hey guys i just bought my ax10 i would like to get a tube chassi for it but i have herd there are better chassi out there. what do you think. and where do you get these parts. and do they really cost as much as they say?? thanks.

MFM Racing (http://mfmracing.com/mfm_001.htm) makes a killer chassis for the AX-10. It's a direct replacement, and priced good too. I used one before I switched over to the FLM SPV2,

Fast Lane Machine (http://www.fastlanemachine.com/PublicPortal/) also makes a chassis that is a direct replacement for the AX-10. I just bought one and am building it up at the moment. It's price and quality is excellent, also.

For a direct bolt on replacement that captures the look of a tuber, The Crawler Store makes this Edge (http://www.tcscrawlers.com/On-Sale-20-off-TCS-Edge-AX10-Scorpion-Direct-Bolt-on-Tube-Frame-Black-US-Patent-Pending-Now-Semi-Gloss-p-16621.html). I don't have any experience with this chassis, but have heard good things about it....

Here's a good tube chassis.

http://rcpcrawlers.com/images/P/xl_12302.jpg

Kit Includes:

* TCC Hustler Tube Chassis

* Complete Clear (Lexan) Body Panel Set

* Full Set Of Suspension Links (12.5" Wheel Base)

* Servo/link mount plates

* Internal Shock Spring For Droop Set Up

* Traxxas Maxx shocks

* Skid plate accepts both Stampede or R2 tranny

http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.php?productid=795

That's a kick ass chassis, too. Only problem is availability.... I contacted RCP a while back and asked when the would have more in and they pretty much told me to not hold my breath. They pop up on the classifieds on RCC every now and then, though....

If I were to fully do competition I would get that chassis.
Every Friday night I found out they have a comp going on somewhere down in Santa Anita near the horse race track somewhere, I'm going to sign up and start going just to see what I'll be up against, a lot of these guys run really weird shit.
Such as a 1000wt. oil and no coils, no uptravel, some down travel, they were saying a lot of travel will hurt you in the comps, which I don't see how that would hurt me. But I'm gonna check out what people are doing, so I can convert mine a little more to a comp rig and kick all of their asses.:D

True, a lot run weird setups. I'm trying out a full droop front/sprung rear on my new crawler....
Our rocks up here don't like droop, so we'll see what happens....

Why the droop front and spring rear combination if I may ask? that seems a little odd. I can see as if it were acting like a winch on the front axle while doing hill climbs though.

Why the droop front and spring rear combination if I may ask? that seems a little odd. I can see as if it were acting like a winch on the front axle while doing hill climbs though.
Yep, we crawl steep, jagged rocks here...

one more reason for running droop front and sprung rear is to eliminate torque twist

I say death metal garage for all your tuber needs.. all aluminum construction killer weld work and priced better then most of those heavy steel tubers.. and polished to high gloss they just look like art sitting on the rocks..

keep in mind with a DMG chassis you will drop weight with the other tubers you gain weight and with the higher COG lose performance..

I just came across DMG this morning, those are awesome chassis.

And I've been a fan of death metal since I was in 7th grade, so...I think it would go well with me and my preferences! just kidding.:homer:

But I do like the chassis'.

death metal is a nice feature to forgot that one... :grinpimp: did you see the snipe for the MRC that this is just sick wish he would do a bigger version of that, maybe I should just ask him... :p

Don't think I ever heard of MRC or snipe. I tried a google search and nothing came up. I guess I'll try on RCcrawler.com

I have a edge chassis and absolutely love it. I have beaten the hell out of it.
I rand droop only in the front and sprung in the rear. This helped with hill climbs and steep ascents. It is not that travel is bad, it is that too much of it will really get you in a bind in a lot of places. Your tires will find any hole you go over. And with anything more than say 70* of articulation, you will start to see your rig get real tippy sidehilling an obstical. I switched back to sprung in the front with shorter aluminum shocks and this works so much better. Typically you will see supers run full droop, 2.2's don't do so well.

I run droop on most of my 2.2's, it's driver pref as to running sprung or droop. As for tubers check out K-9 on RCC. I have 3 of his FatDogs. They are sick! The Fatdogs have won quite a few comp! I have a Edge as well, looks good but not a comp chassis at all! DMG is making nice stuff though with his all aluminum stuff! Just my 2 cents:smokin:

I may have spoken out of line. I built a RC crawler that is basically what I would like to have sitten in my garage. I have mine set up to "trail" ride with all my friends, some comp some do not, with that said the set ups are different for comp rigs and trail rigs. No rear steer is allowed in 2.2 comps. I love my rear steer on my Edge, it looks very real being that I spend most of my time on the rocks. I do not do comps. Although I have not seen many comp rigs that are droop and I do have quite a few buddies that do comps. Most comp winning rigs are not tubers for the 2.2 class. They are like the gc-1 chassis, the fatdog chassis, etc. with bug or the losi grappler bodies on them.

Like he said, it is all driver preference. At the same time, a chassis change from the stock ax-10 chassis is a night and day difference.

I run a Grappler/stock chassis and R2 dig. I'm attempting to do a 'modded' droop set up, aiming to get my lower links parallel to flat ground, and save some belly height.
I just ordered a set of Mayhem Eng. Comp Phatty's with Losi Rock Claws.

Almost ready for comp.