Here's my idea, please look at it carefully, then you can destroy it :flipoff2:

early 90's yj
4 cylinder (avenger supercharger :D )
auto tranny
231-tcase w/ tera low HD SYE
dana 30 w/ ARB 4:56's
CTM u-joints
dana 35 w/ 4:56's & super 35 detroit kit
tera belly up crossmember
37" mtr's
15x7 alloy's
1" body lift
2.5" leafs spring under
reverse shackle
inverted tierod
raised fuel cell in floor
tube fenders front
trimmed as much as physically possible in the rear
add a winch and rock hoop for the front with full cage
typical steel rockers and corners

i think this would be a great light weight rockcrawler(not racer), that could be driven daily now let the stompin begin

dana 35 w/ 4:56's & super 35 detroit kit :flipoff2:


8.8"

Originally posted by Rocxtreme
Here's my idea, please look at it carefully, then you can destroy it :flipoff2:

early 90's yj
dana 30 w/ ARB 4:56's
CTM u-joints


Better be thinking warn alloy alxe shafts too. :flipoff2:

tera belly up - not sure that is meant for or works on a YJ, I thought it was mostly for a TJ. Not that it really matters, I'm pretty sure you can do a flat skid with the auto tranny

The small engine goes some way to making it last (although the super charger would of course negate that), but bottom line is this is what happens to dana 30 sized inner axles under load with 36+ tires:

http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/trails/cripplecreek/20020629/Dcp_4675s.jpg

The CTM might make the u joint survive, but it's not going to solve the small shaft size at the splines.

just my 2c.

I think you're trying to copy my Jeep except I have real axles. Better think twice about making it a daily driver.

But here's what you probably wanted to hear: SUPER 35, AWESOME! You've got the coolest, greatest idea ever! Can't believe anyone else hasn't already thought of it :rolleyes: *edit* and broken that shit with smaller tires :shaking:

1" body lift
2.5" leafs spring under

Hmm... Spring under? and 37" tires? that is a SHITLOAD of sawzall!

I run 36x12.50 SX's and have about 7" of suspension lift SOA and still almost rub and that was AFTER I swazalled it! (1" body lift away from 38's or go crazy with the swazall :p)

Originally posted by twaldher


Hmm... Spring under? and 37" tires? that is a SHITLOAD of sawzall!




Nothing wrong with the ol sawzall..... that's man's best friend

He wants it to be a DD. with that much fender trimming. Well.. there won't be fenders or body tub. ;)

I would run waggy 44s front and rear. I would also look for a inline 6 or scrap the idea of the supercharger. Why spend the cash unless you already have a line on one. That rig is very similar to mine. I run a 44 front, 9 inch rear.. It sounds like a solid plan. I would also try to extend the wheelbase some while your at it and since your trimming. I am running 100 inches on mine with 37s. It funny how us hardcore XJs guys find the limits of the rig and build something from scratch. Good luck Rob K

Now I have been told (but never compared) that the YJs come from the factory a bit smaller than a TJ. Based on that assumptions, a 2.5" lifted YJ would still be lifted less than a 2.5" TJ. Based on that, I don't know how it would be possible to fit 37s on a 2.5" lifted TJ AND keep the factory wheelbase and width, unless you actually removed the entire front fenders, cut into the cowl, removed the hood, and removed the rear tub.

This is based on my experience with fitting 37s on a TJ with 4" of lift and a 1" BL. I've the rears trimmed up of course. Also the front fenders are cut under the hood.

But what most people that want to slap on 37s don't think about before hand is that the tire is also closer to the fender that is at the bottom of the jeep tub (where there rockers mount). In my case I had to trim over 3" of the actual tub away, to get the 37s to clear the lowest point on the body during up travel.

I know this is comparing a TJ to a YJ, however, I don't exactly see how you can fit 37s on a 2.5" SUA YJ (regardless of the sawzall effect) and not have them rub anywhere (not just at full stuff which is what most people are concerned with).

