Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?

Take your pick. There are guys running the stock 4L60e, 350 or 400, and the 700r4. There are even guys running a nv4500, nv3550, and granny gear 4 spds. Its pretty much dependent upon what you want to do.

my question is.. I have a donor 2001 Silverado that I am going to use the 5.3 out of. Just wondering if the 4l60e and stock case (not even sure what that one is) would hold up. If so I would like to use that bc I have a DSD J10 axle

Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?

97 TJ: 2001 Vortec 5.3, 2001 4L60e trans, Atlas II 5.0

Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?

1981 CJ-7, 5.3L - th400 - dana 300

would the stock tcase hold for a while (maybe a year.. tops) until I threw in an atlas?

1997 TJ - 5.3l, TH350, Atlas 4.3.

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/gallery/d/2780-2/SANY0003.JPG


You could use the 4L60E if you need OD, or a 700R4. Both are expensive to build, but the 4L60E needs computer control, which can add that much more complication. 700R4 will be easier, TH350 or 400 is easiest & cheaper.

5.3, NV4500 and Atlas 5.0.

would the stock tcase hold for a while (maybe a year.. tops) until I threw in an atlas?

it really depends on what your doing and what the rest of the driveline is, but ive seen some chevy trucks get badly abused and stay together, so i dont know why you would have a problem with it for a little while, i would run it, whats the worst that could happen? you break it and then you just order your atlas.

97 TJ - 5.3, 4L60E, and no tcase yet.

it really depends on what your doing and what the rest of the driveline is, but ive seen some chevy trucks get badly abused and stay together, so i dont know why you would have a problem with it for a little while, i would run it, whats the worst that could happen? you break it and then you just order your atlas.

i agree 100%

I'm running the 5.3 with 4l60 and stock pushbutton 4x4 transfercase out of a 2002 avalanche it works fine but i wouldn't put it in to much of a bind or it lets the chain slip. I think im going to change to the np 241 or 231 with sye just to get by until i can get a good case. Also wanted to say im running dana 60's and 41 inch swampers . I havn't broke the stock case in a year of abuse.

One question for the guys with the 4l60 and the atlas. Are you running the speed sensor after all your gear reduction or in 4 lo does it think its going 100 miles per hour at 35 ?

90 yj, 5.3, built 4l60, stak 3 speed, 60, 14, 42's

CJ - 5.3/4L60E/Dana 300

The VSS is located on the adapter, prior to the t-case. Low range throws the speedo off by the same factor as my gear reduction.

03' TJ - In the process of installing a 2005 5.3L (LS6 intake, 220 cam) , 4L65e tranny, and NP231 w/ 32 spline output. Also running D60, 14 bolt, 5:38's, and 42's.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/jeeperjosh/Project%20Patriot%20III%20-%20V8/Picture003.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/jeeperjosh/Project%20Patriot%20III%20-%20V8/Picture006.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e195/jeeperjosh/Project%20Patriot%20III%20-%20V8/Picture007.jpg

03' TJ - In the process of installing a 2005 5.3L (LS6 intake, 220 cam) , 4L65e tranny, and NP231 w/ 32 spline output. Also running D60, 14 bolt, and 42's.

What kind of HP & torque numbers are you expecting with the LS6 intake & cam? I could always use more power out of my 5.3... :eek:

how many of you are running a stock TJ pump?
If not what pump are you running?
Also what axle gears are you running?

I have a 5.3 39.5's and 4.10's and it seems to have no sack, about to pull the trigger on 5.13's. Figured i'd ask

What wiring harnesses are you guys running? I putting a 5.3 with a 4L60E and dana 300 in a 1947 Willys with 35's and 4.56 gears.

ls1andvortec makes harnesses and know his stuff. I got my engine and harness from him and he is good tech support in SoCal.

5.3,nv4500,231

how many of you are running a stock TJ pump?
If not what pump are you running?
Also what axle gears are you running?

I have a 5.3 39.5's and 4.10's and it seems to have no sack, about to pull the trigger on 5.13's. Figured i'd ask

I'm running the factory yj 2.5 liter fuel pump seems to work fine . I also went with 5.38 gears and 41's it has plenty of power . I can't fully test it yet since ive got xj springs on the rear . I get serious axle wrap when i hammer it. Getting 4 linked as we speak.

how many of you are running a stock TJ pump?
If not what pump are you running?
Also what axle gears are you running?

I have a 5.3 39.5's and 4.10's and it seems to have no sack, about to pull the trigger on 5.13's. Figured i'd ask

I understood the stock TJ pump doesn't put out enough PSI. The LSX engines need a minimum of 55 PSI and if I recall, the TJ pumps put out right about 50 PSI. I'm running the E2000 pump. I know there's a debate about the E2000 begin sufficient for an LSX series motor, it's been enough for my TJ so far.

I'm running 5.13's with 40's and it's perfect, it's fast enough on the street and works well offroad. I think you're gearing is too far off with 4.10's and 39.5's.

What wiring harnesses are you guys running? I putting a 5.3 with a 4L60E and dana 300 in a 1947 Willys with 35's and 4.56 gears.


I modified a factory harness. It only required about 4hrs of work, a small fuse block and a few relays.

97 TJ 5.3(duh) 4l60e atlas 4.3 60s front and rear 5.13 w/ 39" krawlers

1980 CJ7 , 5.3 - Th350 - Dana300

1992 YJ 2002 5.3L vortec - 4L60e - Stak4speed transfer case.
i got my harness done through http://www.lt1swap.com/
real quick turn around and cheap. well done also. haven't got to my fuel stuff yet.

5.3L dodge nv4500 dana 300

Jeeperjosh. what radiator is that?

I built a truck for a kid here with a 5.3,Advance adapters clutch kit,sm465, and np205.I used a painless harness, and had the computer reflashed by fastchips.They claim 375 rear wheel horsepower and it feels like it the truck rips.Oh, it is all in a 72 chevy 4x4 fleetside,painted hugger orange.:smokin:

I can't offer much yet b/c I'm right in the middle of this swap as we speak. I have a 5.3 Vortec LM7 from a 2002 Avalanche, a 4L60E from a 2002 Suburban, and decided to go w/ a NP241C from a 95 Tahoe along w/ a JB Conversions super short SYE kit. It's going to be stuffed into a 95 YJ that came stock w/ the 2.5 Liter piece of crap engine and AX5 manual tranny--probably in about 2 weeks.

I am in the process of building a 5.3 for the CJ8. Its a 2003 with full floating rods and the newer pistons (anodized top ring land, nitrided top ring, and floating pin). Its going to be running a LS6 Zo6 cam with milled 5.3l heads. The trans is a built th-350 with the trans go manual kit. More to come as it is installed and tuned.

Where is everyone going for harnesses? I am thinking of just calling painless and dumping the 700 bones.

Jim's Performance for harness and ECM mods.

Jeeperjosh. what radiator is that?

Had it custom built through Howe Racing.

We just gutted a tj at the shop and its ready for a 5.3 nv4500 and a built 231. The customer wants headers and i recommended stainless. Does anyone know who offers stainless headers that will fit?

anyone ran the stock 5speed with the 5.3 for mild duty and day to day driving?

5.3 Vortec, SM465 and Atlas 3.8, but won't be finished until late Jan. Talked to Advanced Adapters and few people who have done it and my understanding is that the possibilities are limitless, just depends on what you are going to do and what you expect out of it, but most of all, what you like...auto or man. I mean.

anyone ran the stock 5speed with the 5.3 for mild duty and day to day driving?

It was my understanding when I went shopping that they never offered the 5.3 with a manual tranny. If they did, what would it have been in?

We just gutted a tj at the shop and its ready for a 5.3 nv4500 and a built 231. The customer wants headers and i recommended stainless. Does anyone know who offers stainless headers that will fit?
I actually picked up a set of Mac mid-length headers for 98-02 LS1 F-bodies and they fit my Scrambler damn near perfect. I like em better than any other non-custom ones I've seen for Jeeps and they'll make more power than shorties. I got them for $125 shipped and I see them for sale on ls1tech.com pretty often for under $200. Not sure if they're offered in stainless but I think ceramic coating is a better option regardless.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2008_10046LiterDoublerInstall0014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2008_10046LiterDoublerInstall0021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2008_10046LiterDoublerInstall0017.jpg

Oh, and I was gonna put a 5.3 in my Scrambler but now I'm going with a mildly build LQ4 6.0. Same size and all the important stuff for a swap is the same. For a harness I might just do it myself, but I've heard good things about Speartech standalone harnesses for about $500. I've got several buddies who've gotten LSX tunes from Nelson Performance with great results, and once you buy the initial tune they'll re-tune it for free I think.

I'll be running a built 700R4 behind it with a 231-300 doubler. An adapter to the 300 was the same price as the doubler so it was a no brainer. All you have to do is swap a 27 spline input shaft from a 231, 241, or I think 208 into whatever 231 case you have and no adapter is required besides the stock one. I'm using the whole 241 6-pinion planetary in my 231 case. I won't be surprised if I break the t-case(s) with 425+hp but I couldn't swing the extra $2k for an Atlas at this point. Once the initial sticker shock for the full build is over I'll probably upgrade it.

http://www.fuelinjection.com/

For your computer and fuel pump.

I've had mine in for a few years now. plenty of power and easy to maintain.

Switched to Royal Purple since it can sit for months at a time and I only need to change the oil once a year.

See sig for drivtrain setup.

It was my understanding when I went shopping that they never offered the 5.3 with a manual tranny. If they did, what would it have been in?

my Bad Todd,, left out stock TJ 5speed to 5.3

1953 CJ3a buggy with 5.3, 70r4 and Atlas II 3.8. Love it.

why did you guys decide on 5.3 instead of a 6.0? Just considering options for myself.

why did you guys decide on 5.3 instead of a 6.0? Just considering options for myself.

