Well here it is the beginning of my new money pit, sure is a beauty if I do say so myself. My plan is with a lot of long night and even longer weekends to make it to Arizona in march. At this point I don't really think it is possible but I might as well try.

I will be running,

85' reg. cab shortbed frame
DOM Chassis
22RE,L52HD Dual cases rotated adapter and 4.7's
Front all the goodies 30 splines, long. drive flanges, 5.29's, Elocker blah blah..
IFS rear, Moly shafts, 5.29's,Elocker
TG 5" springs
High Angle Drivelines
PRP Seats
All of Brett's parts
37" Red label Krawlers,some kind of alm. rims and stauns
and whatever else I need to throw in there to make the damn thing work.
Here are some pics of my frame shaved. My front and me donor pickup.

With this build I will not be cutting any corners and I want it to be nice. In my line of work if you can't do it right the first time don't do it at all.
Well I think that is about it for now any and all questions or ideas will be would be great since you guys have been doing this a lot longer than I.
Thanks-Ryan

Late nights and long weekends should easily have you wheelin by March. Get busy! Good luck.


Need somebody to exercise that KTM since you'll be busy working on the Ftoy?:D

you,ve been building since yeaserday are you done yet? nice bike we just got 2 ktm 530s for work I love my job:smokin:

Man, other than my duramax that bike was the best thing I have ever purchased. It's a 07' KTM 525 XC Damn thing is a locomotive climbing mountians. Yeah I have plenty of time but my damn job is 50-60 hrs a week and a 1 1/2 drive a day. So hopefuly I can make it happen. I figure if I can have it driving by march 1 I will be alright.

Well, get started. We want to see progress :D.

As soon as my care packages come from Brett we'll
really get this thing moving.


Well, get started. We want to see progress :D.

Ummmm, where's the chassis? :flipoff2:




With this build I will not be cutting any corners and I want it to be nice. In my line of work if you can't do it right the first time don't do it at all.


I was the same way, and it ended up ending my build. :( I hope you get yours done and on time. Best of luck to you.

Ummmm, where's the chassis? :flipoff2:




I was the same way, and it ended up ending my build. :( I hope you get yours done and on time. Best of luck to you.


I heard you were liquidating to buy a house or ??

I was the same way, and it ended up ending my build. :( I hope you get yours done and on time. Best of luck to you.

I'm on a "keep the budget low" build. No bling that I can't build myself, and all "standard" upgraded aftermarket parts, some bought used.

I'm not going to take any shortcuts or do anything that will cause future rework, but I'm definitely going low cost--junkyard tranny and cases, installed my own case gears, friend building the motor, trussed junkyard axles rather than aftermarket, used 30spl Longs, used 15x10 rims, rear springs all the way around.

If something breaks, I won't be out much more than I would have by starting with $$ parts.

I heard you were liquidating to buy a house or ??

I cannot afford to finish it in the first class fashion that I demand of myself. The money I would spend to finish it will be better spent preparing us to buy another house when the time is right. I can't keep asking my family to sacrifice for the rig. I don't NEED the money from liquidating everything, in fact, I'm using the drivetrain pieces to put together a full body street legal rig so I can go wheeling again. In fact, if I can't get 2k for my chassis/frame/bling toolbox guy stuff it will just sit in the garage until the finances come around to finish building it.

Sorry for the hijack, hope nothing like this happens to you Ryan. Looking forward to judging you at an event. :cool:

Chassis is ordered just have to get a day or two free to go pick it up. Right now I don't need it to mount axles and engine. What i really wanted to do was go ride on Pismo for a couple of days and then pick it up on the way back home, but I seem to be working even on my days off right now. Sucks being the service manager/ salesman. I Liked it better when Iwas turning wrenches. When it comes down to it and money is an issue I'll take a note out on Big Black that would be my duramax.

I'm on a "keep the budget low" build. No bling that I can't build myself, and all "standard" upgraded aftermarket parts, some bought used.

I'm not going to take any shortcuts or do anything that will cause future rework, but I'm definitely going low cost--junkyard tranny and cases, installed my own case gears, friend building the motor, trussed junkyard axles rather than aftermarket, used 30spl Longs, used 15x10 rims, rear springs all the way around.

If something breaks, I won't be out much more than I would have by starting with $$ parts.


Nothing wrong with that approach either, in fact, that's how the new rig is going together, it just wasn't what I wanted to do with the F-Toy.

