Well I lucked out and got this CJ10-A for $1100
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/JeepTug.jpg

I after one hell of an ordeal with Government Liquidation and 2 months later, I brought it home on Wednesday. That little turd's heavy! I pulled it home with my dad's F150 since my Cummins dually had gotten a hole in the radiator. It wasn't fun.

The Jeep was contracted for a short period to build aircraft tugs for the US military. They used the cab of the CJ10 built in Australia. Only around 2100 or so were built. It has a "Nissan SD33 inline six, 90 hp 175 lbft of torque, TF727 3sp auto, NP198 transfer locked into low range, Dana 70U rear that is 75" WMS-WMS 4.88 gears with a power lock. sitting on a HD FSJ Waggy frame with a dummy D44 tube housing in the front."(jeepinwilson)


It has a super short wheelbase as is, and very heavy metal "bed" that'll be the first thing to come off.

I'm starting fairly mild on this project since I still have a my mud truck completely tore down. But I couldn't pass on the opportunity to have such a unique crawler.
I'm gonna start by stretching the wheelbase and I'm going to make a bed out of a wrecked CJ7 tub that I'm going to comp cut with Gen Right corner guards.
I'm just going to go spring over for now and run a set of 36" Goodyear R/T IIs on H1s 'cuz I got a bunch of 'em.
I'm basically goin' for this for now:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/CJ10ATug032.jpg
courtesy of Jeepinwilson

My best bet would probably be to go with a Dana 60 with dually hubs up front to match the rear, but that's just not in the cards for now.

I'm thinkin' about sellin' the 70U and pickin' up a 14 bolt rear and Ford 44 for the front. I'm gonna recenter the H1s for the optimum width and I'll probably be running a 37" tire within a year.

I know I could do good with just a 208 or Dana 300, but I was thinkin' about running a doubler. If I did go doubler I'd want 2 cases with low ranges that aren't really close. That way I have a wider range of ratios.
Since I'm gonna stick with the Nissan Diesel for now, I might need range of gears optimize it's wheelin' ability.

I'm considering runnin' XJ rear leafs to extend the wheelbase, but I'm thinkin' of 4 linking the rear on air shocks or maybe just some TJ coils or something.

I'm really up to suggestions as I'm a total Jeep newb(but I've been searchin' and reading since I saw this thing) and this'll be my first crawler.

thats a pretty cool rig

Cool! glad to see another being built up. Here is mine with the current bed I am building.
Sorry for the crappy pictures, but you get the idea... I have some military lights I am going to be installing in the bed under the upper tube.... :)
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/downsized_1102081420a.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/CJ10Bed.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/downsized_1102081420.jpg

Very nice:D I have always thought those were really cool. Keep the pictures coming of your build up.

the bed is heavy but the weight under it is heavier.. I just picked up a 88 Waggoneer for axles to convert mine to 4wd.. I originally put a dodge T case in mine and a 8.74 rear axle for highway speed.. cby the way the D70 is way wider than any other rear axle..

I know. It was crazy how much the 05 F150 struggled to tow that thing. It was practically on the bump stops.

The rear was too wide to drive it far enough onto the trailer, so they picked it up with a giant fork lift and sat it on the trailer backwards(I'll take pics later) so it would have enough tongue weight.

I figure I need to at least pull the bed and stuff to get it off the trailer. I might even pull the rear and throw a 10 bolt or something back there so I can roll it off.

they weigh over 6000 pounds in stock form, the slab in the back weighs something around 1200-1400 pounds and then the turtle back, fenders, and bumpers on top of that all 1/4" or thicker. The front bumper weighed over 200 pounds itself (1/2' thick chanel). So you will easily shed a couple thousand pounds of useless weight.

Yeah the only thing I'm keepin' out of that craps the pintles. I'll probably keep the tool box for my trailer.

I'm gonna have a 4 point interior cage and I might try and have some bracing come back into the bed the way BTF did their scrambler that had the cage go through the top.
..........

What would be a good doubler set up for this rig?
I'd love to have like a 2:1 low range case and 2.7-3:1 case mated together.

You could use a (Dodge) 203 to a D300 would be your best bet for that gearing and strength. 1.98:1 on the 203 and 2.62:1 on the 300. But because you have a TF727 which has a 23 spline output and a round 6 bolt setup it will take a little work to mate up a 203 (redrilling the face of a Dodge 203 is about it) or you could go with a NP231 2.72:1? to a D300. Not as strong as the 203 setup and it would bolt right up to your trans, but you would still need the adapter setup to the 300.

jeepinwilson that jeep is freakin sweeett. I love the bed you are building do you have a build page?

Thanks for the comment! I do not have a build page yet, I was kinda waiting till I got it further before I start one. I do not want to hijack Tawl Boys build with a bunch of pics of mine, just sharing some info with him.

theres one of those things here in town, i think ill buy it and start a build :flipoff2:

At the moment, this is a planning thread. The build will begin soon. I've taken a some more pics and stuff today. I'll get 'em loaded later.

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I think it's in good shape.

With the battery charged it turns right over, but it's not starting up. There's even smoke from the exhaust, so it's gettin' fuel.

All the guages and electronics work fine.

Any ideas.

Cool little rig. I like that tube bed above alot personally. What are you thinking about for the length of the wheel base. A four link would be cool for sure IMHO.

Keep us posted, interested to see how this turns out

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I think it's in good shape.

With the battery charged it turns right over, but it's not starting up. There's even smoke from the exhaust, so it's gettin' fuel.

All the guages and electronics work fine.

Any ideas.

are you cycling the glow plugs? you could give it a small shot of ether and try it or it could be a bad solenoid which you can check by having someone turn the key on while you watch it.. if it is not working you can disconnect it off the fuel shut off arm and it should start up.

Here is a pic of my brothers Tug, we bought it when i was still stock. never could get the engine running thought.
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo252/rockcrawler95/pittsfieldsafari034.jpg

Definately check to make sure the glow plugs are cycling. Does it have a block heater? if it does try plugging it in that will help out. I know it being in Texas may not have been equipped with it but they do make a world of difference if it is chilly out. Mine was from Kansas and has two oil pan heaters, a battery heater and a coolant heater with a built in fused outlet box to plug in all the cords, odd contraption.... anyway check the glow plug resistance and see if they are getting voltage, you can bypass the glowplug control box and wire in a standard relay and a push button to fire them manually. Mine starts right up after letting them heat up for about 20-40 seconds and after it is warm you do not have to mess with them unless you let it cool off for a long time. Do not touch the throttle pedal while trying to start it, it will not start it will flood.

I think that is awesome

I had a truck with the 4 cylinder version of that motor in it, putting a turbo on it really woke it up.
________
affair Cams (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/housewives/)

The solenoid seems to be working. I hear it click when I turn the key to the start position.

I think it does have a block heater. There's something coming out of the bottoms of the oil pan.

I was giving it throttle, so that could have been a problem. I haven't checked the glow plugs. I do drive an 04 cummins, but I haven't had to do serious stuff to it.

How do I go about checking the glow plugs?

www.binderbulletin.org has the info on what the resistance should be (easily tested with the glow plug in the head), but you can easily check to see if you are getting the voltage to the string of glow plugs by probing the hot wire when the ignition is in the ON position. Definately do not hit the throttle, I made that mistake several times trying to figure out why it would not start when I got mine and kept it puking black smoke while I cranked. The injector pump is vacuum operated and the throttle valve opening makes it dump more fuel into the cylinders essentially flooding it before it can fire. Let it sit, plug it in, then let the glow plugs warm up and hit the key and you should be golden. The clicking you hear may be the run-start-stop motor engaging and not necessarily be the glow plugs cycling.

It'll be a little bit before I can mess with it again, but I'm tryin' to pick up the CJ7 tub soon.

Here is a pic of my brothers Tug, we bought it when i was still stock. never could get the engine running thought.
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo252/rockcrawler95/pittsfieldsafari034.jpg

What's the wheelbase on that? If I don't stretch the jeep tub, then my bed'll be just like that but with the Gen Right comp cut corners.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go ahead and 4 link it with air shocks in the rear.

What travel air shock do you think I should go for? I don't mind cuttin' into the bed or anything.
Do you think a 3/4" heim would be enough? I've got several layin' around.

I might go bushings on one end and heims(or johnny joints) on the other.

jeepinwilson, what's your wheelbase?

113" the last I checked, it may be sitting at about 114" now after the suspension settled and I got some weight on it.

What's the wheelbase on that? If I don't stretch the jeep tub, then my bed'll be just like that but with the Gen Right comp cut corners.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go ahead and 4 link it with air shocks in the rear.

What travel air shock do you think I should go for? I don't mind cuttin' into the bed or anything.
Do you think a 3/4" heim would be enough? I've got several layin' around.

I might go bushings on one end and heims(or johnny joints) on the other.

In that picture it was at 93" and the body sits on a YJ frame. Now I have stretched it to 100". It definitely works better and keeps the tires out of the body.

Best pic I've got.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b102/jeepkid88/DSC09694.jpg

did you get it running yet?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f15/mrfordboy001/RandomPictures091.jpg

not the best but here is another pic of nightriders 10a

I have owned 2 Nissan SD33 non-turbo trucks (one scout, on CJ10A) and you had to hold the glow plug switch ON for a FULL MINUTE to get them to start if they hadn't run the same day.

