http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/BBSups//DSCF0015.JPG

check out this pic, how are you guys compressing the poly halves inthere enough to get the last washer and c clip in the recess? the picture might not be detailed enough, but the poly ends right at the end of the joint body and i still have to get that washer and c clip in past the reces...the BF hammer dont work....

Hey booger ive never done that but im willing to bet that you could use some big vice grips? just a thought,let me know if you need some(the ones that are like a C clamp)

Is that your fawking shackle hanger?

All mine are on control arms so I just remove them and put them in the vice and muscle them in. Even then they didn't take that much effort.

try a large C clamp to compress it. or channle locks

Originally posted by ROCKTACO
Hey booger ive never done that but im willing to bet that you could use some big vice grips? just a thought,let me know if you need some(the ones that are like a C clamp)

i dont have any big enough, how soon til you get here ill put some beers in the fridge:flipoff2:

How bout' using 2 pieces of tube and a lenght of all thread along with a pair of washers...pull them in and add the ring. Sort of a spring compressor. Sockets of the right O.D. etc. Hey what size are those ? Who is the supplier? Good luck.

I just remembered that one side was a c clip like yours and on the other side is a threaded insert that can be adjusted with a spanner wrench.

Does yours have the threaded insert on the other side?

If so start by putting the C clip in first then do the threaded side.

It is friday...dont got to work tomarrow ...I did want to look at your hydro assist(still dont have mine on)hmmmm souds very tempting! Ha ha kinda like the friday move "its fridat you aint got shit to do,Im gona get you high today"Let me know if its gettin to the wire for ya .Ill coma through if need be .Where are ya again?I may have had to many beers already?

These are the ones I have.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/images/RE3791.jpg

nope, no spanner wrench thread on either side :(. the other side merely has a raised edge another big washer sits against. this is allpros joint. 2.5" i beleive...

monkey, that setup would be much easier to assemble! glad i have these pieces of shit all welded on already:(n mine dont even have a zerk fitting....

Originally posted by Monkeyboy
These are the ones I have.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/images/RE3791.jpg
Sorry to cut in on this googer but where did you get those monkey boy? They are nice:D

The above ones are the Rubicon express ones.

Looks like yours are very much like the Currie Units.
http://128.121.255.231/images/jeepfullsize/johnnyJointRodEnds.jpg

Only thing I can think of is make sure the poly cup on the other side is seated properly against the washer.

perhaps you can fab up a quick clip install tool with two small pieces of tubing capped on one side that fit just inside the edge of the jonny tube.

Then use a C clamp to press things intoplace.

Thats what Rubicon express puts on the arms they make.

Makes it well worth the price of the arms don't it.

I believe they sell just the joint now for $50 bucks a pop.

I will deffinetly get these ones when I am doing the links for my buggy.

I have had them on my Daily driven and really worked over on the trail XJ for a while now and they are really nice.

I'll check back in to see how thigs are going when I get home from work.

See ya

Originally posted by Monkeyboy
I'll check back in to see how thigs are going when I get home from work.

See ya

well, thanks for the help. the joints you got are not much more expensive and WAY more user friendly for assembly and maintenace...guess ill sit back and stare at it with a beer in one hand and....

Monkey boy if its not to much trouble...could you give me the O.D. of those J.J.Rubicone express is just down the street!

Originally posted by Monkeyboy
These are the ones I have.
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/images/RE3791.jpg

Is that poly or plastic?

