I picked up a front D44-chev style today that I'm going to trow under my 4runner. I have a quick question, this axle is a '73, but it only has the driver side flat-top knuckle, anyone know why it wouldn't have both flatties? I thought all '76 and older had flat-tops at both ends??

Thanks! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

the old owner of the truck needed a kunckle most likly and just put one on

That's what I was thinking. I'll just get a flat top for that side and be done with it. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by dangerber:
<STRONG>I thought all '76 and older had flat-tops at both ends?? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Mine was a 78 3/4 ton w/ d44 and didnt have flattops.

Originally posted by YDB:
<STRONG>Mine was a 78 3/4 ton w/ d44 and didnt have flattops.</STRONG>

That would make sense. All '76 and OLDER, 75, 74, 73, 72,...I think 78 would be a newer year <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by dangerber:
<STRONG>I picked up a front D44-chev style today that I'm going to trow under my 4runner. I have a quick question, this axle is a '73, but it only has the driver side flat-top knuckle, anyone know why it wouldn't have both flatties? I thought all '76 and older had flat-tops at both ends??

Thanks! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

EVERY D44 GM version I have laid my orbs on had flat tops both sides. NOW understand when people say flat top they still need to be machined to get a surface needed to bolt a arm on. It just a raw casting that is thick enough and correct shape to be machined that is what they mean by "Flat Top".
If it doesn't have the correct casting then maybe you have a newer axle than you thought. The 10 bolts phased in around 77-78. The knuckle out is interchangable with the D44 so you can get the older knuckles and put them on. Make sure you get both knuckles off the same truck and try to get the tierod. The Tirods had a few different revisions. some went in from the top some from the bottom some the arm was offset a little different. SO it's best to get a matched set unless you got the other side with you to match them up and make sure they will jive together.
Dana built the 10 bolt in fact and most have the DANA <> cast into the pumpkin. If it is a 10 it may have GM12 cast into the side of the diff housing.