Seems that many of the koh type rigs that I see running bypasses are doing so only in the rear. What is the reasoning? Is it only packaging or is it something else? My logic would say to run them on the front since that's where most of my weight-bias is and seems more likely to need better control over the ride since it is leading.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=400395&stc=1&d=1225578356

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392891&stc=1&d=1222319209

the rear takes more valving to control it than the front so it will heat up the shocks more, so you can run 2 to keep them both cool. My front end has a 15 comp and 10 rebound, while the rear has a 12/10 in the coilover and a 20/10 in the bypass.

So often times is a bypass not needed in the front? I'm currently running FOA 2.5" x 14" shocks in the front but was thinking of replacing them with bypasses and moving the 2.5's to the rear, where I know my 5150's are not keeping up. I do not have room on this rig for bypasses in the rear, but will when I build my next chassis in a couple of years. I'll be using most of my current parts, just in a high travel chassis along the lines of Whitebro's or Randy's "bomber" chassis

the bypasses will work the same as a smooth body as long as they are both tuned properly, a bypass is just a little more position sensitive and you can fine tune the valving externally making it easier. Bypasses all around would be great, and what I have on my a-arm toyota race truck.

On my car the rear needed more.. It is set up with a 50/50 weight bias and rear steer. I have noticed huge improvments and have done quite a bit of tuning. As far as packaging it was just as hard in the rear of mine due to rear steer and the sway bar set up. The front is getting 2.5" Piggybacks just for fading reasons. I don't think I need them up front. If I had them laying around sure.....but for performance i don't think so. Weight and were it is placed has everything to do with it.

Just my .02

Bypasses are softer in the middle and stiffer at both ends, so not like smoothies. Remember that they need to almost bottom out at full compression to work properly.

On my jeepspeed the rears get up to 500 degrees and the fronts stay 200-240.

The rear works harder due to weight transfer during acceleration.

Seems that many of the koh type rigs that I see running bypasses are doing so only in the rear. What is the reasoning? Is it only packaging or is it something else? My logic would say to run them on the front since that's where most of my weight-bias is and seems more likely to need better control over the ride since it is leading.


9 times out of 10, the reason is packaging or budget. Most anyone running bypasses in rear only would prefer to have them in front as well, if they had the room/money for them.
As to which end works harder...it varies with vehicles, but it's not unusual for the rear to be the harder working in the desert.

9 times out of 10, the reason is packaging or budget. Most anyone running bypasses in rear only would prefer to have them in front as well, if they had the room/money for them.
As to which end works harder...it varies with vehicles, but it's not unusual for the rear to be the harder working in the desert.

Thanks. I'll have to try a pair on the front first when I can squeeze them into the budget. The fish tank is getting the money this month.

I think also it has to do with how much travel the vehicle has. Most of these trucks have more rear wheel travel and thus benefit more from the position sensitivity.

The rear of our race truck was like this forever--bypasses on the rear only and it flew thru the air and over bumps beautifully. It was tuned by the previous owner. Then we decided to scrap all the suspension and go with everything new front and rear and add bypasses to the front. Our truck was so bad I swear my rock crawler was faster lol. Lots of spring and shock adjustments later I know why people put them on the rear first. Tuning on the rear is extremely important cause it keeps you off your lid! You can drive the front if its not quite right as long as the back keeps the truck level! Its hard to keep moving forward when your front skid plate eats dirt and your back bumper tries to lead by coming over the roof!!! Its way easy to compensate for a bad suspension set up by tunning some dampening in or out of the rear as opposed to making adjustments to the front.

Jason :)