MY F%$#^N HUB BOLTS WILL NOT STAY TIGHT..........IVE TRIED LOC TIGHT AND STILL DOESNT HOLD.......

IF I USE SAFTY WIRE LIKE THE RACECAR ISH.......WILL THAT HOLD THEM TIGHT?

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK...

It's worth a try. Use .032 stainless safety wire. You can do the single strand method or the double strand. Double strand is much more recommended, stronger. You should get a pair of safety wire pliers since it makes the job easier. A jig for drilling the bolt heads is nice also...
We safety wire bolts all the time at work, its a must for jet engines. You don't want bolts to work loose on those, can be a disaster. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">

If you're good with safety wiring I don't see why it wouldn't hold them. I haven't used the stuff since the military and remember sometimes it could be a PITA getting it good and tight.

The only difficulty I see is drilling the heads for the wire. It might weaken the bolts.

IM USING ALLEN HEAD BOLTS ....SO I THINK THERE SHOULD BE PLENTY OF ROOM FOR A HOLE......

is safety wire=cotter pins???

like on the tie rod ends? I haven't heard this term before.

SeanP

Nope. You drill holes through the bolt heads and run wire between them so you can't rotate a single head without cutting the wire...

ASCII art time:

------*
-----/ \
----*---*
-----\-/
------*

Ignore the - they're for spacing the pic out
the * are bolt heads
The \ and / are the wires running through and between the bolts.

make sense?

You need to arrange the wire in a manner so if loosend it would Tighten the wire,so that determines which direction you wrap around the head.

You can use any pliers,I use Dykes,just hold it soft.

Like this

<IMG width=600 height=430 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/wire3.jpg">

what about studs with nuts and lock washers??? would more then likely hold tight and is the strongest setup

I DO HAVE LOCK WASHERS ON THERE TOO..........DONT HELP.......ACUALLY THE ALLEN HEAD BOLTS ARE STRONGER THAN A REGULAR STUD.......THERE IS A BIG FASENER ARTICLE IN THE NOV ISSUE OF CAR CRAFT.......ITS PRETTY COOL......I GUESS IF YOU GET LIKE ARP OR OTHER THAN COMMERCIAL HARDWARE......EVEN THEN I DONT SHEER THEM OFF THOSE DAMN THINGS JUST COME LOOSE........

Thanks Mo for the explanation.

I had this aggravating problem on the 44 on my Scout, especially once it was locked and on 36's. Easy fix...studs did the job. I tried every bolt and washer combo, but nothing worked. Once I studded it no more problems. Just make sure you clean and dry the shit out of the threads (Honey, have you seen my blowdrier?) and red locktite those beotches and jam nut them in to torque, let them cure for a day and your done. I used Grade 8 nylocks for grins and the never came loose again.

My Warn hubs used to come loose all the time on my Cruiser. I had to tighten them twice a day when I would go wheeling. I would suggest studs instead of cap screws.

Or, you could switch to Aisin hubs and use the cone washers.

I must tighten mine every trip. A friend forgot and they came loose, lost a few bolts, then sheared off the remaining ones. Warn hubs used to come with a tab washer that locked them in. I have not seen any new Warn hubs, dont know if they use them anymore. Safety wire is cool, but not easy. The wire must be run correctly, twisted, and tied off. Not a five minute job.

I have my hub bolts saftey wired and they have never even loosed from what I tightened them to before the wired was tied. That is the way to go. My dad is an ex-SCCA driver, so when we rebuilt my front axle he suggested saftey-wiring the hub bolts. Works great. I would recommend saftey-wiring the bolts to anyone.