Hi there

I am helping my cousin install his new R&P's on his XJ.
Front Dana 30 and Rear Chrysler.

While fitting the new ring and pinion i am having a problem with the ARB pin.
The new ring gear ( Rear Crysler 4.1 i believe) is thicker and blocks the hole where the ARB pin needs to go.
Has anyone of you faced this?
Anything wrong with the installation ?

Pics attached describing the problem:

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/jayfrem/Karim%20Diff/DSC01563.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/jayfrem/Karim%20Diff/DSC01566.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/jayfrem/Karim%20Diff/DSC01568.jpg

Please advise what need to be done.

This Jeep is overseas in Lebanon but i guess this diffs should the be the same.

Appreciate any help/insights on this.

Thanks a lot.

You have to grind the tops of the interfering teeth down.

You have to grind the tops of the interfering teeth down.

These are brand new gears.
Is it somthing normal when fitting these R&P ratios on the XJ diffs ?

Will the same be needed when done on the front ?

Thanks a lot

Yep, front too. A Dremel with 60grit sanding drums does the trick.

yup..its nothing specific to XJ axles though. you either need a notched crosspin, or to grind down a tooth or 2 on your ring gear.

ive done it a couple times on different axles, and usually can get away with only having to do 1 tooth, just dont get into the gear pattern and youll be fine

I have not had to notch the teeth on the front of a d30?? Only a c-clip rear..
8.8, 12 bolt, c clip d35.

yup..its nothing specific to XJ axles though. you either need a notched crosspin, or to grind down a tooth or 2 on your ring gear.

ive done it a couple times on different axles, and usually can get away with only having to do 1 tooth, just dont get into the gear pattern and youll be fine

x2

or you can buy a fancy notched pin like mentioned

I don't know about ARB but with the Lockrite I installed in my D30 I just unbolted the ring gear slid the pin out, installed the locker, slid the pin in, and then bolted the ring gear back up making sure to bolt it back up in the same spot on the carrier.

I don't know about ARB but with the Lockrite I installed in my D30 I just unbolted the ring gear slid the pin out, installed the locker, slid the pin in, and then bolted the ring gear back up making sure to bolt it back up in the same spot on the carrier.

This isn't a good idea when installing gears because if you do it right, you need to make sure the ring gear is fully seated on the carrier. Its important to install the ring gear CLEAN onto a CLEAN carrier surface (not to mention dry) to insure the best possible friction surface. Also, you need to check the run out on the ring gear. This can be done in the housing, but it definitely needs to be done. You may also run into the issue of the ring gear not sliding back on the carrier properly because of larger gears and the tight fit. If you got it done, good on you, but I'd have to say its WAY more of a hassle trying to do it that way rather than grinding down a tooth or two....or hell, shelling out the 40 bucks it is for the ground down pin.

straight from ARB:
http://dedq15.mindfly.com/uploads/PDF/onlineManualsGuides/5-06.pdf

This isn't a good idea when installing gears because if you do it right, you need to make sure the ring gear is fully seated on the carrier. Its important to install the ring gear CLEAN onto a CLEAN carrier surface (not to mention dry) to insure the best possible friction surface. Also, you need to check the run out on the ring gear. This can be done in the housing, but it definitely needs to be done. You may also run into the issue of the ring gear not sliding back on the carrier properly because of larger gears and the tight fit. If you got it done, good on you, but I'd have to say its WAY more of a hassle trying to do it that way rather than grinding down a tooth or two....or hell, shelling out the 40 bucks it is for the ground down pin.

I did not notice this was for the 8.25 so you have to move the cross shaft to install the c-clip. For this case I would follow the ARB instructions to grind the teeth.

On my Dana 30 I had the carrier out, cleaned and dried by using a towel and brake clean, ring gear bolts torqued to spec with loctite, etc... everything you would do to install new gears. Worked great for me and everything was about the same as when removed and well within specs. Not to much of a pain in the ass and I did not have a grinder small enough to feel comfortable using on my ring gear.

On my Dana 30 I had the carrier out, cleaned and dried by using a towel and brake clean, ring gear bolts torqued to spec with loctite, etc... everything you would do to install new gears. Worked great for me and everything was about the same as when removed and well within specs. Not to much of a pain in the ass and I did not have a grinder small enough to feel comfortable using on my ring gear.

Good to hear! At least thinking out of the box a little!

The new ring gear is thicker because it is a higher ratio (higher numerically). As you go higher, the pinion head gets smaller which in turn needs a thicker ring gear to mate to it.

You have to grind the tops of the interfering teeth down.

Yes, grind the top edges of the offending teeth down, it will not affect strength, your gears should be meshing in the center of the tooth, not in at the tips.

Just use your regular hand grinder and only take off what is needed. Once ground clear, hit it with a sanding disc to take out any grinding marks and sharp edges.


Yep, front too. A Dremel with 60grit sanding drums does the trick.

I have not had to notch the teeth on the front of a d30?? Only a c-clip rear..
8.8, 12 bolt, c clip d35.


The Dana 30 front doesn't need any clearancing of the ring gear teeth.


yup..its nothing specific to XJ axles though. you either need a notched crosspin, or to grind down a tooth or 2 on your ring gear.



x2

or you can buy a fancy notched pin like mentioned

No one makes a notched center pin for an ARB, nor is it neccessary, just grind the teeth and you are done.

OH and if anybody suggests it, DON'T even think about grinding the center pin. It is case hardened, if you grind through the case hardening, you will be into soft metal and it will cause all kinds of havoc that will mess up the Air Locker big time.

The Dana 30 front doesn't need any clearancing of the ring gear teeth.

Sorry, It does. Had to grind mine down to get pin in.

Sorry, It does. Had to grind mine down to get pin in.

why didn't you take the ring gear off?


pull bearing caps, pull case, pull ring gear off, install cross shaft, re-install ring gear, install case, install bearing caps, install axle shafts, dif cover, add oil, go wheeling...

the c-clip axles need it done to install the axle shafts...

Way too much work just to install a lunchbox locker.

Sorry, It does. Had to grind mine down to get pin in.

I had better clarify... in reference to ARB Air Lockers: You do not remove the pin on an ARB Air Locker to install it or to install gears into a front Dana 30. Since you do not need to remove the pin, you will not need to clearance any teeth to get it to fit back in.

frankz...its not a lunchbox locker..its an ARB. 2 completely different animals.

and if the original poster would just 2 what everybody has told him to do, its really a 10 minute job depending on what tools you use

frankz...its not a lunchbox locker..its an ARB. 2 completely different animals.

and if the original poster would just 2 what everybody has told him to do, its really a 10 minute job depending on what tools you use

Installation going well. I grinded the tooth a little.
Thanks a lot for the help here.

Jay