so i read through all the posts in the rover section and everything else the intraweb has delivered unto me via google (tis my bish)... so anyway, my t-case will not engage low range once it is hot... when the engine and case are cold like when i first fire up, i can get it to go into low... once she warms up well then no good... changed the fluid in it last night (and stripped the threads on the drain plug) but to no avail... anyone had this problem or know of a solution that does not involve a new 100000000000000000000000 dollar t-case...:confused:

I wouldn't think it's anything internal or expensive if it engages cold and works fine. Check the lock-out solenoid, and check over the linkage.

What he said.

Worst case, if you do need a new tcase they are not $10000000000.

www.car-part.com

Or I have one from a 98 D1 I'll sell you for $200.

cool... tomorrow i will be workin on the rover all day... i got new lights for the roof rack and i am gonna try to tackle the transfer case issue too... its just one of those things that annoys me since it works and then it doesnt... if all else fails, where are you located with the 98 t-case?

+1 on the high/low lock solenoid (seen lots fail). If the t-case won't even shift to neutral, then that's a really good indicator the soleniod is failing. The solenoid is under a cap on the top of the t-case held in place w/ 4 8mm head bolts in front of the parking brake.

The easiest "fix", is to toss the solenoid completely (the manual trans rovers don't have one at all, so I feel it's safe to remove entirely). Remove rear driveshaft & parking brake assembly, and you can reach the cover bolts. It's a tight fit - although you can remove the pass side motor mount for slightly more access - or both tran/t-case mounts and lower whole unit carefully a few inches (make sure to remove upper fan shroud & intake air tube).

The easiest "fix", is to toss the solenoid completely (the manual trans rovers don't have one at all, so I feel it's safe to remove entirely). Remove rear driveshaft & parking brake assembly, and you can reach the cover bolts. It's a tight fit - although you can remove the pass side motor mount for slightly more access - or both tran/t-case mounts and lower whole unit carefully a few inches (make sure to remove upper fan shroud & intake air tube).

Depending upon the truck and its use, it can be easier and faster to go through the top to get at it. If the truck is a dedicated wheeler and has no interior, I much prefer to go through the top.

A big gob of silicone for the groove where the wires run and you're done!

Not only did the manual trans trucks not have the lockout solenoid, the '87 & '88 Rangies didn't have it with autoboxes.

Depending upon the truck and its use, it can be easier and faster to go through the top to get at it. If the truck is a dedicated wheeler and has no interior, I much prefer to go through the top.

A big gob of silicone for the groove where the wires run and you're done!

Not only did the manual trans trucks not have the lockout solenoid, the '87 & '88 Rangies didn't have it with autoboxes.

just before i sold my 95 disco, i had to remove the solenoid...for the life of me, i couldn't figure how i was supposed to access the tcase "from the top". i had the entire tunnel pulled apart.

so i took my shears and cut a 5x5 access hole just above the tcase, pulled out the culprit, rtved the wire holes under the little plate that held the solenoid in, cut me a piece of 6x6 aluminum, pop rivet, replace carpet.

done.

just before i sold my 95 disco, i had to remove the solenoid...for the life of me, i couldn't figure how i was supposed to access the tcase "from the top". i had the entire tunnel pulled apart.



Some of us have it, some don't!:p

I did AFI's from above and it still had carpet and an interior in it at the time. If I'd known what it was gonna end up looking like, I wouldn't have been as careful!