Both of them had been converted to a heavy amp pushbutton switch for the glow plugs. (the scout may have been stock? - been several years)


IMHO, start out with an NP 208 out of a waggy or cherokee (FSJ). That will bolt straight in and get you going while you figure out a doubler.

peace
Dave

hey tawl boy,

can you post some pics of the dummy 44 ?

there is a pic on the 1st page. It is just a straight tube with D44 C's and knuckles on it. Not really a dummy 44, just D44 outers.

It'll be Thanksgiving before I can touch it again. I figure I'll be able to get it started then.
I lined out a CJ7 tub that I'll be picking up soon to make the bed.

Any tips on installin' a switch to the glow plugs? I guess it's probably not hard to trace out the wires.

Will a Dana 300 bolt up?

d.d.machine has a 231 crawlbox kit. So, I'm thinkin' either go 231 to 231 w/ 4:1 kit. Or a 231 to 205.

I need to check to see if you can run a Ford 205 off of it, or I might have to look into a passenger diff axle.

you might be better off getting a driver side drop axle, the front shaft is too close to the trans on the passenger side, and if you run a 44 you will most likely have to run a 2 piece shaft in the front to clear it. A driver side will get you a lot more clearance. Yes a Dana 300 will bolt right up, but a doubler would be cool.

My $900 tow truck has more then paid for itself:
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/100_1354.jpg

We just picked it up with the F500 and loader and pulled the trailer out from under it.

.......
I think I'm gonna go ahead and go with a HP 60 up front. That'll definitely up the total cost cuz now the 36s will be too small, since I might as well build the suspension for the max tire size I plan to run.

I'm thinkin' 42s. I just don't know how to tell the wife.

I doubt I can cut the front fender much because of their design. I am comp cutting the bed. Tube fenders up front would work, but then I'd loose the look.
.......

D.D.Machine hasn't responded to my PMs about a doubler setup. I guess I'll have to try and call during hours.

Any ideas suggestions on a setup to run behind the 727?

I might go ahead an swap in a manual. This would probably give me more room for a doubler.

What's a good option? Will CJ7 or YJ clutch assemblies work?

I doubt I can cut the front fender much because of their design. I am comp cutting the bed. Tube fenders up front would work, but then I'd loose the look.

Not really a problem in my eyes.I don't like the fenders.Throw some tubes on it.

I might go ahead an swap in a manual. This would probably give me more room for a doubler.

What's a good option? Will CJ7 or YJ clutch assemblies work?

If you do swap in a manual be prepared to hate driving it. I entertained the idea until I realized that it would be way too cramped in the small cab for a clutch pedal. I'm already somewhat uncomfortable with an auto, unless you're short (5'9" or so) stay with an auto.

If you can get a CJ clutch assembly with a hydraulic slave that would be the way to go.

I 6'2 240. I played Defensive line in college.

You make a good point. I could push the parking brake down without opening the door first.

I would get a 203 from a dodge and a chebby 205, if you ever upgrade the engine, it would be unbreakable. I would also do a dodge 60 front and rear. You could find most of this available from a 3/4 ton dodge truck for cheap and get most of the parts you need. Tim

a CJ7/CJ5 clutch pedal and master assembly will bolt right in. The problem is actually finding a manual that will work with that engine. They use an SAE 3 bellhousing and there are not a lot of choices for manuals if you can find a bellhousing. You will most likely have to source a T19 from a Scout with the diesel. The 727 uses a 23 spline output so most any 231/232/241/D300 etc. will be a direct bolt up, but a Dodge 203 could be made to work like ATSJP2 suggested, which would be an obvious unbreakable setup with the diesel.

I am not sure you will have enough room to run the 42's without chopping up the fenders a lot. Just make some tube fenders to mimic the factory fender and you should be fine. Also note that it will take a lot of work if you are thinking of moving the front axle forward to get the tire away from the tub do to the steering box location and mounting. The CJ10's front axle is back about 5-6 inches further than a standard CJ, so you will most likely have to cut part of the tub to clear the tires, that is unless you plan on running full hydraulic steering.

Did you ever get it running?

My parents unloaded the thing. I haven't got to touch it in awhile. I really think it has something to do with the glow plugs. I'll check next chance I get.

The dodge 203 - gm 205 would be using 2 about 2:1 case, right?
I'd prefer to end up with more gear options, but if that won't work without a major headache or some serious scratch I'll get over it.

If I go GM 205 will I run into the clearance issues, mentioned earlier, with passenger drop shaft routing?

If I go GM 205 will I run into the clearance issues, mentioned earlier, with passenger drop shaft routing?

If you keep the 727 the pan will probably be in the way if you clock the 205 flat.

Oh, and when you get the bed off have fun with the 1800lb chunk of steel over the rear axle. :flipoff2:

Look a few posts up.

That's what the tow truck's for.

Sounds like a cool project. I like the uniqueness of the vehicle.

I think the clearance issue will not be on with the passenger side because the 205 is widely spaced from trans output to front output compared to the D300. My 300 is too close to the trans at the right rear corner due to the yoke but the D300 is closely spaced on the input and output. But if you decided on the Ford D60 front then you can still use a Ford 205 to work with that doubler setup. I think even if you ran a 231/300 doubler you would be fine with clearance with how long it makes your front shaft.

now i want one of these things! i really like the tube bed design jeepinwilson has going on his. good luck on the build and if ya need a hand on the weekends i may be able to help ya out!

wes

Here's some pics of mine, I got it for $1500, i left the Nissan Diesel and the 727 then i put a 203 on the back and a 205 behind that, ive got a 14 bolt in the rear and a 44 up front with lockright and high steering, its coming along nicely but slow

What did it involve to mount the 203? Pics?

bad @$$ :mr-t:

What did it involve to mount the 203? Pics?

Didn't 203's come behind the 727 in Dodges?

If that's the case I'm golden.

Didn't 203's come behind the 727 in Dodges?

Yes they did I am presently having the tail shaft and extension on my jeep 727 exchanged with one off a Dodge so I can put in a Sumner built doubler using a Dodge 203 and a Ford 205 in my FSJ "Crom"

The 727 has a 23 spline short shaft on the output, i just had to buy a 23 spline input shaft from ORD in Colorado and install it in my chevy 203 case then i mated them up, one of the bolt holes lines up so i put one bolt tightened it up and marked the rest of the holes, the 727 has a round pattern, i drilled the case and put 3/8'' studs, i had to make a aluminum cover for the bottom of the 203 to seal the bottom of the case where the gasket covers the countershaft, kind of a long process i know and it would be nice if the was a 203 case for a 727 already, i had some really nice pics of the build but my laptop crashed and i lost them all, then i bought a 203 to 205 adapter from ORD, really nice kit, i left the interlock pins out of the 205 so now i have 3 sticks and i can shift anyway i want, now i am working on mechanical throttle linkage for the Nissan, they have a vacuum actuated throttle that actually dumps vacuum to rev up, i dont trust the rubber diaphram

I would be interested in how you are going to make the throttle mechanical from vacuum, I would like to eliminate mine as well if I knew of a way to make it happen without causing fueling issues, then you could add a turbo easier.

Keep discussin' this stuff. It all is really helpful.
.......
I'm working on a kingpin Ford 60, but if that doesn't work out I might go rockwells and I could swap my 54s back and forth to save money on tires.

But It might have to be pretty tall, but it'll be wide.

I'm also in the 23spl driveline arena...

1. NP435 with 23spl short output mainshaft
2. Then into a dodge input gear in a chevy203 run upside down
3. Then into the Dana300

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b234/KargoMaster/NP435-flipped203-dana300_02.jpg

If you wanted a Ford60, you could also flip the Dana300 or get the STaK replace-a-case??

But Dodge input NP203 to Ford NP205 would be much stronger

I got the diaphram out, wasnt easy, you have to pull out on the diaphram shaft far enough to get to the cotterpin, once you get the pin straight enough to pull it all comes out, the rack has a horizontal pin sticking out sideways, so i drilled a 3/8'' bolt at the right length and i found a seal that fit perfect in the bore of the rear housing and also fit the 3/8'' bolt, the rack doesnt travel very far and it moves foward for full fuel and backwards for no fuel, i put a spring inside to keep the rack in the nofuel position, now i have to design a lever on the outside to push on the bolt, i started it up with some help and it runs fine, the governor is in the lower part of the pump so its still governed and safe, the vacuum system was slow and sluggish, this is much better

Did you remove the run-start-stop motor off the side? what is the part number of the seal you used or what kind of spring you used?. That is really cool you got that to work that way, makes me rethink repowering mine. I have access to all kinds of turbo's through work and might try turboing it if I can make the conversion work like you did. Great tech info!

Yea removing that run-start motor was one of the first things i did, and then i installed a kill cable, that thing had so many wires it scared me, to be out wheeling and brake down because of something stupid is not cool, keep it simple, i dont remember the number of the seal or the spring but thats easy stuff, you just measure od and id, i got the seal at Car Quest, i think it was 3/4'' od and 3/8'' id 1/4'' width, i have several turbo's also, that will definatley be one of the next projects, the Nissan has an oil drain on the bottom of the oil pan and a supply port right behind the alternator, there is a oil supplied vacuum pump on the back of the alternator for the brake booster, it will run without the throttle plate on the intake also

So, the throttle is controlled by the diaphram then, correct? basically once you make a lever of sorts it will actuate the diaphram plunger "in" for throttle/fuel and "out" for decellerating? the run-start motor controls starting and stopping only correct? I find it interesting you can do this so easily (well fairly easily). I have been searching the binder bulletin board and the net on SD33's and no one has a clue about the MZ Kiki pumps and yours makes the most sense. Thanks again for the info!