Also, most of us on here are going to assume that this may be your first jeep. In that case do the trails (and your jeep) a favor and learn to wheel first, then build it up in stages. That way you will figure out what works and what doesn't. :)

to give you some background on me... No this is not my first jeep...I have had a 78 scout, built, then a 90 XJ built with upto 9" of lift and then back down to 4.5" of lift running 35's on the 44 rear and dana 30 frront with a 6 cylinder 5 speed backed by a tera low and 4:56's hugging ARB's. I could put this vehicle in more places than should have been possible, but alas, the body was becoming shredded. I currently have an 86 yota that is finishing up the SAS conversion with 37's.

the build up that i am talking of would mean losing the front fenders all together and tube directly under the hood. This wouls be a bumpstop along with normal bumpstops. The idea is to create an equal balance front to rear. The up travel would be limited, but the entire idea is large tires, very low center of gravity, great in off cambers. the rear would be trimmed towards the rear to open the wheel well up and extend the wheelbase rearward 2 to 3 inches. this would offer a better driveshaft angle with the belly up for yj's from tera and such.

i could drop the supercharger yes, just nice on the freeways and such, no real added cost. i feel that by keeping the overall vehicle light and lowered powered, that it would be able to run the 37's.

keep the response coming, it just fuels my fire to make it happen.

:flipoff2:

It all sounds like a good plan except for the 4 banger and D35. Regardless of who you know that sells Super 35 kits and how cheap you can get them- :flipoff2:
But let's take a closer look. Do you really think a DD with this level of mods will still be a good daily driver? Full on offroad capability and street driving aren't all that compatible in my opinion. We used to drive very similar rigs that did OK on the highway, and pretty damn good offroad- but the build parts that take it to full on offroad kill the highway part.
Throw it some horsepower and real axles, cut the body till the stuff that gets mangled is gone, and call it a day.
Oh yeah, and pick up a tow rig. I'm still working on that part, so the Jeep does limited street driving. Like, out the front door of the shop, around the block and in the back door. :rolleyes:

Without the supercharger, an auto tranny 4cyl with 4.56s is gonna suck. Mines barely tollerable with 4.88s and the AX-5.

If your gonna have the money for the supercharger, then spend it on axles instead. Passing up better axles for a faster jeep doesn't really mesh with the rest of your plans (or most of the guys on this board for that matter :D )

i jus picked up a 95 YJ 2.5, with an AX-5 (minus 5th gear, yeaow!!!:D ), and have been contemplating the same desire (wheeler and DD), but I am going a different direction. I had a 2.5 powered TJ, and geared it till i couldnt (4.88) anymore, and it sucked on 35s. I am gonna put in a 23 spline 3500 or ax15, and a 23 spline transfer case (anyone know if a NP208 will bolt up???? I know if it came out of a full size jeep it has a 23 spline input and shares the same 6 bolt pattern as a 231????) and go KILLER axles. The only drawback was weight. I talked to a local company (sunray), and I think I have decided to spend the build money on their 9"/D60 hybrid axles, 9" ring and pinion are hella strong (specially if u run a really steep gear ratio), and get 35 spline axles all around, plus the knuckles from the 60 in front (kingpin!!). I also didnt want to limit myself to jus the 2.5 in the future, lets face it, it jus dont GET IT!! Id build it so you didnt waste so much money in the future by changing what u already did (speaking from experience)

If you don't do anything else different than you planned, you still gotta dump the 35, and since weight is a consideration with the 4, a 44 would be perfect and easy. No matter how much money and time you dump into a 35, with 35s and any serious wheeling its gonna break...quickly. I've seen more money wasted on the Super 35 kit than probably any other mod to a YJ.

Originally posted by crawlinTJ
Without the supercharger, an auto tranny 4cyl with 4.56s is gonna suck. Mines barely tollerable with 4.88s and the AX-5.


Just an FYI because you don't know (obviously). An auto tranny has a torque converter which effectively doubles it's first gear ratio from a stop. An auto tranny will allow for easier crawling in a similar set-up (when compared to a manual) with less gearing.

With that said I run 5.13s with my 4-banger and automatic transmission. I run 38" TSLs and I wouldn't trade it for a manual, that would make it intollerable power wise.

