So I’m finally ready to put pressure to the brake system, here’s a little history. New brake lines from Classic tube all the way around, new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, Goodridge stainless braided extended lines, and replaced distribution block from a local salvage yard. The distribution block looks to be in great shape although I’m not 100% sure that a 75’ CJ5 with 11” drums used a distribution block like this. I bench bled the master cylinder and filled the both bowls and proceeded to pump the pedal maintaining the fluid levels. After only four or five pumps of the pedal I noticed some leakage at the distribution block so I stopped. After further inspection I noticed that there was also leaks at the rear were the single line splits into two at the axle and the drives side rear at the wheel cylinder. I tell ya, after this my confidence level on this project has taken a real beating, out of the 16 or so connection points and I have come up with 4 or 5 leaking points. This is not a good sign.

My question is this, is it possible to over torque brake line connections? I didn’t strip any out but I sometimes tend to over tighten things, but on brake lines with a double flare I figured tighter the better. Has anybody done a total brake line replacement like this that would have any input please? I don’t know what else to do short of pulling all the leak points and trying to reflare the ends if there is enough slack in the lines to do so. Also would it matter if I was trying to pump fluid in to the system without opening a wheel cylinder purge fitting to allow air to escape the system first?

1st thing...back the nut off and make sure that the line is entering straight into it...hold it to it's seat while you retighten the nut (BTW, check for cracks when you pull the line out in the first place). They need to be pretty tght but if you try to put all your weight into them, you will split the line...once you have them all reseated and tight, try again..if they still leak, tighten them a little bit more...keep trying this until it goes away...

If, for some reason you crack one of the flares, you can buy a flaring kit from Autozone or most other auto parts stores...Just cut the end off...MAKE SURE TO PUT THE NUT BACK ON ;) ...and then reflare it...

"MAKE SURE TO PUT THE NUT BACK ON " LOL. I can't tell you how many times I've done that or put the nut on the wrong direction. I do own a double flaring kit if it come to that. I was just talking to a guy here at work that suggested that I invest in a decent set of hydraulic wrenches. I guess unlike an open end box wrench these will wrap around the fitting nut more securely so you can really toque them down tight. Sounds like good advice, I’ve been a little afraid of stripping the nuts on these fittings the way I’ve been doing it.

Ditto on the flare wrenches. Just plain useful tools.

I've tried to use the bar & yoke style flare tools from Autozone and the like. As far as I'm concerned, pure garbage. The best flare tool I've found yet is from J.C. Whitney of all places. It's a pliers style tool, and the double flare adapters are extra. After about 2 or 3 practice runs, you'll probably never make another bad flare.

ChiXJeff

Originally posted by CJ_JEEPER
My question is this, is it possible to over torque brake line connections? I didn’t strip any out but I sometimes tend to over tighten things, but on brake lines with a double flare I figured tighter the better.

So the new brake lines do indeed have double-flared ends? I know you purchased the lines new from Classic Tube- but are you sure they were flared properly? Could be that the lines are not flared correctly, or that they are cracked from the flaring process or from being over-torqued. Also, are the brake line nuts in good shape? Maybe try replacing the brake line nuts if you go the route of re-flaring the line(s).