It is a gamble that is for sure. I decided to do this back in feb. whan I found out about ftoy. The biggest part for is to have something very reliable and that I can camp wheel and compete in. Just so happens an ftoy fits all 4 catagories. I have been waiting and buying this for cheap when they come up. I think I paid about $350 for my springs and they are brand new, I do have a another complete 22r-l52 and tcase but found the donnor from a buddy who's little bro flipped it and got it for $400 with 150k on it22re and wire harness and maybe rear axle if it not bent plus the misc. When it comes down to the wire and I need to drop a few grand to make it to the first comp I'll make that call when I get there. As for the parts I'm buying from Brett It's mainly to save time, I have a plasma table at work, dimple dies and the know how but time is money and I could just work to make the money and my build will go faster.Since I have to work anyway. Thanks for the support guys, This is the main reason why I want to compete in this class to meet a good group of guys and have funn. maybe break somew shit too

Sorry not much progress this week waiting on some parts from Brett. This weekend I will be pulling the engine from the donor and maybe setting up the front axle. I did how ever score this brand new PRP seat for $150 with slide rails. My donor has the rear I want to use but when it rolled it sheared the axle flange off. Do you guys think the housing could be bent? It looks straight but just because it looks straight doesn't mean it is. Any thoughts on this?

That is a really clean frame. What did you do to it?

Back in Feb. 08' when I got the FToy bug, I stole the 85' frame from a buddy and torched everything off, ground smooth, cut circles and filled just about every hole on the thing, then sanded smooth with a flap wheel, then a good sandblasting to even out all of the grind marks, then covered in a good coat of oil so not to rust that bad while it waited for me to get my shit together.I'm still going to fill the rest of the holes in at some point a little here and there. I'd say I put a good 20 hrs into just prepping the frame to this stage. I do want it looking smooth and clean when it's finished.



That is a really clean frame. What did you do to it?

The funny part was when I was sandblasting I had 3, yes 3 different air comp. T'd into a 80gal. tank so I could have enough CFM to do it. It was a sight to see and loud. All three were gas powered 5hp honda's. I even had another elec. Sears from a friend in case I needed another.

Nothing of major value to add, other than I'm listening and am working my own budget buggy. Just picked up an 87 4runner EFI, needs lots of work.

Nothing of major value to add, other than I'm listening and am working my own budget buggy. Just picked up an 87 4runner EFI, needs lots of work.

Where at in New Mexico?

Rio Rancho. I'm using my old user id this time, I couldn't find the password so I setup a new one. I originally was going to build a Formula Nissan. Couple things didn't pan out so I pulled the plug. That left me with #071, we just picked up an 87 4runner as our parts rig. Noticed you're in Farmington, I visit on business every other month or so.

Another in NM!

We should have 4 or so now...when is your est. completion date? I am shooting for a Memorial Day 2009 trip to Moab.

You're much further along then I. Are you on the VJC? I'm pretty much keeping my build there, yet this board has lots of valuable information that's help get me started. I really don't have an EST of completion. I have 19 tool guys to support and my time is controlled by their needs. I'd like to take a look at your rig, share tips, etc. BTW, did you sandblast the frame? I have surface rust to remove. And what wiring harness will you be using?

Nice to see you posting again Junior. What is VJC? I would like to follow your build.

Good to hear from you, the VJC is the new mexico virtual jeep club www.nmvjc.org basically a club without all the club stuff, if you know what I mean. wheeled with them when I first moved to NM, great bunch. Too bad the Nissan thing didn't go. I had a custom front axle housing built so I could stick to the rules using yota, PRP, warn, Trail Ready, anyway Calmini was just too busy to get the chassis and cage together. Steve (Calmini owner) stopped in a couple weeks back and brought the cage to me. After discussion with the banker my son and I opted to build. Nothing to compete in but a fun toy.

Pulled engine from donor, rear axle and wiring with any luck the UPS man will show up this week with my parts from Brett.

Nice engine hoist:D:D

These really don't have anything to do with my FToy they are for my pickup but I thought I would give the guy a plug here for the hell of it. I ordered some of these lights from Roundeyes, let me tell you they are a damn nice piece at an even better price. Hell he even gives you a relay,switch, inline fuse holder, connectors and enough wire to install all for less than 40 bucks. That's one good deal if you ask me. Thanks Roundeyes

Yeah sure is nice being Service Manager at a Harvester MFG. Got the whole shop at my fingertips on the weekends and after hours too bad it's 40miles away. I'll take a pic of that thing. We call it the Boom Truck, just a old Boom tree shaker we built 40yrs ago retrofitted with a hook on the end instead of a shaker head.