Easier to find.

my Bad Todd,, left out stock TJ 5speed to 5.3

i'm also wonering about this combo. i've read the 3550 is rated to handle 300 ft/lbs and some say that is underated. I enjoy driving the manual and would like to stick with it.

yes, i ran a stock 3550 with a ls 2. put a 4ls0e in. i have a bell housing and clutch flywheel if anybody wants them. mase

I am having clearance issues with the front driveshaft with the engine swap that i am doing in my 82 cj8. the front driveshaft hits the trans pan. any help, pics or anything would be agreat help. :( any good shops in the Boulder, co area would be helpful, also.

why did you guys decide on 5.3 instead of a 6.0? Just considering options for myself.
Availability and money are the 2 biggest reasons. I originally got a high mileage 5.3 for dirt cheap from a buddy and was gonna build it into a high compression 5.7, but by the time I did all the machine work and got all the accessories and sh1t taken care of it made more sense to just go with a 6.0.....so that's what I did. Stock 5.3s complete with harness, computer, and all accessories can easily be had for under $1k depending on location. I paid $1400 for my 6.0.

I am having clearance issues with the front driveshaft with the engine swap that i am doing in my 82 cj8. the front driveshaft hits the trans pan. any help, pics or anything would be agreat help. :( any good shops in the Boulder, co area would be helpful, also.
Common problem. Even with a small OD driveshaft it's very tight but doable. I switched to drivers drop partly for that reason since the trans pan is offset way to the passenger side. You could do a 2 piece driveshaft with a pillow block to offset it to clear the trans, or just go small OD 1 piece like lots of people do.

I did the 6.0L. From a swap perspective there is no real difference, so it's whatever you can get most easily/cheaply.

Good luck.

I'm working on a 6.0/NV4500/241 in my '87 YJ.

Jake

Only way I could do my front passenger drop driveline was a 2 piece set up with a carrier.

do you have pics of this??? I had a 4x4 shop swap a 5.3, 700r4 and dana 300 in my 83 cj...they said the front drive shaft will be a 2 piece with carrier bearing. No big deal i guess, i just wanted to see how other were building these shafts.

Also does anyone have pics of there oil pans for the 5.3's I feel like the truck pan hangs down really low, and i dont like it at all. I dont know if its because of the way this shop mounted the motor or what, but its to low for my comfort. I was thinking of swapping out oil pans, but i dont know if anyone has done that before or not.

do you have pics of this??? I had a 4x4 shop swap a 5.3, 700r4 and dana 300 in my 83 cj...they said the front drive shaft will be a 2 piece with carrier bearing. No big deal i guess, i just wanted to see how other were building these shafts.

Also does anyone have pics of there oil pans for the 5.3's I feel like the truck pan hangs down really low, and i dont like it at all. I dont know if its because of the way this shop mounted the motor or what, but its to low for my comfort. I was thinking of swapping out oil pans, but i dont know if anyone has done that before or not.

I am currently in the middle of the swap into a TJ.

For better clearance I changed to a LS1 oil pan and pickup tube off a 98-02 Camaro. I got mine off CL, but think their are aftermarket companies that offer them.

What headers does everyone run between the TJ frame rails? I was thinking about using Edelbrock Shorty Headers with Ti-Tech Coating. They are $291 from Summit Racing. Deal or No Deal?

i used advanced adapter headers with cermaic coating...they were only 225 bucks

I am currently in the middle of the swap into a TJ.

For better clearance I changed to a LS1 oil pan and pickup tube off a 98-02 Camaro. I got mine off CL, but think their are aftermarket companies that offer them.

What headers does everyone run between the TJ frame rails? I was thinking about using Edelbrock Shorty Headers with Ti-Tech Coating. They are $291 from Summit Racing. Deal or No Deal?


what is CL???

what is CL???
Craig's List

I...What headers does everyone run between the TJ frame rails? I

Block huggers from AA coated and fabbed my own crossover to run in front of the truck pan and down the passenger side.

http://www.hachiya.us/jeep/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/image-thumb5.png

http://www.hachiya.us/Jeep/WTF-J%20Update/images/Chassis_015.jpg

i used advanced adapter headers with cermaic coating...they were only 225 bucks

Thanks...I will check them out.

I am currently in the middle of the swap into a TJ.

For better clearance I changed to a LS1 oil pan and pickup tube off a 98-02 Camaro. I got mine off CL, but think their are aftermarket companies that offer them.

What headers does everyone run between the TJ frame rails? I was thinking about using Edelbrock Shorty Headers with Ti-Tech Coating. They are $291 from Summit Racing. Deal or No Deal?

I am running the Edelbrock Shorty Headers (rear dump) with ceramic coating. They fit great. I also ordered them from Summit. Part # EDL-65002

I am running the Edelbrock Shorty Headers (rear dump) with ceramic coating. They fit great. I also ordered them from Summit.

I spoke with Steve at AA and he claims they don't make a header for the 5.3 swap into a TJ. The headers they make will get into the upper control arm mount and motor mounts.

Guess I will order the Edelbrock Shorty's today.

any center outlet blockhugger should work. Speedway sells some nice ones that aren't too expensive.

I spoke with Steve at AA and he claims they don't make a header for the 5.3 swap into a TJ...

any center outlet blockhugger should work. Speedway sells some nice ones that aren't too expensive.


Hmmm, mine are AA center dump block huggers. I welded the flange on the collector so that I could get them coated, and they are working fine. The AA guys tend to know their stuff, so you might ask them what the deal is.

Here is the view from underneath. The front drive shaft is out, but the control arms are in.

http://www.hachiya.us/jeep/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/image.png

Good luck!

Howell(Detroit OEM boy's) harness and computer slightly modified. 6.0,4L80e trans. Truck exhaust manifolds(lq4) keeps the heat away from the motor creates more torque and I don't have to deal with header or collector gaskets!.Atlas 4 spd. 513's and 47LTB's. It'll do 100mph easy.:D

does anyone that did a 5.3 and 4l60e swap feel like its underpowered for what it is rated to put out?

i have this in my tj, and it just feels like it should have more getup and go.

my tj is stock ride height with 31's on it.

wanted to get the engine swap done while i can still reach into the engine bay without a freaking box to stand on.

does anyone that did a 5.3 and 4l60e swap feel like its underpowered for what it is rated to put out?

i have this in my tj, and it just feels like it should have more getup and go.

my tj is stock ride height with 31's on it.

I helped a friend install a 2005 5.3L LM7 and 4L65E into his TJ on 35s and 5.13 gears. Compared to the 4.0L it is awesome. It has more than enough power in my opinion. It seems to get moving rather quickly, but the 5.13s probably help with that.

I'm curious how you pulled this installation off with no lift. How did you route the exhaust on the driver's side? What manifolds are you using? Do you have the air conditioning installed?

duals for now, in the spring im building custom headers to run under oilpan and down pass side. i am using truck factory replacement headers. it works but it aint great, i have my exhaust pionted down and out at the lower control arm bracket, so it gets the exhaust out from under the jeep. i wanted it in there stock, so i would have ample clearance for everything when i longarm it. no on ac, im going to make brackets to mount it on top of the pass side head,

I just got my jeep CJ back from the shop building my front drive shaft...they used a two piece in the front and it came out realy nice...i also had the exhasut ran under the oil pan and a 2 into 1 with a 3 inch tail pipe....i will post a bunch of pics for everyone to see...i am almost done and ready to wheeling!! I just need my replacment flex alite fan, since the first one they sent was broken. :(

I just got my jeep CJ back from the shop building my front drive shaft...they used a two piece in the front and it came out realy nice...i also had the exhasut ran under the oil pan and a 2 into 1 with a 3 inch tail pipe....i will post a bunch of pics for everyone to see...i am almost done and ready to wheeling!! I just need my replacment flex alite fan, since the first one they sent was broken. :(

Please post some pictures I would love to see how this was done. What was the name of the shop?

i want a good motor like this

if you havent already, you can get a shallow pan from a car(camaro, firebird) forget the exact vehicle. and it will bolt right in place with a new filter. it helps alot. you might also need to clearance pan(depending on driveshaft)

when i do the swaps(5.3, 4.8, 5.7 and 4l60e) into FJ 40 landcruisers, i get the shallow pan and advance adapters narrow driveshaft kit. it is still tight, but it works.

if you are interested i can get the part numbers i use and post them(trans pan and filter)

I would love part numbers and any pictures.

We are finishing up a Ls-6, th400, atlas Tj. Painless wiring, all Advanced Adapter parts. I did change the altanater bracket, due to fender clearance and the crappy factory steering pump. Upgraded to PSc p-pump. Check it.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0082_wm.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0109_wm.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0032_wm.jpg

lost my notes on the trip home. ill have them monday, sorry!

that is a sweet lookin rig!!

ok i finally got my pics of my 5.3 swap
motor http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/535.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/536.jpg

2 piece front drive shaft http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/531.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/534.jpg

oil pan hanging really low!!! i need to change it out asap!!
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/533.jpg

had to heat and bend the dana 300 shifter to clear the body
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a126/mike4089/532.jpg

that is an interesting set up. You must have been having the same problem I'm having, which is not being able to get the engine far enough to the drivers side to have the driveshaft clear the pan. Are the drive line angles on the front driveshaft an issue? What did you make the intake out of? Is that a Lokar shifter?

If the motor was anymore to the driverside the header would not clear the frame rail...the drive shaft seems to be fine, I drove it today for a little bit and it did fine...yes it is a lokar shifter and so far I love it. It works perfect and it worked well with my factory shifter boot

also...the intake is off an S-10. I cut it in half and turned the second bend around...i then used a plastic welder to put it back together Worked perfect and then threw a K&N filter on and it was done

do you have pics of this??? I had a 4x4 shop swap a 5.3, 700r4 and dana 300 in my 83 cj...they said the front drive shaft will be a 2 piece with carrier bearing. No big deal i guess, i just wanted to see how other were building these shafts.

