Almost done with my harness for 1.6 8v swap into my Sami.

Sorry allot of questions here.

Using this link http://www.yankeetoys.org/mini4x/efiswap/efiswap.htm

Green Plug

7 Blue/Black Ignition Power Hook to Heater fuse run heart to Defroster fuse
This wire turns into one wire with this one.

1 Blue/Black Ignition Power Hook to existing ECM fuse
http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/4200/dsc008373850747wm0.jpg

What does hook the heater fuse then to run "heart" to defrost fuse?
It splits off to the yellow plug and to a relay and to the engine harness.

I don't want to cut these at the plug then wire them into the places it says do I?
Don't those need to supply power to the relay and other things they run off?
Do I just splice into the wires and leave them hooked up everywhere else they go?

Also there is a pink wire running out of the fuel pump relay that went to a plug that I am no longer using. Will I use this to run my new fuel pump?

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/1979/dsc008363845339pf2.jpg

I was trimming my VSS sensor to fit in the speedo and dropped in on the ground then stepped on it!

http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/8202/dsc008403865672ps9.jpg
How fat is this thing going to run without it? It's a 94 engine.


http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/2868/dsc008413870144nj3.jpg

yeah, the pink is for fuel pump.

"What does hook the heater fuse then to run "heart" to defrost fuse?"

what?

yeah, the pink is for fuel pump.

"What does hook the heater fuse then to run "heart" to defrost fuse?"

what?

oooo I got somebody to bite!

lol I'm meant to ask what the hell does that mean?

"7 Blue/Black Ignition Power Hook to Heater fuse run heart to Defroster fuse"

so hook to heater fuse or defrost fuse? what is the "heart" of it?

by "heart" they actually mean flux capacitor.

get the schematic from this page. (http://www.suzukiinfo.com)

what year harness are you working with? I got some schematics for the ecm and stuff. I seem to have misplaced my main one from the original suzuki service manual. but I got other diagrams from haynes and chilton's.
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/92-9516lMFIwiring.jpg
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/91-9516LTBI.jpg
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/90-9513LTBI.jpg



got a few more

Thanks man, it's a 94 harness.

keep it up i'm gonna add this to the FAQ

Here is a good answer I got from "Dogonmut" on another forum.

1st issue Blue/Black wire
I have found much success getting rid of the main relay of a 91-94 set up. Use an aftermarket relay, fuse it at 10 amps, and use a "start/run" source to trigger it. Connect the blue/black & the black/white wire that were originally connected to the main relay to the output of the after market relay. Terminate the blue line that was connected to the main relay, it is the logic ground from the ECU.

2nd fuel pump relay issue
Leave the fuel pump relay in tact. It is triggered by a logic ground from the ECU and need to remain that way so the fuel system gets "pulsed" at the initial start up. This happens via the logic ground. Some after market Ford type pumps and others will spike power when initially started and can often increase amp draw as the system builds pressure. For what ever reason the stock fuel pump relay does not like that. Again, I have found much success adding an additional after market relay in line.

The loose pink line coming out of the fuel pump relay is suppose to power your fuel pump. Instead wire an aftermarket relay, fused at 20 amps to be triggered by that pink wire. Then feed the fuel pumps electrical needs from the output of the aftermarket relay. This will prevent any overloading or inconsistencies that the fuel pump may throw into the system since the stock fuel pump relay is now only a trigger.

Issue #3 how fat?
Not at all. It will actually run lean because the system will think you are sitting still and revving the motor with out a load. If it's just a wheelin' rig, don't worry about it. If it's a DD or gets driven to the trail then fix it. I think Myron charges less the $50 to install one.

Remember, a lean motor runs hot.

After looking through the diagrams what he said sounds like it should work good. I have most of the other wires figured out with only 1 or 2 I will have to address when doing the install. Anyone got a vss?