Nice engine hoist:D:D

You're much further along then I. Are you on the VJC? I'm pretty much keeping my build there, yet this board has lots of valuable information that's help get me started. I really don't have an EST of completion. I have 19 tool guys to support and my time is controlled by their needs. I'd like to take a look at your rig, share tips, etc. BTW, did you sandblast the frame? I have surface rust to remove. And what wiring harness will you be using?

No, not in VJC...I don't have the time to be in clubs.

Yes, the frame was blasted. I am using an ORS Monster Harness.

nice frame...reminds me of.....oh ya, mine. we are the only 2 who have done that. as far as i know at least.:D

No, not in VJC...I don't have the time to be in clubs.

Yes, the frame was blasted. I am using an ORS Monster Harness.

That's the cool part, it's not a club, just a meeting place online much like this.

I'd like to get a peek at your build. I should be down to bare frame after this weekend. Guy by the name of Josh (local Albq guy) said it would be about $250 blasted. I located a D44 rear yesterday, now all I need is a front. ORS? I PM'ed my cell.

You could blast it yourself for half of that if you have enough air to run it. Get a blaster from Harbor Freight and some sand should cost you around $120 and take a couple of hours. My .02


That's the cool part, it's not a club, just a meeting place online much like this.

I'd like to get a peek at your build. I should be down to bare frame after this weekend. Guy by the name of Josh (local Albq guy) said it would be about $250 blasted. I located a D44 rear yesterday, now all I need is a front. ORS? I PM'ed my cell.

Thought 'bout that, I have a small handheld blaster from Matco. Found sand at Lowes, not sure if my compressor can handle it. I'm going to test a section this weekend. What springs will you be using?

That's the cool part, it's not a club, just a meeting place online much like this.

I'd like to get a peek at your build. I should be down to bare frame after this weekend. Guy by the name of Josh (local Albq guy) said it would be about $250 blasted. I located a D44 rear yesterday, now all I need is a front. ORS? I PM'ed my cell.

Right on...I will have to check VJC out...I might have a hard time hanging out with a club that has *eep in the name though :flipoff2:

ORS = Off Road Solutions

If you are on the NE side give me a ring, I PM'd you as well.

Thought 'bout that, I have a small handheld blaster from Matco. Found sand at Lowes, not sure if my compressor can handle it. I'm going to test a section this weekend. What springs will you be using?


I am using TG 4" due to the rear shackle placement I might have to add a leaf to the rear, we'll see.

Received my front hanger from Brett today. Damn this thing is nice slid right on and tacked it on, threw the springs and axle on there to make myself feel like there is progress being made.

[QUOTE=...I might have a hard time hanging out with a club that has *eep in the name though :flipoff2:[/QUOTE]

I hear ya, I located full width D44 yesterday for $75. He has a match front but needs to pull it fron the rig. While the wife shops the day after T-day this Friday we start pulling the donor apart. Should have a frame ready for blasting but Sunday. I'm ordering motor mounts, some misc brakets etc tomrw.

Holly hijack batman

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

holly hijack batman

oops... :d

:D just joshin ya, glad somebody is getting something out of this slow ass build

Thought 'bout that, I have a small handheld blaster from Matco. Found sand at Lowes, not sure if my compressor can handle it. I'm going to test a section this weekend.

I tried that, didn't work out so well. The sand was to wet and some to big. I just got some blast media from HF. Works better.

I tried that, didn't work out so well. The sand was to wet and some to big. I just got some blast media from HF. Works better.

Headed there today. Now my only problem in going there is...well, I'm a district mangler for Matco Tools. Have to park down the way and sneak in. On with the build.

Well I got motor mounts this week thanks to brett, So I worked on getting the rest of the harness out of the donor and stripping down the engine to be cleaned and a little tune up/ hop up. hopefully this week I can get the engine sitting in the frame and maybe by next monday my rear chassis parts will be here and I can have a rolling chassis. Hopefully by 21st I can get down south to pick up the chassis. Thanks for being so patient Mike H.

:evil:It only took me three months in the shop to get my F-Toy running so you should have it running before march!!!!:smokin:

The goal is too make to Arizona, That's the goal but if I'm coming up short then I'll wait. I'm not going to rush this build, as you can see from my snails pace so far.



:evil:It only took me three months in the shop to get my F-Toy running so you should have it running before march!!!!:smokin:

Engine's off to be freshened up. :D That's Hank my Right hand man or dog. He's good for eating and shitting not much help with a wrench tho.

Im guessing that Hank jumped out of the bed once or twice???

Hank- Not yet and hope never that vet bill could put a end to my ftoy in a hurry, He's only5 months so he's just getting used to being in the back of the truck, plus I always let him run around but he loves getting in the way, so loud truck, being dark and a dark dog, If he got smashed real quick and I wouldn't even hear it. hell he has to be tough his name is Hank The Tank.

