: Twisted my @#!$% axle tube!!!!!!!!
MossMan 08-12-2002, 07:21 AM I can't believe this. I snapped a driveshaft the other day going up a rocky hill. No big deal I thought. It was just the slip yoke portion of the ds. Not the first time it has happened, $30 dollar piece and a u-joint and it's fixed. Well I was going to put it back in on Sat. so I could go wheelin'. We get under the Jeep and my brother says "what the hell is wrong with your spring over here? Why does it look like an S" Well no fawking wonder the ds snapped. My pinion and pass. side axle tube torqued up prolly 8-10*. :eek: What a pain in the ass. I started to weld those bitches when I put the 8.8 in there and i didn't. DUMBASS. :mad: Oh well. I'm going to give it one more chance and then I'm going to 60's.:D
Thank you very much for sharing your misfortune with us. It added such wonderment to my day and others' I'm sure.
If you had done your homework on the bbs, you would have seen that many people have had problems spinning 8.8 tubes. Maybe then you would have welded them up rather than being a lazy ass.
Next time you feel compelled to whine about your misfortune, don't. We don't care.
cmk
bigdude 08-12-2002, 08:47 AM Originally posted by cmk
Thank you so very much for sharing your misfortune with us. It added such wonderment to my day and others' I'm sure.
Now maybe if you had done your homework on the bbs, you would have seen that many people have had problem spinning 8.8 tubes and you would have welded them up.
Next time you feel compelled to whine about your misfortune, don't. We don't care.
cmk
SMACK
Bawahahahahahaha:laughing:
MossMan 08-12-2002, 08:56 AM Originally posted by cmk
Next time you feel compelled to whine about your misfortune, don't. We don't care.
cmk
point taken.;) NOW KISS ASS!!!!!!!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Nice response! You just garnished far more respect with "point taken" than if you had whined about the e-ass ripping.
See ya' around ... newbie. :flipoff2:
cmk
Keith Strong 08-12-2002, 05:13 PM CM "nice mutha fawkin newbie test" K......How ya been? :flipoff2:
Bigdude....You are just pissed CMK beat ya to him :p
Mossman.....Nice come back...you might survive ;)
Originally posted by Keith Strong
CM "nice mutha fawkin newbie test" K......How ya been? :flipoff2:
... just holdin' up my portion of the fort.
cm "hickup" k
p.s. cm "nuthin' like a night in brew city" k
p.p.s. cm "came home with two new Leine's glasses" k
p.p.p.s. cm "is that a pint glass in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?" k
p.p.p.p.s. cm "it's two" k :D
Rodney YJ 08-13-2002, 05:15 AM Mossman, mine did the exact same thing. I climbed a big rock and snap the rear drive shaft and thought why I have a antiwrap bar. Then noticed my passenger side spring was S shaped and the driver side with the antiwrap bar attached to it was fine. I spun the diff down to match the other side and welded it and no problem since.
emsoffroad 08-13-2002, 07:58 AM Welding around the tubes should be a standard practice. My friend has a D70 that points stright up! I've seen it happen to 10 and 12 bolts, 60s and 70s. So weld them all or get some type of traction bars on them.
As long as we're on the topic here, what is the BEST method with which to weld the low carbon steel tubes to the cast housing?
I've seen it done with a standard MiG setup running gas and it looked fine. Is there a better way?
cmk
MossMan 08-13-2002, 08:40 AM Obviosly an answer I would like to know right now. Somebody here told some shit about using high nickel wire/rod or some shit. Can't find the thread right now. but anyway, when I go to do this how should i go about it to make sure it is bulletproof. also, what's the easiest way to rotate it back to the original position how should i check to make sure it's even with the other side. Thought about using a port-a-power with some kinda brace across the frame rails. seems like that would be pretty easy. but how do i now where to stop?:confused:
emsoffroad 08-13-2002, 09:21 AM The right way to fix it would be to cut the plug welds out and twist it back and reweld. However that is a lot of work. I would leave it where it is, cut off the spring pad. Weld the tube to the center, then weld the spring pad back on. Then add some type of gusset or truss to tie the two tubes and center section together.
As far as what rod to use. 10 diffrent people will tell you 10 diffrent things. I've never had a problem using 7014, 6011, and MIG. Use what you know how to weld with.
Rodney YJ 08-13-2002, 10:23 AM When mine spun the 3 plug welds pop out. I jacked up the rear end of the jeep and used a 12 foot 2" pipe under the center of the diff and strapped it around the front of the pinion so I had this pole exiting the back of my jeep. I sat the pole on a block and lowered the jeep until my pinion turned back down. I used a digital protractor on the brake backing plates and got it to within .3 degree of the other side. I ground some paint off and used a millermatic vintage 220volt welder turned all the way up on the heat and the wire speed was like 45. I filled in the three plug welds and welded 4 one inch beads around the tube to diff on each side. Hasn't given me any problems yet, this is my daily driver and my method I am sure is redneck, but I haven't had to replace the rear end yet.
MossMan 08-13-2002, 12:00 PM Sounds easy enough. Did you use any kind of special wire in the welder?
Rodney YJ 08-13-2002, 12:56 PM Nope, no special wire. I know you should use high nickel stuff, but I didn't and it has held.
GOFER 08-13-2002, 06:58 PM Originally posted by MossMan
Obviosly an answer I would like to know right now. Somebody here told some shit about using high nickel wire/rod or some shit. Can't find the thread right now. but anyway, when I go to do this how should i go about it to make sure it is bulletproof. also, what's the easiest way to rotate it back to the original position how should i check to make sure it's even with the other side. Thought about using a port-a-power with some kinda brace across the frame rails. seems like that would be pretty easy. but how do i now where to stop?:confused:
I have used 7011 adding a little preheat before and only laying down 3 or 4 1" beads not all the way around.
ON getting it rotated back, Hmmm ever heard of dumping it in reverse :)
joefear7 08-15-2002, 12:33 AM When you guys are talking about high nickel wire in a mig would that have to be a stainless wire. I think im gunna weld my dana 70 the way you guys did with regular wire anyway but thought id see what yall said. BTW Rodney YJ were did you get your digital protractor and what brand is it?
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