Also does anyone have pics of there oil pans for the 5.3's I feel like the truck pan hangs down really low, and i dont like it at all. I dont know if its because of the way this shop mounted the motor or what, but its to low for my comfort. I was thinking of swapping out oil pans, but i dont know if anyone has done that before or not.

Talk to Greg@rme on here.... He just swapped out pans for this reason and he'd know what the donor was...

Filter/Gasket GM#24236799
Shallow Pan GM#8667545

when i do the swaps(5.3, 4.8, 5.7 and 4l60e) into FJ 40 landcruisers, i get the shallow pan and advance adapters narrow driveshaft kit. it is still tight, but it works.

if you are interested i can get the part numbers i use and post them(trans pan and filter)

I checked AA"s web page but didn't see anything about a narrow driveshaft kit. More Info please, thanks

didn't check their site, but found paperwork. AA # 716370 (for course spline toyota t/c)

LS oil pan tech here: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/817787-lsx-oil-pans.html

yes, i ran a stock 3550 with a ls 2. put a 4ls0e in. i have a bell housing and clutch flywheel if anybody wants them. mase

You still have this? I sent you a PM a few days ago with no response....

well...i drove my jeep yesterday for the third time since the swap I gagged it going down the road at around 20mph...the rear end broke loose...then i blew up all the spider gears, inside the dana 44....what a wonderful newyears for me!!! Now im gonna buy an arb and throw it in there...oh well...

damn, did you mash it to the floor or just kinda get on it? my 8.8 is holding up good so far.

I got my harness from howell which made a direct plugin for a cj7. I like my 700r4 and you can buy one with a mild build up.

Did any body else have a overheating problem with the 5.3 conversion?

damn, did you mash it to the floor or just kinda get on it? my 8.8 is holding up good so far.

i was maybe 3/4 throttle...tires just let loose and that was it...im going ARB locker...it should be alot stronger then the factory spider gears....oh well there was nothing i could do but laugh at the situation

hwta are you guys using for a throttle cable and how about the fuel system? I've heard lots of mixed things about fuel delivery

hwta are you guys using for a throttle cable and how about the fuel system? I've heard lots of mixed things about fuel delivery

I'm no where near this point, but for now I plan on keeping the drive by wire and TJ fuel system. If I need more fuel, I'll upgrade the pump to the Walboro 255 like others have done. My last resort will be the 99 Corvette fuel filter, return line and hollowed out pressure regulator.

I wonder if you can change the pressure coming out of the stock TJ regulator? Hmmmmmmmmm I've never had one apart myself, so I'm not sure if once apart it can be put back together with a heavier spring?

i ran a new bulkhead in my tj tank, all new 3/8 supply line, a mallory external pump, check valve, and filter. i used the factory supply line as the return line. it works great and the mallory pump is alot quieter than the ebay inlines.

throttle cable was donated by the truck tht my motor came out of, it works fine.

i'll tell you what i use for the landcruisers that get the LS series truck motors.

lokar throttle cable fot the LS series engine. they are really nice to work with and not really that expensive.

have been using the MSD 2225 inline fuel pump, but it is very noisy. i am currently looking for a much quieter option(i will look into the mallory pump)

for the fuel lines, use a puralator gm filter with the threaded ends and get the fittings from advance auto parts fron tthe help section. they also have the quick connect fittings for fuel rail(has quick connect on one side and a barb on the other.

i didn't read the entire thread, so if this has already been covered just ignore me.

What are you guys using for shifters with your autos?

I'm wondering if the TJ auto shifter will work with the 4l60e?

We are finishing up a Ls-6, th400, atlas Tj. Painless wiring, all Advanced Adapter parts. I did change the altanater bracket, due to fender clearance and the crappy factory steering pump. Upgraded to PSc p-pump. Check it.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0082_wm.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0109_wm.jpg

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s50/screemin-lizard/Ls-6%20TJ/DSC_0032_wm.jpg

Do you have more pictures of what you did with the exhaust? Did you put a cat in it or just muffler? Thanks!!

i used a lokar shifter in my tj, it mounts to the top of the 4l60e, sticking up through the floor it looks like a manual shifter. works awesome, one of my favorite swap pieces.

same shifter i used in my cj....looks awesome and is a quality piece

also used the lokar shifter and it works very well. it is a bit tricky to adjust the linkage on a 4L60 with the PNP switch.

i used a lokar shifter in my tj, it mounts to the top of the 4l60e, sticking up through the floor it looks like a manual shifter. works awesome, one of my favorite swap pieces.

Got a picture to share so I can see what it looks like installed?

73 cj5 -vortec 5.7 ,full manuil 350 trans ,205 case

i used a lokar shifter in my tj, it mounts to the top of the 4l60e, sticking up through the floor it looks like a manual shifter. works awesome, one of my favorite swap pieces.

What length lokar shifter did you use?

I am running the Edelbrock Shorty Headers (rear dump) with ceramic coating. They fit great. I also ordered them from Summit. Part # EDL-65002

What motor mounts did you use?

My motor mounts came from Advance Adapters and was told the center dump would have issues.

Is it the cable shifter or the one with the linkage for the 4L60E. I am looking for a shifter aswell.

Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...

Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...

The way I understand it is 03 and older have a return line off the motor and a regulator on the fuel rail. 04 and up is returnless and needs an external regulator.

Here is a pan from http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/LS_F_body_thumb.gif

It's a roadrace pan with 4 gates. It's setup to run as a remote oil filter.

The way I understand it is 03 and older have a return line off the motor and a regulator on the fuel rail. 04 and up is returnless and needs an external regulator.

Roger That. My motor is from an '01 Yukon, so it has a return line on the fuel rail. I will plumb it up using the Mallory pump and hope for no exploding motors.

What are you guys doing for exhaust? Any pics?

I am using a pan from http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/LS_F_body_thumb.gif

It's a roadrace pan with 4 gates. It's setup to run as a remote oil filter.



how thick is the metal on this pan?? this is a good 3 inches shorter then my truck pan that i need to get rid of...im thinking maybe some 3/8 plate welded on the bottom might make a good skid just in case....also do you have any pics of your external mounted oil filter? did you have to change the pump style? show us some more info on this....

Roger That. My motor is from an '01 Yukon, so it has a return line on the fuel rail. I will plumb it up using the Mallory pump and hope for no exploding motors.

my 02 silverado motor was hooked up with a fuel pump and the factory return line and nothing happened...you only need the regulator if you dont use the return line

how thick is the metal on this pan?? this is a good 3 inches shorter then my truck pan that i need to get rid of...im thinking maybe some 3/8 plate welded on the bottom might make a good skid just in case....also do you have any pics of your external mounted oil filter? did you have to change the pump style? show us some more info on this....

It just sheet metal. No pump change as far as I know. The pan is pretty short.

I don't know if any of you guys are running A/C, but I understand the compressor is in a bad spot near the passenger frame rail. Do you all just notch the framerail or does any one make a compressor relocation kit?

I don't know if any of you guys are running A/C, but I understand the compressor is in a bad spot near the passenger frame rail. Do you all just notch the framerail or does any one make a compressor relocation kit?

Both. I've seen a bracket that relocates it to the top? of the motor on ebay. That's about all I know :D

Both. I've seen a bracket that relocates it to the top? of the motor on ebay. That's about all I know :D

there are a couple threads on PBB where the builder had to notch the tj frame for the compressor, but on my yj, even after I moved the engine, etc. 1 inch to the right, there was plenty of room for the accessories.

1953 CJ3a buggy with 5.3, 70r4 and Atlas II 3.8. Love it.

Thats exacty my drivetrain and I couldnt be happier I can fry of some rubber.

What are you guys using for shifters with your autos?

I'm wondering if the TJ auto shifter will work with the 4l60e?

Lokar also makes a grear shifter my 700r4. Not like a art car whivh has a short handle.

Talk to Greg@rme on here.... He just swapped out pans for this reason and he'd know what the donor was...


Here's the info on the truck to LS1 oil pan swap-

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showpost.php?p=562435&postcount=478

I thought I'd post a follow-up on how the rig has been working, some of the issues I've had...

Engine oil pan- The engine oil pan is my Achilles Heel. The bottom of the pan is very low, matter of fact the bottom of the pan is level with the centerline of my front axle housing!! This is due to the low lift height (3" lift) and running the truck oil pan that came with the Chevy truck 5.3l motor. It's also aluminum, which is quite brittle. I have already scraped it a couple times (Including last weekend) and I have to be very cautious and mindful of where rocks end up when straddling them. I need to buy the parts for the Camaro oil pan which is shallower and then I need to build a beefy steel skidplate to add more protection for the engine and transmission oil pans.


Just updating this, I finally swapped out the truck oil pan for the LS1 or Camaro/Firebird oil pan. Overall I gained about 3.25" of ground clearance. The bottom of my oil pan is now much higher off the ground. Before it was 17" from flat ground to the bottom of my oil pan, now it's over 20". It may not sound like much, but it is. The engine oil pan is level with the transmission oil pan, and they both sit just above where the Belly skidplate is. Eventually I'm going to add a steel skidplate to protect the engine and transmission.


