This is from Billavista's drive line article.
It shows the wider 1330 having less max angle than the 1310.
Than it shows the wider 1410 having more max angle than the 1350.
I'm confused. Does a wider U-Joint give more angle or less?

Edit:
Tech added with pictures. Post 10 describes my problem and post 20 the solution.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/DL.jpg

Must be somebody on this board smarter than me that can answer this.

i think you will find a lot of answers here, tons of driveshat and u joint info.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/frequently_asked_questions.html

i think you will find a lot of answers here, tons of driveshat and u joint info.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/frequently_asked_questions.html

Nothing there thats answers my question.

This is from Billavista's drive line article.
It shows the wider 1330 having less max angle than the 1310.
Than it shows the wider 1410 having more max angle than the 1350.
I'm confused. Does a wider U-Joint give more angle or less?

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/DL.jpg

Has to do with the yoke design more than the joint itself.

Those numbers are correct, it has to do with the width of the caps vs. the length across the joint.

That chart is correct for many applications except for the fact that the 1410 shown requires a flange setup to get that much (you can get even more angle as well). If it is the more common yoke to yoke application you will be using, the actual angle for the 1410 is around 27 degrees with a 22 spline yoke, 24 degrees with a D60 yoke.

The wider span of the 1410 generally gives more angle because the caps can travel further before hitting into the opposite tube yoke or pinion nut. There are special applications out there, like the 1350 stuff we run, that go VERY far, but if you are comparing bone stock to bone stock, the 1410 gets a lil more but with tradeoffs of extra weight and bigger diameter tubing, which in many applications are things you will need to consider.

On all apps, there are bigger angles possible...we get over 45 degrees on our 1350 stuff, but that's pretty extreme.

That chart is correct for many applications except for the fact that the 1410 shown requires a flange setup to get that much (you can get even more angle as well). If it is the more common yoke to yoke application you will be using, the actual angle for the 1410 is around 27 degrees with a 22 spline yoke, 24 degrees with a D60 yoke.

The wider span of the 1410 generally gives more angle because the caps can travel further before hitting into the opposite tube yoke or pinion nut. There are special applications out there, like the 1350 stuff we run, that go VERY far, but if you are comparing bone stock to bone stock, the 1410 gets a lil more but with tradeoffs of extra weight and bigger diameter tubing, which in many applications are things you will need to consider.

On all apps, there are bigger angles possible...we get over 45 degrees on our 1350 stuff, but that's pretty extreme.

Thanks Dustin
Now it's clear as mud.

The measurements shown are traditional yoke on the axle or t-case for the 1310, 1330, 1350, but are the flange style on the 1410. It's apples to oranges as a comparison in that chart.

Apples to apples, using yokes on the 1410, the measurement is either 27 or 24 degrees, which is very diferent than 37 degrees.

In your case, what do you need? What are you running as for horsepower, where are you driving, street use or trail only, diffs, t-case, that kind of stuff. All of those things can help others help you.

In your case, what do you need? What are you running as for horsepower, where are you driving, street use or trail only, diffs, t-case, that kind of stuff. All of those things can help others help you.

OK I need to get more specific. I thought I could ask a simple question and get a simple answer. Silly me.

So here's the deal.
I have a YJ, street legal but mostly used for rock crawling. It has a Dana 44 in the front. At full droop the front drive line yokes at the diff end hit each other.

The U-joint is a crossover. 1310 on the drive line and 1330 at the diff.
I was wondering if I put a 1330 yoke on the drive line if I will get more angle before it hits.

I know I can put a limiting strap on it but I hate to give up the flex.
Probably my best solution though.
I also know I can grind off the inner C's and rotate the diff up but I don't think thats worth it for the little gain.

Thanks for the help.

How badly is it hitting? Can you do a lil lovin with a die grinder and carbide bit to the yoke area it is hitting? OR, is it hitting the pinion or pinion nut? We've even taken a die grinder to those just to clearance them for a little more droop. Mind you, there's a line to draw about how much material you can remove, but if it's just a little, it's not a bad solution.

Next, if the joint has bound at all, replace it before you continue to wheel. It's already been stressed, no sense in taking a risk.

Can you snap a pic of the yoke on the pinion??? I may have a solution if it's a certain yoke.

Can you snap a pic of the yoke on the pinion??? I may have a solution if it's a certain yoke.

Pix
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/DSC02201.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/DSC02202.jpg

You're gonna love this...that's a short yoke. We can fix this with the deep yoke that is still a spicer part. You'll gain a bunch.

(909) 629-9002 ... ask for Jim or Scott. They have the part on the shelf and it's not a spendy one compared to what you were considering going through.

You're gonna love this...that's a short yoke. We can fix this with the deep yoke that is still a spicer part. You'll gain a bunch.

(909) 629-9002 ... ask for Jim or Scott. They have the part on the shelf and it's not a spendy one compared to what you were considering going through.

I love it.
Thanks a bunch.

lucky you, sounds like an easy and cheap fix. I find that is rarely the case.

Dont mean to hijack the thread but is this 'short yoke' common? Sounds like lots could benefit from the 'deep yoke' if the 'short yoke' is on alot of the common axles.

Thanks

Talking to Jim Reel, he said that it is totally year dependant. I didn't ask what years or which is more common, but he made it sound like both were common. He says he keeps a bunch on the shelf because it's a common part people are needing.

Talking to Jim Reel, he said that it is totally year dependant. I didn't ask what years or which is more common, but he made it sound like both were common. He says he keeps a bunch on the shelf because it's a common part people are needing.

I called today and was told the longer yoke was made only for the Jeep Rubicon.
He said they didn't have them and that Spicer no longer sells them.
I will have to go to the Jeep dealership to try and get one. $$$$$

In a couple hours, when Dallas finally wakes up, I'll call him to ask if we still have one.

Regardless, even if you end up paying a lil more from the dealer, it'll still be less $ and hassle than many of the other options. That yoke you currently have is too shallow even for grinding, if you want to get much out of it.

Here's how I solved the problem.
First, trying to get a Rubicon yoke from the local Jeep was not a pleasant experience.

I called Tom Woods custom drive shafts (http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html) and they said the Rubicon yoke may not help much.
They suggested their Super-Flex U-Joint but I would need to change to a 1310 Pinion Yoke. Well I was looking at buying a new yoke anyway so no big deal.
But the u-joint is kind of pricey($60). So for a little over $100 I got the parts.

The first thing I noticed is the difference between my old yoke and the new one.
In the first picture the new 1310 yoke is on the left and the old 1330 on the right. They are the exact same length but a lot more clearance in the new 1310.

The next picture shows my old set up. About 20 deg. angle.
The third picture shows the new yoke with a standard 1310 U-Joint. About 27 deg. This gives me plenty of angle.
The last picture shows the Super-Flex joint. About 42 deg.

So I'm gonna run the Super-Flex and leave the standard 1310 on my spare.


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/Yokes.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/1310-1330.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/1310.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z41/bigtyrs/SuperFlex.jpg