damn! looks good. mine is back in the pasture for the next year. hopefully it doesn't rot too much.

you know just when i think i know how i want to do my rock sliders i see how you set up ur boatsides and I've always wanted to boat side all my rigs so now I guess I'm gonna have to haha:flipoff2:

damn! looks good. mine is back in the pasture for the next year. hopefully it doesn't rot too much.

come on , get some work done! :flipoff2:

come on , get some work done! :flipoff2:

I wish I could:(

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904371/fullsize/decklid-bottom.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904372/fullsize/decklid99.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904373/fullsize/rearlegroom.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904374/fullsize/rearlegroom2.jpg

Trevor let me use his band saw for the outriggers
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904375/fullsize/outriggers.jpg

Looks good Damon. You going to drop the floor for back seats?

not the first go round. Ill wait till the boys are a little bigger. With the added leg room, it should be good for a few years.

Looking good, I like the "trunk"

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904594/fullsize/p1220404.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904595/fullsize/p1220405.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904596/fullsize/p1220406.jpg

cut outs in floor and A pillar cage mount if you look close
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904597/fullsize/p1220407.jpg

32.75 to top of rocker
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/904598/fullsize/p1220408.jpg

I am diggin the rockers :grinpimp: What are you going to skin them with?

rockers will get UMHW or whatever its called. Im copying Dboy.

got some more work done on the rear seat area.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905412/fullsize/backseatarea.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905413/fullsize/baclseatarea2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905418/fullsize/seatsin.jpg

11" under the tire
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905414/fullsize/reartirestuff.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905416/fullsize/reartirestuff3.jpg

6" for compressed coil length at what I hope to be full bump. Might have to rethink the coil idea.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/905417/fullsize/reartirestuffspring.jpg

Have you mocked up the front seats to see where the steering wheel & pedals will be?

I'd do that & then decide if you want to ditch the bulkhead (you probably will).

the whole point of this is to ditch the bulkhead.

so I am rethinking the build a bit. originally, i was gonna go with a full top and interior cage. I have debating dove tailing front/rear, but don't want to lose all the bed space I have worked so hard to make for the boys.

Here is what I was originally doing (as a reminder, ignore the height)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/845542/fullsize/p1130003.jpg

Here is what I am thinking now. A cab and a half, with an exo cage, X'd out inside the hard top. The hard top would have snap on windows all the way around. Tube would come through the hard top/sides, and make seat mounts and add triangulation. what do you guys think, ugly, ok, stupid, etc?

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/906443/fullsize/halfcab1.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/906449/fullsize/halfcabback2.jpg

^Yes^ It looks like a sport-top :smokin: I wouldnt worry about a dovetail, you dont want to hack up all that work on the storage box. With full widths and maybe a few ninja bars you shouldnt have trouble keeping the rocks out of the fenders. Looks really good, keep it up. 9 months left!

looks similar to what Cory did with his terra. He cut the top down to a cab and a half so his kids had room. I'm with Dboy on this one.... don't dove tail it, especially in the back. I have contemplated doing the same thing but don't want to give up any interior space. I'm also not a fan of the exo cage look :barf: Rock scout is exo'd over the rear quarter panels and doesn't look bad. You could do something like that to protect all the work you have done back there and maybe pinch the front. I don't remember.... Is it a trailer queen??

no, Im too close to the con and fordyce to trailer.

not a fan of the exo look either, but they are super functional, and at 6'3", I need to save as much interior room as possible. My hope was, with a permanent hard top on, I could make the exo close to the cab and reduce the ugly factor.

no, Im too close to the con and fordyce to trailer.

not a fan of the exo look either, but they are super functional, and at 6'3", I need to save as much interior room as possible. My hope was, with a permanent hard top on, I could make the exo close to the cab and reduce the ugly factor.

Not sure if you can reduce the ugly factor on a scout in general :D As far as losing space in the rear, no space between the fenders was harmed in the making of the dove tail.

yeah, I taped it out, and would lose most of the rear storage above the fenders. Im raising the rear floor already for fuel tank stuff, and just dont want to lose the rest. i would rather exo or do ninja bars of some sort.

I could see how being 6'3" would be tight on head room. Im 5'11" and come close to my cage. I say show us this exo thingy.... Hell... We might just like it:D

so head room is ging to be TIGHT. Its sorta hard to tell, but with a seat sitting on the rear floor, I have just under 2" of head room. Id realy like to raise the seat some for better over the hood vision. Id sure like to find a way to 'raise the roof'.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/907603/fullsize/p2090452.jpg

the buckets just give some visual clearance. At 24.25" frame height these two buckets still have about 2" clearance at the rocker gaurds
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/907606/fullsize/p2090456.jpg

A pictures' worth a tho....:eek::eek::eek:

Looks great! looking forward to Oct! Gotta have 'er done by then!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q318/terryd29601/web.jpg

Damon, I would say that it is much less work to raise the roof vs a dove tail. you would need new glass but the body work would be a snap.

what do you think? Raise the windshield, door frame and then just raise the hard top to match? I was thinking, cut out the top part of the top and raise that too.