Kiel posted this on here first, so thanks to him here's the part numbers and approx. costs to swap on the LS1 oil pan. You can buy the parts from www.gmpartsdirect.com

12558251 - SCREEN
Part#: 12558251
Manufacturer Part#: 12558251
(Qty: 1 x $33.91)

12558253 - DEFLECTOR
Part#: 12558253
Manufacturer Part#: 12558253
(Qty: 1 x $17.83)

12558762 -1998-2003 Camaro/Firebird LS1 Oil Pan Pan
Part#: 12558762
Manufacturer Part#: 12558762
(Qty: 1 x $164.95)

12551577 - TUBE
Part#: 12551577
Manufacturer Part#: 12551577
(Qty: 1 x $7.04)

12551581 - INDICATOR
Part#: 12551581
Manufacturer Part#: 12551581
(Qty: 1 x $9.99)



I do have some exhaust work to do still, since the oil pan sump on the LS1 pan is a few inches further forward. My original exhaust isn't going to work, the crossover interferes with the oil pan. :sick:


Here's how it looks-

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/gallery/d/6824-4/100_6186+_Medium_.JPG

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/gallery/d/6827-4/100_6188+_Medium_.JPG

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/gallery/d/6830-4/100_6189+_Medium_.JPG


FYI... you will need to run the LS1 oil filter, the truck oil filter will not fit on the LS1 pan due to a different thread size.

Here's the info on the truck to LS1 oil pan swap-

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showpost.php?p=562435&postcount=478

Just ordered all of that up for mine...:smokin:

I also ordered:
O-ring for Oil pump pickup: 12557752

Shipping was very high in my opinion - $55. To do over, I'd print the list/pricing from GMDirect and take it into your local dealer and see if they will match the prices.

Yep, the shipping was a bit much. I remember when I ordered mine that is was high. BTW, an o-ring comes with the new pick up.

here are some pics of what i do for the fuel delivery.

this is for a TBI
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3574.jpg

this is for a 4.8L
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3578.jpg

here is how the 4.8L fits in an FJ 40. some what similar in space under the hood.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3584.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3585.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3586.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3587.jpg

also a picture of the Lokar shifter
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3589.jpg

Nice!

Do you have a regulator? Or is it in the rail and that's the return I see by the filter/pump?

Nice!

Do you have a regulator? Or is it in the rail and that's the return I see by the filter/pump?

the engine/trans is an 02. it has the regulator built into the rail. the supply is 3/8 and the return is 5/16. the retrun goes from the rail to the tank.

Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...

I just returned the fuel off the rail.

I originally had an inline pump and thought it ran awesome. Those inline pumps just dont last and I new I needed a change but after the first one was noisy as hell and the second one left me stranded, I had had it! I floped out the wallet for a genright tank that alowed for a streach and accepted a regulator, sending unit and pump from a YJ. Holy shit it ran and started like a turbo charger. i Also had trouble in moab with vapor locking. The gas a fuel run a lot cooler now. I would highly recommend it. The YJ pump puts out 50-60 psi.


http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/EngineF.jpg

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/EngineL-1.jpg

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/EngineR-1.jpg

here are some pics of what i do for the fuel delivery.

this is for a TBI
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3574.jpg

this is for a 4.L
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3578.jpg

here is how the 4.L fits in an FJ 40. some what similar in space under the hood.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3586.jpg

also a picture of the Lokar shifter
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u244/skrewball_03/DSCN3589.jpg

I see you have a dual diaphragm master cyl. How do you like it and how did you know which proportioning valve to use?

Take a look at what I did with the adjustable proportioning valve.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/EngineL-1.jpg

I'm not that anxious to get out and set it up!!!!! I guess it can be pretty dangerous. I had stock brakes what a pig to stop. I couldn't lock em up even if I passed a naked chick thumbing for a ride. Going to wilwood disks all the way around and this new master cyl.

It will be great to stop those 40's. Have you slammed on the brakes yet?

Here is my shifter! I really like the Lokar. It bolt right to the top of the transmission. The art car uses a cable which I have always had trouble with.

If you notice the aluminum dash mounted LED P R N 1 2 3 4 gage which you can't see in daylight
is a nice option.

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/Dash2.jpg

This is a shot of the atlas shifters
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp218/Canyonmann/Shifter-1.jpg

the truck has wilwood discs in the front and gm discs in the rear. it stops on a dime.

the booster is too much, all you have to do is breath on the pedal and it stops. the truck only has 33s on it.

the master, booster, P valve, and mount are all a kit from btb. they offer the P valve for 4 disc or rear drum. i would imagine you could make it fit real easy in a jeep, it is all gm stuff.

the P valve is exactly the same as a cj. (for the rear drum option)

73 cj5 -vortec 5.7 ,full manuil 350 trans ,205 case

I am going 5.7 vortec also. I am kinda envious of the 5.3 and 6.0 hp though.


5.7, 4l60e, np231j w/sye

I am going 5.7 vortec also. I am kinda envious of the 5.3 and 6.0 hp though.


5.7, 4l60e, np231j w/sye

nah.... just go LS 5.7 then you will have all the power you need, ha ha.

from experience the 4.8L has alot of power as well and it revs nice and fast.

I am going 5.7 vortec also. I am kinda envious of the 5.3 and 6.0 hp though.


5.7, 4l60e, np231j w/sye

Oh man you put that 5.7 liter in low and your gonna smoke some tire:jeep:and have so much you wont know what to do with your self!!!!!!!!!!

is anyone using the tc that comes mounted on the 4l60e
i know when i done some work on my avalanche i took out the interior harness and kept the little black box wired it in to the switch on the dash and was able to make it work

its confussing to do but i have done it might be an option for some of u guys

pm me ill try to elaborate

How did any of you using stainless steal braided fuel hose attach the line to the stock fuel trail? Do you have any pics?

Right now I'm using generic high pressure rubber fuel hose and I need to up grade. I would hate to see all this hard work burning on fire :mad3:

Also if any of you have used Auto meter gauges which ones work for the 4.8,5.3 and 6.0L? It would be great to score some part #'s for all the gauges!

Thanks, Jay

for the autometer gauges I used their pro comp ultra lite series and used part numbers

4497 for the tach
4357 for trans temp
4375 for air/ fuel ratio
4327 for oil pressure
4487 for speedometer
4391 for voltmeter
4337 for coolant temp

I have not figured out which fuel level gauge I am going to need but will post that when I decide what I am going to do.

Here is a post of my swap in progress
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=752279

Not sure if mine will work yet, as I'm not that far along - but they should. I'm using the Cobalt Digital line for everything. I chose this because all of the fuel gauges that are programmable are full sweep, but they don't have all of the gauges in full sweep. So I didn't want to have mixed full and short sweep. I need the programmable, because I am going to use the Jeep's sending unit, which is 30-240? ohm. Autometer, or anyone else, doesn't make a gauge that will read that ohmage - the programmable will read 0-270 I believe. LIke the programmable speedo, you push a button when empty, push it again when full and it's programmed.

As for the fuel fittings, Russel has them all. Again, not sure if I have the right ones because I'm not that far ahead yet, but I'm pretty sure they will work as well. Russel has push lock fittings for the Jeep and GM :D

How did any of you using stainless steal braided fuel hose attach the line to the stock fuel trail? Do you have any pics?

Right now I'm using generic high pressure rubber fuel hose and I need to up grade. I would hate to see all this hard work burning on fire :mad3:

Thanks, Jay

I just got some adapter fittings from Summit. They're made by Russell and have part numbers RUS-640850 and RUS-640860. They cost about $15 each. They are pretty blue fittings with -6 male threads on one end and the funny female fitting on the other. I can take pictures if needed, but I think this 'splains it pretty well.

Yep, I used the Russel fittings from Summit also, but bought the black ones instead. Don't know because all the rest of the fittings on the system are the blue and red.

So this is a little off the topic of the 5.3 swap, but while we're talking fittings, what kind of thread or what fittings do you guys use to go to and from the 4L60E to the tranny cooler? The fitting in the tranny has some kind of quick connect feature with a snapring. I didn't get the cooler lines from the donor truck, and can't figure out what the thread is to buy hose barb fittings either...

Any of you guys manage to use your stock fuel pump for the SBC swap? I know my TJ pump is regulated to 49psi........which falls short. Is there a way to adjust the factory regulator to make it work, or should I just say screw it and get a new pump?

4L60E + NP241.
Engine, Vortec 6.0
Vehicle: Family Wagon :flipoff2:

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr184/svaras/lq4wag.jpg

http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr184/svaras/medanoso1.jpg?t=1233926649

Question for Gen III swappers....
Will a 5,3 or 6,0 with a LS2 or LS6 intake fit on a CJ2A ?
My worry is the height of the engine, since I do not want to install a hood scoop.
Any input, appreciated.

... can't figure out what the thread is to buy hose barb fittings either...

Try 1/4" NPT fittings.

Good luck.

Question for Gen III swappers....
Will a 5,3 or 6,0 with a LS2 or LS6 intake fit on a CJ2A ?
My worry is the height of the engine, since I do not want to install a hood scoop.
Any input, appreciated.

Where there's a will, there's a way. You might be able to fit it if you use the Camaro intake and oil pan. That cuts down around 6" on the overall height.

What are you guys doing for exhaust? Any pics?
i am using Douge Thorley headers and a Canton Racing low-pro oil pan, i can shut the hood and still keep the motor tucked.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWjLUMh510I/AAAAAAAAAM0/jQS6RQVIfGA/s640/DSC00579.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWjLUx3SIQI/AAAAAAAAAM8/O26toZT8OiA/s640/DSC00580.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWtRigTtb7I/AAAAAAAAATk/K00nTmEpYq8/s640/DSC00621.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWtRjZJDh7I/AAAAAAAAATs/SuNpwRHiOiY/s640/DSC00622.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWtRke1ppnI/AAAAAAAAAT4/3I07jtEMAb4/s640/DSC00623.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWjLS2hj-cI/AAAAAAAAAMs/J0Vo2n_gwsw/s640/DSC00578.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YNaTlxPI9Lg/SWjK2-wfU_I/AAAAAAAAAJg/8Ge05Tbr9Tw/s640/DSC00553.JPG


109" YJ 5.3V8 tubor400 Stak 3spd Shaved 9s w/5.44&detroits

Any of you guys manage to use your stock fuel pump for the SBC swap? I know my TJ pump is regulated to 49psi........which falls short. Is there a way to adjust the factory regulator to make it work, or should I just say screw it and get a new pump?

