I'm getting the pieces together for the swap. What are ya'll using for a pitman arm w/ a D60 hy-steer? I haven't bought the arms yet, and I am open to all suggestions.
I have an SOA, SRS w/ 2.5" Wrangler springs, going outboard w/ the same springs I have now, possibly going to 4.5" springs when I get some more money together.
PS, I did a search, but I guess I don't know what word to search with.
edit: It's an '85 CJ7

Here is a link to the info on the Dana 60 High Clearance Steering Arms (for Hummer or non Hummer rims) that a local shop patterned after the ones I made.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58450&perpage=20&pagenumber=5

I am running a custom pitman arm, that is build to the Grand Waggy specs. If you are comfortable with the strength of a waggy pitman arm, that may fit the bill for you.

I hope this helps you get some ideas of what you want to do. IT sounds like you are on a good path for a great setup.

Ed

I use a Skyjacker 4" drop wagoneer pitman arm on my YJ. It will work for your CJ also. If you don't like the beef of a stock waggy get this one. It comes out to be over twice as big as stock. Either way the length of the waggy will allow for very tight steering (depending on where you attach your draglink)

What's the diff between the Waggy pitman arm and the CJ pitman? I have a dropped CJ pitman now.

Originally posted by JeepinIan
What's the diff between the Waggy pitman arm and the CJ pitman? I have a dropped CJ pitman now.

The angles are very similar but the Waggy arm is over a inch longer so your steering can have more throw.

With the arm an 1" longer, will it hit the tie rod if it is in front of the axle?

Contact between the drag-link and Tie-rod is dependant upon where you position them on your high steer arms. The Avalanche arm have holes thruoughout the arm and you attach them in the right place to prevent interference. If you get your own (like I did) you just measure the distances from the knuckle for both tie rod and drag-link to prevent interference. Then you have the holes reamed accordingly in those locations to accept whatever rod ends you want.

If that's too much touble for you now you can get 1 high steer arm and run cross-over steering. Leave your tie-rod in the stock location and wheel until it's bent. Then you have time to observe where your drag-link travels. Next you just get a second arm / drill your first to accept a tie-rod.