Yes all diesel inline injection pumps like these have a rack, and the injectors have a pinoin that spins to change the fuel rate, its called "lift to port closure" , you are right the start-run apparitis on the side of the injection pump only contols the kill lever, on this particular pump the acceleration is controlled by dumping vacuum, i dont know why they did that but i dont like it in our situation, the diaphram could rupture and rev up out of control, you could just kill it or in my case, i have 4 nuetrals, i think i could prevent an accident, but i would rather not

how much force does it take to move the bolt in and out?

how much force does it take to move the bolt in and out?
That depends on how much spring you put in, the rack itself is very free, mine is pretty easy, i am building a spring loaded plunger to set idle and then possibly use it to kill the engine back to nofuel, the amount of spring and the friction from the bolt against the seal is all, i made a UHMW
bushing for the inside of the rear cover but it slides really nice

any updates?

I've been busy with work and stuff. I'm might try and pick up the CJ7 tub tomorrow to take back to my parents place when I go home for the holidays.

I'm mainly lookin' for parts and stuff right now. I'm just about to get a set of 2.5 tons for it. I'll probably try to get it runnin' once I go back for Christmas.

Does anyone have the stock/OEM wheel base measurement on one of these CJ10a, shortest measurement I've found said 93"

Anyone?

Thanks

Big

mine was 86" stock

I measured mine at 88"

mine was probably at 88 before the slab and bed were taken off. I measured when I had all that and the 250lb front bumper crap taken off.

Yeah, I measured mine with everything on it.

Wow, alot of differences... The info I found said 80" (cj10a) or 109" (cj10)

trying to come up with a consistant measurement for use in the Modified Stock Class at W.E.ROCK events.

Thanks

definately should not be 80", the tires would be into the tub at that point. Mine was 86-88" as well as others who have them, and I think that is what they all should be on the 10A.

definately should not be 80", the tires would be into the tub at that point. Mine was 86-88" as well as others who have them, and I think that is what they all should be on the 10A.

with the stock wheelbase the tires would be into the tub if it werent for the superwide rear axle

This is what i have come up with so far, a spring loaded plunger to set idle and possibly no fuel at some point, the original kill lever is still there on the side of the pump, i wil keep working on this and hopefully have some results soon

That is cool keep us posted!

Got some more parts built for the mechanical linkage

Heres what it looks like now, it works fine, i drove it around last night, but i think i will take the pump back apart and put a stronger spring, i am having a little trouble making it idle properly, the rack only moves less than a half inch, so 500 to 700 RPM is very close, like thousands even, i took the plate out of the throttle body so i can use the original air filter for now, needs a turbo, smokes quite a bit when you hammer on it

did it seem to have more power, or at least more response? do you think the intake and exhaust manifolds will support a turbo addition as far as efficientcy?

This is goin' awesome.

I'd love to figure out how to run a turbo.

This is goin' awesome.

I'd love to figure out how to run a turbo.

this is basically the same engine that came in the scouts. Didn't they have turbos on them???

Yes, but I've heard the stuff won't swap. I don't remember the specifics.

Yes, but I've heard the stuff won't swap. I don't remember the specifics.

I don't see why not. You may need the scout maifold to be able to use the scout turbo.

Its a SD-33 versus the SD-33T. the engines are nearly identical.

If that doesn't work, call your local nissan forklift dealer, I'm sure they can help you on it. JESCO may even be able to help you with it.

the pistons are different between the two but I think the later SD33 have the better pistons (SD33T) anyway.

still havent gotten it to run yet?

I haven't been back to where it's at. Living 150 miles from your projects sucks.
Once I get promoted I might rent some space here in Houston.

I'm goin' over to get some work done on my mudder next weekend and I'll tinker with the jeep a little too.

The guy I was gonna get the CJ7 tub from backed out on me.
Anybody back-half'ed a CJ7 or YJ near me that want to get rid of their scrap?

the pistons are different between the two but I think the later SD33 have the better pistons (SD33T) anyway.

From what I have been able to findout all the later SD33s(post 82) got the better pistons. I had several links saved to my old laptop that my X took and have not been able to find some of them again. The injection pump and manifolds are the main differences IIRC..

Well if anybody has a good accurate parts list and pics of turbo'n this motor I'll give a free set of marine 6.5" or 6x9s.

did it seem to have more power, or at least more response? do you think the intake and exhaust manifolds will support a turbo addition as far as efficientcy?

Not really more power yet but i can step on it and get full rack instantly, the problem with that is the engine is still at low RPM and with all that much fuel it smokes quite a bit, once you get your RPM's up its not so bad, so getting the turbo on soon will be the goal then comes more power

Tawl,

Contact Stouttrout. He is in Beaumont and is building one of these.

Well if anybody has a good accurate parts list and pics of turbo'n this motor I'll give a free set of marine 6.5" or 6x9s.

Check this site, lots of information but I didn't sort through it all.....

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic104473.php

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=35051

I got it runnin'. Well my dad did last weekend.

He just used a tiny shot of starting fluid. I used the starting fluid on it this evening and it cranks right up the second you turn the key.

Any ideas why it needs the starting fluid?

Did you use the glow plugs? If you replace the glow plugs (or at least see if they are working, or check their resistance value) it will make a night and day difference starting.

I haven't had a chance to mess with them yet. I just brought home 100 h1 wheels and tires from 220 miles away so that took up my day yesterday.

I just waned to crank if last night and the Jeep runs great. Even the heater and defrost works fine.

yeah I'd say its the glow plugs or the relay. The relay is cheap, so I'd go ahead and replace it along with the glow plugs and see if it makes a difference.

mine had the same problem, once I replaced the relay it worked fantastic.

I dont have a problem using starting fluid, but its one or the other, glow plugs and ether dont mix, there is a nice electronic ether injector system for big trucks with a ether bottle that looks like a small propane bottle, i am going to do both just in case maybe its very cold and my batteries are low, i will just use the starting fluid which wont use as much power as the glow plugs and not drain my batteries for starting, otherwise on warm days i will use the glow plugs like a 6.9 or 7.3 which both wont even start without glow, mine has a pushbutton switch for the glow plugs, you could easly install a glowplug controller from a 6.9 or even a 7.3 in the coolant and make your glow plugs automatic which the time on would be dependent on water temp

I dont have a problem using starting fluid, but its one or the other, glow plugs and ether dont mix,

Starting fluid causes the glow plugs to swell and split. This can make them extremely difficult to remove from the head. Ive found that bending a small set of needle nose pliers to an angle that you can pry off the head works well. Just go slow and work them in and out and you will be fine.

Starting fluid causes the glow plugs to swell and split. This can make them extremely difficult to remove from the head. Ive found that bending a small set of needle nose pliers to an angle that you can pry off the head works well. Just go slow and work them in and out and you will be fine.


The glow plugs swell from the heat when they are cycled not from the starting fluid.. I have pulled several from my old ford that never had starting fluid used in it

The glow plugs swell from the heat when they are cycled not from the starting fluid.. I have pulled several from my old ford that never had starting fluid used in it

You are right. Thats just half the story. :stirthepot:

Not to get into a peeing contest but I figured I would explain my reasoning for saying what I did in an attempt to further educate everyone.

Glow plug manufacturers have been fighting these issues for awhile with newer designed plugs that heat differently for the more eco friendly fuels. The older style that is vulnerable to extended amounts of heat from repeated attempts at starting. This extended heat from repeated cycling causes the plug to expand. These are still available. Beware of auto lite glow plugs and higher amp plugs.

Ceramic plugs tend to almost absorb the ether causing them to expand or burst.

The sd 33 engine has a swirl pre-combustion chamber designed head. This mixed with ether will cause the glow plugs to swell and possibly burst. It is a similar design and flaw with the gm 6.2 and 6.5 liter diesels. I have seen on many occasions where the ether has either caused the tip to burst or holes burnt into pistons as a result of ether pre igniting the ether fuel mix before compression would have.

Your ford was likely a 6.9 or 7.3 idi naturally aspirated considering your description of old. These were plagued with hard starting problems. The stock plugs did not heat the cylinders well enough. Causing repeated cycling. The injection systems on cold days would compress air into the lines, starving the engine for fuel. More cycling. Ether would have helped start yours but you would have seen the same issue with or without ether depending on the type of glow plug. Your head style would have been pre-combustion as well. You would have ran the risk of hurting the engine like the others stated above. Higher amp plugs and block heaters really helped these if you plugged them in over night.

If it reached the powerstoke era ie turbo then it had a direct injection style head/ combustion chamber. Not recommended for ether use either.

The increased compression in high rpm diesel engines you may also see bent rods and etc from the use of ether. All of these are the reasons why the manufacturers put the warnings in the front of your vehicle owners manual.

As a diesel fleet mechanic I do use ether though frequently to start vehicles on sub zero days. Just use it in moderation and hold the can far enough away to allow it to mix with a fair amount of air. Do not hold nozzle directly inside of the air horn.

Most larger lower rpm diesel engines like cummins and cat engines will breath ether like its air and remain relatively stable with the exception of a few butt puckering knocks. These of course have no glow plugs. Hope this keeps someone from making their engine go boom:nuke:

Love the 10A by the way. Sorry for hijacking with this.

that is the first i have heard of the ceramic glow plugs and them absorbing ether. It was my understanding that using ether in an engine that has glow plugs resulted in preignition( the ether burning as soon as it came in contact with the heat of the GP) and would pound the bearings out and break pistons just like it would do in a gas engine. Ether in a grid heated engine such as the Cummins and the Yanmar on my JD would would ignite and blow the heater apart do to the rapid increase in pressure and would also blow the compressor wheel of the turbo apart..