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/BBSups//DSCF0016.JPG

no dice, the vice is starting to crack:mad: kinda like my patience for allpros 'products'

I used a bearing press on mine that I got from currie, they are identical to the ones you got booger. They are a big PITA and the snap ring never did seat properly in mine either thats the last of those I will own:mad:

read what Chark said
this is the best idea so far
I have assembled all of mine in a press after I welded the sleave to my control arms and wondered how allpro was installing theirs once welded into the frame (ie geiger's buggy) I think Chark's idea of putting a long bolt through, then using tube and washers to compress the washer will work, do not worry about the snap ring for a bit, just get everything squashed together. then once you have the washer recessed about an 1/8th of an inch then you can get the snap ring compressed and into the sleave, though not into the groove, now use the tube/bolt thing and press the snap ring in until it snaps into place. it's alot easier with a press, but a good bolt will work I bet, plus you'll have a tool to rebuild it on the trail if need be.

good thing you welded it to the frame :D :D

While we are on the topic, I got a set of RE adjustable uppers with JJ ends. They were used so I got no instructions. What is the purpose of the little threaded stud that goes in next to the zerk fitting? I heard it is to adjust the tightness of the joint? how would you go about properly adjusting it?

thanks

Originally posted by BrettM
good thing you welded it to the frame :D :D

While we are on the topic, I got a set of RE adjustable uppers with JJ ends. They were used so I got no instructions. What is the purpose of the little threaded stud that goes in next to the zerk fitting? I heard it is to adjust the tightness of the joint? how would you go about properly adjusting it?

thanks

C'mon man, this ain't rocket science. The set screws locks the threaded ring in place by keying into one of the four slots on the circumference of the ring.

Back out the set screw, crank in the ring until the joint is tight, and lock the set screw back in place.

You shouldn't need instructions to figure that out.

While I'm on a roll, should I go into detail about how to change oil? :flipoff2: ... newbies ...

FYI for those of us in the salt belt of the midwest:

Swap out the plain steel set screws for some SS fasteners. I used some button head cap screws that were trimmed to the right length. I learned this trick after finding my set screws corroded into a mass of iron oxide after one winter. I managed to drill three of them out, but the fourth only came part way out. When I went to back out the threaded ring, I dragged a hunk of rusted set screw over the threads and jammed everything up. That was $45 down the drain.

cmk

the shiny ones are from rubicon express, the all pro units dont come with zerks and you couldnt possibly assemble them and then weld them. liquid poly doesnt make a functional 'johnny joint'. i cant imagine trying to assemble theses had i gone threw the frame instead of outboard to the rear

the threaded fastnener style on the end of the other(rubicon express model) would make the install a snap, instead ive got a snap ring piece of crap. neither side will go together, the vise is cracked, tomorrow the plasma torch comes out and ill see if rubicon express is open on saturdays.

i guess this can be considered a product reveiw, i can assure you that if i cannot assemble these, 90% of those on this board could not, my rig is built, not totally fabbed, but not bought. on a scale of 1-5 for product reveiw, these get a fuckin negative 69...

i need a beer............

Maybe All-Pro will want you to write a product review up:D

Not trying to be rude, but if all you ever do is bitch about All-Pro Products, why do you keep buying from them? Seems kind of retarded.

Just wondering. :D

Originally posted by cmk

C'mon man, this ain't rocket science. The set screws locks the threaded ring in place by keying into one of the four slots on the circumference of the ring.

Back out the set screw, crank in the ring until the joint is tight, and lock the set screw back in place.

You shouldn't need instructions to figure that out.
cmk

Despite the attitude, I appreciate your response. I know I could have figured it out, but I haven't even really looked at them yet. I just figured that while people are answering JJ questions, they might as well take 2 seconds and answer mine. Thanks again
:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by MudYoTa
Not trying to be rude, but if all you ever do is bitch about All-Pro Products, why do you keep buying from them? Seems kind of retarded.

Just wondering. :D

ive got a good $3500+ spent at all pro between the front, rear and canback, etc. i SWEAR by their springs and everything ive broke has been promptly replaced under warranty. if i bitch its pretty legit, ive broken A LOT of there EXPENSIVE shit and i WORK for my money. your not being rude, i hear what youre sayin...

