OK, so I'm gathering pieces and parts to put Bronco gears in my 77 CJ D20. I thought you just used the low range gears from the Bronco case, grind away, call it good. The only discrepancy I can see right off is one of the Bronco gears has a different sized shift fork seat, while the other gear will fit the stock CJ fork fine.
So I go looking around on the web, and all I can find is Nutter's writeup where he just uses the 33 tooth Bronco sliding gear and all the rest is Dana 18 stuff. What gives? Are there two ways of doing it? I can get a Dana 18 for about 50 cents anyway, just wondering.
Also, doing a twin stick at the same time- anybody got a link to a good writeup on that? Time is running short and I don't need to reinvent the wheel.

Oh, yeah an Atlas II would be way cool, but tricking out this POS Dana 20 is gonna cost me about 40 bucks and some time, so shaddup. :flipoff2:

Try a search..pretty sure this has been discussed.


Just curious...why don't you get a Dana 300 and a 4 to 1 kit for your CJ. Much cheaper than an atlas. :D

Yes there are two ways to do it. If you have the entire Bronco case that has the correct sliding gear then you have the parts that Nutter scrounged out of the Dana 18. I've done both procedures with the exact same result.

For the twin stick see if you can find a Scout Dana 20. Swap the shifter housing from the Scout case onto the Jeep Dana 20 and any Dana 18 twin stick setup will just about bolt right in. Some of the early Scout Dana 20's had factory twin sticks.

The write-up I read (and archived somewhere) used all Bronco parts, and they cut n' spliced the Dana 20 lower half of the shift-fork to the Bronco Dana 20 upper half.

I'll second the cut-n-splice on the shift fork. We attempted to heat and open up the original fork, but lost the temper in the metal and it got really soft. Not knowing what it was, we were reluctant to attempt to re-heat treat it and just cut it off and welded on the fork from the EB.

Put all that in a Scout case with twin sticks and it's been working fine ever since.

2.03 to 2.46 is a noticeable improvement.

Funny you mention, I had just come to the conclusion that the fork was going to need a splice-job. Everything else looks the same, or at least the same enough to work.
7018 on the fork, or should I bust out the Ni-Rod?

I know this is on the wrong forum, oops.
And "why don't I just run a D300?" because I already have the T-18 adapter on. If you want to give me another $380 for 300 adapter, mess with the driveshafts, and swap out the tranny mainshaft, come on down. :flipoff2:

What's with all this cut-n-weld, heat-n-bend shift fork crap?? I did the conversion with all jeep parts except the rear slider gear from a bronco and I didn't swap or modify my forks. What gives?

It looks like if you use all Bronco gears, instead of just the rear slider, the Jeep shift fork does not match the Bronco gear on the front output. So you mate the Bronco fork to the CJ fork.

hey guys I've been out of the jeep loop for a bit.. trying to get my 1975 cj6 in trailable condition.. I'm not looking to rubicon it I just want to have a solid 4x4.. I understand there is a gear lowering kit for my Dana 20 but 800 bux is high for me can i do it cheaper?
I'd rather use elbow grease then empty my wallet.. from reading this thread I gather there might be a way?? :)

I appreciate the help.