I'm gonna try and change out the glow plug relay next time. I might go ahead a put it on a momentary switch too.

I'm lookin' on sourcing the turbo parts off a Nissan forklift, since there's a huge forklift salvage yard near where I work.

I just need to figure out exactly what I need to get.
Can I turn my injector pump up enough to suffice?

I also hear that the N/A pistons have too much compression. I'm in no hurry I just wanna figure it out. I work with a bunch of diesel equipment mechanics that have offered to help out once I get to it.

I'm gonna try and change out the glow plug relay next time. I might go ahead a put it on a momentary switch too.

I'm lookin' on sourcing the turbo parts off a Nissan forklift, since there's a huge forklift salvage yard near where I work.

I just need to figure out exactly what I need to get.
Can I turn my injector pump up enough to suffice?

I also hear that the N/A pistons have too much compression. I'm in no hurry I just wanna figure it out. I work with a bunch of diesel equipment mechanics that have offered to help out once I get to it.


I have always heard you can run up to 6psi with the stock compression ratio. Did any of the Nissan powered fork lifts have the SD33T? I would like to find a turbo exhaust manifold for mine..

any updates?

I finally replaced my stolen computer, so I'll be able to monitor this stuff more.

The glow plug relay is fine, so next time I'm gonna check the plugs individually.

I scored a kingpin Dodge 60 without a carrier for $450, so I'm gonna make a Dana 70 front like in the Dana 70 thread in the chevy section. So now I'm lookin' for another CJ-10A rear that I'll narrow.

Or I'll just put 4.88s and a spool in a 14 bolt. But I figure it would be cheaper to narrow a 70.

I'm gonna run a 231 to 231 doubler. It's the most simple option. But I'm trading the front bumper and running boards off of this thing for the parts to convert the case on it to shift in high range and 2wd.

So I might run it like that for a little bit.
......
Question:

What junkyard springs would be ideal for the front axle?

It'll be a spring over setup and I can make new mounts no problem. I want something with decent flex that'll let me clear at least 42s with tube fenders. I'll set up the rear airshocks or maybe coilovers to match the height of the front.

I finally replaced my stolen computer, so I'll be able to monitor this stuff more.

The glow plug relay is fine, so next time I'm gonna check the plugs individually.

I scored a kingpin Dodge 60 without a carrier for $450, so I'm gonna make a Dana 70 front like in the Dana 70 thread in the chevy section. So now I'm lookin' for another CJ-10A rear that I'll narrow.

Or I'll just put 4.88s and a spool in a 14 bolt. But I figure it would be cheaper to narrow a 70.

I'm gonna run a 231 to 231 doubler. It's the most simple option. But I'm trading the front bumper and running boards off of this thing for the parts to convert the case on it to shift in high range and 2wd.

So I might run it like that for a little bit.
......
Question:

What junkyard springs would be ideal for the front axle?

It'll be a spring over setup and I can make new mounts no problem. I want something with decent flex that'll let me clear at least 42s with tube fenders. I'll set up the rear airshocks or maybe coilovers to match the height of the front.

I still have the 70 that i pulled out of the rear if you want it, the front springs are just fine on mine, you dont even have to do a widening kit like most jeeps, the frame is allready wide enough for chevy axles, i put a 44 chevy front and a 14 bolt rear, but i would like to see a 70 front conversion, the only thing you will have to do is trim your steps, everything else clears, working on the turbo now, will send pictures soon

Sweet!

Well I tore mine apart this winter down to the frame and cut and hacked all the old brackets and got rid of the diesel :( (wish it had more power or I would have kept it), repaired some floor rust and misc crap then cleaned and painted the frame. Now it is running my old 400hp LT1 (was in storage for the past 4.5 years), an NV4500 and the D300 I had in it with the diesel. Still gotta regear the front D60 and do a front driveline, but it is nice to have power again. Have decided to keep the 10A grill, and the ugly ass fenders for now until I can devise a plan to put tube fenders and some real (round) headlights on it but still retain the 10A grill. Still have an ass load of stuff to do, like skinning the bed, building an in cab cage, rocker protection, better tires....blah blah
New setup
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/downsized_0314091420a.jpg

now thats somehting you dont see everyday....sweet rig!!

I'm with you on keeping the 10A grill, but I want tube fenders to.

Since I don't plan on being street legal, it shouldn't be a big deal.

thought I would tape up and paint the fronts of the fenders to see what it would be like without square headlights being there....hahaha... looks kind of like an old land rover with those huge front fenders....
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/0327091207.jpg

Another.....
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn241/jeepnwilson/downsized_0327091208a.jpg

Derek, did you find a back tub half yet? I have one I am fixing to cut into if your interested, I'll swap you the back of the tub for one H1, wheel and tire combo with runflat.

If it's a CJ7 then Deal!

...I already have CJ7 comp cut corner guards.

If it's a CJ7 then Deal!

...I already have CJ7 comp cut corner guards.

Derek,

I cut it off on Sunday, I was looking at it, I think I am just going to have to scrap it. The previous owner did a hell of a job on the bondo, and this thing is in really piss poor shape. The wheel wells are rotted out all the way up to the top. The back portion under the tailgate is rotted all the way through

well crap.

If you ever wanna hand. Let me know. I get bored as hell when I'm stuck in Houston for the weekend. Or evening a weekday after work.

[QUOTE=anatram;9619658]Derek, did you find a back tub half yet? I have one I am fixing to cut into if your interested...QUOTE]

I used the back half of a YJ tub and built a box to cover the stock fuel tank. It also has locking storage above the tank. Added a CJ tailgate for the truck look.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/003-1.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/009-1.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/011.jpg

UPDATE:
I pulled the top off earlier this month to cruise around on the dirt roads in style.
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I just scored another rear out of a CJ10A so I can make one into 60/70 hybird front from a 60 I have without a carrier.

Then I'll narrow the other to match.

Oh, and I just bought another CJ10 for a great deal. It's got half the miles and half the hours, and from the pics it looks way better.

In a perfect world, I'd make one into a harcore trail rig and the other for sweet little pickup that looks stock.
But I'll probably sell one to fund the other build. I just don't know if I want to use the nicer one for a crawler, since I'll be cuttin' on it and ridin' it hard.

-I'm in the process of buying a house soon, and I'll have a 2 car garage for the Jeep. My other truck will remain 150 miles away, so this build should progress alot quicker.

My plasma cutter quit on my again this weekend. So I started tearing the crap off the Jeep.

I've removed the front bumper, running boards, and the bed. I made tab to weld to the weight on the back to pick it up with the front end loader.
It looks like the cradle the hold the fuel tank and weight it welded on....am I right?

I would've taken pics but I forgot the camera.

My next question:

What model Jeep tube fenders will fit this? I think it would be YJ, right?

I was gonna keep this cheap and simple but I want the move the front axle forward so I can keep it low, so it's lookin' like I'm gonna 3 link it.

I don't figure I could keep leaves and have the approach angle I'm lookin' for.

Hopefully selling the other CJ10a I just bought will cover the cost of coilovers and airshocks.

Considering the terrain I'll see I'm thinkin' I'll run 43" SXs. I doubt I'll break anything with the 60/70 hybrid front, and 70 rear with the stock motor.
.........

Keep up the tech and pics on all things CJ10. This thread could become a really good resource for these rare bastard vehicles.

What model Jeep tube fenders will fit this? I think it would be YJ, right?

My guess would be a CJ.
The front clip looks like a CJ hood and grill w/o lights. I would guess that you could probably put a regular CJ grill w/lights if you wanted to.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/JeepTug.jpg
http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/1946-1986-jeep-cj-28a.jpg

I would like to see more progress on this one.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/009-1.jpg

I don't think a CJ kit would fit without some mods. The front springs are Waggy springs, so the center pin is offset toward the rear. The wheel opening ends closer to the firewall than on standard CJ.

That's if you take the kit approach. The exterior dimensions are CJ, so if the Tube fender doesn't use any of the parts from the vehicle, they would bolt up.

I used the back half of a YJ tub and built a box to cover the stock fuel tank. It also has locking storage above the tank. Added a CJ tailgate for the truck look.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/009-1.jpg



That looks so awesome!... please leave the CJ-10 front on it. It makes it so original.

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I was thinkin' of this pic. In my mind, I though it was the fenders put on a YJ.

I guess CJ Tube fenders might work. If all else fails I can fab my own. I'll just have to go to a buddy with a bender.

What model Jeep tube fenders will fit this? I think it would be YJ, right?


The CJ-10a frame is a shortened J-Truck frame, so if they haven't modified how the bumper mounts, I'd expect you'd need something that would fit a j-truck. If they have modified it, all bets are off...

Basically I lookin' for what will fit the body. There are no J-truck tube fenders that I'm familiar with.

Basically I lookin' for what will fit the body. There are no J-truck tube fenders that I'm familiar with.

Oh duh, sorry, for some reason I read it wrong as "tube bumpers" not tube fenders, I'm a dork. Sorry, of course CJ fenders should fit...

cool lookin' build I like the "different rigs"

I just scored a CJ7 tub with no rust and a YJ hood and grill for $300.

I don't need the YJ hood and grill, but they came with it. I just got to pick it up.

Things are comming together nicely.

