I have an '83 CJ-7 w/258,SM465,4:1 D300, D30 frontend, AMC20 rear. Locked. 35" BFG MT KM's.Tired of breaking weanie 260 ujoints, but don't wanna spend $$ polishing a turd(don't want to throw alloy shafts in a D30) or adding another increment(don't wanna do an allout build on the D44) before getting my D60 front end(which I can't afford right now).
I have a D44 from a '77 J20, 8 lug, 1/2" thick tubes. I was wondering if I could (after I narrow the longside):
Use the outer knuckle and everything else from my CJ D30 along with a 297 alloy outer shaft to bolt onto the 44?
Will the throw of the alloy D30 outer match the throw of the D44 stock inner?
Will the 297's clear inside the outer CJ D30 knuckle? Aren't 260's and 297's the same length from endcap to endcap? Just differen't diameter?
This would give me a larger R&P, and a lil' bit more width up front for a better turning radius. Not to mention 297's. I wouldn't have the hi-steer option for later, but I just want a quick fix for a while 'til I get a 60 frontend. (already got a 14 bolt and a rear 60 that I'm storing for future use)
If this'll work, all I would need to buy is the alloy outers, balljoints, have the longside inner shaft cut/resplined, used matching R&P for D44(weld the diff), maybe shorten the driveshaft, and fab some linkage.
I did a search on this:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63987&highlight=Dana+30+knuckles+on+a+Dana44
Now, Monkeyboy states:
Early dana 30 outers and dana44 outers are interchangable
He means outer knucks and everything else(calipers,brackets, discs,etc.) right?
I have read that the flat top 44 knucks will bolt onto the CJ D30 inner knucks. So it makes sense that the D30 outer knucks will bolt onto the D44 that came with the flat tops, right? This is what I got from the '77 J20.
This is rambling on and on...let me know if you think it'll work. I can't tear apart my frontend right now to see, and this ? is burning a hole in my brain. Thanks-SSS

Your idea sounds like it may work. I have Alloy shafts and 297's in my 30 " I got them used for 100 bucks"
I bet you could trade some one the 8 lug outers for small bearing outers and Bronco Rotors. Then you would have the stronger internal splined hub.

Jayzus, that was quick!
Sounds like you got a good deal on the shafts, CJ. Thanks for your opinion as to whether I can cobble all this together. As far as the sm bearing outers go, I think you are talking about the hubs, right? Well, I upgraded to Superwinch locking hubs a while back and have 5 stock hubs already for spares. Thanks for the idea.
This ain't gonna be as cheap as I thought:
2) upper balljoints= $26
2) lower balljoints= $40
2)alloy D30 stubs=$250($120 each then S/H)
Linkage material=$200(4 Heims or TRE's and DOM)(taps?$$)
Used D44 3.54's= $50?
Shorten'd Driveshaft=myself
Welded diff=myself
setup gears=myself
fabbing linkage=myself
Still looking at around $600, Bummer. I could get the complete set of alloy shafts for that much.
Anybody got any cheapskate ideas?
I know someone that had their CJ D30 shafts milled to accept 297's, but I just snapped the shortside inner ear off, and snapped it inside the housing at the same time, not to mention the obliterated 260. That was at an idle in a crack in the dirt, not rock. So I don't like stock D30 shafts and don't think milling them would do anything but make it weaker.
Is there a stronger stock stubshaft for a different application that would work instead of the alloy D30 stubs?
Anybody care to donate a set of used D44 3.54's? Brahahahaha!
Thanks again, SSS

scout II stub axles are the same as jeep dana 30's in length, diameter, and spline count but they do take a 297 joint.

Aggro, that was exactly what I wanted to know. Are they any beefier in the ear area than the CJ D30? Do you think they are stronger than milling out the CJ stubs? 'preciate it, Shell

I used D-30 hubs and spindles on my waggy front D-44. I used Scout outer stubs (as aggro mentioned, 297X).
Bought the internal spline hub kit and outer axleshafts from Warn. However, mine are all 30 spline (inner and outer).

Re the scout II stubs-Are they any beefier in the ear area than the CJ D30? Do you think they are stronger than milling out the CJ stubs? 'preciate it, Shell

they are as "beefy" as a dana 44 axle can be. don't sneeze with your right foot touching the gas or you'll pop 'em (not the ear, the shaft in the spindle)

Talked to Randy's today, the guy said the ScoutII stubs were 25-30% stronger stock for stock compared to the D30's. Said it was due to the way it was cast to accept the 297's. Sounds like the way to go, I'm looking around for some used ones to get me by for a while. Randy's will have a 4340 ScoutII stub available in about 12 weeks. Selling for $67 each. Pretty cheap.

Randys Alloy stuff is junk from what I have been hearing from quite a few people. Just pick up some stock scout ones and call it good. To me it sounds like you need to jack up the front of your Jeep, crank the wheel and make sure you aren't jetting u-jont bind due to too sharp of turning radious.

I was leary of Randy's price, wonder what sorta warranty they give out? I'm looking for a used set for now. I'll check out the bind once I get the D30 back together. I sheared it clean at the splines on the shortside and it's still stuck in there for now. Couldn't get around the crosspin to pound it out from the longside, tomorrow I'll try to remove the carrier for better access. I don't know if that's it though, I've never broken a ujoint at full-lock and I wasn't at full lock when all this happened. I think it's just a tad puny and abused. Thanks for the input, Shell

A friend and I did the same think you are thinking of. We started with a d44 from a J20 and cut the tubes down and welded knuckles to the ends. Then we poped the outers out of a CJ d30 and put them into the new knuckles. We reused the hubs, breaks and ball joints. The CJ hubs are 27 spline and the same as the Scout II stubs. After installing the outters we measured for the inners and sent the original inners to Dutchmans to be cut down. We elected to use regular strength shafts because of cost, low hp and the 35's. We will eventually upgrade it to high alloys.

You can see the short side here w/out the axles. Sorry it's the only pic I have.

http://www.delawareja.com/gallery/albums/Jump150/aak.sized.jpg

DE, yep that's exactly what I was gonna do except just narrowing the long side. I'm not SOA so I don't need to change caster. Then I found some more damage...
66, thanks for the tip on checking ujoint clearance while it's on the stands. Full lock didn't break it. I think I bent the knuckle...the lower ball joint looks pulled out. I'm not even sure how safe this is to drive on the road?
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d632b3127cce9fccf295930d0000001410
This next one shows the little clearance the ujoint had. This is with the wheels straight, when I had'm cocked, it was WAY tighter. The other side looks fine.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d632b3127cce9fccf20412ac0000001410
Anyway, I guess I need to use the flattop knucks that came on the D44 since they look a lil' stronger. There is a small crack in the D30 knuckle where the ujoint or axle ear bound up against it. Couldn't get a good pic of it.
I have the calipers, brackets, etc. that came off the J20. I guess that will all work as long as I swap out to the '77? waggy 5lug rotor? Will the '83 style broke hoses hook up to the caliper?
Thanks, SSS

I used 77-78 Big CJ rotors with the Waggy caliper brackets and calipers. Used the CJ hub and spindles on the waggy knuckles.

Does anyone know whether the '77 J20 calipers and brackets are the same as the waggy stuff? If so, I can use them and get the big CJ rotor, right? Anyone know whether the '83 brake hoses will work on this? Thanks, SSS

I believe they are the same. I don't have two right now to compare side by side. A while back, I pulled the brakes off a J-20 and slapped them on a waggy I had kicking around, i don't recall any fitment issues.

Grendel, the J20 disc measures 12.25" dia. if that helps you.