You may be able to raise the crown of the top and not mess with the glass. Or you could put in a Dan Gurney blister:D like on his GT 40

What came to mind was something under the bottom on the back half and on top of the windshield. Just lower the top for the windows.

You still looking to weld some aluminum?

got the alum taken care of, thanks

been busy doing tedious shit

Ive tacked tacked tacked the main portion of the rear together
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909271/fullsize/rearfloorwall.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909272/fullsize/rearfloorwall2.jpg

started woringon the firewall/tunnel cover
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909273/fullsize/tunnel.jpg

drivers side
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909269/fullsize/driverstunnel.jpg

pass side
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909270/fullsize/pass-tunnel.jpg

Welded the rear truss, and thought about the tranny/tcase mounts. I never really liked the tcase mounts, so I was thinking about making a tray style mount from the klune
mount to the 205 pto cover

'mocked' 205 mount
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909274/fullsize/205bracket.jpg

D you think I need to make a new PTO cover out of 1/4 or 3/8, or can I just weld a plate on the stock cover??

New plate for sure

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/sff5758/YJ%20Buggy%20Build/S6300342.jpg
I cut a new PTO cover out of 1/4" for my 203/205 combo. No issues so far. Glad I went that route

thanks. I was just being lazy.

did you use that mounting foot also, just forward of that?

I successfully used the klune mounting foot and a torque arm form the 205 in the last build, but wanted to free up access to the klune drain plugs and front driveshaft bolts, so I am experimenting with different designs. I am just concerned with not supporting the klune enough.

some more interior work lately. PITA

from this

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/909270/fullsize/pass-tunnel.jpg

to
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/911531/fullsize/p3160463.jpg



http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/911530/fullsize/p3160462.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/911529/fullsize/p3160461.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/911528/fullsize/p3160460.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/911527/fullsize/p3160459.jpg

Good progress Damon , looks good.

pedal just clears
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/912325/fullsize/pedalclearance.jpg

outrigger covers
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/912323/fullsize/outriggercover.jpg

so its time to buy some tube. Im leaning toward 2" for the cage and bumpers. Anyone have photos of some 2" cages?

Why are you looking at 2" vs. 1.5" or 1.75"...?

You like the looks of a fat tube?

I did 1.75 on my bronco and always felt it looked a little small, and yes I sorta like the look of the fatter tube.

Looks good Damon, But was the head room an issue and you want to go with 2" tube? just sayin :D

Looking good, nice work. My cage is 2" tube.

planning on raising the roof 3"

lots of thinking/planning/drinking this 4 day off.

Did pick one project to complete. I think I needed to see something finished, so I chose making the new twin stick mount.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/912993/fullsize/shifterbracketnew.jpg



edit:

so, and granted I am a few beers deep, I have been thinking. The rear fenders were gonna be a pain, and likely smooshed. The cage leaves little head room as planned inside the top, and I really have been hankering to pinch the back end, but didnt want to lose valuable rear space. SOOOOOO,

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/913006/fullsize/side.jpg
Im thinking of skinning the tub with some 10 gauge. Using the stock rear fenders from the door back, say 12", and pinching those to meet the flat faced tub. Then using the stock end caps (just trimmed to fit the flat "tub" 10 gauge. I could then use an in/exo (yeah I am back to that) to save had room, protect the fenders, and use the body as a pivot point. It would basically only loook like an exo above the fenders (top area). Wish I could MS paint worth a shit, it would prolly make a lot more sense.

Sorry, Its my sunday and the family is all asleep (and sick)

some interior stuff.

tunnel covers and floor clearance for the front shaft

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/915037/fullsize/dshaftclearance.jpg

working on the dash. Tried to get the old one to work, but it just was going to be too much work, so I made a new one out of 14 guage and some aluminum
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/915035/fullsize/dash1.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/915036/fullsize/dash2.jpg

Damon, That sheet metal work is looking good. I think you may need some more instruments :flipoff2: I only counted 8,: I think I need 10.:D

Damon, That sheet metal work is looking good. I think you may need some more instruments :flipoff2: I only counted 8,: I think I need 10.:D


1: tach
2: fuel
3: voltage
4: water temp
5: tranny temp
6: exhaust temp (diesel)
7: speedo
8: oil pressure
9: I'm running out of ideas
10 clock:flipoff2:

Looks good.

That is a lot of sheet metal work for sure.

the two large ones on either end are 6.5" marine speakers. The smaller gauges are w,v,fuel,oil. The larger two in the middle are speed/tach

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/915036/fullsize/dash2.jpg

And God said "Let there be Tunes!"

Not a bad Idea, speakers right on the dash! Won't have to Crank the tunes to high to hear them.

well, that, and I can run without doors and still have music up front

I like that design. Time to make some holes in my dash, lol.

small progress, despite the time spent on it. Lots of measuring and clearance checks. The smaller template will be switches, and the heater switch will go below that. Waiting on some parts and pieces prior to completing things.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/915509/fullsize/p4140341.jpg

have you planned out where your seats are going to be with that big coffin box that "looks" like it is pretty high and way into the drivers floor?

Could be deceiving...but looks like not much room?

So...after "thumbing" through this thread for the last hour or so, maybe I missed it. But why did you not just throw it on the old bronco frame? Could have added the length there and probably had less to do.

SWS

bronco frame is C channel, wide and BIG.

Seats will go at the top of the back step up section. Its a comfortable ride height for me, and works fine with the coffin.

I understand that...but why not make it what you wanted? Too much work? Just adding to the Scout easier?

SWS

So...after "thumbing" through this thread for the last hour or so, maybe I missed it. But why did you not just throw it on the old bronco frame? Could have added the length there and probably had less to do.

SWS

I understand that...but why not make it what you wanted? Too much work? Just adding to the Scout easier?

SWS

Holy Crap This newb is right!! Plug, you’re going to have to tear that whole thing apart and start over, clearly you’re doing it all wrong.

:shaking:

Maybe he was molested by a bronco in his youth and is having seperation anxiety :D.

Anyways, good progress Plug. Shits coming together. Have you made a final decision on what you are doing to the rear yet? I might swing by and check out your progress when Im home from school to learn a few things for my future build.

If that is a crack towards me, you are obviously only on this site and have never seen what I do, or what I am able to do. My question was because I am not familiar with the frame with which he started. But since I have a Bronco that is IH powered, and have liked the Scout since seeing them when I was a kid, I have always wanted one.

So, like I said, is it more work to do that to the Bronco frame or is just adding to the Scout frame easier?

SWS

If that is a crack towards me, you are obviously only on this site and have never seen what I do, or what I am able to do. My question was because I am not familiar with the frame with which he started. But since I have a Bronco that is IH powered, and have liked the Scout since seeing them when I was a kid, I have always wanted one.

So, like I said, is it more work to do that to the Bronco frame or is just adding to the Scout frame easier?

SWS

I don't care about your 6.9 powered bronco, your asking a stupid question and being a cocky prick, neither of which are going to get you very far in this forum.

If you own a bronco and looked at plug ugly's pictures then you've now seen both frames. Maybe you could use that amazing thinker that's capable of such awesome things and come up with a conclusion yourself.

But if your still haveing a hard time. Yes, it would have been harder to take the weaker bronco frame and make it work for the scout.

Lol.

I'd post a cookie, but I don't want clutter up Damon's thread.

66scout, come on by.

seawalker, I know you are on FSB, and I believe your questions are genuine, dont sweat it.

I had considered using the bronco frame, but I built, rebuilt that thing for 10 plus years which resulted in holes, welds and brackets throughout. Things (xmembers, etc) were not going to be int he correct location, so it would have required moving them to begin with. It was simpler, and stronger IMO, to start from scratch. I knew I would have links front and rear (though I didnt think I was going there yet) and using that C channel frame poses some complications. I really like the ease of the 'squarish' frame (it IS 51 years old, and I am not a very good welder)

some more dash work.

drivers side is trimmed and bent
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918778/fullsize/dashmock3.jpg

waiting on the heater to trim the pass side
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918781/fullsize/dashmock6.jpg

here is the mock up of the rear fenders I was talking about before.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918782/fullsize/rearmock.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918783/fullsize/rearmock2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918784/fullsize/rearmock3.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/918786/fullsize/rearmock5.jpg

Dash looks pimp:grinpimp:

I like the half cab mini pick-up look, too.

Can't wait to see it finished :beer:

Are you going to put the rear skins/end-caps back on or are you going to use the inners as outers?

was leaning toward just skinning it like it looks with the cardboard and ditching the factory rear quareter panels. It effectively dove tails the rear 3" each side and is easier to replace in addition to saving weight.

cardboard would be a lot lighter :flipoff2:

got the tub sandblasted, lizard skinned the interior and dropped it off to get a bedliner sprayed inside and out. This was a major hurdle to get over.

Spent some time finishing up the frame. still more to do.

Cut the rear crossmember out of the way, the links were hitting it.


I also was having some clearance issues with the highsteer arms, steering box, panhard, etc, so I raised the front frame 4". I still have the plate the sides. I made it longer like this so I could add support to the motor mounts.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/924000/fullsize/frontframecut1.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/924001/fullsize/frontframecut2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/924003/fullsize/frontframecut3.jpg