what do you guys think of this idea?

Take a stock motor mount, cut off the studs, and drill a 7/16" hole all the way through. put the mount in place, and slip a 7/16" bolt through from underneath (looks like there is plenty of room to angle a bolt in there). tighten a reasonable amount. Should provide a good measure of vibration isolation, but will never disinetegrate to the point where the engine fan kisses the radiator.

Even if there's not enough room to slip a bolt through, the head can be cut off and the whole bolt threaded with a die.

Am I missing something here, or will this work, as I think it will, especially on a rig that's not driven on the road?

Alex...this has been done before and is a nice way to get yourself home if you have no extra mounts after a failure...I can remember one person doing this but I believe with a 3/8 bolt...the bolt ended up bending. With the larger size you are suggesting and a new mount this may not be an issue. Report back...rover motor mounts suck.

why not just use a piece of all thread ?? instead of playing with your die set :evil:

A good'ol boy at a local garage puts motor mounts like this in his dirt track cars - he said he's NEVER had one break and he's running STUPID-big motors that get the tar beat out of them every Sat. Night!

That's what the PPR guys did in the car I'm running now. Maybe a different size bolt, I'll check. Seems to be holding fine in a car that was raced in XRRA regularly.

Some folks use hockey pucks.

For what motor mounts cost, is it really that big of a deal to replace them when they collapse? Also, will the fan hit the radiator if a motor mount fails? So far, all I have seen is that the engine slowly comes to rest with the exhaust manifold against the frame-side of the mount, making a horrible racket when making left turns.

And before anybody comments about the use of all-thread, if you don't buy it at the Ace Hardware, it IS available in grade eight.

Thanks for the comments guys. I think I'll give it a try.

PT--don't you think a bolt is preferable to allthread if one can be used (i.e. if it fits, which I believe it will)?

And as far as catastrophic motor mount failure, I've seen it a few times and experienced it myself. It sucks when all four go at the same time.

This has been done by more than a few people with no negative. You will be fine!

yes...bolt of equivalent grade will always be stronger than a fully threaded.

3" bolt seems to be just about perfect, and there's plenty of room in the frame mount to slip it in there. ideally the head would be at the top, but that's just not possible here.

Thanks for the comments guys. I think I'll give it a try.

PT--don't you think a bolt is preferable to allthread if one can be used (i.e. if it fits, which I believe it will)?

And as far as catastrophic motor mount failure, I've seen it a few times and experienced it myself. It sucks when all four go at the same time.

sold my 95 disco a few months ago...went wheeling in it with the dude that bought it and had all 4 go at once. made me realize what a pile of shit that set up was. really bad design. and yes it is a pain in the ass to change it out. it should "never" have to be changed. i don't believe in "wear" items. save oil etc.

land rover believes that axle shafts are "wear items".:flipoff2:

yes...bolt of equivalent grade will always be stronger than a fully threaded.

Not trying to be an ass, but why? Do the threads weaken the cap screw that much? Granted, better grade cap screws are not threaded all the way to the cap. Also, in the real world, would the difference in strength ever be noticed, especially in a situation like this where the bolted joint is under compression (I suppose the stresses are more dynamic than just straight down)?


PT--don't you think a bolt is preferable to allthread if one can be used (i.e. if it fits, which I believe it will)?

And as far as catastrophic motor mount failure, I've seen it a few times and experienced it myself. It sucks when all four go at the same time.

Not necessarily do I see it as a good thing, having bolts on both ends might make it easier to take out, perhaps if the bolt were to bend...

went wheeling in it with the dude that bought it and had all 4 go at once. made me realize what a pile of shit that set up was. really bad design. and yes it is a pain in the ass to change it out. it should "never" have to be changed. i don't believe in "wear" items. save oil etc.

land rover believes that axle shafts are "wear items".:flipoff2:

Aaron, I have replaced the motor mounts on at least three trucks in the last year and none of them were wheeled. One of them had the manifolds against the frame mounts on both sides and the transfer case was dangling. No wonder it made noise going around corners.

Sorry to hear you sold the '95, it really was one of the best year's, IMO.

[QUOTE=PTSchram;9059486]Not trying to be an ass, but why? Do the threads weaken the cap screw that much? Granted, better grade cap screws are not threaded all the way to the cap. Also, in the real world, would the difference in strength ever be noticed, especially in a situation like this where the bolted joint is under compression (I suppose the stresses are more dynamic than just straight down)?


Paul..in this scenario...may or may not make a difference...I use fully threaded and partially threaded screws daily in my line of work and I can tell you that a partially threaded screw will always be stronger...core of bolt is larger...strength is prop to radius to the 4th..as well as having less of a stress riser through the shaft...These motor mounts are cyclically loaded and subject to tremendous shear forces...if given the option only have thread where you need it. The difference in strength will only be noticed when it fails...not to say that it will however. Dan

Well call me a redneck, but what i do is wrap up a bit of old seatbelt round the mount, with holes to pass the protuding treads, one of the holes elongated slightly, so you can tighten it up before doing the nuts up tight. The belt gets sandwitched both sides of the mount. This is my cheap insurance against the engine moving about if the mounts let go, this will only prevent the engine from moving but if done tight enough it might even give the mounts a fighting chance of surviving. Mine have been like that for years, no failures since this mod.

Grem

Any reason why the QT super duper mounts aren't in consideration? (other than the $...did I miss something?)

Yep, $$$$. Why spend money when I can use what I have with a slight modification with the same end result?