Originally posted by bigdude



With that said I run 5.13s with my 4-banger and automatic transmission. I run 38" TSLs and I wouldn't trade it for a manual, that would make it intollerable power wise.

Not if you put in a decent manual (ie NP435, SM465, T18, SM420), etc. The SM420 has been done.. The both have their advantages.

pass on the supercharger and use a tricountry 9# flywheel and get a 44 or 8.8 for the rear. viola!! bantam weight rockcrawler!! :D

ya but a manual 4cyl with 4.56 and 37"s would be a nightmare for the street. . the auto is a much better choice in this case.

Originally posted by jslamerman
iI am gonna put in a 23 spline 3500 or ax15, and a 23 spline transfer case (anyone know if a NP208 will bolt up???? I know if it came out of a full size jeep it has a 23 spline input and shares the same 6 bolt pattern as a 231????)

If you plan on doing axles and a t-case why not use a Dana-300?
23 spline input and far stronger than the NP-208 you're talking...

Lots of the guys who work at Sunray,and build jeeps of their own swear by them (32 splines at the yokes, and a fixed yoke in the rear) dont know of any advantages internally (transfer case illiterate I guess), but they run 400+ horsepower engines in their rigs, and no problems. I also happen to have one.... I really dont know the stats on either to support an argument either way myself.

Originally posted by LordRatner
ya but a manual 4cyl with 4.56 and 37"s would be a nightmare for the street. . the auto is a much better choice in this case.

Absolutely, gears would have to be lower with the manual..just saying it can/has been done and works well. The auto is a better choice for a DD.

37s with 4.56 and the 4banger, auto or not, is a stretch in any case. IMO, anyway.

and just how do you plan to put a ax15 (23 spline) on the 21 spline (Edit: ax5) 4 banger?

and just how do you plan to put a ax15 (23 spline) on the 21 spline 4 banger?
WTF are you talking about dude? The 23 splines we are referring to are the spline engagement between the tranny and transfer case, and IF youd read, youd see I plan to upgrade the tranny (due to loss of 5th gear, and it generally being a POS), and the transfer case at the same time!

4cyl + big tires + daily driver = dumbass!!! just trying to save you the headache.

If stuck with 4cyl I would run dana 44's with 5.13 gears. To clear the tires I would go with one of those fiberglass or acrylic hoods with the fenders molded into them (tons of clearnance) Stay away from the shackle reversal it could cause clearance problems under compression at the back of the tire. Also why not 4" lift it really isnt that tall and will net you a little bit of up travel so your not riding the bumpstops all the time (read rough ride) Finally i wouldnt run 15x7 alloys because I highly doupt you could find them with a decent offset to allow a good turning radius with narrow axles. Get a 15x8 steel with 2.5/3" backspacing. If you can tell I have thought about this alot, when I graduate college i'm buying my dads YJ which currently sits on 4"/1" lift and 33's. I want to put the 37's and 6 lug beadlocks off my pickup and put rockwells under that.

:edit: almost forgot you are so low to the ground rear driveshaft angles are not much of an issue so I would run a klune V reduction box instead of a tera low gear set (this would net better low range and more options)

My less then 2 cents. I have a YJ, 4 cyl, Dana 44's, 5.38's, 35's, SM420, Dana 300. Works well, geared a bit high for highway, but tolerable for short drives. Power is just ok, but liveable, peppy in town, plenty off road, with a crawl right around 100.

4.56's with an auto is not going to be enough gearing IMHO, I ran 33's with 4.10's for a while and it was terrible!

A friend has 37's on a YJ with a SOA with stock springs, he has a lot of cutting to do yet. I think if you can do it without any more lift it will be cool, but you might not have much body left.

Show us the pics when you do.

David

Yeah right... call us when you build it dude.

And don't forget to say something along the lines of "whaddaya think of my Jeep...? " or somesuch.

Fawkin' Newbies. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama
Yeah right... call us when you build it dude.

And don't forget to say something along the lines of "whaddaya think of my Jeep...? " or somesuch.