Got my engine in tonight, atleast close to where I need it. It's just tacked for now I know I'll have to move it around a little to get the angle that I want.
Hopefully this week i can get Brett to ship out my rear inboards and rear cross/chassis supports/ Shackles. Next will be Picking up chassis from Hendrix, E-Lockers, 5.29Gears, marlin 23 spline 4.7 and MC07 R-10.

What up Ryan, Glad to see your progress is moving forward.
I got a new phone and your cell# did not transfer over to my new one.

Pm me your number, this is Fernando by the way:grinpimp:

Fernando, What up my man? Hows the runner/pickup/tons/whatever else going?
My # cell 624-6898 after 5pm m-f, all day sat&sun
# cell 624-4781 before 5pm m-f

Nice!! how far back is your motor?

the full 8 and 1

the full 8 and 1

That pic from the front makes it look a lot farther back. Looks good:smokin: Brett makes some bling parts for sure.

yeah i think it's tha angle of the pic. I know I'm going to have to move it a little once I get a measurement from the front cross to the crank bolt from somebody hint hint.

yeah i think it's tha angle of the pic. I know I'm going to have to move it a little once I get a measurement from the front cross to the crank bolt from somebody hint hint.

I dont think you can get a good measurement from the cross member do to the after market member I am sure their all different. I measured from the center of the stock location of the motor mounts then 8in. to center of new mounts. your better off waiting till you get your chassie before welding the mounts in. Also on my frame using Hendrix mounts the slope of the frame dropped the motor 1in.

On my chassis, sliding stock mounts 8" back on the 84 frame dropped the motor 5/8".

It's kind of a bitch getting the passenger seat low with the MC07-R10 adapter.

Ryan, these motor mounts look built to the hilt...how much where they and how do I get a hold of Brett? Keep the picks coming. I man'd a whole frame from raw steel and have the cage attached on #071. This won't be a spec car so the Dana's, custom frame, etc DQ me. Just a toy. Keep up the good work.

Junior- Just Pm him ( Thetoolboxguy ) He build some nice stuff that is a fact and the prices are good and fair. I should have the rest of the parts by mon or tues. Those are going to the really nice ones. Yeah I know it's going to be a pain with the rotated adapter but I will be mounting my chassis 2" above the frame so I'm hoping it will be ok and the Girlfriend is 5'7" so she should be okay. Most ppl that will ever ride with me will be atleat 2-3" shorter than me.

Hey Mt4runner- Do you have a measurement from the outside ofthe front cross to the crank pulley center bolt or the flat part of the pulley? Thanks for the good encouragment you guys. I think I spelled that right ;)

What do you guys think the best clutch to use? I was looking at Marlins super heavy duty semi metallic with 1600 lb pressure plate or his ceramic disk with 1600 lb pressure plate. What do you guys think is the best to use for the F-Toy?

What about wheel spacers? Should I run them? My front I bought came with 2" spacers. do I need these things or can I sell them? Any info would help here.

I am not sure about the clutch. I bought a $3-400 centerforce and it works great. In hindsight Im thinking with the low gearing and not slipping the clutch much a stocker would have done great for half the money.
I run 2" wheel spacers on mine. They are great for stability in the trails. I would consider removing them at comps. I ran them last year in all comps. I also think this is neccessary to run a 37" tire and keep the tire off the leaf spring. Unless you are running an IFS rotor and hub set up. The IFS set up makes you about 2" wider.

What about wheel spacers? Should I run them? My front I bought came with 2" spacers. do I need these things or can I sell them? Any info would help here.

Keep in mind that when you push your wheel out you increase what's called 'scrub' angle or simply scrub patch. Less scrub is better, more scrub puts stress on the powersteering. With a ram assist you might be fine, but over time it will fatigue the system. Calculate your scrub, compare it to what others have, and you'll have your answer.

As for clutch, dual friction...I like Centerforce, but we're not running gobbs of horse power anyhow.

I run 3/4 inch wheel spacers and a Cforce Dual friction. The CForce is in it's 3rd vehicle. If your geared for your tires, the stockish clutch works great. As far as the spacers, 3/4 works for me, make sure they're torqued correctly.

Do I need wheel spacers if I run IFS hub conv. with 37" and 3-4" offset and not hit the springs? I have some 2" spacers that came with my front axle that I bought. Is 2" too much to run? I will most likely run Marlins Ceramic Super heavyduty P/N MC-11001C What do you guys think good clutch? The price seems good, Since I paid $2300 for the one in my chevy duramax.