I was fighting this early on in the planning stages, and I gave up and went with a Corvette filter w/built in regulator... From my understanding the TJ stock pump will flow enough for a mild/stock motor. But I went ahead and upgraded to a 255 lph Walboro. I'll be using the stock regulator for a return only - hollowed out.

This is my plan at this time... I'm not at that point yet :D

Right now i am running the stock TJ pump in a RCI fuel cell. I did this because the engine seemed to run correct w/o any codes on the computer.

Also this gave me a pickup in the tank and still worked with my dash gauge.

This may not be the best way.......but this is the path i chose.

Has anyone triangulated there upper links with a 5.3 with stock truck oil pan. I will be moving to the front suspension within a week or 2 and only think i can do it if i curve the upper links to wrap around the pan.

Currently it is setup with a wishboned upper link.

I plan on running 2" 1/4 wall DOM, i figure it should hold up if i need to bend the link.

I was fighting this early on in the planning stages, and I gave up and went with a Corvette filter w/built in regulator... From my understanding the TJ stock pump will flow enough for a mild/stock motor. But I went ahead and upgraded to a 255 lph Walboro. I'll be using the stock regulator for a return only - hollowed out.

This is my plan at this time... I'm not at that point yet :D

Does Walbro make a drop-in pump for the TJ tank or is it something you have to "make fit"?

Has anyone triangulated there upper links with a 5.3 with stock truck oil pan. I will be moving to the front suspension within a week or 2 and only think i can do it if i curve the upper links to wrap around the pan.

Currently it is setup with a wishboned upper link.

I plan on running 2" 1/4 wall DOM, i figure it should hold up if i need to bend the link.
dud, i would wait to link the front until i had a new oil pan. thoughs truck oil pans hang down so low, and they will bust if you hit it on a rock, you know, cast aluminum. You can even look around and get an LS oil pan and pick-up off of an F body. you would gan alot of clearance and the cost is not terrible.

Other than that, you could always run straight upper link and triangulate to lower links off of a crossmember.

Does Walbro make a drop-in pump for the TJ tank or is it something you have to "make fit"?

At this point, I'll have to say 'I think so', as I haven't tried it yet. There is a kit for the Wrangler, but rather it is a bolt in kit or not, I have no idea yet. I should be working on my fuel setup this weekend....

dud, i would wait to link the front until i had a new oil pan. thoughs truck oil pans hang down so low, and they will bust if you hit it on a rock, you know, cast aluminum. You can even look around and get an LS oil pan and pick-up off of an F body. you would gan alot of clearance and the cost is not terrible.

Other than that, you could always run straight upper link and triangulate to lower links off of a crossmember.

This is what I would do.... Wait until it's in so you KNOW what you have. Looking at mine, with the Camaro pan, it looks as though if your top links came off in the stock location, you could clear it. However, the AC compressor is right there.... Then the crank pulley is right there, too... I think doing this, you might end up having to add some suspension lift to make it work. Me, I like it low...But everyone has their own opinions/tastes.... I know my rig looks killer with 12" of lift and the 40's, but it wheels a lot better with 2"....

At this point, I'll have to say 'I think so', as I haven't tried it yet. There is a kit for the Wrangler, but rather it is a bolt in kit or not, I have no idea yet. I should be working on my fuel setup this weekend....



This is what I would do.... Wait until it's in so you KNOW what you have. Looking at mine, with the Camaro pan, it looks as though if your top links came off in the stock location, you could clear it. However, the AC compressor is right there.... Then the crank pulley is right there, too... I think doing this, you might end up having to add some suspension lift to make it work. Me, I like it low...But everyone has their own opinions/tastes.... I know my rig looks killer with 12" of lift and the 40's, but it wheels a lot better with 2"....
Dude, 12" of lift, do you get nose bleeds up there.

Dude, 12" of lift, do you get nose bleeds up there.

lol it was cool :D Didn't have any choice with the coil combination I had....:(
That's an 8' door off to the right there...
http://www.alljeep.com/coppermine/albums/build/build_038.jpg

And no, it doesn't sit that high anymore.....

Im getting ready to do 6.0 swap for a friend and I have heard alot about speartech harness but cant find any contact info

Im getting ready to do 6.0 swap for a friend and I have heard alot about speartech harness but cant find any contact info

Seriously?:flipoff2:

http://www.speartech.com/

Wow I was just searching for it and the site never came up in the search thanks

Wow I was just searching for it and the site never came up in the search thanks

John took great care of me on mine and I highly recommend him!! Very clean and detailed....:smokin:

How about some more pics of 5.3s in yj's prefferably??? I see they are dirt cheap and I am really thinking I will switch to one in the later future. However start the research process now and dream:D

How did any of you using stainless steal braided fuel hose attach the line to the stock fuel trail? Do you have any pics?

Right now I'm using generic high pressure rubber fuel hose and I need to up grade. I would hate to see all this hard work burning on fire :mad3:

Also if any of you have used Auto meter gauges which ones work for the 4.8,5.3 and 6.0L? It would be great to score some part #'s for all the gauges!

Thanks, Jay

I cut off thue end and used a standard AN fitting works fine.

lol it was cool :D Didn't have any choice with the coil combination I had....:(
That's an 8' door off to the right there...
http://www.alljeep.com/coppermine/albums/build/build_038.jpg

And no, it doesn't sit that high anymore.....

Sorry off thread but how do you l,ike the coil overs on the back of that jeep?

1 info ; i'd like to swap to 5.7 LS1 manteining manual trans with 60 axle front and rear and 37 bogger. Whith solution is best : 5.7 + NV3550+ 231 ( 32 spline output and may be HD with 6 planetary and wide chain) or 5.7 + NV 4550+ 231 or 5.7+NV4550+DANA 300 ( i want max reduction 3:1). Thanks

I wouldn't put a NV3500 behind an LS1, it's just not strong enough. The NV4500/D300 would be a better choice.

Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.

I started a thread in the Jeep Non-Hardcore section but didn’t get much response. Thanks LCAC Man for the one response.

I have a 97 TJ with a 2003 5.3L Chevy in it. The tach is an Autometer. I don’t know the manufacturer of the engine harness. I bought the Jeep with this configuration but the tach is not hooked up.

My question is; does anyone know where to tap into the wiring harness to get the tach signal? Do I need a plug in device?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are worth a million words in my case.

LCAC Man said for a 2001 it is on the PCM C2 pin 10 white wire and to switch to the 4cyl position on the tach. Is this the same for the ’03?

Thanks
Hunt

Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.

Just picked up my 5.3 on Tuesday, leaving it stock, and having a tune done when I send the PCM out. I think 300hp will be plenty for a 3000 lb Flatty! :D

The motor im putting in is the wired pedal , just wondering what you guys did for pedal assemblies. Also is it possible to use the factory gauges? Oh and I'm putting the 6.0 in a 79cj7 w/ 4L80 and d300. Any help would be great

Just picked up my 5.3 on Tuesday, leaving it stock, and having a tune done when I send the PCM out. I think 300hp will be plenty for a 3000 lb Flatty! :D

My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?

My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?

I asked the same thing in general 4x4 chris............They told me lots of money and forced induction. I thought I had seen several guys with 5.3s and 400 horsies but I guess not

My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?

This is the HO all aluminum version, but some ideas, or just give it a 100 shot! :laughing:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0411_lpe_gen3_gm_engine/index.html

I don't think forced induction is necessary. The 5.3 only has 20 less cubic inches than the LS1. I'm sure it could be done with just heads & cam but which combination?

This dude put an LS6 intake and LS1 cam and injectos on his 5.3L. Wonder if he ever dynoed it though?
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/461495-project-lm7-5-3-a.html

I don't think forced induction is necessary. The 5.3 only has 20 less cubic inches than the LS1. I'm sure it could be done with just heads & cam but which combination?

I agree but I am nowhere near familiar with these motors-----------Kyle

This dude put an LS6 intake and LS1 cam and injectos on his 5.3L. Wonder if he ever dynoed it though?
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/461495-project-lm7-5-3-a.html
Not sure why you would want an LS6 intake unless you just need hood clearance. The truck intake makes much torque than any of the other intakes.

Not sure why you would want an LS6 intake unless you just need hood clearance. The truck intake makes much torque than any of the other intakes.

Information to back that up please?

Information to back that up please?
just general info, just check out the 2 links below and look at the engine dyno spec with and without the truck intake.

http://www.turnkeyenginesupply.com/

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/

According to Dyno runs on stock LS1 done by Turnkey Engr. Engines with truck intakes make about 25ft lbs more torque than the same motor with an LS intake. Now, you do give up about 10hp, but big HP in not the most important thing in a Jeep unless all you are doing is wide open hill climbs.

PM me about the coilovers - this isn't the thread... But I like them :D

The 5.3 is part of the LS family and the only difference is the block is made of cast iron instead of AL. In stock form, the 5.3 easily puts out 330 hp - at the wheels. I've seen dozen of dyno charts and they are all right in there, give/take 5hp. So 400 hp should be fairly easy to do without any forced induction or nitrous.

From what I've read, the LS6 and truck intakes are the best flowing of the OEM's. The LS1 is one of the worst.

I'm seeing people swapping in LS6 intakes and Z06 cams - though I'm not seeing any dyno charts.....

The 5.3 I picked up (08 Sierra) has the Z06 heads on it from the factory - 243 is the casting number, they have the D shaped exhaust ports, and springs. I'm not sure about the sodium filled/hollow valves, though, as I'm not sure how to check that... I hear a lot of this about the newer 5.3's coming from the factory with these heads on it... Also, these are the better casting heads with the triangles under the spark plugs. From what I understand, these are the best OEM production heads as far as flow numbers. They also have a smaller combustion chamber.