Even though a have a YJ I prefer the CJ grill. It is a good thing you arfe ditching those fenders. When I see the front of a CJ10-A I think of the phrase "A face only a mother could love"
So are you going to make a "bed" out of the CJ tub?

Right. I'm gonna cut the CJ7 tub right behind the door opening and I'm using a Gen Right Comp Cut Corner Guards to stretch the wheelbase.

I had a CJ7 tub lined up along time ago, when I bought the corner guards, and then that feel through. That's why I've been lookin' for a 7 tub and passing up YJs.

I might try and stretch the front of the bed some(but it would mainly be for cosmetics). I figure I can get a decent wheelbase from the comp cut and movin' the front axle forward a bit.

Right. I'm gonna cut the CJ7 tub right behind the door opening and I'm using a Gen Right Comp Cut Corner Guards to stretch the wheelbase.

I had a CJ7 tub lined up along time ago, when I bought the corner guards, and then that feel through. That's why I've been lookin' for a 7 tub and passing up YJs.

I might try and stretch the front of the bed some(but it would mainly be for cosmetics). I figure I can get a decent wheelbase from the comp cut and movin' the front axle forward a bit.

I can't remember where I found these photos, so apologies to the builder/owner of the pictured CJ-10a... here's an example of a CJ-10a with the back of a CJ or YJ tub asa small bed...

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc163/jscherb/CJ-10aWithTub.jpg

Thanks, nice pics.

If I was going for a daily driver truck look, I would extend the bed a little to get the proportions a little more even.

Thanks, nice pics.

If I was going for a daily driver truck look, I would extend the bed a little to get the proportions a little more even.

I think the proportions stretched bed looks better in these pics.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/009-1.jpg

Or you could go for the traditional pickup look instead of using a cut-down CJ tub...

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc163/jscherb/Gaucho/Gaucho1.jpg

I would like to see more progress on this one.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/009-1.jpg

I'll start a post build thread on here soon, but here is the "finished" rig...
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/001-4.jpg

Looks sharp!

I'll start a post build thread on here soon, but here is the "finished" rig...
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/001-4.jpg

lookin good Dusty!

We'll see how it ends up. The tough part on extending it would be gettin' the top of the bed on the extended section to match.

Though, I could probably find someone on here with a scrap rusted up tub to cut 8" of the top rail off for me.

I'm gonna run a grill hoop with some slim 6" or 7" fog lights mount where CJ headlights would go. And I'm thinkin' of mountin' some 94-98 GM Fullsize headlight into a bumper so I can eventually have it street "legal".
.......

Would anybody think using a tow dolly on the one I just bought 500 miles away, would be a bad idea? I'll disconnect the driveshaft at the back axle and tie it up.

I just don't want to have to drag a gooneck trailer on the round trip if I don't have to.

I'll start a post build thread on here soon,

Cool. I really like the proportions on yours. I hope to start on mine this winter, after I get the tub and engine swapped in the CJ-5. My current tub is clean in the back half, but it got t-boned bad enough the firewall is trashed. Looking forward to what you did.

Tawl Boy, with the driveshaft unhooked, it would pull alright, but how would it stop? With the weight and all, I think it would be a pig on a dolly. They are really heavy for the wheelbase. Depends on how complete it is.

It's complete it weighs about 6k roughly, but I'll be pulling it with 04 Cummins Dually. I don't think it'll be a problem.

I picked up a CJ7 tub that's in pretty good shape for what I'm gonna be usin' it for.
The seller threw in a YJ hood and grill in excellent shape, that I'll sell to add to the project budget.

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460758
.........

I'm definitely 4 linkin' the rear, probably gonna go with air shocks.

I'd love to 3 link the front, but I want to hurry up and get this goin' without spending too much right now.

I'm thinkin or using XJ leaves or something to move the front axle forward a little bit. And I can always link it later down the road.

If figure it I can get really good flex in the rear, then I can get by with some fairly flat(no lift) springs up front sprung over.

Hey you should really trade me the dash and the brackets and crap under the dash for a cold 6 pack of beer, and I think I have the 8" section you are looking for.

II'm thinkin or using XJ leaves or something to move the front axle forward a little bit. And I can always link it later down the road.

If figure it I can get really good flex in the rear, then I can get by with some fairly flat(no lift) springs up front sprung over.

For a start, just turn the stock front springs around, they are standard Waggy springs, with the short side to the rear, I believe. Round numbers, that would be about a 6" stretch.

If you're going to use regular CJ fenders, I might be interested in the -10a fenders and headlight buckets. I want to trim the turn signal off, but leave the headlight where it is.

Just trimmed off the turn signals on mine, here is what it looks like.
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/CJ1007.jpg

Great looking Jeep!
Wheelbase? Rear Springs? Drivetain? love to see more details!

I'm wantin' to hang on to the fenders. I'd hate not to have 'em if I ever change my mind.

Dusty, do you have like bendtech numbers or anything on your cage? Or at least some more pics?

Sorry, no bend tech #'s. Just started measuring, bending, fitting and welding....But here are a few pics.

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/002-4.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/001-2.jpg
http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii188/dustyglyde/003-3.jpg

Sorry, no bend tech #'s. Just started measuring, bending, fitting and welding....But here are a few pics.


Dont worry. No one will steal your design.:flipoff2:

nice cage! this makes me want to start on my cj-10 project. must finish other junk first!:mad3:

Dont worry. No one will steal your design.:flipoff2:

Cmon man...Thats my Ghetto security system. :mr-t:

Great looking Jeep!
Wheelbase? Rear Springs? Drivetain? love to see more details!

I don't have a build thread on Pirate yet, but I'll try to put one together this weekend. I'll post the link when it is done.

I don't have a build thread on Pirate yet, but I'll try to put one together this weekend. I'll post the link when it is done.

Just got my thread together...
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813750

what about a pickup bed off a land cruiser? just a thought

This was real fun.
465041

Now the progress will begin.
....
Next step is the 60/70 hybrid front axle.

Well I just picked up another one this weekend. The body is in better shape then mine and it has an engine driven air compressor set up on it with tanks on the frame rail and air chucks on the front and rear. I'll post some pics up later tonight.

The accesories layout's kinda different then my other one, but I'm gonna try and swap over the compressor to the one I've started workin' on.

I'll list the new one for sale real soon, but I figured I'd give the guys followin' this thread first dibs.

This was real fun.
465041

Now the progress will begin.
....
Next step is the 60/70 hybrid front axle.

That was, without a doubt, the least fun part of my build.

What oil is best for the SD33?

I figure it ought to be changed.

I use rotella T in mine same as I use in my Cummins..

Cool, I already have that for my Cummins.

I use rotella T in mine same as I use in my Cummins..

X2.....Running Rotella T

I have a kingpin Dodge 60 that will be sacrificed to make the 70 hybrid front.
466673
And here's the extra tug rear I got ahold of.

Any tips on figuring the best way to get the tube lengths exactly right?
-I'm gonna make it driverside diff where it was passenger.

The tug rear is close to wide enough to have enough tube for the long side.
466674

Here the other CJ10 that I just picked up from Northeast Alabama and towed back to Houston on Monday. I'm still tired.

Check out the on board air setup.
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.......

I just traded the front bumper and running boards off the tug for the parts to be able to shift the t-case.

Since the tug I'm buildin' is about to be down for a little bit, starting tomorrow...and I plan to do a 231 to flipped twinsticked Dana 300, I'll convert the case on the one that I'm gonna sale.

467027
This thing kicks butt! I thought my 50 amp chinese one was a great tool before.

467029
It made short work of chopping up the 1/2" thick, extremely heavy rear bumper. Even cut into 4 pieces, I couldn't hardly pick up the middle chunk with the hitch.

467028
The rear of the jeep without the bumper.

I'm about to pull it into the garage just right and hack the rear of the frame off at it highest point. That way I can start making my new extended frame out of some boxed tubing.

The front springs look like I could move the front axle forward about 2" by flipping 'em, but I'd like a little more of a stretch(I will have full hydro)
I plan to run tires between 42-44" and I'd like them to stick out past the front of the rig just a little.
I think this can be achieved with XJ springs up front. But if not, I guess I'll 3 link it.
But that would hurt the budget enough to slow the build down.

I'd prefer to upgrade to coilovers and 3 link in the front in a year or so.

I welcome all advice, concerns, and constructive criticism throughout this build, as it is my first attempt at a crawler.

wish I had the extra couple grand laying around to pick up the 10 you have for sale... I'd love to convert everything from my 7 over and make a CJ10 pickup like dustinglyde...

Well I'm in the process of collecting some tools(that I already have at my dad's place) that I need to get started.

Nobody on craigslist would call me back today. I was hopin' to score some jackstands and floor bottle jacks for cheap. If all else fails, I'll make a couple of trips to Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon each time.

I picked up there Mig welder cart today for $39 with the coupon. It's not great but I would have had trouble building something for under that price myself with the cost of steel, caster wheels, and paint.
............

I go on vacation on Wednesday to the Bay Area in California. I had free plane tickets and my wife and I got a half price rental car, and we each have family to stay with for free.

Let me know if there's anything cool goin' on around there that we could check out.

So progress will halt for a week and then hopefully get in high gear.

I need to decide what joints I wanna use on the rear suspension and get 'em ordered. I'll probably run 14" travel air shocks in the rear.

I'm gonna try and score a 231 and dana 300 soon.
..........

I'll take partial trades on the other CJ10 if somebody wants to get rid of some t-case and air shocks.

