chris fresh
11-30-2008, 03:24 PM
started building the triple sticks for my 203/205 combo.built a bracket to fit the backside of the 203 case with a side piece to build off of.drilled that and welded in a 5/8 bolt for the pivot point.local hardware store had some 7/8 i.d steel spacers and some bronze bushings that fit,wich were 5/8 i.d that would go on the bolt smoothly.cut some 3/4 round stock to staggered lengths so the knobs would clear each other.,drilled and tapped for 3/8-16 threaded rod to attach the knobs. (jc whitney/j##p section,20 bucks each). welded the 3/4 stock to the spacers,hammered in the bushings and then slid them on the 5/8 bolt.then for the links,had some 1/2 round on hand,drilled/tapped 5 1/6-24 to accept the hiem joints from my local supplier( 5.20 each). i drilled 5/16 holes thru the shift levers and used 5/16 clevis pins with cotter pins.on the t-case side i made a bracket to go thru the slot in the shift rail out of some 1/4x1'' stock,used pins there also.welded the 1/2 round to the bracket.2 things i'm very happy with,one is nothing rattles,two is the operation from front to back is super smooth and a positive feeling in your hand.
also fabbed up my cross member for the back of the 205. used some 2x4 box,1/4 wall from side to side,made some pockets on the frame rails with factory style g/m bushings.used 1/2 plate machined out to clear the snapring on the rear shaft and the factory holes in the tail housing,now i'm going to replace those bolts with recessed flat heads so the rear retainer can go on,just have to clock the retainer a little so i can mark/drill/tap.even gaining the thickness of the 1/2 plate,theres still plenty of room for the retainer/seal with the yoke bottom'd out.couple new gaskets and some rtv and things should be fine
also fabbed up my cross member for the back of the 205. used some 2x4 box,1/4 wall from side to side,made some pockets on the frame rails with factory style g/m bushings.used 1/2 plate machined out to clear the snapring on the rear shaft and the factory holes in the tail housing,now i'm going to replace those bolts with recessed flat heads so the rear retainer can go on,just have to clock the retainer a little so i can mark/drill/tap.even gaining the thickness of the 1/2 plate,theres still plenty of room for the retainer/seal with the yoke bottom'd out.couple new gaskets and some rtv and things should be fine