Hey guys. First off I searched and can't find anything....

Question is regarding a 2002 Disco II.

I just had a new 4.6 short block installed, the t-case swapped for one that was CDL capable and a D1 CDL lever (among many other things like gears, lockers, etc.). When I went into the shop today to check on it, my guy told me he had a problem with a stuck key. Sure enough I hop in and the wheel won't lock and key won't come out. Tried it in Park, in Neutral, CDL locked, unlocked and in Neutral, foot on the brake at all times, etc. The key appears to be in the right position and the door chime activates when the door is open like it should to warn the key is still in the ignition in position 0. The truck is on the hoist though and wheels not touching the ground, but I can't see that being a problem. Oil is in the motor but the water pump doesn't arrive until tomorrow so the coolant is not in yet, otherwise I would have started it and turned it off. I did put it forward until all the dash lights were on but that did not help?

Could swapping the T-case and CDL lever have caused a problem here? Motor? Fuse problem??

Damn it's Tuesday already. The cdl and case swap won't make your key stick.

Make sure you are all of the way in park.
Does it make a clicking noise when you depress the brake pedal?

Damn it's Tuesday already. The cdl and case swap won't make your key stick.

Make sure you are all of the way in park.
Does it make a clicking noise when you depress the brake pedal?

I'll check tomorrow on the brake switch. Usually that same switch also allows the Parking lever to lock and unlock right? It does provide that function now. The lever locks into park and only unlocks and shifts when the key is on and the brake is applied. The console was apart to add the CDL lever though. I looked at the Rave manual and it talks about a solenoid in the Transmission shifter and something about adjusting it. I'm going to look into that. Also, the tech had mentioned something about a relay or sensor being damaged on the T-case I put on. I think he said it's a two prong plug that provides the signal to light the dash indicator when the CDL lever is locked. He said it should work as it was simply wired in to provide power but maybe that could also be causing something. I read about a T-Case solenoid too. I'm going to look into that next. I'm also going to have him charge my batteries. I have dual optimas but they have been sitting. Lights and everything work but voltage could be too low for the BCU.

I put this moron on my ignore list on DWEB, guess he found his way here too...

I put this moron on my ignore list on DWEB, guess he found his way here too...

Well you're on my ignore list too. AND I put you there first. Besides, I thought this place was a little different than Dweb, and the mods actually kept things on track instead of letting people like you screw up threads by correcting spelling and interfering with legitimate questions and answers. Maybe I was wrong. Time will tell.

oh Sheldon is crying again...:flipoff2::flipoff2:

Well you're on my ignore list too. AND I put you there first. Besides, I thought this place was a little different than Dweb, and the mods actually kept things on track instead of letting people like you screw up threads by correcting spelling and interfering with legitimate questions and answers. Maybe I was wrong. Time will tell.

This thread shows how clueless you really are. Pull the starter leads and cycle the key. If that doesn't work and the brake switch is good, more than likely it's not going all the way into park.

By the way...FUCK OFF

At the risk of being flamed for this, knowing the theory of operation is a really good way to start toward solving these issues.

Now, the real question is, why the fawk did you take your truck to someone who clearly does not know Rovers? I don't go to a urologist when I've broken a leg, why take a Rover to a shop that doesn't know fawk-all about them?

You get what you pay for and I get paid to fix these fawk-ups.

for crying out loud
get a copy the ETM and find the right wire and cut it = key comes out :eek:

I think you got the wrong oil in the t case you need to drain out the fluid in you t case that might be whats at fault :grinpimp:

for crying out loud
get a copy the ETM and find the right wire and cut it = key comes out :eek:

I think you got the wrong oil in the t case you need to drain out the fluid in you t case that might be whats at fault :grinpimp:

Don't know why I'm being nice
To this asshat but that works on a d1 but wreaks havoc with the alarm ok a d2

ok I'll be nice and do your fawking work for you

connector/pin no. C0671-1, O/W wire, cut the wire and connect it to connector/pin no. C0671-2, B/LG. This will bypass the key capture solenoid and still satisfy the BCU that it is receiving the key position information.

(content provided by AFI, transcription services by PT-we know from Rover alarms :flipoff2:)

Frank:
AFI says you need to have your dick kicked in the dirt and that you're a fawking idiot :flipoff2:.