Heres what it looks like now, it works fine, i drove it around last night, but i think i will take the pump back apart and put a stronger spring, i am having a little trouble making it idle properly, the rack only moves less than a half inch, so 500 to 700 RPM is very close, like thousands even, i took the plate out of the throttle body so i can use the original air filter for now, needs a turbo, smokes quite a bit when you hammer on it

Pablo, did you ever get your idle issue resolved? I did this same mod when I installed a turbo and I also have a problem getting this thing to idle. IT's like the diaphram allowed the throttle to vary as needed. If I set what seems like a good idle, it will creep up and rev or load up and die. Any ideas??? :confused:

I stripped down the extra tug rear I had in the bed off my truck. It's in good shape.
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I cut off the rear of the frame off from where it peaks in height.
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I plan to extend that straight back with boxed tubing.

I don't have the CJ7 tub at this house, so would anybody mind measuring from the door opening to the back of a CJ7 for me.

I just measured ~45.5 " from the top of the rear door opening to the edge of the rear.

Sweet, thanks,
......
I think I've got a 231 t-case locked down for a good deal. And a pair of used 16" 2.0 RaceRunner Airshocks.

I'm thinkin' of running 7/8" heims with high misalignment spacers on all my links. I can get 'em for a good deal....bout half of the price of Ballistic Joints or something similar.

Well I got the axle out last night so I can start on my frame stretch. The stock frame is an odd dimension, but I'll make it blend into some 2x4 box tubing. I figure 3/16" wall should be good with crossmembers and bracing.

I then took a bath in ATF when I pulled the plug on the t-case and it shot about 1.5' past the bucket. It was clean though.

I've located a 231J and I'm pickin' up a dana 300 and pair of 16" Race Runner air shocks tonight. I've got a little bit of a drive ahead of me to San Antonio, but it's cheaper than shipping.
I'm gonna run the D.D. Machine 231 crawlbox kit with their flipped 300 twinsticks.
......

I might have to get fancy with the frame to fit the air shocks. I don't know how much wider the CJ10's frame is compared to a stock CJ. I'm narrowing the rear 70 to around 65-67" WMS and I'll run H1s w/ stamped centers(3.5" backspacing) with 43" SXs or 42" SXIIs.

Who makes the most affordable tube fenders? I'm lookin' for a weld together kit. I'm not sure If I'll get any flare or not since I'm comp cutting the rear.
I could always flare teh comp cut a little with some tube, but I want it to look good.

What hight steer arms will work best with the stock 60 knuckles and a surplus center double ended ram? I'm lookin' around, but I wanted to make sure I get the hole the right distance from the kingpin.

sweet just swap in a CJ7 grill and some of these http://www.4west.com/PoisonSpyder_Fenders.htm

That is exactly how I did the rear frame on my CJ10A. I think it works well cut where you did it. Those are the tires I wanted to run but may go with a 40" LTB.

I believe CJ7 tube fender will fit with the CJ10 grill.

Yesterday I came across White Rhino Fab's DIY tube fender kit. It seemed fairly reasonable. Anybody have experience.
.........

jeepinwilson, what size tubing did you come off your frame with?

Got the air shocks and dana 300.
471012

The hybrid axle is about to start gettin' built. I believe I got the machine work lined out.

I need to get some XJ leafs for the front.

With tube fenders up front and 42" tires, will I be OK with a stock XJ leafs SOA?
-or- should I use stocks with an add a leaf(that should help with spring wrap, right)
-or- should I use a 1.5" or 2" lift spring

I was thinkin' of using new springs, even if they're stock so they'll be stiffer. Or if ya'll think junk yard ones are fine.

If I go new stock, where a good cheap source?

I have been bending up some tubes for fenders and they come out pretty decent. I am willing to trade a set of tubes for the reminents of that other tube you had. You'll have to weld the fenders your self and add the flat plate to the top and sides.

I haven't got the tub back yet. But when I get the chance to get it to Houston we'll work somethin' out.

JC Whitney has stock XJ springs for $104 a spring.

Quadratech has standard duty XJ springs for $75 a spring and heavy duty for $99 a spring.

I found some 2.5" Superlift XJ springs for $189 for the pair.
.....

I'm thinkin' I oughta go with the 2.5" lift springs to clear the 42s with no issues.

Any thoughts?

JC Whitney has stock XJ springs for $104 a spring.

Quadratech has standard duty XJ springs for $75 a spring and heavy duty for $99 a spring.

I found some 2.5" Superlift XJ springs for $189 for the pair.
.....

I'm thinkin' I oughta go with the 2.5" lift springs to clear the 42s with no issues.

Any thoughts?

I think you will need the 2.5 lift and you are probably going to have to do some cutting to clear 42's. I'm running 39.5's with a fair ammount of trimming and no lift. It rubbs just a little at full compression.

Remember. I'll be running tube fender and a comp cut, so that'll give me several inches more room than your setup.

Your running the stock leafs flipped right?
I'm not sure the height you get from an xj spring compared to the stock ones.

Here's an up close pic of the NP198. Already has a fixed yoke.
472308

472309
Here are the parts so it can be shifted.
472310
If I get bored I'll go ahead and convert it for the other Jeep. I'm not sure if there would be a big interest in sellin' it.

I'll be puttin' the steering box up for sale, but I need to get my ball joint separator over here.
Oh...and figure out the application. Is it a Waggy steering box?
472311

Would any part of the straight tube 8 lug front valuable to anyone or should I just bring it on my scrap run?

The steering gear box is a Wagoneer, but most Saginaw Jeep boxes will bolt up with a little work. The front steering on the straight axle uses flat top knuckles on both sides, so it should be worth something to someone that has a D44, and the brakes and hubs will work on your rear for a disc swap too.

I'll be goin' full hydro. I just wanted to know how to post the steering box.

The front hubs will fit on the 70 spindles?

Remember. I'll be running tube fender and a comp cut, so that'll give me several inches more room than your setup.

Your running the stock leafs flipped right?
I'm not sure the height you get from an xj spring compared to the stock ones.

Yeah, you should have alot more clearance with tube fenders. I'm running the stock waggy leafs flipped. I have XJ springs in the rear and I added a leaf. I'd imagine in stock form they would sag pretty good under the weight of the motor. Might want to add a leaf to the pack.

I'll be goin' full hydro. I just wanted to know how to post the steering box.

The front hubs will fit on the 70 spindles?

No the hubs will not, but the rotors will work in place of the drums as well as the calipers with most disc brakets out there. You might have to open the rotor pilot or turn down the hub flange a little. But most of the disc brake swaps on the D70's vary with the hubs.

Yeah. I want the least amount of lift to have good clearance with tube fenders. I'd like a little up travel too. I want to get the front set up first so I can design the rear to have optimum geometry at ride height.

I wonder if the superlift springs with 2.5" of lift would handle the weight OK or if I'd be better off with stock waggy springs with an add-a-leaf.

If all else fails I could run a 1" zero rate up front for that extra little bit I might need.
....
I started cuttin' up the extra Dana 70 last night. It didn't quite fit in my chop saw tightened up until I cut into it a little. I left a little extra on so I can have my friend with the all the maching equipment get everything true.

I'll need to order springs soon so I can set the pinion angle on the front axle before I weld it back up.

Would any part of the straight tube 8 lug front valuable to anyone or should I just bring it on my scrap run?

I was told that there are people out there that want them for 2 wheel drive Street Rod FSJ's. I suspect that may be Just A Little rare, though. Might try posting it up for sale and see if anyone bites. That's what I had planned to do when I got mine out from under it. Maybe on IFSJA, too.

Stout tubes on the 70. Took me forever with the cheapo chop saw.
472488
Sold the seats today. Didn't even have 'em listed. Somebody just PMed me.
More room to work and $40 added to the budget.
472489
I pulled up the rubber floor mat and there was some scale. I bounded at it with a big screw driver and I found this one small rotted spot. Should be really easy to patch and then I'll Rhinoline the entire inside of the tub.
472490

These seem like the ideal springs. Old Man Emu Dakar XJ Leafs:
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/dakar-leaf-springs-cherokee-rear-omejc1a-p-8817.html

Says they're military wrapped. Only $109. I think that's for a pair.

The OME are nice springs but they are sold individually in most places, and I am almost certain that the $109 is an each price. I have a set of BDS XJ and they are kind of military wrapped that I am going to install this winter, they were only $105 each and they are nice springs.

Well crap. Typically it will be listed singular(spring) if it is being sold individually.

It's still worth $218 or whatever if they solve the problems typically associated with with running XJ springs up front. Especially with diesel jeep.

I'm really trying to get the spring situation figure out soon. So I can set up the front end and then start figurin' out the rear.

...I pulled up the rubber floor mat and there was some scale. I bounded at it with a big screw driver and I found this one small rotted spot. Should be really easy to patch and then I'll Rhinoline the entire inside of the tub.

A suggestion - it looks like the rust runs over to the side of the tub, which means it is likely there is rust between the outer body sheet metal and the inside a-pillar, this is the source of the common rust-through that happens in front of the door openings and below the embossed Jeep logo. Might be worth poking around behind the a-pillar to check it out as long as you're doing all this work, it would be a shame to get it all done only to have rust-through show up there a year from now.

Well crap. Typically it will be listed singular(spring) if it is being sold individually.

It's still worth $218 or whatever if they solve the problems typically associated with with running XJ springs up front. Especially with diesel jeep.

I'm really trying to get the spring situation figure out soon. So I can set up the front end and then start figurin' out the rear.

