: wiring an sr5 tach


HaZarD2600
08-09-2002, 09:37 PM
How do I wire a tachometer from an '88 sr5 cluster to my '88 22re non-sr5? When refrencing the wire diagram in my chilton, it's saying the wire from the cluster is "purple and oarnge" there isn't any by that color. help!

Booger Weldz
08-09-2002, 09:47 PM
when i did this ifound something in the arcives that said the efi trucks/4runners already are wired for the tach regardless if it came with that sr5 gauge cluster. sure enough mine is workin and it didnt come with the sr5 stuff prior to the swap...you might be in luck!

DO NOT hook up the original oil sending unit, itll roast the sr5 meter. you gotta get the sr5 sending unit!!!!

HaZarD2600
08-09-2002, 10:17 PM
i did swap out the oil sending unit. but the oil guage, tach, and fuel guage don't work. maybe I just got a crap cluster.

emsoffroad
08-09-2002, 11:54 PM
Yep my 86 I just pluged it in and it worked. I didn't change the oil sending unit and it just peged the oil guage to 0 until I changed it, about 4 months later. And it still works.

fabricator
08-10-2002, 04:54 AM
Just plug it in, thats all you do.

CRS
08-10-2002, 10:04 AM
The idea crosed my mind also so went and picked up a cluster aat the local boneyard and plug it in. Everyone says it would work iwas already wired for it. NOPE i know now that an 85 carb 22r does not have the wiring in it for the cluster. So i am tearing up my budys dash in his 85 22re sr5 to trace the wiring harness and tap in to it so my cluster will have a tach all the other things work and you do have to change the oil sending unit. If i am wrong somebody let me know cause it has been a bioocth to trace the wirin harness.:beer: :usa:

HaZarD2600
08-10-2002, 11:41 AM
the message I'm getting from everyone so far is that if it's a 4 cylinder '84-'88, then it'll work simply by plugging it all in. I just have to find a cluster that I know works!

Yardsale
08-12-2002, 05:58 PM
I'm thinking it's not the '84-88, but the EFI that makes the difference.

Anyway, I believe that the signal for the taac. comes from the positive side of the coil - confirm this and run your own wire (in whatever color you want). Or, get an ohm meter and figure out which wire (regardless of color) provides the signal and from where in another truck. Once you know where the signale comes from, find the one in your truck or use a new one.

Note - I have several wires that change color between the sensor and ECU (etc.), so there is a game to play with this.

rockis hopperis
08-13-2002, 08:06 AM
I have swapped in dashes between all different years of toyota pickups, and there are different wiring combinations for dashes depending on the truck you have. An automatic or turbo or efi or carb all have different combinations of wires that go into the cluster. You can run a wire from the coil to the tach and it will work. I have done this before using the hunt and peck method until the tach started to work.

Jay

woody99
08-13-2002, 08:36 AM
When I put in the non SR5 85 wiring harness into my 83 the SR5 tach did work fine.

Only problem is the oil pressure and I guess I have to get an SR5 sending unit.

Thanks guys.

CRS
08-13-2002, 09:15 AM
Ok so when you run the wire from the coil cause i found it and now all i have to do is get it to the cluster. They have the white clips that plug the wires into the cluster so how do i tap in to that.:beer: :usa:

EWong
08-13-2002, 01:50 PM
Last SR5 cluser I took apart -t he tach is bolted to the cluser with 2 or three bolts (I recal three). These are just like an after market tach..
ground
12v
Ign signal

I think they are even marked as such on the trace pattern.

Use a small "ring" connector and sip it under the bolt. Add a qucik disconnect bullet or spade connector if yer anal and run yer own wire to to the coil.

Yardsale
08-13-2002, 06:57 PM
And if you're really anal ...

The connectors have "pins" in them that are held in place by a section of the pin material that is cut (In kind of a 90* U shape) and bent such that it springs out and catches on a little protrusion on the inside of the connector. If you want, you can get a (very) small piece of metal that you can weasel (I think that's the technical term) the spring away from the connector with and the pin will come out. Typically, these springs can be gotten to from the connecting side (side opposite the wires). You'll have to play with it some, but they are typically doable. Once the pin is out, you can attach your wire to it and snap it back in.

Another way is to splice the coil wire into the wire going into the connector and call it good.