Yep, $$$$. Why spend money when I can use what I have with a slight modification with the same end result?

Agree...to think of it, remanufacturing something similar to the QTs should cost you close to nothing....

Also, I believe that they are the same mounts as the Jaguar old V12 engines...which, last time I checked (2006) weren't THAT bad...

For that matter, why not just find a piece of round stock, cut to the same dimensions and either tap, or drill and bolt in place? A solid disc will never fail either and we've effectively reduced, or eliminated any vibration dampening by the use of a through bolt. Some of the folks whpve shelled out the big bucks for the QT mounts have commented about additional vibraiton, but it's a small price to pay if you're that worried about motor mounts failing.

OTOH, for the price of aftermarket motor mounts, all of this is kinda silly (but I am gonna go cut some discs of steel this afternoon!).

Alex, I've been wheeling with you when you had a couple of motor mounts fail-back when I actually got to go wheeling :flipoff2:

Man, those were the good ol' days, wheeling with you, Ali, Boris and Alan.

I thought about it, but I figure since I have no body mounts, I should have a bit of vibration isolation. The through bolt will provide more isolation than a solid mount... somewhat more anyway. and I'm not sure if I'm going to give the tcase mounts the same treatment or not. Right now I'm thinking I'll leave them alone. If the front is semi-solidly mounted, even if the back lets go the drivetrain won't go anywhere...

at least that's the plan for now. in five minutes it may change. :flipoff2:

badlands in may?

in five minutes it may change. :flipoff2:

It sounds like you've been talking to Gary!:D

badlands in may?

No promises, but even I might be able to make it with that much advance notice!:smokin:

badlands in may?


No promises, but even I might be able to make it with that much advance notice!:smokin:

Y'all talkin' badlands, Attica IN or the real BL?

Is there a landy event in May? Or in informal gathering of Rovers? I'm close to Attica and wouldn't mind seein' some others' rigs.:smokin:

Its the PBB LR forum annual rally. paypal $100 registration fee to me please.

Kewl!

Sorry, I sent all my money to some prince in S. Africa and I'm still waiting on that to come through. Come to think of it, it seems a little late. :homer:

Some folks use hockey pucks.

For what motor mounts cost, is it really that big of a deal to replace them when they collapse? .

this isnt about waiting for them to collapse...its about crawling rock and tearing them apart.

I think I have 4 spares in my kit these days and I can change them in about 15min each with a bottle jack.

I like the execution alex I may have to do some of those up for mine.

I'd never run them with the bolt on metal-metal like that.

I would run them with another half a mount for rubber cushion on each side. This will give you some extension cushioning instead of them rebounding hard against the bolt.
That and you need some guide to stop the threads from wearing on the mounts.

Personally I run softer mounts (industrial AV mounts in 3" dia by 1.5" thick with 10mm studs).
Because they're softer they don't get ripped apart, they're also cheap (around $US10 each).
Sure I'm using them to hold down a big angry diesel (400kg motor, plus gearbox is way heavier than landrover items) with a lot of torque.

They survive my usage, so they should handle yours fine.

I don't know...You may not have seen the extreme stupidity I put my car through. you might just change your mind if you did. I'm more concerned with the drivetrain not shifting than I am with vibration dampening (alhtough its nice to have).

we'll see how it goes.

Seems like the hocky puck or a slab of poly-razmataz lopped off some 3" bar would be the way to go. I would double nut it so you don't have to torque down, precompressing whatever material is used. Don't need much vibe isolation with a well running RV8. Definately don't need the isolation offered by the shit rubber in the stock mounts. Just like the MGB ones. Damn things.

Years ago, my drag cars had no rubber in the motor mounts, or the spring bushings for that matter...

Maybe just bolting solid pieces of steel IS the way to go.

And Thom, again, you live in a world I can only dream of. I no longer bother even trying to remove the nuts, blue speed wrench all the way for me.

And Thom, again, you live in a world I can only dream of. I no longer bother even trying to remove the nuts, blue speed wrench all the way for me.

I'm just saying that if you crawl rocks with the stock mounts they tear.

I guess the reason I dont have problems swapping them is they are not often coming off after being on there a super long time.

but then again the ones on the motor swap I did this weekend just spun off like no big deal to...maybe I just live under tyhe right star.:grinpimp:

I'm not denying that between frame flex, severe angles, heavy torquing agaisnt sometime immovable obstacles won't take its toll on the motor mounts, I was addressing the less than easily accessible location and amount of torque needed to remove them once they have rusted in place after a few midwest winters. Once the rubber parts, unscrewing the nuts is damned near impossible and the blue speed wrench is the way to go.

I've made a pair of solid motor mounts. Now to decide, do they go on my truck, or AFI's?

not for me but thanks I have a plan of my own :smokin:

So far...just this past year, I think...the jaguar v12 mounts that I stuck in are still in one piece.

They are a teeny bit taller, so I had to raise the fan shroud. No biggie.

KAA

i'd be careful if I were you PT. you could vibrate all the rust out of your frame, and as we all know, that's all that's holding it together.

i'd be careful if I were you PT. you could vibrate all the rust out of your frame, and as we all know, that's all that's holding it together.

Tell me about it! I've got to get SWMBO's LWB and Shopboy's '93 SWB going. The LWB needs a transfer case, the SWB needs to be finished after being rebuilt from a crash.

If the "Perfect Storm" happens this week, I might have another SWB and this one might be my new wheeling rig. It'll be quite an adjustment if it happens, I've been wheeling a Disco for so long!