Your'e definitely going to need some kind of traction bar with those XJ springs. I ran them spring under in the rear of my 5 with double main leaves and still needed a traction bar. That was with a stockish 258 and only 36" Iroks.

A suggestion - it looks like the rust runs over to the side of the tub, which means it is likely there is rust between the outer body sheet metal and the inside a-pillar, this is the source of the common rust-through that happens in front of the door openings and below the embossed Jeep logo. Might be worth poking around behind the a-pillar to check it out as long as you're doing all this work, it would be a shame to get it all done only to have rust-through show up there a year from now.

Thanks. I'll check that out.

Are these flat tops? I don't have experience with 44s at all.
473786
The hubs are spline for lock outs.
473788
Spindle seems to be pressed into the caliper bracket or something.
473787

It's pretty much a 4 wheel drive 44 without a diff.

naw, not flat tops. Some people said they "should be", but a good picture of a -10a dead front is hard to track down.

That's odd yours did not have flat tops, mine had them on both sides. The spindle and caliper mount are probably just siezed together.

Not flat tops. Google "Mr. N" for the definitive D44 page which will show what they look like.

Corrosion is probably holding the spindle and caliper mount together.

maybe my other one does?

Will the front shackles on this thing work ok with XJ leafs or should I make/buy some longer ones?

-or-
Should I do a shackle reversal?

I've got a ton of steel and plamsa, so any option will be no problem.

Will the front shackles on this thing work ok with XJ leafs or should I make/buy some longer ones?

-or-
Should I do a shackle reversal?

I've got a ton of steel and plamsa, so any option will be no problem.

Shackle reversal with leaf spring slider boxes, keep it low and put some big rubber on it.

OK. New situation.

I just got the 231, that I bought, in today. It has a 21 spline input and the CJ10 is 23 spline.

Can I swap the input off the NP198 onto it? Or what?

I wouldn't bet on the 198 input working, but who knows. You can get the correct input for the 231, but there are several choices other than just spline count, there were more than one length. I forget where I found the info, but I didn't have to Google too hard.

Yeah. It's all on advance adapter site.

I was just curious if I could swap the 198s. I'll get 'em apart soon and look.

If all else fails. I ought to be able to pick one up somewhere. I guess I need to figure out what the one I got came out of, so I know the length and spline type.

The tech support at Novak is awesome.

I would need their part#:23LWES It's $165.

The 231 I got is the is the 21 spline short input with early cut gears.

I need the 23 spline long input with early cut gears to swap.
I'm gonna see if I can find a used one, but Novak is always an option.

Which set of these springs do ya'll think would work best up front on the CJ10?
-remember it's a little heavier up front than your average jeep.

OLD MAN EMU-CS034RA (OMEJC1A) 5 leaves in pack, 148lbs/inch s.r. 230mm (9.055") free height= Average lift of ~3"
OLD MAN EMU-CS034RB (OMEJC1B) 5 leaves in pack, 148lbs/inch s.r. 205mm (8.07") free height
OLD MAN EMU-CS035RA (OMEJC2A) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 235mm (9.25") free height
OLD MAN EMU-CS035RB (OMEJC2B) 4 + 1 overload, 137/257lbs/in s.r. 210mm (8.27") free height
OLD MAN EMU- D22XL (OME Add A Leaf) ~ 1" lift on top of their lift packs

I think I'd avoid the packs with an overload spring.

My bad. I would figure on removing the overloads on those.

I just don't know if the 5 leaf pack would be too over kill. But with some break in, it might be perfect.

I could always pull a leaf on those eventually.

You might be better off with the 3" lift spring and pull a leaf. I'd imagine it will sag at least an inch.

I'd like to order springs tomorrow. As of now I'm thinkin' the first set.
......
J & W Auto Wreckers, off the board, is awesome. I e-mailed 'em about a 23 spline input Saturday and they responded today. I was able to snag the right input for the 231 for $75 as opposed to $160 new from Novak.

Got my GenRight tube fenders in today.
475154

475155

I kinda like the no headlight look. Since this isn't going to be street legal...at least anytime soon. I'll just figure out some kind of mount for some kind of flood lights for night wheeling. Not positive how I want to mount 'em yet.
......

I know I've bought some parts out of order, but I got deals I couldn't pass up on.

I've got the cash to go ahead and get the springs. And the next purchase is the Box4Rox doubler kit and flip sticks.

That way I can start figuring out where the links will mount.
Planning 7/8"x7/8" heims at each end with high misalignment spacers since it will be trailered.

I hope to have the front axle put together and mounted within a couple weeks, so I can figure out the ride height for the rear.

Well I got laid off today from my day job. I didn't like it there, but I didn't exactly have anything else lined out.

Well now I have time to finish up my builds.

First order of business. Work on a t-case on the coffee table.
476361

I picked these up from the Matco guy the other day. They work way better than cheapo snap ring pliers.
476362

I got the 23 spline input in today while I was home early. J & W was awesome. I thought I needed a pre 94 input because what I read about the gear pitch, but that wasn't a problem. They sent the planetary with it, but I check and it fit the original planetary fine.
476363
You can see the difference in length for the input for an auto.
476364

The t-case was going back together just fine, but I noticed the snap ring groove on the input wasn't exposed. So I pulled it back apart and saw that the new input's "shoulder" sticks about 1/4" more than the other one. (maybe that's the difference in years)
But I have a friend who can machine it down for me.
476365

I'm in no rush to get it put back together since I don't have Box4rocks kit yet. It's a good thing I figured out this problem early.
I originally thought I'd be done before the wife got home. Well, maybe she'll feel sorry for me and let it slide.
..........

I ordered the first set of OME springs on the list from earlier. I figure they ought to sag some from the weight of the diesel and I can always pull a leaf.

But I just got a call from 4x4groupbuy.com, and they said that OME has them backorder from Australia till Nov. 27th.
Oh well, I have other stuff I can work on.

Wanna sell me your fenders?

I originally didn't want to sell 'em. But I don't ever see 'em goin' back on and I have a whole other tug now that I'll probably end up keeping.

I need to think about a fair price and I have another guy who called first dips, that I'd have to check with first. But, yeah, I guess I will sell 'em.

First is first.

I have an idea that these might be a good way to finish a project that has been in the back of my mind for a long time - but I have other ways - so by all means, give him first shot.

Well I had two packaged show up at work after they let me go. One of my coworkers just brought 'em by.

It would've been nice if I would have know before I spent about $700 last week on parts.

Well maybe I'm glad I already ordered 'em.

Got the super bling PSC springless high steer arms while they were on sale.
476398
And I got a good deal on a couple sets of rebar rim stiffeners.
476399

I figured, with all the mud around here, rock rings would suck to clean out.

Well, with my free time I got the other tube fender on.
477090

The bolt on the stock fenders under the battery box took about half an hour to get out and my arm is scratched up pretty bad.

477091

If anybody wants these shock mounts let me know, or they're gettin' scraped soon.

I like cuttin' stuff in half.
478288
The left overs.
478287

I just cut it through the back of the door opening with the plasma.

I'll mark it out and use a cut off wheel to get it where I want it.

Where I'll be cutting the tub, the floor will drop off a several inches in front of where I'll weld in the front off the bed. So I'll probably just feel it in level with sheet metal.

I had to cut the frame rails to be able to fit the 2x4" .188 wall tubing in.
478801

478803
I trimmed the GenRight comp cut corners since they wouldn't be up against a door opening.
478802

What do I need go countersink the new holes I need to drill? I'd like to use the flush mount hardware that came with the corners.

I couldn't reach the other side of the Jeep with my welder, so tomorrow I'm gonna make a 15' or so 220V extension cord.

That should let me cover my whole garage.

I don't know how you would clamp these in place and not scratch the hell out of your paint. But I didn't exactly care.
479070
Since they're designed to go with rocker guards, I'll have to make a small panel to fill up the front of the wheel opening.

479071
Got both sides cut out. Almost all of the body damage will be covered by the corner guards. So I'm not gonna need to do much body work. I cut the tub even with the beginning of the corner guard all the way down.

Part of the top rail of the beds bent up pretty bad. I think I can cut out a "patch" out of the door opening. It looks like the contour's the same.
It'll be purely cosmetic, but it's a little work to make it look a little better.

I made a 15' extension cord for my welder out of some 10 gauge wire, so I was able to weld on the other frame rail.

I finished cutting the bed and sat it in place.
479442
479441

The rear of the "bed" is sitting a little high. I either need to cut a small notch out of the end of the frame, or I'll make the frame drop a few inches and level back out.

The bed is a little tweaked, but once I make the front wall of the bed, I should be able to straighten it up pretty good.

It looks like I should end up with a 118" wheelbase and pull off the right look I'm goin' for.

I'll definitely have over a 90* departure angle, and it should be close in the front depending on how I do a bumper. I'd like to run a winch, but I don't want to cut into the grill.

Hey Tawl-Boy, im new to this site and dont kno really how this works yet! ive been following your build nice work man. I also am building a Cj10a very similar. if u would please i would like to ask ya question and run some ideas by you.

coming along, how far forward are you moving your front axle? You were running full hydraulic steering right?

I'm moving it up 6" with the xj leaves. I am going full hydro with a 2x8" surplus center double ended ram.

Well I decided to cut out the one really banged up spot that will be showing over the corner guards. This would give me a good shot to practice my body work, since it really isn't showing much.
479587

I cut a patch panel out of the piece of the door opening I cut out.
479588

Did a billion tacks, spacing 'em out....
479589
all those weekends of watching the Power Block have paid off.