LS1Tech.com is a good source for this info....:smokin:

ls1tech has a lot of good info if your looking to boost the power. Read the stickies under the external and internal gen III sections. Pretty much all the info will transfer to the 4x4 world but the cams that are mostly talked about are for the upper rpm ranges. But they've also have a few good torque cams discussions on the stickies..

The motor im putting in is the wired pedal , just wondering what you guys did for pedal assemblies. Also is it possible to use the factory gauges? Oh and I'm putting the 6.0 in a 79cj7 w/ 4L80 and d300. Any help would be great

For the pedal, I welded a bracket to mine so it bolts in higher up next to the steering column. I also fabbed a new pedal arm so it would be longer- I didn't like the short throw pedal. Wanted to keep about the same throw and position as the stock CJ pedal.

I know there's a way to use stock gauges...just don't remember the link. I'm using all VDO.

I know there's a way to use stock gauges...just don't remember the link. I'm using all VDO.

Not sure about the stock stuff, but the VDO tach needs a pull-up circuit. You will also need to know how your ECM is programmed to set the tach for 4 or 8 cyl.

Good luck.

I started a thread in the Jeep Non-Hardcore section but didn’t get much response. Thanks LCAC Man for the one response.

I have a 97 TJ with a 2003 5.3L Chevy in it. The tach is an Autometer. I don’t know the manufacturer of the engine harness. I bought the Jeep with this configuration but the tach is not hooked up.

My question is; does anyone know where to tap into the wiring harness to get the tach signal? Do I need a plug in device?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are worth a million words in my case.

LCAC Man said for a 2001 it is on the PCM C2 pin 10 white wire and to switch to the 4cyl position on the tach. Is this the same for the ’03?

Thanks
Hunt



not a very good answer but the shop that wired up my motor used a white wire in the factory wireharness coming directly off the motor under the plastic vortec cover....hooked it up to an aftermarket gauge

Autometer makes a tach adapter (part number 9117 for $70) that splices into either the right or left bank coils and gives you a 4ppr output to feed a standard 8 cyl tach.

couple of questions for you guys - - Do any of you all wish that you would of held out for a 5.7 or a 6.0 or are you happy with the performance of the 5.3. Secondly what did you guys pay for your donor motors/tranny's - - I have a line on a wrecked 2000 silverado for 600.00. 5.3, and I believe 4l60e. Just don't know if I should just keep looking for a 5.7 or 6.0. Your advice is appreciated.

Not sure about the stock stuff, but the VDO tach needs a pull-up circuit. You will also need to know how your ECM is programmed to set the tach for 4 or 8 cyl.

Good luck.

Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

http://lt1swap.com/pictures/tach_circuit_fix.jpg

Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too.

couple of questions for you guys - - Do any of you all wish that you would of held out for a 5.7 or a 6.0 or are you happy with the performance of the 5.3. Secondly what did you guys pay for your donor motors/tranny's - - I have a line on a wrecked 2000 silverado for 600.00. 5.3, and I believe 4l60e. Just don't know if I should just keep looking for a 5.7 or 6.0. Your advice is appreciated.
I have two buddies that have 5.3 powered CJ's, they are both wicked strong.
Only complaints I've heard from either of them is that they can't seem to stay out of the skinny pedal...

Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

http://lt1swap.com/pictures/tach_circuit_fix.jpg

Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too. Wouldn't you want a diode in between the PCM and the resistor, can't imagine the PCM would care for that increase in potential pushing back.

Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

http://lt1swap.com/pictures/tach_circuit_fix.jpg

Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too.

Not saying they are wrong, because I don't know, but I would think that you would want a much higher resistor there - like 5 or even 10k ohms. All you are trying to do is make the voltage high, when there isn't a low there. 680 ohms is putting quite the current load on things when there is a low present, as it's really a short then. Current = Voltage/Resistance.

Personally I'd try it with a larger resistor first; if it works, awesome, you just saved yourself a possible headache down the road. If not, go with a lower value. Even if you started with a 3.3k (orange, orange, red for those not knowing ;) ) first....

Only complaints I've heard from either of them is that they can't seem to stay out of the skinny pedal...

And that's a problem............:homer:

I plan on the 5.3/700R4 in my TJ when this rod knocking 4.0L blows up.

Has anyone triangulated there upper links with a 5.3 with stock truck oil pan. I will be moving to the front suspension within a week or 2 and only think i can do it if i curve the upper links to wrap around the pan.

Currently it is setup with a wishboned upper link.

I plan on running 2" 1/4 wall DOM, i figure it should hold up if i need to bend the link.
I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2009_0113FrontMockup0002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2009_0113FrontMockup0014.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2009_0113FrontMockup0016.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2009_0113FrontMockup0018.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/bbajeep/Scrambled/2009_0118FrontBrackets0005.jpg
That's a 5.3 with a truck pan in the pics. In the end I'll be running a 6.0 with a Camaro oilpan and accessory brackets.

dud, i would wait to link the front until i had a new oil pan. thoughs truck oil pans hang down so low, and they will bust if you hit it on a rock, you know, cast aluminum. You can even look around and get an LS oil pan and pick-up off of an F body. you would gan alot of clearance and the cost is not terrible.

Other than that, you could always run straight upper link and triangulate to lower links off of a crossmember.
It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.

Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.
I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....

My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.

Wouldn't you want a diode in between the PCM and the resistor, can't imagine the PCM would care for that increase in potential pushing back.

Honestly, I haven't gotten even close to this point on my build. This was just a diagram I picked up on the web- have corresponded with the guy via e-mail and he seems to know his stuff. Your diode comment makes sense, though.

Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!

Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!

You can use a pull type slave cylinder instead.

I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.

That's a 5.3 with a truck pan in the pics. In the end I'll be running a 6.0 with a Camaro oilpan and accessory brackets.


It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.


I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....


You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.



Thanks for the pics and info......i will need to snap a few pics because i dont have near the room

Not saying they are wrong, because I don't know, but I would think that you would want a much higher resistor there - like 5 or even 10k ohms. All you are trying to do is make the voltage high, when there isn't a low there. 680 ohms is putting quite the current load on things when there is a low present, as it's really a short then. Current = Voltage/Resistance.

Personally I'd try it with a larger resistor first; if it works, awesome, you just saved yourself a possible headache down the road. If not, go with a lower value. Even if you started with a 3.3k (orange, orange, red for those not knowing ;) ) first....

Here is the LS1Tech.com write-up I did on my install. I used a 1K-Ohm 1/4 watt resistor (Radio Shack 271-1321)

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/939102-vdo-tach-install-lessons-learned.html

Good luck!

Here a question for you all that have you 5.3L up and running. Have any of you guys run into a poping noise out the exhaust only under exceleration?

It sound to me that the are a bad baffle in the muffler, but then again its one of those little basterard that you can look into & see, but nothing is loose/broken.

I talked to several ppl & they say that its the knock sensor's or could be internal.

Running out of solutions.

Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!


I just got a pair of headers from AA and received them in 2 days. Work great with slave cyl on a NV4500.

good luck

Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!

You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.

Let me know what you end up going with. I wasn't aware that AA sold headers.

You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.

Let me know what you end up going with. I wasn't aware that AA sold headers.

Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!

Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!

Crap, just noticed you have a YJ, that would explain why you can get AA headers. For TJ's they just recommend using OEM manifolds from a '99-05 GM 1500. Good luck, I'd be getting those if I knew they'd work.

$207 is a nice price even for plain steel.

I thought it was good, and I can get them ceramic coated here for about $100.00, so I think it'll be cool, just heard from a few people they have a tendency to leak a little. We'll see. Good luck!

So the plans in the near future is to run the 5.3 with a 4l60e but im not sure about what t-case to run. At this time atlas is out of the question(price), im not sure if a stock case that came bolted to the 4l60e will work due to length, Will a chevy np231 bolt/hold up to the 4l60e( i know it will bolt to 700r4), or what other options do i have? Also the vss, if im correct needs to be between the 4l60e and t-case to receive the correct readings in 4low so the trans will know when to shift? Is that right or can the vss be located in the output in the t case. Another question i have is the fawk'n fuel pump is the yj 2.5 pump adequate or is it maybe, maybe not? some people say yes some say NO.

btw now it has the 2.5/ax5/np231 setup 8.8 rearend and dana 30 upfront

Sorry about all of the question, somebody school me on this.

Thanks Alex

If you are sticking with a drivers side drop front axle you could go with a chevy np241. Be sure its a driver drop before you buy it as they make both. You can get them with a 27 spline input which should bolt right up to the 4L60 (heck, you might find that entire drivetrain if you're lucky).

I believe that any of the 241's that came behind the 4L60, 700R, and TH350 would be 27 spline input. If it came behind the 4L80, TH400, or SM465 it will be 32 spline.

If you are sticking with a drivers side drop front axle you could go with a chevy np241. Be sure its a driver drop before you buy it as they make both. You can get them with a 27 spline input which should bolt right up to the 4L60 (heck, you might find that entire drivetrain if you're lucky).

I believe that any of the 241's that came behind the 4L60, 700R, and TH350 would be 27 spline input. If it came behind the 4L80, TH400, or SM465 it will be 32 spline.

X2, that's what I went with.

X2, that's what I went with.

Nice exhaust..........that is exactly what I am planning for mine. Is that dual 2.5"s into a 3" outlet?

X2, that's what I went with.

Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there? I've thought of that going that way, but I'm afraid of it being too low.
I tried going to your build thread to look for myself, but I don't have an account and the account nazi's stop you.

Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?:confused:

Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there?

I kept it as tight to the bell-housing as I could (it will all be heat wrapped as well), it is completely above the bottom of my frame rails, however you have to keep in mind that I elevated the trans/t-case and did some floor surgery to make that happen.