Marlin always has quality parts. You cant go wrong there.

Im thinking no spacers with IFS hub conversion.

Steering scrub is barely noticable with my 2" spacers. Maybe the TG rock assault set up is hiding it.

Thanks 507,


What kind of shocks would be good? I was thinking the Bilstein 5125 14"? Any thoughts anybody? I ask because I trading some parts right now wanna get the right stuff instead of just more junk in my way. Thanks

Hey Mt4runner- Do you have a measurement from the outside ofthe front cross to the crank pulley center bolt or the flat part of the pulley? Thanks for the good encouragment you guys. I think I spelled that right ;)

17.75" from the outside of the front xmember to the face of the crank (no pulley, no bolt). With the motor 8" back, ~5/8" down, dead flat belly (bottom of t-case is at bottom of framerails--MC07-R10 xmember).

From the bottom of the front xmember, the center of the crank is 6" up, as near as I can measure it.

Steering scrub is barely noticable with my 2" spacers. Maybe the TG rock assault set up is hiding it.

I think I'll be using the TG assist in my setup. No need for spacers with the 44's being 61 inches plate to plate. Due to the unsprung weight scrub would play a factor for me. The real problem comes in when you add wheel offset and spacers. Glad to hear this setup is working well.

Thanks MT4Runner, Your the man.

Thanks MT4Runner, Your the man.

Tell Mrs. MT4Runner that. She thinks the FToy project is silly! :laughing:

Yeah so does mine, sounds like your and mine would get along great. Good thing that Ms. SteelFuser has no ring on her finger so she can't say a damn thing about what I do with my money. All she says is " Stupid boys and there toys" & " Are you going to be playing with that thing all night?"
MT4Runner, Is the measurement from the back or the front of the front cross? Outside meaning the front/outside?



Tell Mrs. MT4Runner that. She thinks the FToy project is silly! :laughing:

Horizontal measurement is to the front of the front cross.
Vertical measurement is from the bottom of the front cross. 84 frame.

Note that the part about my flat belly is important--the crank will move up and down when the tcase moves up and down--the fulcrum (motor mounts) are 6" behind and 3-4" below the crank!!

All she says is " Stupid boys and there toys" & " Are you going to be playing with that thing all night?"






She is talking about the F-Toy right? :flipoff2:

If not you need to lay off it a little you will experience chaffing!

Thanks 507,


What kind of shocks would be good? I was thinking the Bilstein 5125 14"? Any thoughts anybody? I ask because I trading some parts right now wanna get the right stuff instead of just more junk in my way. Thanks


I have been very impressed with my bilstein. I got lucky and they came in the kit. i would buy them again.

She is talking about the F-Toy right? :flipoff2:

If not you need to lay off it a little you will experience chaffing!

Thanks for the Tip Brett, Hey I got The shipment of parts today. Thanks for getting them out so fast. Any news on when the all of the hardware will go out?

Got a shit load of parts today, Marlin Dual case adapter R10, Rear cross and shackle setup from That tool Box guy. Hopefully I can get most of them on tomorrow night.
Saturday I'm heading down to Santa Margarita to get the chassis and along the way pick up, Shocks, E-Locker's, Marlin 23 spline 4.7's, Crown SS Brake lines, Disk brake kit for the rear, a few Triple drilled flanges.

Tomorrow After work I'll be picking up my new Welder Miller 252. Oh Yeah
God damn this week has been a Money Week.

this is gonna be sick man!

Tomorrow After work I'll be picking up my new Welder Miller 252. Oh Yeah

OH YEAH!! Woo hoo!! :homer:

I have the 210 and love it--you're going to love that welding rig even more than the fToy. Too bad for Ms. SteelFuser!! :laughing:

this is gonna be sick man!

Thanks Punkrockcrawler, I'll be sending that 3rd out to you Thursday morning. I'll PM you the tracking # when I receive it. Thanks, Ryan

Got some of the new parts on today at least the rear cross tacked on. Also picked up my new welder.

What kind of shocks would be good? I was thinking the Bilstein 5125 14"? Any thoughts anybody? I ask because I trading some parts right now wanna get the right stuff instead of just more junk in my way. Thanks

I picked up both 14" 5125's and BBCS 15"s this summer. I'm planning to put the 5125s on the 4Runner and the BBCS on the FToy. I was told the BBCS were designed/valved for FToys/buggys?

MT4Runner, Where do you get the BBCS shocks from?

I think I found them, Did you get them from Poly Performance There web page says $100.