Fawkin' Newbies. :flipoff2:

Bawahahahahahaha :laughing:

SMACK

Originally posted by jslamerman
i jus picked up a 95 YJ 2.5, with an AX-5........ I am gonna put in a 23 spline 3500 or ax15, and a 23 spline transfer case........WTF are you talking about dude? The 23 splines we are referring to are the spline engagement between the tranny and transfer case, and IF youd read, youd see I plan to upgrade the tranny (due to loss of 5th gear, and it generally being a POS), and the transfer case at the same time!

let me rephrase for you.......
how the fuck are you going to put an ax15 on a 2.5 AMC?

forget all that

how are you going to run 37s on a jeep with 3 inches of lift

I can barely run 35s with 5 inches


95.5 yj 2.5 ax5 231 30/8.8

3.5/1 1.75 shackle

cut rear and front fenders

still rubs need to cut more

ROCXTREME needs to change his fawkin name and stay out of the roc "ETREME" shit and go back to the newbie section. I dont thing anyone with extreme pr any abbreviation of it should include puttin a rig on stock axles as a dail driver on the same post. Take some advice...read...search....post in the newbie section...its simple evolution.....or go back to fawkin Jeeps unlimited or Jeep forum...they can answer you question.:flipoff2:

i've watched a buddy with a currie 9" front and warns inners and outers blow the shafts to shit with 37" crawlers ... that being said... 37s... hmmm a d60 or custom built 9" with 35 spline outers.. a DANA 35? are you fucking stupid? for a couple hundred bucks u can have a rebuilt 60 or 14 bolt and not worry about it... your spring under idea.. try again... think more like spring over with 1.5 inch military wrap springs.... and as far as engine/trans weight goes.. you do realize that an lt-1/4l60e combo is 200 lbs lighter than a 4.0/aw4 right? what you are planning on building is a waste of money.. i am going to trash my whole driveline pussy machine... and just so you know... i drive my xj on 35s daily and am quickly going to retire it... its not fun.... as for gears ... with a 4 banger you're gonna have to go way deeper than 4.56s to more that turd... with 4.56s and a 4.0 i thought my xj was sluggish on 35s.... get a fucking clue! oh and a hint.. if you want to flat belly the pig.. use xj rear springs flipped and get yourself some extra wheelbase..

I have a 95 YJ 4 cyl with 37" MTR's and 4.56 gears and top speed on the street is 50mph, thats pushing it. It's a trail Jeep so it never touches the pavement. It does awsome offroad with the atlas/klune setup. I have SOA using 2.5 springs and still stuff the 37's in the fenders.

Originally posted by drasko
ROCXTREME needs to change his fawkin name and stay out of the roc "ETREME" shit and go back to the newbie section. ....... Take some advice...read...search....post in the newbie section...its simple evolution.....or go back to fawkin Jeeps unlimited or Jeep forum...they can answer you question.:flipoff2:

ummm.....look at the date of this post

my 2 cents, i started building a dana 35 non clip super kit to toss in my yj. half way through building up the axles i decided i was wasting money, since i could pick the dana 35 up and walk around with it by myself. i was aiming for 35 or 37 inch mtrs, i don't remember which. a friend of mine was and still is running a 30/35 super kit under 38s and 37s for years now, and i convinced myself i could too.

long story short i tossed in a 44/12 bolt combo and killed it every time i went out on my 38.5 sx, which are very close to the 37s, just a tiny bit heavier. after warn shafts, ctms, arb, ect, i wish i just would have put a 60 up front and saved myself the headache. when people say 60 60 60, don't waste your time, they have been there. they are just trying to help out.

as to the 2.5 inch of lift, if you stay spring under, 1 inch body lift, cut out the rear and cut into the hood in the front, you still probably won't have enough lift. you definately won't have any up travel to speak of. i have 2 inch lift springs sprung over in front, shackle reversal, and droped spring perches, and i still tag the sides of the hood. i don't even really have fenders left up front.

if you really want to build your jeep like you have planned out, simply change your tire size to 35s and you will be much closer to having something usable. your going to need more lift though, at least another couple inches. i had 33s with 5 inches of lift sprung under and still rubbed alot.

have fun and build whatever you want, just make sure you wheel the wee out of it. also, don't just shoot for some giant tire size if you have never even had 33s, your just taking a perfectly good vehicle and destroying it so that all it can do is trails. ( thats both a good and bad thing, but most people don't know they are building a trailer queen until they are done ) i don't think mine has had more than 100 miles in the last 2 years since i got myself some new fancy axles.

Super 35 Kit=Super waste of money. How much more can you polish a turd? For the cost of that kit, you could swap in a D44 from a Cherokee, Waggy, etc., or a Ford 8.8 and get disc brakes in the process. You'd be better off paying someone $850 to kick you in the junk and call it even:) Seriously, I tried to polish my D35 also, but they're not meant for lockers & big tires

I have built the same basic rig BUT with a coilover XCL.
Have some comments:
1.- The 4cyl WON¨T move those 37" with 4.56
2.- I run 35" with 4.88 and it is barelly ridable on the highway and with 33" it is more or less OK.
3.- Forget about the Super35 get a Ford8.8 with rear disks and do the o-ring mod to the master cyl.
4.- Plan for changing MOST of the steering (pump, box, links etc..)
5.- You will need EXTENSIVE tub trimming. My 33" hit the OEM fenders, the 35" neeeded about 3" relief at the back of the fender wells and 37" will need a body shop retouch the interiors of the fender (tub).
6.- Want low speed performance: Get a Klune V

Keep us informed

THIS IS SUCH A FUNNY POST TO READ....i love reading about newbie's wasting their money, building a rig around shitty parts:p

Originally posted by rkcrawl


Not if you put in a decent manual (ie NP435, SM465, T18, SM420), etc. The SM420 has been done.. The both have their advantages.


Bullshit!
Just try shifting through the wide range between 2nd and 3rd gear with a 4 cylinder pushing 37" tires in high range on the street.
Hell my engine pushes 300 hp through my NP435 to 38" tires,..and even it hates that gap between gears in high range on sand dunes.
On the street he would be basicly starting out in 2nd gear, and shifting 2 twice to get to 1:1.
Can you say rev it to 5000rpm, in 3rd gear to hold 40 mph on steep hills,...great daily driver attributes. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by kidwired


let me rephrase for you.......
how the fuck are you going to put an ax15 on a 2.5 AMC?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=168456&highlight=AX15+AND+2.5

Originally posted by Jayrockn7
THIS IS SUCH A FUNNY POST TO READ....i love reading about newbie's wasting their money, building a rig around shitty parts:p


exactly,

then the posts dont even follow the original post, they go into some fawkin argument about auto vs manual. :flipoff2: How the fawk did we pull this one up, it isnt thursday is it?:flipoff2:


If there is any chance this original poster still reads replies to this post: your whole plan sounds pretty weak to me. Let's hear some update about how you pulled your head out of .....:D


My jeep is still my DD.

This is funny shit!!!

As for the minimal lift crap it works fine. I ran a sagged 4" SUA with 40's and a 3"bl. Went to 37's cause I wanted to try krawlers. Lots of flex-no rub.


http://tommyjeep.com/trips/dusy/08-29-03/images/2.jpg

Originally posted by CA_YJ
As for the minimal lift crap it works fine. I ran a sagged 4" SUA with 40's and a 3"bl. Went to 37's cause I wanted to try krawlers. Lots of flex-no rub.


Nice sunglasses, you trying to get in with Backstreet or Clay Aiken???

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by ChadLloyd
[B]tera belly up - not sure that is meant for or works on a YJ

I have the terra belly up on my YJ and it works fine..kinda weak..but it was cheap and raised the belly up nicely

Originally posted by bigdude


Nice sunglasses, you trying to get in with Backstreet or Clay Aiken???

:flipoff2:

The official flame thread...:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

They're not those huge ass designer crap ones... VZs They just look big cuse I'm in the shade

But hey, don't talk shit cause your sister loves um:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Idiot meter is on full bore on this thread.