It came out pretty good. I smoothed out the other dented spots with a hammer and the flat end of a spindle socket(for a dolly).
479590

It bows in a little, but it was like that from whatever caused the damage. I figure the corner guards will straighten it out when bolted up.

Just a little bit of filler and it should look perfect from the part you'll see over the corner guards.

I went ahead and made a truss to mount my uppers for my rear axle.
481634
It's made out of 1/2". I'll might fill in gaps between the housing and truss with some 3/16" or something, but I think it's fine without it.

I bolted the the front half of the 231 one up to figure out how mount the shifter that came with it.

One of the shifters mounting holes line up perfect on one of the t-case's studs.
And then I made a bracket that used the top two bolts where the t-case adapter mounts to the trans.
481635
481636
.........
I need to find someone who lives close with some 40-44" tires to let me borrow to setup my suspension.

My front spring should ship on the 27th I think. I'm hoping they won't be too tall. But I can always pull a leaf and french the hangers, if I have to.

Nice work, great pictures, and quick progress!:cool2:

I hope to get back on my tug project this winter and plan to make many of the same modifications so I am following this closely. Rather than the short pickup like most have done I plan to put a modified YJ tub on my CJ10A frame (buddy has the tug tub and is making a sand dragger out of it on a Scrambler frame) with Chevy springs. The Dana 70 is too wide for where we wheel so I will probably use a Rodeo Dana 44 rear with 4.30 gears and Waggy front.

I'm actually gonna narrow the rear the match the front I'm buildin'.

It'll probably be a couple inches narrower to help with turning radius.

I'm actually gonna narrow the rear the match the front I'm buildin'.

It'll probably be a couple inches narrower to help with turning radius.

Cool:cool2: If I could have narrowed mine it would be under my M715 and would have saved me a lot of work getting a van 14 bolt, regearing, and converting to disck brakes. I am looking to run 35" tires so the Dana 44's with the 33SD and automatic should be fine.

I have two 208's and a spare Dana 300 so I am watching to see how your setup turns out before deciding which way to go. My modifed 69 Jeepster Commando with 38.5 XZL's is my trail rig, this project is for my son.

Haven't got a ton accomplished due to waiting on parts for some stuff, plus it's been too cold for me in the garage. I know it gets way colder where alot of ya'll are from, but I'm not used to it.
..........

I began working on the floor pan rot.

As I hit it with the wire wheel, it was worse than I thought in some spots.

The "patch" panel I cut out of non rotted part of the CJ7 tub wasn't big enough to fix the drivers side. I'm gonna get a new floor pan from Quadratech.

It worked on pretty good on the passenger though. I'll take pics later.
...........

Azzy, on the board, machined down the tube on the 60's inner c's to fit into the 70's tubes.
486245

486246

I should be able to get the the front axle put together most of the way. I don't want to weld in the c's until I'm sure on my pinion angle.

So I'll need to get my ride height and drivetrain length figured out.

I should get my front springs in the beginning of next week and, if you guys would buy some more H1s and audio, I could buy the D.D. Machine Box4rocks.

If I wouldn't have gotten laid off from my day job, I would have already had all my parts together for this build.

Is there a reason you did not machine the tube out of the knuckle C to slide over the outside of the D70 tube? Looks like the way you did it will be fine, I was just curious....

I felt it would've taken too much material off the C for it to fit over the 70 tubes.

And this way was easier.

I got this idea from the Dana 70 thread where a guy used a 70 HD housing. The tubes on it were big enough to where he just went around the 60 tubes with a a flap will and tapped 'em into the 70.

That's cool, I just put a 14 bolt in my 10A and will probably keep the D70U and convert it to a front some day.

Floor pics:

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6341.jpg
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6342.jpg

My tug was patched like that on the driver's side, but the passenger side is solid. Doing the same thing to a replacement CJ-5 tub right now.

You got parts now.. get to work! :flipoff2:













Build looks good.. see ya in a few weeks. :beer:

Well 4x4groupbuy.com lied. These springs aren't military wrapped.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6343.jpg

I sent 'em an e-mail about what I think about their business practices.

The only reason I ordered those spring was that they were listed as military wrapped and then I had to wait almost 2 months to get them.

I guess we'll see what their response is.
......

I got the inner c's and sleeves for the rear axle back from Azzy.

I'll start on putting the front axle together tomorrow.

Well the customer service at 4x4groupbuy is pretty good.

They called me back and he did a little research before and said that nobody makes a military wrapped XJ rear due to how it mounts.

Apparently ARB has some fine print, that was on his site too, that says all options may not be on a particular pair of springs.
I think ARB should note that the Dakar XJ springs are military wrapped.

So, I guess I'll run 'em and probably make a traction bar of some kind.

Man that sucks, I am using the BDS XJ 2.5" lift rears and they are the closest thing I could find to a military wrap besides ARB. They have the second leaf wrapping about halfway around the main leaf eyelet. I would still recommend a traction bar of some sort even if they were full military wrap, spring over just kills the springs.

So, I guess I'll run 'em and probably make a traction bar of some kind.

I didn't realize the purpose of the Military Wrap was to prevent spring wrap.

Not necessarily prevent, but it helps.

I finally started tearin' into the rear.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6346.jpg
It's got an open carrier.

I'm not surprised considering how easily I got stuck on a couple occasions before I tore the Jeep apart. I thought they all had Powerlocks.

So I can either weld it, buy a detroit, or hope the other CJ10 I have has a Powerlok in the rear and rape it.

Good to see you chuggin along. I like the idea of a D70 front. I have a feeling more of these hybrids will pop up later.

Lookin good

I didn't realize the purpose of the Military Wrap was to prevent spring wrap.

The main reason to run a military wrap is so you do not break an eyelet off the spring and get stranded in the middle of nowhere. Having that extra leaf wrapped around the eyelet is extra insurance for those of us still running leaf springs.

The main reason to run a military wrap is so you do not break an eyelet off the spring and get stranded in the middle of nowhere. Having that extra leaf wrapped around the eyelet is extra insurance for those of us still running leaf springs.

Thanks, that was what I had been lead to believe.

For those of you who didn't see my thread in Gen4x4 the other day:

While mocking together the front axle, I noticed that the passenger side spring perch would be in a really crappy position. It would be way too close the the chunk to find any way to put a u bolt.

The options I was considering was to either machine into the chunk to so I could use 2 bolts to hold down one side of the spring plate or outboard the spring hanger a few more inches.

Machining it like the stock Dodge 60 center chunk would've been a pain and it would have removed more material than I would have been comfortable with.

So I was really considering outboarding.

But someone suggested I use a longer short side inner. But I had already cut the 70 tube and the part sticking off the 60's c was too short(due to cutting it off at the 60s chunk) for me to feel comfortable sleeving over it to make it longer. And it would make the axle wider.

But then someone suggested a using a specific Spicer 32" long side inner shaft.
I liked this idea because I wouldn't have to lengthen the long side of the 70 tube(it was a couple inches too short because of the neck down) and I would end up with around a 65" WMS to WMS which would be awesome.

But, it seems I couldn't find that shaft anywhere.

But I just found someone who has 3 laying around. So I think I'm gonna get all 3. I doubt I'll ever break one with the sd33, but if I ever go to a LS motor or something I'd like to be prepared.

Outboarding woulding have been that tough with the way the CJ10's hangers are, but I like the idea of having a narrower axle. Especially since I'm going to narrow the rear anyway.

And I'm gonna be linking the front within a year or so. If I can ever get a job.

I want some opinions on what to do for my differentials:

I know I have 1 powerlok and 1 open diff. I'm gonna check the other CJ10 once I get back to my dad's next week, but I'm guessin' a powerlok.

What do ya'll think would be my best option?
1)Powerlok front and rear
2)Powerlok front and welded rear
3)Welded front and powerlok rear
4)Detroit front and powerlok rear
5)Powerlok front and Detroit rear
6)Welded Front and Detroit rear
7)Detroit Front and Welded rear

...I think I covered all my options.

I'll budget a Detroit if it I decide I really need one. I doubt I'd want a welded front, so we can probably eliminate those options.

Remember this won't be street driven.

And should I use poly or rubber bushing on the springs?

I'm gonna order some tomorow.

I'm running spool rear, powerlok front... don't know how well it'll like 40s, but it's what I'll be running until I get the budget for an ARB next year.

Got the box4rocks and twin sticks for a flipped dana 300 in
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6353.jpg

I've got a guy lined up to send me the right input for the 231. Until then, I have some other things I can be doing like go through the 300 and finish building my axles and junk.

I picked up a piece of 16 gauge sheet metal and cut out a piece to finish the front of the bed. I'm gonna try to use a bead roller on it tomorrow and stiffen it up.

Well the wife know's what kinda gifts to give me:
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6354.jpg

It worked awesome cutting up the rear axle.
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r57/TAWL_BOY/IMG_6355.jpg

I'm taking it down from 75" WMS to WMS to 64". The passenger side axle shaft is 1" longer than the driver side, so I'm narrowing the passenger side 6" and the driver side 5" so I'll I need it one spare.(doubt I'll need a spare anytime soon with the stock motor and these axles)

Cool a porta-band.. great gift.


I'm going to buld a new vise bracket for mine this time home. If you want I can make one for you too. Then you just need to find a decent priced foot switch.

Heck yeah. Apparently Harbor Freight has a good foot switch for $12.