Woohoo Gonna go get the Chassis Tomorrow and I got 2 ELockers on there way
Found out that my rear end did end up being bent from the wreck that my donor was in, so I'll be picking up a V6 complete Rear on my way down to Hendrix. hopefuly there will be good weather tomorrow. Just Curious whats the average age of the FToy competitors?

I think I found them, Did you get them from Poly Performance There web page says $100.

Yep. That's listed retail.

They will give you a better price if you shop in the PBB Vendor's forum. Search there for one of PIG's posts, and post up.

If I remember correctly, it was ~$300-350 plus shipping? :grinpimp:

I'm running dual elockers, too. Get a panel/wiring from 12voltguy!!

I'm 33. 34 in Feb. Not specifically a "competitor"...I'm a long way from most of the West Coast comps (OK, Pook is farther), but I'm building a comp-legal rig, and plan to hit 1-2/year.

I think I am going to run the E-lockers off of a cable and get rid of the wiring all together.

I had a brain fart last weekend and wondered to myself if they could be set up with some small air cylinders! :idea:

buckle up, :)
shawn

You know I'm sure that they could be, The whole reason for me to run elocker mod. to run cable is to get away from wiring/air. I don't like ARB's cause air is a pain in the ass. Elocker is better but with the motor's and all of the bullshit wiring. I decided just to go with a cable kit. I bet you could do it with air cyl. if you used the downey cable kit but just use the cyl. instead of the cable, I'm sure it would work. If you figure out what length of stroke you would need I can get you a cyl. and silenoid at cost.

Well on my way home after a long ass day driving and working only 5 more hours till I get home. Thanks Mike.

17 Hrs, 876 miles, 40 gals of diesel, $60 dollars in Red Bulls later FToy #116 Has found it's way home, all I can say it's about damn time and I'm going to bed.

That's a good feeling having the chassis sitting on the frame!! I was there exactly a year ago! Did you unload it by yourself?? :eek: :mr-t:

Is the motor gonna stay at that angle? Mine actually leans forward a few * so the flat belly could be maintained.

Let me know if you need any parts,

Fernando

Is the motor gonna stay at that angle? Mine actually leans forward a few * so the flat belly could be maintained.

No, It's just sitting there with nothing supporting it in the rear, I'm going to have to move it forward 2", as it sits now it's too far back. I gotta put the trans and T cases in so I figure all of the placement of everything drive train related

MT4Runner- No, a friend and myself did. It's heavier than I thought. We didn't load it. Mike used his overhead hoist to load it.

Let me know if you need any parts,

Fernando

Hows the Runner swap going Fernando? Sorry I missed your call I took my pup up to Jonesville to play in the snow and took a nap when I got home. I'll call yo tomorrow.

Inboards tacked on and springs just sitting in there, oh yeah the whole thing is hanging from the rafters. :D

:NOTE: Everything on this build is just going to be tacked on and moved or
changed around a little till it's just right.

:NOTE: Everything on this build is just going to be tacked on and moved or changed around a little till it's just right.

Good plan. Mine was tacked for a year, and I just started burning in welds last month. I figured once my body panels were cut, and the firewall tacked in, it wasn't likely the chassis was going to move around significantly from there... :laughing:

:NOTE: Everything on this build is just going to be tacked on and moved or
changed around a little till it's just right.

I have started to do this all the time now.. I was grinding out to many full welds:shaking: ..

Well I finally got off my ass and out in the shop today. First I changed a few things and thought I would try this chassis location. Although it may hinder approach angle and ground clearance. I could even put a big ass sprint car wing on the back. It was just a thought. :D

Anyways on a serious note, today moved engine forward 2" so now I'm right at 8" back. Threw the rear axle in so it could be a roller since I do have to move soon and this bitch has to get on a trailer. I can't remember does the EFI intake stick higher than the oil fill cap? I would like to try and keep the hood flat. Anyone chop up and change the intake to make it lower? Oh And I threw out the idea of a low front end.

I don't have a measurement for you, but the EFI intake is a bit taller than the oil cap. Maybe an inch or so? I don't think it's more than 2-inches.

damn I was affraid of that. I wonder if I can cut a couple of inches out of it or maybe just mount it backwards. I'll have to mount it and try it tomorrow.

The bottom of my chassis side tubes are at the top of my framerails; I think you'd have to be 1.5"-2" above the tubes to get the hood bar above the EFI plenum.

The Marlin Crawler FToy is one of the only ones I know of with a flat hood, and the chassis seems to sit quite high above the frame.

The bottom of my chassis side tubes are at the top of my framerails; I think you'd have to be 1.5"-2" above the tubes to get the hood bar above the EFI plenum.

