This is a repost from the Toy forum:


(Take it as a compliment as you boys still rock the leaf springs like me)





I see that most companies sell shackles between the length of 4.5" to 6". Stock are 3.5" if I remember right. What do you guys think is the best size?

This is the reason for my question. I am not looking to lift the rig, actually just the opposite. I want to keep it as low as possible. I do know that a shackle that is to short will limit travel (droop mostly) and that a shackle that is to long will have side to side deflection without a brace and give me unwanted lift.

depends on how you are building. As the arch of your springs increase a longer shackle allows them to use all of their travel without hitting the frame. If you have zero lift springs, you can run a shorter shackle, save the lift and be just fine. As the springs go negative, the shackle will pull away from the frame. Some people run longer shackles to bandaid castor issues as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=719565

this should help

Thanks, but I have been there already.


I just went at it alone on my build and will figure it out as problems arise.

I think that way to many people now just plug in the "kit" that they buy. I figure that is the reason for the lack of responce.

Fairly simple to figure out.

Measure the length of the spring when the main is flat. You can measure the eye to eye distance when sitting in a free arch (not on the rig) state as well. Little bit of trig, and youll find what the minim shackle length you need if you know what shackle angle you want when the spring is flat, and rough guess on angle you want on droop (you dont want to have the shackle go in line with the main)

The more arch the spring has the more length change you will have.

FWIW we're 5" on the front, and I think 5.5 on the rear. 45" front springs, now 52" rear springs. And those shackle lengths are more than enough.

I would say to make them as long as you can. This will minimize the change in shackle angle throughout spring flex. Now, with that said, long shackles bring their own problems cause you have to worry about them bending on a side load. I always wanted to mount the shackle to the top of the frame on the front axle. You would have to fabricate your own shackle to make it strong but it would be bitchen.
We have already prooved that a fabricated long shackle in the rear works well mounted to the top of the rear x-member.

45" front springs, now 52" rear springs.

Did you move your frontmost hangers when you changed rear springs? Or just different position of centerbolt / shackle mount? I bent my wranglers first time out, and can't find any for a decent price, just to pull them apart. Might just have to run Marlin/TG/AP fronts on both ends to make it sit right.

[QUOTE=desertoy;8962228]I would say to make them as long as you can. This will minimize the change in shackle angle throughout spring flex. QUOTE]


Why is the change in shackle angle not desirable?

Is the directional force on the tires lessend as the shackle pivots past vertical causing loss of traction?

I would say to make them as long as you can. This will minimize the change in shackle angle throughout spring flex. Now, with that said, long shackles bring their own problems cause you have to worry about them bending on a side load. I always wanted to mount the shackle to the top of the frame on the front axle. You would have to fabricate your own shackle to make it strong but it would be bitchen.
We have already prooved that a fabricated long shackle in the rear works well mounted to the top of the rear x-member.

I do like the shorter shackles, setup right, as they seem harder to invert. The around-the-back rear shackles cant do this, but a stop on the front shackles would be necessity in my mind.

Did you move your frontmost hangers when you changed rear springs? Or just different position of centerbolt / shackle mount? I bent my wranglers first time out, and can't find any for a decent price, just to pull them apart. Might just have to run Marlin/TG/AP fronts on both ends to make it sit right.

1. tracbar
2. spring clamps, several
3. yes moved it forward. Total result was rear moved back 1/2" to get tires out of the side tubes. shackle mount moved back
4. If you pick up something else, just dont buy garbage. For more YJ, try schleppy.

So, you actually cut the front hanger off and moved it forward? What springs did you use?

So, you actually cut the front hanger off and moved it forward? What springs did you use?

yup

mazda hybrid, the origin of the "5" longer rear" :p

Thanks,
And I know what you mean about garbage... I think we had that conversation before:D

Also, what did you do with the ones you took off yours? Did you change the fronts as well?

Thanks,
And I know what you mean about garbage... I think we had that conversation before:D

Also, what did you do with the ones you took off yours? Did you change the fronts as well?

rear takeoff are hanging out as spares fro the fronts. Fronts are still unchanged, though fresh packs will be put in sometime close to KOH.

what type of yj springs are you running?

what type of yj springs are you running?

YJ 5 leaf packs, mix and match with other leaves for desired spring rate, height and a military wrap on the front eye.

Nice, Really like the low stance, of your f-toy, want to try and do something similar to my truck, much like the yellow tacoma you guys built.