Nice exhaust..........that is exactly what I am planning for mine. Is that dual 2.5"s into a 3" outlet?

yepper

Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?:confused:

I'm using the stock rear housing NP241 VSS sensor/placement. I've never heard of the problem you mention, but, it does make sense that the pcm wouldn't take in account the low range of the t-case if the VSS was coming from the input side of the T-case.

OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Wiring harness/ecm: $300- $1500 depending on who you go with. I prefer Howell and they run about $1000

Engine mounts: if you make your own, about $50, premade(such as advance adapters) about $150-$200

T case adapter: about $550. You can find these used for alot less, and I just happen to have one for sale(shameless plug)

radiator: you can get a universal griffin for around $200 and have a shop make brackets for it for around $50.. OR you can spend $400+ on a bolt in, ready to go radiator.

Tranny shifter: figure $200 on the high side of the scale

Gauges: figure $500+ for aftermarket gauges

Misc: figure another $500 for misc. stuff.. hose clamps, fuel fittings and other ods and ends will nickle and dime you

OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Beyond the cost of the motor/trans/t-case I'd say you're looking at another $1500 if you are willing to do alot of the work. Motor mount kits run $175-$300, Wiring harness can range from $100 (DIY) to $750 for a custom built piece. You've got PCM tuning, fuel system, exhaust, cooling system, and drivetrain/driveline mods to consider as well.

I kept it as tight to the bell-housing as I could (it will all be heat wrapped as well), it is completely above the bottom of my frame rails, however you have to keep in mind that I elevated the trans/t-case and did some floor surgery to make that happen.

I like the way that looks a lot better than going up and around the oil pan. I changed mine on my Rubicon when it had the 4.0, too.

What headers are those? They look really nice as well. I'm really looking forward to building up this motor in the years to come and am looking at the accessories right now :D

OK - -put up with me for one more stupid question. I am looking to do this same motor/tranny swap in my tj. I was just wonder what kind of expense I am looking at other than the motor and tranny itself. What did you guys spend on motor mounts, wiring harness .....

I can affor the motor now but just didn't know what other cost I would encounter??? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'll be into mine about $7k -
$2500 motor, trans, wiring, PCM, bolt on accessories
$1200 gauges/wideband o2
$500 for the custom harness (Speartech - John is awesome!)
$400 for HP Tuners (PCM tuning software)...
$2000 for upgraded sun shield (internal tranny part), tranny/tcase adapter, tranny output shaft, motor mounts, AL radiator, SPL fan, etc.

Then you have littler things like exhaust, fuel, power steering, etc. Smaller in $'s, but they add up quick.

Thanks for the replies you all! Looks like I need to save some coin.

Thanks for the replies you all! Looks like I need to save some coin.

I didn't do mine on the cheap. There were ways I could have saved money, but didn't. I bought everything, instead of making them - for one. Two, I would bet my 3 row CSF radiator would have been enough to cool the V8, but bought a $600 AL radiator instead. I could have kept the OEM gauges and ran two computers, but I didn't. I could have got an older motor and saved money there, but I didn't - I bought a motor/trans that was out of 6 month old 2008 Sierra with under 5k miles on it.

I think it could be done closer to $3k than $7k. Just depends on how much work you want to do yourself.

What headers are those?
Company called OBX, application is a 03-05 Escalade if I remember right. Got them on Ebay.

Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!

Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!

No help here, but that was one of the many reasons I dumped my manual for the 4L60E... Love the stick, but it really seemed easier to make the auto work. With all the flexibility I'll have with the auto and tuning, I'm liking the swap better. Of course I haven't driven it yet, so I can't give any real answers there....

Call AA and talk to Vic or Theaten (sorry if I mispelled it - the htought was there!). They'll know better...

Okay, I've hit a wall. I'm running Ford 60's front and rear. I have a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas 3.8 w/ driver's drop. The bell housing I ended up with is out of an '85 K5 Blazer with an external slave.

The problem: The Atlas shifter mounting rod hits the tranny unless I clock the t-case flat. If I clock it flat, the driveline is about an inch below the slave at sprung weight, so it will take out slave as soon as drivers front wheel flexes at all.

My question: Anybody have any ideas about what bellhousing and internal slave I can run? If so, that would help me tremendously, otherwise I'm looking at about $2K-3K for a 700R4 that will work. Rather not run an auto and rather not spend $3K that I do not have. Any help appreciated!!


Cool, got it running and it came down to a missing fuse!!!! Now on tho the next issue!

UPDATES ANYBODY??? :smokin:

UPDATES ANYBODY??? :smokin:

I just finished putting the fenders/grille back on mine. All of the fluids are in. Still need to do exhaust, finish wiring, AC hoses, and build dash/install gauges. Tomorrow or Thursday (depending on availability of trailer) it will go into the exhaust shop. Tomorrow or Thursday I should be able to button up the AC lines. I can see all of the vitals on my laptop through the OBDII port, so the dash/gauges aren't a high priority to start/drive the thing. Friday I should get the rest of the wiring done and be able to take it for a shakedown run over the weekend. Right now I'm going to head out and finish up the shifter mounting bracket on the trans and build a new tranny mount.

Oh, and I still need to locate all of the canister, etc off the truck that this motor came from. Yard doesn't have any of it, so I'm going to end up ordering it. :(

Of course there is still some little I's and T's to dot and cross, like reinstall the cage, console, etc.

I just finished putting the fenders/grille back on mine. All of the fluids are in. Still need to do exhaust, finish wiring, AC hoses, and build dash/install gauges. Tomorrow or Thursday (depending on availability of trailer) it will go into the exhaust shop. Tomorrow or Thursday I should be able to button up the AC lines. I can see all of the vitals on my laptop through the OBDII port, so the dash/gauges aren't a high priority to start/drive the thing. Friday I should get the rest of the wiring done and be able to take it for a shakedown run over the weekend. Right now I'm going to head out and finish up the shifter mounting bracket on the trans and build a new tranny mount.

Oh, and I still need to locate all of the canister, etc off the truck that this motor came from. Yard doesn't have any of it, so I'm going to end up ordering it. :(

Of course there is still some little I's and T's to dot and cross, like reinstall the cage, console, etc.


Excellent, sounds like it is coming along nicely. Defeintly get some pics posted up. Where did you guys get your engines from ? Local Yards?

I run a 02 5.7 LS1 w/NV4500. cable throttle, pcm by Spareecm. Smog legal here in Ca. d300 4:1 d60/14 bolt Chromoly detroits 40 mtrs.

Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?:confused:

Yes, I run through this.
It`s a Lq4(6.0) with 4L60E and NP241 on my 89 Wagoneer.
Finally what I did...I just drilled a hole in the rear of the 4L60E and plugged the VSS. I used an NP241 40 tooth VSS pinion, wich I fabricated an internal bushing with 2 parker bolts that ties everything to the output shaft of the transmission. In other words, I just made a home version of the AA reluctor ring (search their web). Now it shifts perfect in high or low range).

Alright thanks for helping me get that straightend out, if i run into problems when doing my swap ill give that a try.

Well, got mine running, but I have to do something different with bellhousing. I'm going to run an internal slave and a different bell housing. Waiting on AA for headers and a new PS pulley from ASP as stock was too big. Once I get pulley on I can mount belt and hoses and air cleaner. Once bellhousing is done, I can mount t-case and put all the drive train back together and get drivelines measured and made. Other than that, just a couple of wiring gremlins on lights and a new brake line. Anyone running stock fuel pump? My motor fires fine with it, and I have an in line, just curious. Anyway, that's where mine is at right now.

Anybody on here running a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas with Ford 60's? If so what did you do for bellhousing and clutch? only thing keeping me from finishing.

Anybody on here running a 5.3, SM465 and an Atlas with Ford 60's? If so what did you do for bellhousing and clutch? only thing keeping me from finishing.

I'm putting an LS1/sm465/atlas in my TJ with a ford d60 front. I'm using the stock aluminum bellhousing that came with the sm465, 02 or later 6.0 truck flywheel with the stock sm465 clutch. The throwout bearing & flywheel were a bitch to find but I got it all together. It doesn't start yet but everything went together fine. Here's a list:

stock sm465 bellhousing
pilot bearing - BRG6302VSP43(NAPA)
novak slave cylinder kit
stock sm465 clutch
02 or later 6.0 truck flywheel
throwout bearing - Timken 1377C

I don't remember what thread it was that someone was wanting an update on keeping the OEM shifter with the 4L60E...

Well, update..

It won't work. I don't have all of the gears. From park to reverse is longer of a throw than the Jeep. So to go P to R, you actually move the shifter from P to N. From there on out it's all the same, but you only have access to PRND3 and not PRND321. But you can go from 3 to R without pushing the button...

Otherwise it works/looks great :D But I'll probably end up with a different shifter so I can keep it in 1st when needed.

This is the drivetrain I went with, it's going behind the 6.0.

Hydrauling bellhousing - SM465 - NP205 Adapter - NP241

http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp220/littletj2003/V8%20Swap/CIMG3039.jpg

The most expensive part (other than the motor) of the entire drivetrain is the damn SYE for the 241.

Have you checked with AA? The 5.3 never had a manual behind it. It requires a different flywheel and pilot bearing. I am running the 5.3/NV4500 and bought the kit from AA for about $1000. Ouch tuff lesson.

Have you checked with AA? The 5.3 never had a manual behind it. It requires a different flywheel and pilot bearing. I am running the 5.3/NV4500 and bought the kit from AA for about $1000. Ouch tuff lesson.

Yea. . . . All you need is a flywheel from a gen III "and prolly newer gen motor" with a manual behind it such as one from a 6.0 truck, f-body, vette, or gto. I got mine from '05 gto used for $50. pilot bearing from Novak, tout-bearing PN: N1086 from centrforce and clutch and pressure plate from original sm465. Including trans it cost me no more than $300. You got hosed.


