I have an 85 GM Dana 60 axle with 35 spline inners and 30 spline outers. The question is should I run the 30 spline stuff untill it breaks and then upgrade? Or spend the money and upgrade? So far I've had zero breakage up front and have wheel some hard trails like Fordyce and Rubicon.

$480 online for Warn hubs 62672, Yukon 4340 full circle clip 35 spline shafts and 5-733x U-joints.
Stage 8 spindle nuts another $51. Might as well toss in some seals for another $26

If you're going to upgrade the stubs to 35 spline, then I vote forget about about the Warn lockouts and get a pair of drive flanges that allow you to pull the puck out and still retain the cap. That'll shave $200 off your total and yield a much stronger setup.

My research has led to believe me that with full locker & good driving up to 38" tires you should be fine with the 30 spline stuff....

When you get up above 40" tires is when you should start worrying about it.

Driving style/ability & axle set up (Welded/Spool vs Full Locker vs LS vs Open) can change that.

For example: 44" tires, with stock stuff & an open Dif might last longer than 42" with a locker.

My research has led to believe me that with full locker & good driving up to 38" tires you should be fine with the 30 spline stuff....

When you get up above 40" tires is when you should start worrying about it.
.


x2

Been doing just fine with my ARB 60 with stock shafts and 40" tires, but I'm not as right footed as the rest of you. :flipoff2:

Or just buy some Longfields.... :flipoff2:

Nice Longfield install write up, when my friend bought his....

http://wheelingaddict.com/wa_bb/showthread.php?t=42





:homer:

I ran the 30 spline stubs until I blew one then upgraded. The stub shaft did some damage to the spindle when it went. I don't regret waiting to upgrade but spindles aren't cheap.

When you grenade the stub shaft and take out the spindle and your fucked. You'll say "Damn, I should have gotten that 35 spline stuff".

If you're going to upgrade the stubs to 35 spline, then I vote forget about about the Warn lockouts and get a pair of drive flanges that allow you to pull the puck out and still retain the cap. That'll shave $200 off your total and yield a much stronger setup.

how will getting drive slugs shave $200 off the order? Premos are ~$185 a pair, and have lifetime warranty. I run premos and beat the piss out of them on 40 ltbs, have yet to break one. I carry a set of d70 slugs to throw in if a premo breaks, then just get the hubs warrantied when you get home. Im not saying the premos are stronger than slugs, but they arent near as bad as many say. I broke a 35 spline 4340 outer before the premo broke

You need to replace that 30 spline stuff unless you plan to drive like a complete web wheeler...When axles break they can often take out other parts with them. Why screw around with it?

how will getting drive slugs shave $200 off the order? Premos are ~$185 a pair, and have lifetime warranty. I run premos and beat the piss out of them on 40 ltbs, have yet to break one. I carry a set of d70 slugs to throw in if a premo breaks, then just get the hubs warrantied when you get home. Im not saying the premos are stronger than slugs, but they arent near as bad as many say. I broke a 35 spline 4340 outer before the premo broke

I misread his post... I was thinking $480 for just the Warn hubs the first time I read it. Drive flanges are like $280.

Guess that's what I get for not paying attention....:homer:

how will getting drive slugs shave $200 off the order? Premos are ~$185 a pair, and have lifetime warranty. I run premos and beat the piss out of them on 40 ltbs, have yet to break one. I carry a set of d70 slugs to throw in if a premo breaks, then just get the hubs warrantied when you get home. Im not saying the premos are stronger than slugs, but they arent near as bad as many say. I broke a 35 spline 4340 outer before the premo broke

I've broken them.

I've broken them.

as many other people have...but I want those to be the weak link in my front end. for one, they are free to replace if they break, and 2 its a 5 minute trail fix.

as many other people have...but I want those to be the weak link in my front end. for one, they are free to replace if they break, and 2 its a 5 minute trail fix.

And for three it could cost you a detroit locker if you have one.

Thanks. I'm taking the axle apart to do a cleaning and inspection this week, and thats the reason for the question.
Billavista has a good write up in the tech section too.

And for three it could cost you a detroit locker if you have one.

my front is spooled :)

my front is spooled :)

That's easy on stock 30 spline junk :shaking: :flipoff2:

That's easy on stock 30 spline junk :shaking: :flipoff2:

35 spline 4340 shafts inners and outers and longfield joints...no stock 30 spline junk here.

Got everything apart and found one wheel bearing was going bad. So I'm glad I tore everything down. The carrier won't come out, so will need to make a spreader. The plan is to work some side jobs and get enough money to fix it up right.

With stuck carriers, I've had lock doing the following:
Things needed: ratchet strap or similar, bottle jack, & some short 2x4s, & a 2' 4x4.
Stack the 2x4s on either side of the carrier, along the line of the axle. Make sure that they are past the area where the carrier bearings sit.
Place the 4x4 on the 2x4's, running over the carrier.
Place the bottle jack on the 4x4 in the middle over the carrier.
Run the strap through the carrier & over the jack, and make it snug.
Start jacking.
When the carrier "pops" out of the housing, it will hit the wood of the 4x4, so it shouldn't hurt the gears.

It's a lot easier when the axle is pulled, vs sitting in your rig.

35 spline 4340 shafts inners and outers and longfield joints...no stock 30 spline junk here.

My bad :homer:

With stuck carriers, I've had lock doing the following:
Things needed: ratchet strap or similar, bottle jack, & some short 2x4s, & a 2' 4x4.
Stack the 2x4s on either side of the carrier, along the line of the axle. Make sure that they are past the area where the carrier bearings sit.
Place the 4x4 on the 2x4's, running over the carrier.
Place the bottle jack on the 4x4 in the middle over the carrier.
Run the strap through the carrier & over the jack, and make it snug.
Start jacking.
When the carrier "pops" out of the housing, it will hit the wood of the 4x4, so it shouldn't hurt the gears.

It's a lot easier when the axle is pulled, vs sitting in your rig.

Or you could use a case spreader like your supposed to with non-slip fit carriers. Even if you do leverage, yank, jack the carrier out without a spreader, it's next to impossible to get proper carrier bearing preload without using a spreader. I know, I know... millions of gears have been setup without using a spreader, but I'd be willing to bet that the vast majority of them did not achieve proper preload on the carrier bearings.

I've got some 2" x 3/8" and 1/2" hot rolled flat bar in the shed, so no trip to the "big" store needed. I have a concrete stake thats 3/4" I can cut up for pins. Lots of nuts and bolt laying around.
Once built, I'll set up the dial caliper and open the housing .010 and see if the carrier will pop out. This will also give me a good number for putting it back in.
Was thinking Detroit but since I drive this on the street, I'm going back to my original idea of an ARB as that will be the most street friendly and I bought and installed the air pump like 2 years ago:shaking:.

Edit... Yes I will most likely be pulling the axle out as it will be much easier to work on.

Craig... did you get the .pdf?

I just bought an ARB for my 60 a few weeks ago. After doing some shopping around, the best deal I found for an RD35 was from Classic City Off Road (CCOR here on the board). Trouble free transaction...

Craig... did you get the .pdf?

Yes I got it, very nice drawing. THANKS
I also got a side job to help pay for parts and they want me to start working like yesterday, so I can't build it until next week. This will give me time to look for some CR 7/8 dowel rod.

Might just have to make a vid like I did with your tie rod clamp design:smokin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V97CmVXStbw

Yes I got it, very nice drawing. THANKS
I also got a side job to help pay for parts and they want me to start working like yesterday, so I can't build it until next week. This will give me time to look for some CR 7/8 dowel rod.

Might just have to make a vid like I did with your tie rod clamp design:smokin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V97CmVXStbw

I got lucky.... when I went into the steel supplier, I glanced over in the drops bin and right on top was an 8" piece of 7/8 CR right on top of the pile. They sold it to me for $1. It's not shown on the drawing, but you may have to retain the dowels in the side bars somehow.... either weld them in or use a set screw. Some red lock tight might just do it as well.

Just to let you know working two jobs sucks. I've heard there are people out there without a job so once I get the first paycheck I quitting.:flipoff2:
I've been working my ass off to fix this D60. The cost are adding up fast depends on what all I replace.

Here is a list of all the parts I've looked up so far.

Warn 35 spine hubs 62672, Yukon 4340 35 spine outers and Spicer 5-733x greaseable U-joints
Kit price (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?cPath=94_25_158&products_id=29&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... ..........................480.00........ 480.00
full circle clips...............................8.00.........8 .00
4.56 Ring and Pinion (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?cPath=94_25_95&products_id=240&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... ..........210.00........ 210.00
Master Install kit (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?cPath=94_25_95&products_id=42&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b)(Timkin).. ...........129.00........ 129.00
2 kits: Wheel bearings and seals (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?products_id=260&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b)......78.0 0........78.00
D60 stage 8 spindle nuts (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?cPath=94_25_107&products_id=262&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... ........0.00........51.00
ARB (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?cPath=94_25_27&products_id=143&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... ................................780.00........780. 00
2 kits: King Pin rebuild (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?products_id=52&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... ..........98.00....... 98.00
2 kits: Spindle bearing (http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=202&rn=1014&action=show_detail)....................22.00...... . 22.00
King pin tool (http://www.4wdfactory.biz/osc2.2/product_info.php?products_id=257&osCsid=ba5bd28d5a2ed99c636f75a6581d686b).......... .......................28.00....... 28.00
Outer axle seals (http://madmfg.com/drivetrain-1/dana-axle-parts-111/dana-60-parts-69/dana-60-outer-axle-seal-162.html?zenid=e988982443f8a3e6b197e3ffd0537465)55 each................. 0.00.......110.00
Total :eek:..................................1,833.00... ...1,994.00


Edit forgot the inner axle seals 29.95 pair for the new style spicer ones that spin on the axle

One side did not look to bad, but the other side was a mess. Instead of posting a ton of pic's, I just stuck them on youtube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz-HKo_tSlY). By the time I get the parts I might have to play it backwards.:shaking:

Anybody know the Spicer part number for the new style inner axle seals?
Spicer 52148
Edit... found out these won't fit the older 35 spline shafts.

E-bay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-60-Front-INNER-AXLE-TUBE-SEAL-NEW-DESIGN_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1 262QQcategoryZ33731QQihZ016QQitemZ260321671022QQtc Zphoto#ebayphotohosting)
You are are looking at a pair(2) of Dana 60 inner tube seals these are a new design that turn within themselves no more seal riding on the axle! No more seal grooves! These seals will also fix that old grooved axle you were going to through away.

It's nice having a few days off!! The axle is out, the parts are all cleaned and painted. I find it easier to get the mud off of fresh paint.:evil:
The outers are silver hammerrite the axle is going to be black.
It took a while to get all the bearings/races/grease out, but I got everthing wash, wire wheeled and painted.

Finished knocking out all the races and seals. I used an old 2" driveline to knock out the inner seals, got stuck with all the dryed mud in there, so I had to add water to get the driveline back out. Can you say big mess:shaking:
Everything is cleaned and painted, just waiting on parts.

Tip: to get the Kingpins out weld a chunk of metal to the pin and hit with a BFH. then install with red locktight and as tight as you can get them.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=406035&stc=1&d=1228190094

Tip: To get the spindle bearing out, find two fender washers that will just fit down the spindle. Once in there spread them apart and then drop a washer or two on top of them. From there you can press the bearing out. FYI they are in there tight.

To save time had the ARB and gears installed. Got the axle back and befre installing it I put in new kingpin bearings and races. I took the old race and flapper wheeled the outside so I could use it to install in the new race and grease seal.

Note: seal in pic 4 is upside down, it in that way to check that it is flush, you need to filp it over when installed.

Fix the issue of the grease zerk getting busted off. Welded some tubing around the fitting, plus use a driveline fitting to make it almost flush. For service I can just install a zerk and pump in grease.

Dude... get a Handi Packer. You won't regret it.

http://www.eastwood.com/images/us/local/products/detail/p10033.jpg

Inner bearing fitment issue. Found an old thread and replied. But figure I would put it here too.

Edit... I hit the spindle with some 600 emeory cloth and the bearing slide right on.
It's must have been the cold weather the other night that was messing with me.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=9105392#post9105392

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=407588&stc=1&d=1228764186

Dude... get a Handi Packer. You won't regret it.

http://www.eastwood.com/images/us/local/products/detail/p10033.jpg

How much are those?

Anyone see the episode on Extreme4x4 where they covered this?

Ian used a kitchen vacuum packer for food.

Simply put the bearing & grease in a bag & suck the air out, the lack of air forces the grease into the bearings. Plus when you seal it, you have a dirt free bearing for a trail spear. :)

How much are those?

Anyone see the episode on Extreme4x4 where they covered this?

Ian used a kitchen vacuum packer for food.

Simply put the bearing & grease in a bag & suck the air out, the lack of air forces the grease into the bearings. Plus when you seal it, you have a dirt free bearing for a trail spear. :)

About $20. I just filled it with grease, put the lid on and set it on the shelf. Whenever I need to pack a bearing, I just take the lid off, drop the bearing in and push down the handle thing. If the old grease is not contaminated, I don't even bother to clean the bearing out. Just push down on the handle until you see all the old grease push out and new grease starting to come out. Then just scrape off the old grease off the top of the bearing and it's done. Reduces the time it takes to pack bearings down to just a few seconds.

Ya my wife just bought one of those a few months back. I will just wait until her and the kids are gone and give it a try. If I get caught I will need a place to sleep.

Bunch of parts arrived on Friday, so I started to get some items ready and installed before the big storm (rain) comes ashore. In my rush, ok not thinking straight I pressed in the new u-joints in to only to realize the new shaft take full circle clips. This meant pressing them out and putting the clip on first. I work until like 2am, and it did not do me much good as my brain was fried by then and I kept making stupid little mistakes. One thing I did not know was you have to install the shafts before the knuckles. The stock stuff will come out, but the new won't go in.

I fixed that problem with a diegrinder and a carbide bit. I just groved the knuckel untill I could slide the shaft in.

I fixed that problem with a diegrinder and a carbide bit. I just groved the knuckel untill I could slide the shaft in.


X2

If you grind the knuckle that allows you to remove the shafts on the trail :smokin:

Most people grind the shafts. It's such a small amount to remove that it doesn't make a strength difference.

yep, I just hit the edges with a pearl disc untill they would slide through the knuckle

I had to grind a bit off to get them through. Humm, now do I take the other side apart? Right now I'm to damm tired from working everyday. Being in the warm house is making me sleepy too:zzz:

I got my Mad4wd outer seals and installed them, Seem like a nice product.
My old inner seals were leaking and I suspected it was the mud slurry that gets in there.

Anyway I spent the money and got em, should help keep my ARB nice and clean too.

If I were you I would fix the inner seals too. What happens when the tube fills up with gear oil?.........The diff is empty or real low.:eek:

If I were you I would fix the inner seals too. What happens when the tube fills up with gear oil?.........The diff is empty or real low.:eek:

Then you add more to the diff!!!!!!:D:D:D

I had to grind a bit off to get them through. Humm, now do I take the other side apart? Right now I'm to damm tired from working everyday. Being in the warm house is making me sleepy too:zzz:
Just ask yourself if you'd rather take the other side apart in the relative comfort and convenience of your driveway/garage or on the side of some off-camber, muddy trail when it's getting dark and starting to rain. :flipoff2:

If I were you I would fix the inner seals too. What happens when the tube fills up with gear oil?.........The diff is empty or real low.:eek:
I'm pretty sure he did when he had the axle apart for the ARB install. He was asking about some different type of Spicer inner seals a while back.

Just ask yourself if you'd rather take the other side apart in the relative comfort and convenience of your driveway/garage or on the side of some off-camber, muddy trail when it's getting dark and starting to rain. :flipoff2:

I'm pretty sure he did when he had the axle apart for the ARB install. He was asking about some different type of Spicer inner seals a while back.

Yes all new seals everywhere. :smokin:

After having to use the 20 ton press to get the new U-joints into the 4130 shafts I'm thinking a mini press would be cool trail tool. I carry the smallest 2ton jack now. ( yes I carry a high lift :flipoff2:) Maybe figure out something with a couple flat bars that could be used. The 4 pound hammer and a socket will work too.
Edit.. I could not get the u-joints in with my bench vise either...


I decided to grinding the shafts over the knunkle as that was easy. Plus I can't find my carbide burr bit either.

After having to use the 20 ton press to get the new U-joints into the 4130 shafts I'm thinking a mini press would be cool trail tool.

Depending on the trip, I sometimes carry this. (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/38300-38399/38335.gif

Only thing bad about it is that it weighs a ton.

What u-joints to you have in there Craig?

I have a set of Bobby Long's "super joints" or whatever the hell he calls them. I don't plan on having one fail, and if it did I'd probably have much bigger problems to worry about anyway. At the price those style joints are selling for, you can bet that I won't have a spare u-joint with me on the trial.

I will probably carry a set of stock shafts as spares to limp off the trail, but I don't have the cash to afford spare cromo shafts and blingin' u-joints.

Mike that tool looks cool. I now put spare parts and tools that would be nice to have, but aren't going with me on the trail where I can easily tell my wife where to find them:laughing:

Spicier 806 stuff. I thought once I joined the 35 spline club I don't need spares:D Just kidding! But I don't plan on carrying any spare axle parts as its just to much weight on an already over loaded pig. I have been taking less and less spare parts. Heres my check list.

Ok one more note. USE the tall seals for the kingpin on a GM 60. Billavista says the short ones are the correct ones. Had I not did most of my work at night I would have noticed the short seals leave a 1/16 gap:mad3: Oh well I going to pull it apart after the trip to hollister in March anyways.

Here a pic of the ARB and a couple pic's using it:D

I finished up about 11am on Sunday and head to the snow.:smokin: I took the road from Icehouse res to Wrights lake it was covered in at least a foot of snow, I only got about 100 yards before needing to engauge the locker. I ran street tire pressure going in, decided to turn around and head back out and got stuck. Aired down and drove right out.