Not trying to be rude, but if all you ever do is bitch about All-Pro Products, why do you keep buying from them? Seems kind of retarded.
Yea, have you ever gone to the Toyota threads and seen all the negative responses for All-Pro. A buddy of mine said there is a thread over 7 pages long just talking about what shit service they get from them.
Just my .02
The only problem I had with the Rubicon Express is that it took over 3 weeks to get them. They make 3 different sizes and I think the make a shitload of one size one week then tool up and make a different size the next week.
If they are out, you have to wait till they make them again.
They were worth the wait though, much better than a heim and about the same $.

Originally posted by 350Samurai

Yea, have you ever gone to the Toyota threads and seen all the negative responses for All-Pro. A buddy of mine said there is a thread over 7 pages long just talking about what shit service they get from them.
Just my .02
The only problem I had with the Rubicon Express is that it took over 3 weeks to get them. They make 3 different sizes and I think the make a shitload of one size one week then tool up and make a different size the next week.
If they are out, you have to wait till they make them again.
They were worth the wait though, much better than a heim and about the same $.


i'd take All pro's service over Rubicon expresses, but that's just my experience.

Originally posted by Booger Weldz
http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/BBSups//DSCF0016.JPG

no dice, the vice is starting to crack:mad: kinda like my patience for allpros 'products'

You need to replace that piece of 1x2 with a piece of pipe the same diameter as the joint housing. It will never work the way you have it. you are compressing the ball against the bushing instead of pushing the bushing into the housing.

they go together real easy if you do it right.

out of all the replys and "comments" no one has mentioned

LUBRICATION !!!!!

+ I sanded a small taper on both leading edges that get pushed in and slaped some anti seize on it all. and a 6" c-clamp and some misc. stuff to make it press right did the trick.

Before the lube it just would musroom the poly and not move well...

-yag

I had a tough time with my JJ's but then used a balljoint (c-clamp) press with a couple larger sockets and the snap rings dropped in with no problems.

as far as the threaded vs snap rings. I've had my JJ's for over 2 years now and they havn't loosened 1bit. Where was I've heard from a number of folks that have had to adjust (tighten) their RE joints a couple times since they bought them. Maybe is has to do with the poly compound/density of the race used in each.

:beer:

Something I noticed with mine...I had trouble getting a few of mine to go together, so I took them back apart and noticed that a small amount of the poly had gotten shaved off by the groove for the snap ring and had rolled up on top of the bushing, so I was trying to mash this rolled up part flat. It won't mash!
I took the bushing out and shaved this lip off with a razor blade, lubed it up and it went right in.

Originally posted by BrettM
Despite the attitude, I appreciate your response.

Thanks again
:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Get used to it, this is PBB. :flipoff2:

cmk

Originally posted by zukipuke
out of all the replys and "comments" no one has mentioned

LUBRICATION !!!!!



-yag

BullShit..........Lubracation was brought up, in fact go back and read the post....over greesing was sugested as a cause for them not going togather..... He may have used too much greese one suggested....practing selective reading? Com Awn!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by SeaBass44


practing selective reading? Com Awn!:flipoff2:

Ohhh shitt man i forgot to remove my SB-filter.... off my screen...it help me to quickly scan every thread for the "real" information...

http://www.gozukin.com/pics/sbfilter.jpg

-heheh no my bad, i really didn't read the first page ..... but since im the only one that does that, this is just another reason why im unique... :D

-yag

Originally posted by zukipuke


Ohhh shitt man i forgot to remove my SB-filter.... off my screen...it help me to quickly scan every thread for the "real" information...

http://www.gozukin.com/pics/sbfilter.jpg

-heheh no my bad, i really didn't read the first page ..... but since im the only one that does that, this is just another reason why im unique... :D

-yag

lol, BaWaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa...where can I get a SB-Filter system........they sell that at "Staples":D

hey i am with you guys i have the allpro ones and it took me 8 hours to make my links and 10 hours to assemble my joints i used two sockets a vise and a shit load of marine grease after they are all together it is kind of scary because you cant tell if the snap ring is fully seated, after it is all said and done i think i should have just went with tried and true rod ends ohhh well just my two cents