The Marlin Crawler FToy is one of the only ones I know of with a flat hood, and the chassis seems to sit quite high above the frame.











Yeah, you're right. Ryan, as we dicussed, your chassis will be about 2 inches above the frame rail. It should be no problem getting a flat hood.

Well got the dual case adapter on there but I ended up with a bunch of extra parts and I don't know why. oh well we'll see if it works. Put the trans and cases on the car and I think I have to raise it up a bit to achieve the flat belly.

Engine's off to be freshened up. :D That's Hank my Right hand man or dog. He's good for eating and shitting not much help with a wrench tho.

What does "freshened up" entail?

Build is looking good.

What does "freshened up" entail?

Build is looking good.

At the moment nothing, kinda on the fence on what to do with it. I'll most likely just put a cam and replace a few seals and a good header.I'm not sure a 160HP DOA racing engine costs $3500 and right now with this economy I holding onto my penny's and still trying to finish this built the way I want to. Really I don't need a high dollar race engine but it would be cool, wrooooom wrooomm. I really want a Turbo, but it's not in the rules. :D

I thought I read some where that somebody was making a header for the FToy's cause there is clearance issue's. Is this true?

I thought I read some where that somebody was making a header for the FToy's cause there is clearance issue's. Is this true?

LC makes an F-Toy header

Should I run a two peice in the front or a one peice? I had planned on using a two peice but I measured tonight and if I run a one peice I can have both front and rear close to the same in lenght within a couple inches. Hence I would only need one spare. how often do the two peices let go? i also ask cause it's going to effect how I make the floor board with or with the mount for the pillow block. Any idea's?

Is that an "L" trans? (looks like it) When I was researching it seemed like most of the L trans guys had a one piece front shaft, while the W trans guys had a two piece.

At the moment nothing, kinda on the fence on what to do with it. I'll most likely just put a cam and replace a few seals and a good header.I'm not sure a 160HP DOA racing engine costs $3500 and right now with this economy I holding onto my penny's and still trying to finish this built the way I want to. Really I don't need a high dollar race engine but it would be cool, wrooooom wrooomm. I really want a Turbo, but it's not in the rules. :D

Davez' performance motors are bored 0.060 over, balanced everything for $2,500. :D

Wish I had that much left in my budget right now!!

Earl, It's a L52. I have another L52 that I'm going to send to Marlin to be reborn into a L52HD. I could do a single or two peice. With the two peice I could have a flat belly to about a few inches before the front shackle. Or I could have y drivelines be the same and have one spare. I dunno Dammit somebody give me some info cause I need to finish my floorboards tomorrow and if i'm not going to run a two peice then I'm not going to build a mount for it.

I have an L52 and was going to do one piece. I'm 98% sure that every F-Toy I "inspected" with an L had a one piece shaft. The front drive lines pretty much follow the same angle as the leaf springs so I don't think it effects the clearance much.

Earl, It's a L52. I have another L52 that I'm going to send to Marlin to be reborn into a L52HD. I could do a single or two peice. With the two peice I could have a flat belly to about a few inches before the front shackle. Or I could have y drivelines be the same and have one spare. I dunno Dammit somebody give me some info cause I need to finish my floorboards tomorrow and if i'm not going to run a two peice then I'm not going to build a mount for it.


With the front flange of the intermediate shaft a few inches in front of the front shackle, it seems like your front shaft would be awfully steep??!

I'm going W56, 2-piece front shaft, and trying to get equal-length drivelines ~29", IIRC? My front flange will be about 6" behind the frame shackle tubes....

I like the 2 piece shaft. My angle was real bad before I went hi pinion. My front d shaft is the same length as the rear. But, with TG creeper joints and a good spotter I have not broken a shaft.
The toyota carrier bearing will not work. You will need to get a pillow block or bearing froma mid 90s ranger. The ranger uses 2 different sizes. so measure before you order. Sorry, I only remember (oreilly) Anchor part # 6061 is not right.

Pillow block i was going to get from hendrex, but today I think I'm going with a one peice so f/r will close to the same length.

two piece or one piece. Its probably not a big difference. Good spotting and knowing where the shaft is and you will be fine 95% of the time. The other 5% sh_t happens, I dont care if it is one or two piece.

I'm running the w56 with 2 piece front. I thnk I made the intermediate shaft a little long, because the angle is pretty steep. I am going to have to clearance the insides of the yokes. They are hitting at full droop. I think the angle would be much better with the 1-piece. Besides, on all my other trail rigs, the rear is the one I break/bend.

I like the 2 piece shaft. My angle was real bad before I went hi pinion. My front d shaft is the same length as the rear. But, with TG creeper joints and a good spotter I have not broken a shaft.
The toyota carrier bearing will not work. You will need to get a pillow block or bearing froma mid 90s ranger. The ranger uses 2 different sizes. so measure before you order. Sorry, I only remember (oreilly) Anchor part # 6061 is not right.

Pillow block i was going to get from hendrex, but today I think I'm going with a one peice so f/r will close to the same length.

Yeah, get the Hendrix pillowblock if you go that route.

I did an off-the-shelf pillow block from the local machine shop, and block plus machining of the flange end was $140. :eek: (figured off the shelf local would be more convenient if I ever needed to replace it...next time, I'd get the one from Hendrix).

ftoy507, did the Ranger unit slip right on??

Well worked on the sub floor today, went with the one peice. Just for the fact I cant have one spare d-shaft. hell with the cost saving of a one peice( inter. shaft, pillow block, bearing) it will almost cover the cost of a spare shaft. I'll throw up some pics of the floor tomorrow night.

Well worked on the sub floor today, went with the one peice. Just for the fact I cant have one spare d-shaft. hell with the cost saving of a one peice( inter. shaft, pillow block, bearing) it will almost cover the cost of a spare shaft. I'll throw up some pics of the floor tomorrow night.

With that short trans you'll be fine with the 1 piece.

Yes, the ranger unit slipped right on.
I got on a beaing MFR web site and compared the ID of the Toyota bearing to others until I found one that worked. mtbrjon pointed me in the right direction.

Yes, the ranger unit slipped right on.
I got on a beaing MFR web site and compared the ID of the Toyota bearing to others until I found one that worked. mtbrjon pointed me in the right direction.

The OD of the bearing surface on the intermediate shaft is ~1.437"

WTF............................


Who the hell is this guy called Sponsored Link thats HiJacking my build thread.
Never thought that I would see the day the Pirate would sell out.
oh well things change and so do people. Always got to make more money.
When does anybody think they will sell this site?
It has been happening a lot to very good Forums and it just ruins them with all the adds everywhere. My .02's worth

/\
l
l
Bastard got me again:evil:

If you have a red star you don't see them :D

Thats whats going on, My red star has expirered. That why my pm box isfull also. How does one re up the red star? It's been so long I forgot.

Thats whats going on, My red star has expirered. That why my pm box isfull also. How does one re up the red star? It's been so long I forgot.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/payments.php

Sweet thanks kannon, I looked for that everywhere and could not find it, Well I appologise to Lance for cussing him (in my head) thinking he sold us out. I have just had this happen where ppl open a forum and the menbers that really make the site. That post all of the info to make it what it is, sell us out to some mother fuckin bigger site and there are adds ever where. Atleast they have adds and it's in a classy way. Yes I am talking about Pirate and classy in the same sentence. haha

?? What happened on this build??

Not much in the last few months. Bunch of things came up that I had to deal with. Which in turn left me no time for the Ftoy. But should be getting some parts in and making some more progress in the coming weeks.

........get yo shit together....its almost comp time!!!

Well boys I'm back at it. Been about a year since I have touched this thing. You know how it go's. Life, work, ol'e lady. There just always seems to be something. So here we go back on track. Started cleaning up the shop getting my Chassis mounts From ToolboxGuy setup. Hopefully in a week or so I'll get my updated T-Case mount/crossmember in and mocked up so I can readjust motor mounts. Need to redo trans tunnel. It look ugly and I want to make it removable from the interior. I'll get some pics up later tonight.

Just to prove that i am actually moving forward with this build here's some pics.

First few are how it sits right now. One of my ugly trans tunnel frame(POS).

The pic of the front chassis hanger, anybody think it's to close to the front shackle? I want to move it forward about an 1" or so. What do you think?

checking for head room clearance. It's gonna be close, might need to raise chassis and lower seat. I need another few inches of head room. I only have 2" with a helmet on.

Your front shackle is still quite a bit vertical, but you still probably have another 3-400 lbs. to add in sheet metal, tubing, winch, fluids, etc. Set a bunch of weight on the chassis right over the motor and see what it does with your shackle angle.

checking for head room clearance. It's gonna be close, might need to raise chassis and lower seat. I need another few inches of head room. I only have 2" with a helmet on.

Consider notching your floor rather than raising the chassis...you can easily drop it 2-2.5". If you lean your seat back (lift the front edge), you gain another inch of head room.

MT4Runner, I think notching frame and tilting seat is what I going to lean towards. If I loose the slider on the seat I can gain a little bit also. Those Springs are also brand new should settle a bit.