Well the key came out on its own today for some reason. Not sure why. Didn't try disconnecting the battery as I've read about, but did read about the interlock solenoid or whatever on the top of the T-case. I know that can get you stuck in park, but not that it makes the key get stuck. I appreciate the info though and will pass this on to my guy. I hope to get my truck back on the road tomorrow.

As for mechanics, the only option here is the dealership. 600,000 people in this city but only one dealership. Closest one other than this one is Minneapolis and that's 10 hours away and across the border. They have one tech and my vehicle there for a total of three months of 2007 for warranty work to get the rad replaced, some engine seals, power steering pump replaced and maybe a couple of other things. 3 weeks it sat for the power steering pump alone. Now that warranty is up I'll take it anywhere but there. If you know of someone else who specializes in rovers in a reasonable drive from my place, I'd be happy to pay him the $150/hour the dealership charges just to get my truck back in a reasonable period of time.

This thread shows how clueless you really are. Pull the starter leads and cycle the key. If that doesn't work and the brake switch is good, more than likely it's not going all the way into park.

By the way...FUCK OFF

Hey dude. I don't claim to know everything about Rovers. I'm not a mechanic. I make my money how I make it, and choose to spend it, how I choose to spend it. Why is that a guy has to wrench his truck himself to be an acceptable rover buff to you guys? I do what little I can, but I have two kids and am a single father, run a business and don't have time to fix my own shit most of the time. In most cases I'm better off to take care of business and pay someone else. Many times I have no choice because I'm too damn busy. What little time I have to play I don't want to do it fixing my truck. I want to use it. My kids would agree as we have a great time backwoods camping, fishing, off roading, hunting, going to ATV rallys and shit all with my truck when it's not freaking broken. What's it to you? So you can build trucks. Good for you. I appreciate and respect your knowledge. I really do. But please don't trash me because I choose to make my living doing something else that does not involve building or working on trucks.

I don't go to a urologist when I've broken a leg....

What if it was your third leg? LOL

ok I'll be nice and do your fawking work for you

connector/pin no. C0671-1, O/W wire, cut the wire and connect it to connector/pin no. C0671-2, B/LG. This will bypass the key capture solenoid and still satisfy the BCU that it is receiving the key position information.

(content provided by AFI, transcription services by PT-we know from Rover alarms :flipoff2:)

Frank:
AFI says you need to have your dick kicked in the dirt and that you're a fawking idiot :flipoff2:.

He didn't say to splice it back to the bcu, he said just to cut it. Big difference and with this moron he'd probably start a electrical fire somehow..so :flipoff2:

He didn't say to splice it back to the bcu, he said just to cut it. Big difference and with this moron he'd probably start a electrical fire somehow..so :flipoff2:

I wouldn't do either. I don't trust myself enough with shit like that. I'd get someone else who even remotely understands this shit to do it. :grinpimp:

He didn't say to splice it back to the bcu, he said just to cut it. Big difference and with this moron he'd probably start a electrical fire somehow..so :flipoff2:


shall we discuss electron theory or hole theory ?? I am willing to talk about either.

Also, cutting the wire would have gotten the key out. The goal was to remove the key, cutting the wire would have allowed this.

He didn't say to splice it back to the bcu, he said just to cut it. Big difference and with this moron he'd probably start a electrical fire somehow..so :flipoff2:

Frank:
He knows more about Rovers than the vast majority and when I get stumped with electrical issues, HE is the one I call.

He's a degreed electrical engineer. I think I can trust his electrical knowledge.

...and, JUST like Dweeb, the thread goes on and on and on
When it never should have started to begin with. :shaking:

friggin new guys

The only thing that makes this thread like Dweb is the off topic replies (just like yours), thread jacking and personal attacks made by the same people that do the same crap there. This was a legitimate question and there were some productive responses which I appreciate. You could choose not to reply.

Frank:
He knows more about Rovers than the vast majority and when I get stumped with electrical issues, HE is the one I call.

He's a degreed electrical engineer. I think I can trust his electrical knowledge.

I'm one too... just cutting the wire would just get the key out, but cause other issues. Correct?

I'm one too...

Explains a lot!:flipoff2:


just cutting the wire would just get the key out, but cause other issues. Correct?

Yes.

(check your PMs!)