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UPDATES ANYBODY??? :smokin:

Thump is stripped down currently... '01 5.3/4L60E sitting nearby, Atlas on the way. I'll contribute photos when the project progresses to interesting.

Going in this:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=339816&d=1196830950

I don't remember what thread it was that someone was wanting an update on keeping the OEM shifter with the 4L60E...

Well, update..

It won't work. I don't have all of the gears. From park to reverse is longer of a throw than the Jeep. So to go P to R, you actually move the shifter from P to N. From there on out it's all the same, but you only have access to PRND3 and not PRND321. But you can go from 3 to R without pushing the button...

Otherwise it works/looks great :D But I'll probably end up with a different shifter so I can keep it in 1st when needed.


Wayne,
You just need to make a new lever for the transmission. I think it needs to be a bit longer. You may also need a new rod from that lever to the shifter. Then you figure out the swing distance of the new shift lever and the shifter. Once you have that location, drill the hole and mount it. Another way is to cut a long slot in the shift lever, then you can just move the rod up or down untill you can shift into each gear. Worth the work if you want the stock unit.

Wayne,
You just need to make a new lever for the transmission. I think it needs to be a bit longer. You may also need a new rod from that lever to the shifter. Then you figure out the swing distance of the new shift lever and the shifter. Once you have that location, drill the hole and mount it. Another way is to cut a long slot in the shift lever, then you can just move the rod up or down untill you can shift into each gear. Worth the work if you want the stock unit.

If I change the lengths, it will increase the throw like you say, but won't it put the gates wrong?

Are you running the OEM shifter with the 4l60e? Maybe measure the length of your rod, er lever, so I can compare :D

You may have to adjust the length of the shift lever, rod lengh, and trans shift lever. It will most likely be a combination of the three. A bit of work, but if you start with all new parts and make them adjustable you can make it work. Start in park and adjust it so it all works, then move on to reverse, and so on.
I have not done this on a TJ, but just did it on a FJ62. The theroy is the same.
As far as my rod length, well, that none of your busness!:shaking:

im planning on doing this swap in a yj soon. anyone have any oiling issues using the truck or camaro stock oil pans on steep climbs and decents?

im planning on doing this swap in a yj soon. anyone have any oiling issues using the truck or camaro stock oil pans on steep climbs and decents?

Greg from RME did this to his TJ and had that thing all over the place before he sold it. I never heard him mention any issues? But at this time, that's my only experience - living vicariously through others that had the motor while I was dreaming I had one. Hopefully in two weeks, mine will have been all over Moab and I'll be able to report back with my experience :D

No worries with the oil I can contest to this I have a Gen III with that truck pan. Why would it ever be a problem anyway as long as you had enough oil the pump would pick it up? Giver!

If you leave the low oil sensor hooked up you could use it to give an indication to a light on the dash. It would tell you when the oil is low or getting low before your at an angle to damage the engine.

thanks for the info, i have just heard of people gating the pans so when there smoking al for on a steep climb the dont lose oil pressure. id heard that was a problemwith these engines but wanted to see all of your experience wth the 5.3

I have been doing a 03 5.3 4l60e to dana 300 in my 82 Scrambler. Got it all installed and wired and had a few questions about the little odds and ends. Have people been adapting the jeep throttle cable to the chevy throttle body? I could also use some ideas on intake hose routing, are people using the throttle body coolant lines?
thanks,
Jake

I am in the middle of a LS1/NV4500 swap on my TJ. (The build thread is on here). Holley sells a carb adapter kit that comes with different throttle cable balls...I just go the one that worked with my throttle cable(stock TJ). I then cut the factory style cable attachment on the LS1, and tig welded the ball style one in its place. Lokar also sells a nice cable setup

I was lucky enough to just use the stock on from my YJ. It was tight and the peddle is touchy but it's fun and snappy. I used the coolant lines off the throttle body to keep it as stock as possible. All I did was "T" it into the return line to the rad. All good!

I have been doing a 03 5.3 4l60e to dana 300 in my 82 Scrambler. Got it all installed and wired and had a few questions about the little odds and ends. Have people been adapting the jeep throttle cable to the chevy throttle body? I could also use some ideas on intake hose routing, are people using the throttle body coolant lines?
thanks,
Jake

Lokar 32" cable is your best bet. You can buy 4" silicone elbows and aluminum bends on ebay for your intake. Just plug the coolant line. 4L60e to D300 has terrible d-shaft clearance, real small diameter shaft or two-piece shaft seem to be the ways to solve it. On my buddies build we scrapped the D300 and went with a pass drop NP241 with SYE, way better clearance.

I just opened my pump replaced it with granatelli 255litter 100psi( summitt). had to break down (separate the SS regulator from the plastic base carefully with two large flat head screw drivers 180 degrees opposed so as to not dent or brake the ss regulator) the regulator and soldered brass 3/8 fitting to the SS housing and then reconnected it. got 75 psi constant. Possibly your stock pump will give you 65 psi if you break down the regulator and try it, i did not, for I had already bought the Granatelli and wanted the extra flow, I am now installing mallory pressure regulator ( $99.95 ) summit with return to tank. I will regulate at 65 psi. I have 2008 5.3l all aluminum from a tahoe with 4x4 Tahoe trany.

So who has updates?:flipoff2:

I just opened my pump replaced it with granatelli 255litter 100psi( summitt). had to break down (separate the SS regulator from the plastic base carefully with two large flat head screw drivers 180 degrees opposed so as to not dent or brake the ss regulator) the regulator and soldered brass 3/8 fitting to the SS housing and then reconnected it. got 75 psi constant. Possibly your stock pump will give you 65 psi if you break down the regulator and try it, i did not, for I had already bought the Granatelli and wanted the extra flow, I am now installing mallory pressure regulator ( $99.95 ) summit with return to tank. I will regulate at 65 psi. I have 2008 5.3l all aluminum from a tahoe with 4x4 Tahoe trany.

I will probably end up changing over to a manual regulator - been eye balling that Mallory.... I've replaced my Corvette filter twice and I'm only seeing 43 psi at the fuel rail. When I bought the second one, the GM parts guy said they have had issues with the regulators being bad. Apparently 2, and they are identical in pressure and appearance. Both are bypassing fuel, so I know my setup is delivering more than enough pressure otherwise it wouldn't bypass.

But I'm now into it ~$140 for two Corvette filters. What is that Mallory, $90? Sometimes easy isn't best.....

IIRC GM says 56-61 psi is spec....

Has anyone had issues with the 'drive by wire' pedal setup? My engine will run and idle, but the pedal doesn't work. Is there a trick, or something I'm missing? (yes, it's plugged in...). Thanks! :p

Has anyone had issues with the 'drive by wire' pedal setup? My engine will run and idle, but the pedal doesn't work. Is there a trick, or something I'm missing? (yes, it's plugged in...). Thanks! :p

maybe the wrong peddle? I have an 08 Sierra and the peddle didn't really fit the Jeep too well, so I bought one that looked like it would fit better from an 07? Monte Carlo. Either the peddle is bad, or it doesn't work with my setup. Maybe you have the same deal going on.....

maybe the wrong peddle? I have an 08 Sierra and the peddle didn't really fit the Jeep too well, so I bought one that looked like it would fit better from an 07? Monte Carlo. Either the peddle is bad, or it doesn't work with my setup. Maybe you have the same deal going on.....

It did come out of a different truck than the one I got the engine from. When I got home from the junk yard I noticed I didn't have the pedal. They pulled one from another truck a few days later. Everything plugs in nicely, so it seems like it should work...

It did come out of a different truck than the one I got the engine from. When I got home from the junk yard I noticed I didn't have the pedal. They pulled one from another truck a few days later. Everything plugs in nicely, so it seems like it should work...

Yup, same thing here.. The same looking plug on both of my peddles, too. Not saying the applications are different, because maybe it's just a bad pedle? Same with my case.... What's weird about my peddle, is through scanning software (and an OHM meter) as you push the peddle down, it goes from 0 to 50% then back to 0 at WOT. The other peddle doesn't - the one that worked.

....Just something to look into.....

Yup, same thing here.. The same looking plug on both of my peddles, too. Not saying the applications are different, because maybe it's just a bad pedle? Same with my case.... What's weird about my peddle, is through scanning software (and an OHM meter) as you push the peddle down, it goes from 0 to 50% then back to 0 at WOT. The other peddle doesn't - the one that worked.

....Just something to look into.....

What pins are you measuring the resistance across? I'll run out and measure mine.

Yup, same thing here.. The same looking plug on both of my peddles, too. Not saying the applications are different, because maybe it's just a bad pedle? Same with my case.... What's weird about my peddle, is through scanning software (and an OHM meter) as you push the peddle down, it goes from 0 to 50% then back to 0 at WOT. The other peddle doesn't - the one that worked.

....Just something to look into.....

I poked around with my meter and found two pins that swept from 4.7 k ohms - 3.1 k ohms from 0 to full throttle, and another two pins that swept from about 1.6 k ohms to 2.6 k ohms from 0 to full throttle. Looks like everything is linear at least.

While we're talking about DBW, how many different TAC modules did the trucks come with? I got a 6.0 out of an 01 Yukon Denali and didn't get the TAC box with it. What other trucks can I look for to rob one from?

I am running a 5.3 with 4l60 trans and a stock 2002 avalanche trans case .I have been running this setup for two years now . The stock push button case is a POS . I have a 241 case and a 231 case in my garage . I wanted to use the 241 but the SYE kit was a little steep for me . So I ordered what I thought to be a SYE for a 231 c . I thought it would work with my vss since it is a chevy case . I got it all put together and noticed the vss is for the 231 j case . Is there any way to use the jeep vss and make the chevy read it correctly ? Or do I need to put a speed sensor on my tail shaft ?:confused: