life and the lives of everyone else on the road. Find someone with a lifted Chevy in your town and see if they will help you.

Well it has already been put back together and driven on so we got it figured out. There where the to locking circle pens you describe in the very back. We had to chisel them out to get them to turn (well actually just the one infront If I recall right). That is what had us stuck the first time. They where ceased up nicely and very hard to turn.

When I say "after market 4 wheel drive system" yah that doesn't say alot. That is all we know about it because THAT IS ALL ANYONE HAS TOLD US including the last owner. Last owner basically told us that the truck has had a 4 wheel drive system added to it and he was under the impression that it was after market so that is all we had to go on. Frankly I hope it is stock will make getting parts for it much easier.

And the people at autozone usually aren't much help but we where in a Bind and they where the nearest parts store.

Well the truck may have been a 2wd originally, but it's not a hard swap and will look factory if done right, but the axle looks and sounds to be factory GM stuff, maybe just transplanted from an older truck. Look at the spring hangers, are they bolted on, or riveted, and look at the shackle hanger at the rear of the front spring, is that riveted on, or does it look bolted with a torched out hole for the shackle? There is no "aftermarket 4wd system" out there for Chevy pickups, and the only after market 4wd conversions still going on today are mostly vans and delivery truck that still use the same solid axle available on the factory trucks, so it's not like that's some odd ball axle under there, unless you've got a real bodge job on your hands. Glad you got it together

Dunno have to check that stuff out and see if its stock riveted like you would get it from the factory or if someone has done a weld job under there or not.