what would be the best combo for a compete rig with 37s

dynatrac pro rock
curries rock jock
or Spidertrax fabricated 9" hsg with truhi9s

what kind of rig? those choices are alot of coin for 37s

dude if you are just running 37s...you only need built D44s...basically...44s with chromo shafts

if you are going to run any of the axles you just listed you need to be running at least 40s if not 42s....and if you were really interested in buying a an axle of that caliber i would tell you to buy SOLID axles....

If you wanted a strong axle set up to run over a 40" tire on the cheap i would go with fullwidth 1ton axles and just build them over time...they would hold up and be reliable


hope that helps

thanks for the replys guys!

well as i said above it is for a compete rig that have busted a lot of 30spline axle shafts, yokes, splines, pinions etc...
i am going to put 5" stretch clayton long arm suspension with one of the above choise of axles assembles.
the reasons i want to go that high for the axles are two.
1) i DONT WANT TO BUST ANY THINK THAT INVOLVED IN AXLES.
2) why not built it ones and if i want to go higher just put some 39 or 40s for fun.

For 37s any of the axles you listed will be just fine. Take your pick but like already said none of them are going to be cheap to buy. If you truly have the coin for it Id go with the Spidertrax axles and the TruHi9s great clearance and strong as fuck.

You can have some one tons build for you and not be as expensive.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Axles/D44_05.html

The 14 bolt will be big for the 37s but if you went taller it will even out and for the price they have it listed and just about ready for bolt in which is what I am assuming you want isnt bad. If you do the work youself you can build a 14 bolt much cheaper. I understand what you want but will you budget be able to handle the built blingn axles?

is it true that spider 9s have ground clearence as a d44 and they weight less than a d44?

maybe you know the differences on weight for the other two listed?

thanks in advance:)

is it true that spider 9s have ground clearence as a d44 and they weight less than a d44?

maybe you know the differences on weight for the other two listed?

thanks in advance:)

I dont know the direct weight difference between the 44 and the 9s but reagardless of that the strength gained with the 9 over the 44 is so much greater even if say the 9 was heavier and not as much clearance its kinda a moot point.
Read this.
http://www.sunrayengineering.com/
Now read this it will give you an idea of the clearance difference between the 9 and the 44.
http://www.sunrayengineering.com/compare.html

Ive broken D44 parts with 37s and 106:1 gearing before. At that point you have to wheel carefully again as opposed to a Dana 60 or a built 9" that you can punish brainlessly.

Again like most other threads my reply is you need to ask yourself seriously.....do you ever think there is a chance that you would like to go bigger? If theres even the smallest chance, build some 60s, if not then be happy and run the 9"

dude if you are just running 37s...you only need built D44s...basically...44s with chromo shafts

if you are going to run any of the axles you just listed you need to be running at least 40s if not 42s....and if you were really interested in buying a an axle of that caliber i would tell you to buy SOLID axles....

If you wanted a strong axle set up to run over a 40" tire on the cheap i would go with fullwidth 1ton axles and just build them over time...they would hold up and be reliable


hope that helps

you need a stronger axle than a built 44 to run 37's in compition, how many pro-mod rigs do you see running d44's? I know stock mod guys breaking d44's with superior cromos and CTM joints running on 35'' tires.

For a couple of years I ran a built 44 with the best chromos and joints available with 37 trepadors and broke regularly. I got tired of the breakage and run a Dynatrac Prorock 60 now and never worry about breakage. I compete frequently and there are few things more irritating than having to put your front end back together between runs. I went with the Prorock in the front because I have had one in the rear for years and the only thing I have to do on it is change gearlube. They build great axles, and the clearance is actually better than a 44. Just my .02.

is it true that spider 9s have ground clearence as a d44 and they weight less than a d44?

maybe you know the differences on weight for the other two listed?

thanks in advance:)

A shaved 9" has 3/4" more clearance than a d35...

i am running a 14bolt/60 setup that i bought built with chromos and detroits for $3500

personally i would run SOLIDS over dynatracs....they arent quite as pricey and just as strong...we got a set in at the shop and they are wicked...on a jeep and SOLID 60s you could prolly run 46+ tires all day long no problem...

i just dont see the need for $13,000-$22,000 axle setups with what you said your needs were....IMO

I would go with a set of full widths and roll....

but if you have the money at no issue...who doesnt want pimp axles

i am running a 14bolt/60 setup that i bought built with chromos and detroits for $3500

personally i would run SOLIDS over dynatracs....they arent quite as pricey and just as strong...we got a set in at the shop and they are wicked...on a jeep and SOLID 60s you could prolly run 46+ tires all day long no problem...

i just dont see the need for $13,000-$22,000 axle setups with what you said your needs were....IMO

I would go with a set of full widths and roll....

but if you have the money at no issue...who doesnt want pimp axles

What? looks to me like they are the same price, and no wheres near the prices you are talking.

http://www.tellico4x4.com/index.php/cPath/3288_2880_76_3587
http://solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=18

OP if you haven't already I would probably search more in the hardcore forum. You are getting watered down info here at best. When I first read your post I quickly took compete for complete and offered the wrong opinion. If you are running comps you want D60s, forget the 9", forget the Dana 44s, they won't hold up. Dynatrac has always made the best axles and have a great reputation in my opinion although I would run Solid in a heartbeat as well

dynatrac pro rock

those and some stickey 37's and you can run pretty much anything

I run 35's on my built 44's and i wouldnt want to run much more, even with alloys and ctm joints,

I run 35's on my built 44's and i wouldnt want to run much more, even with alloys and ctm joints

thats my actual set up and my opinion on how much more i want to run with those 44s:)

thanks guys i am ready to go for the big coin!

thats my actual set up and my opinion on how much more i want to run with those 44s:)

thanks guys i am ready to go for the big coin!

dont get me wrong itll work, i have a friend who runs similar axles to me on 37" bfg stickeys, but he does break 1 -2 front shafts a year, but were running some pretty hard stuff

yep. i know what you talking about. definatly it'll work for the most of the guys who runs chromoly plus ctms.
but for some others the think is that they have to reduse the possibilitys of bombjac axles as far as possible:D....if you follow me!

does anyone of you with dynatracs run the upgrade dynaloc hiclearence hub option?
http://www.dynatrac.com/products_stubhub.html

We run the Diamond Axle housing with Reid Racing outer knuckles and depending on the vehilce, run an 8.8" Currie hi pinion in front and Currie 9" low pinion in the rear (in our King of the Hammers race Jeep TJ), OR, in our Pro Modified, run True Hi 9's front and rear. CTM axles as well as U-Joints. For driveshafts, to keep them from being the weak link, we run competition 1350 driveshafts from JE Reel ( www.reeldriveline.com ) Now, we no longer sweat broken stuff...what a gret feeling to go out and do the hardest stuff around and NOT worry about broken axles and driveshafts! :dustin:

does anyone of you with dynatracs run the upgrade dynaloc hiclearence hub option?
http://www.dynatrac.com/products_stubhub.html

I do run the Dynalocks and the stubhubs. No problems at all, very simple, and apparently very sturdy. I now run 40" Trepadors and pound the heck out of the thing with no breakage.

I know this thread is referring to running 37s in a comp but I'm wanting to do stock mod on 35s. I currently have an XJ D44 rear that needs to be built but I'm looking at an 8.8 instead. For the front I was thinking a Waggy 44 for cost, but it is low pinion. Cutting down a Ford HP D44 would just cost me too much. So, Waggy 44 with XJ D44 or Waggy 44 and Ford 8.8? Bolt patterns will be converted to 5x5.5 for both.

Thanks,

-Joe

Why not just get a Waggy 44 rear also and save some money buy not changing lug patterns.

Why not just get a Waggy 44 rear also and save some money buy not changing lug patterns.

Because I already have some 5x5.5 wheels that I got from a friend for cheap. Converting them to 5x5.5 will cost less than buying new 6x5.5 wheels.

-Joe

Well a 8.8 and a XJ 44 are not 5 on 5.5 they are 5 on 4.5. I dont think you can convert front and rear cheaper than a set of wheels.

Either axle I choose will be getting new chromo shafts. Most chromos are dual drilled to 5x4.5 and 5x5.5 so the cost to change bolt patterns is just redrilling the drums or rotors. The front is just new spindles and hubs that I can pick up for ~$60 at the local salvage yard. So yes, it is cheaper to change the bolt pattern. Back to the original question.

-Joe

Then I would look at what gears you want to run. You can find a 8.8 with 4.10 and LSD but its still a c clip axle. It is a strong axle though I prefer the Dana 44. The 8.8 will also have rear disc brakes if you get the right one.