New to pirate and already laughing my ass off!:flipoff2:

you will need more than a 2.5 lift to run 37s,i ran 6inch spring under on 35s and rubbed on the trail.now i have 2.5 spring over and 1inch body lift with pro rock 60s to run 37s.start cutting

Originally posted by CA_YJ
This is funny shit!!!

As for the minimal lift crap it works fine. I ran a sagged 4" SUA with 40's and a 3"bl. Went to 37's cause I wanted to try krawlers. Lots of flex-no rub.


http://tommyjeep.com/trips/dusy/08-29-03/images/2.jpg


easy target -
your photo aint sua:flipoff2:


yeah yeah I know, but why did you post the photo then?

Um...look again... ya the front is SOA, but the jeep sits level. the rear is sittin on 2 year old 4" Currie springs. SOA/SUA combo

http://www.rev1crawlers.com/Rubicon_03/images/DSCN5674.jpg

this thread has been a pretty wild ride. :p

Originally posted by blue p.o.s.


ummm.....look at the date of this post

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:












wasn't me this time.

:flipoff2:

This is amusing....

A four-banger with 4:56 barely turn 33s. And WTF is up with the spring under? You'll need spring over for clearance and flex. If you build something, do right. You're wasting time and money otherwise.

Well I run 36" with 2.5" SUA and a 1" BL, and my front fenders are custom faltties. In the rear you'll have to rear box your rear wheel wells, my 36" rub just a tad and it's cut right to the wheel box edge.

As others have said bet bigger axles, the D30 and D35 are not meant to this sort of thing, unless you expect to buy lots and lots of axles parts due to breakage.

And yes, you can run a flat skid plate with an auto. I do, but I also have a 1.5" motor mount lift.

And with the 4 banger you'll need 4.88's, 4.56's are on the edge. Yeah there's not much difference but then again you only got 4 squirresl, but if this is gonna be a trailered vehicle....

If I was you I'd stick with 35"s for now, and upgrade the axles.

Originally posted by 4x4 Pete
Idiot meter is on full bore on this thread.

It wasn't full bore till you said something :flipoff2:
Scott

Originally posted by bigdude


An auto tranny has a torque converter which effectively doubles it's first gear ratio from a stop.

What? :rasta:




As far as the axles go!! Dana 30 + Dana 35 = :nuke:

Originally posted by Po' riggity


It wasn't full bore till you said something :flipoff2:
Scott

Yuk Yuk..:flipoff2:

Yeah, I'm a newbie to this board, but I agree with what all the others are saying about trying to run the 37's and spring under. It will rub !!! I ran 4' lift with a 2' body lift, and My 35's still got my fenders, plus you will need to upgrade the axles. I broke 2 Dana 30 shafts, and 1 dana 35 shaft with the 35's. And I also run the 4 cylinder. I upgraded to Soa, and I ran the 44's, and 456 gears, and a Atlas 4.3 and 38'TSL's, and It does great on the trail, but I can only get to about 60 or 65 on the road and that is at 3000 RPM's. Plus , I put a 904 torque flight trannie in it, and It really helped out on the trails, plus it seems to help on the road to. The jeep was flipped over backwards and rolled 1 1/2 times, and smashed the hood grill and fenders, so I added a hoop, and Hell of a long stinger to it :eek: , and Now I am in the process of stretching it, and putting a 60 in the rear and will be re-gearing to 513's. I never broke the 44 axles, and I rockcrawl with it, and do just about whatever I want, and the axles have held up great. So, Like everyone else said, you better get bigger axles, and more lift. Good luck on your buildup, and I would like to see pic of the finished results. Yeah, I saw the date of the post, but I just thought I had to get a first post in somewhere.:flipoff2: Here is a shot of mine turning the 38's with the 4 banger. No problem... And yes, I will be flatfendering it, and tieing the hoop and stinger into it all.

http:// http://www.81x.com/Authors/kamikaze124/More%20Jeeps/scan0002.jpg

LET IT DIE! :rolleyes: