Just bought my first Diesel last night. Question, and maybe this is stupid, but what RPM do you guys run yours at around town? I redline at 3500 and it doesnt seem to like driving over 2K as much. With that in mind, I am shifting at 2 and running it around 1200-1500 on the street...that puts me in 4th at about 30-35 mph <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Am I just learning to drive this bad boy or should I run it higher? Thanks...and sorry if this sounds "Newbie" <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

depends on the truck fords need a little more rpm than dodges. you will be short shifting compared to gas motor rigs. you will get the hang of it. in my 93 dodge 4x4 with 4.10s i would start in third and go to fifth in most of my driving when unloaded. all the torque is down low and it seemed easier that way. just dont try to rev the hell out of it. mike

Yep, 2K and Newbie <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Its a Dodge. NV4500 tranny with 3.55's I been starting in 2nd and short shifting up form there so far.

Mine's an auto, so I don't have to shift it.

But, it probably won't like 3500 very much.

Mine with 4.10 gears really likes 2200-2300
on the hiway. puts me at around 65-70mph.
much more than that and the mileage goes
away..

Low RPM's is what diesel's like.

Originally posted by JeepinIan USA:
<STRONG>Low RPM's is what diesel's like.</STRONG>

How low? Under a grand?


Oh yeah.....hey Rick....I got somethin for ya!
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<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> Dick! <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Keith Strong ]

<IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> going up this weekend? under a grand is low, their range is about 1-2.5k

and <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Cant...gotta move me this weekend. <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> My rig is down too.

Originally posted by Keith Strong:
<STRONG>Cant...gotta move me this weekend. <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> My rig is down too.</STRONG>

not for long. I'm working on it! Quit rubbing it in! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Loppy:
<STRONG>not for long. I'm working on it! Quit rubbing it in! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

:rub::rub::rub: <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

I ran a fleet of F450's and they all seemed to like running around 2k. I've luged the eng down to 500 and still pulled off w/ ease. All that's w/ loaded service trucks.

My powerstroke likes to live in the 1k-2k range. I tend to shift it low on normal driving and it pulls well. However, when I want to toast a little ricer, I run it up to the full 3200 or so and give him a facefull of diesel exhaust.

-John

Cool, thanks guys. Any tips for maintenence? I feel like I am learning about cars all over again <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Is it 12 valve or 24 valve?
My 24 valve seems happiest between 25 and 28.
Belive it or not I get better mileage between 28 and 3K

Its 24 valve...not the HO though

How Much??? where Did you Buy Becuase Im' gonna Get One Real Soon !
Expedition Is Going BY BY!!!!!!


<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-03-2001: Message edited by: Adam Ant ]

Got it in woodland...Truck was only $28k but I had to throw in a little more cause we were buried the mustang we traded in <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0"> I can hook all you guys up with the guy, he is a friend of mine, I work with his wife.

Originally posted by Keith Strong:
<STRONG>Cool, thanks guys. Any tips for maintenence? I feel like I am learning about cars all over again <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I reccomend doing an oil analysis on every oil change. In the fleet I ran we changed oil every 3000 miles, and the fule filter at the same time. The oil sample was drawn, with hot oil, and sent to the lab. You would be surprised what goes on in the engine.

If you do oil samples, remember you are looking for trends. Generally one oil sample won't tell you very much unless the engine has some serious problems. I do not know how much they are in your area, the comany I work for charges the public $10 a sample, if you buy in quantity, the price gets less. Most independant oil labs like to get a sample of unused oil that you are putting in your engine so they have something to go by.

As for the coolant, be sure to use a diesel additive and keep it up to date. You can get some serious damage due to cavitation. cavitatiojn in diesels happens due to compression firing, you can't stop it from happening. When the fuel/air mix fires, the cylinder walls vibrate, causing air bubbles. The bubbles implode and the coolant hits the cylinder walls at supersonic speeds. This causes minute pits in a cooling system that does not have the proper additives. The additives in diesel coolant are self sacrficing. They form a layer in the system that protects the cylinders walls. When the bubbles implode, the coolant hits this layer and does not damage the outside ctlinder wall. This layer is constantly being renewed until the additive package is depleted.

Make sure you do not have any stray voltage going thru the coolant. Anything above .3 volts can kill the additive package in as little as 8 hours of use.

If you got any other questions, let me know.

PS, I was an ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Tech ( I let it lapse because I now do database design), and I have worked, and still do, for the Caterpillar dealer here for the last 7 years in the service department. I schedule the PM's for customer's, read the oil analysis reports, and let the customers know what is going on with thier machinery.

Keith, check out http://dodgeram.org/ram.html
and http://turbodieselregister.com
both have a huge amount of info on the Cummins <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I know what you mean about feeling like you're re-learning everything.. its a bit different alright.. but I doubt I'll ever go back to a gasser as a hauler.

BOMB that bad boy <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by JeepinIan USA:
<STRONG>I reccomend doing an oil analysis on every oil change. In the fleet I ran we changed oil every 3000 miles, and the fule filter at the same time. The oil sample was drawn, with hot oil, and sent to the lab. You would be surprised what goes on in the engine.

If you do oil samples, remember you are looking for trends. Generally one oil sample won't tell you very much unless the engine has some serious problems. I do not know how much they are in your area, the comany I work for charges the public $10 a sample, if you buy in quantity, the price gets less. Most independant oil labs like to get a sample of unused oil that you are putting in your engine so they have something to go by.

As for the coolant, be sure to use a diesel additive and keep it up to date. You can get some serious damage due to cavitation. cavitatiojn in diesels happens due to compression firing, you can't stop it from happening. When the fuel/air mix fires, the cylinder walls vibrate, causing air bubbles. The bubbles implode and the coolant hits the cylinder walls at supersonic speeds. This causes minute pits in a cooling system that does not have the proper additives. The additives in diesel coolant are self sacrficing. They form a layer in the system that protects the cylinders walls. When the bubbles implode, the coolant hits this layer and does not damage the outside ctlinder wall. This layer is constantly being renewed until the additive package is depleted.

Make sure you do not have any stray voltage going thru the coolant. Anything above .3 volts can kill the additive package in as little as 8 hours of use.

If you got any other questions, let me know.

PS, I was an ASE certified Master Heavy Truck Tech ( I let it lapse because I now do database design), and I have worked, and still do, for the Caterpillar dealer here for the last 7 years in the service department. I schedule the PM's for customer's, read the oil analysis reports, and let the customers know what is going on with thier machinery.</STRONG>


what he said change the oil and the fuel filter every 3000 miles, keep the air filter clean, they like to breath easey.
my 91 F-250 likes to run around 2200rpm , it is non-turbo 7.3ltr, little guttless on the hills ,but I will buy nothing else in the future other than a Diesal, the only thing is it will have a turbo

One thing that is good information from oil analysis is that they will recommend what mileage intervals you can go to between changes. I use Blackstone labs for analyses and they initially recommended going longer than 3,000 miles between oil changes as most of my miles are highway. They didn't know about the highway miles though. The analysis is what said the interval could go longer. I now go 4,000 and have an analysis done every third oil change. Cavitation isn't really an issue with the Cummins engines since they have a wet sleeve. If cavitation does erode the cylinder walls a new sleeve goes into the block. It is more serious with a Powerstroke because the entire block requires replacement. Dodge doesn't even have a coolant additive recommendation (that I'm aware of). Also, changing the fuel filters regularly is a great idea, but every 3k miles is a bit extreme. Changing every 10k is more realistic and will still be a good interval. I have been running Ford diesels since 1985 and haven't have a stitch of trouble with any of them with regular maintenance. Still have the '85 6.9 that I started out with and it has 240k on the original engine. Of course it doesn't get much use anymore since the '97 Powerstroke gets the nod now.

Captivation is not a problem on the Cummins engine. The block on a Cummins does not flex like a powerstroke.

Originally posted by fj40charles:
<STRONG>Captivation is not a problem on the Cummins engine. The block on a Cummins does not flex like a powerstroke.</STRONG>

Flex has NOTHING to do w/ cavitation and pitting of the cyl walls.

As for the Cummins having wet sleeves, that's well and fine, but why not use an additive so you don't have to replace the sleeve until rebuild time?

We are also the dealer for LinkBelt cranes, which have Cummins engine in them and we use all Cat fluids, including the coolant and additive package.

As for extending the oil changes, I would reccomend, after a couple of oil samples have been taken, extending it 500 miles for 3 more samples, making sure the readings sre good, until you get to the first one that shows the oil is either degrading, has too much soot (viscosity will increase), or the additive package has been depleted.
PS, don't forget to let the turbo wind down before you shut the engine off. You can cook the turbo bearings otherwise.

Kick ass....thanks guys. On the oil change...the manual <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> says two different schedules... one says 7500 miles and the other say if on dusty conditions, lots of towing, etc every 3750. Well, since I live down 2 miles of dirt and plan to tow weekly at least, guess that answers that <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> What about mods? Air intake? Exhaust? I want BIG horsie power and some serious ass torque <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Course, I want it for free too <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Keith Strong:
<STRONG>I want BIG horsie power and some serious ass torque <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> Course, I want it for free too <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I've heard nothing but good reviews about the Banks powerpack for the cummins. A neighbor of mine has it and he's got around 300hp and 750lb/ft. Its not free but if I had a ram w/ cummins I'd buy it. I also have a friend who got a 2002 F-350 dually with the powerstroke and he has a chip in it. It will run 0-60 in like 10 seconds or something like that. Its pretty amazing to ride in with that much acceleration from a 1 ton truck.

Is that banks pack a chip or what?

Originally posted by Keith Strong:
<STRONG>Is that banks pack a chip or what?</STRONG>

Keith,
The Banks crap is WAY overpriced. Talk to www.tstproducts.com (http://www.tstproducts.com) and you can thank me later. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> After you get done we can have a little drag race so I can school you in the ways of the oilburners, and I won't even use the propane! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by RokHeep:
<STRONG>Keith,
The Banks crap is WAY overpriced. Talk to www.tstproducts.com (http://www.tstproducts.com) and you can thank me later. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> After you get done we can have a little drag race so I can school you in the ways of the oilburners, and I won't even use the propane! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I agree, STAY AWAY from banks unless you have DEEP pockets. Edge Comp is the way to go IMO. You really need to spend some time
HERE (http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/) if your serious about tinkering with your Cummins. You'll be glad you did <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
HVAC (http://www.performancediesel.net/)(Nowel) is a great source of info. He is in Half Moon Bay I think.

Dennis

Keith,

If you're considering Bombing (better off modified baby) your Cummins, go to www.turbodieselregister.com (http://www.turbodieselregister.com) and see some of the posts. You can join and get some great info and also get some discounts for being
a TDR (turbodieselregister) member. Well worth the $35.00 per year. I would not go the banks route since their stuff if very expensive and customer service is questionable. I would go the PowerEdge EZ or Comp. route and put in some injectors. Be sure to get some gauges (fuel pressure, EGT, and boost) to monitor you motor.

Charles

Thanks guys. What about air intake? Exhaust? Will those make a big difference or is a chip my best bet?

Keith,

It really depends on just how much you want to BOMB your Cummins. If you stay with a mild fueling/timing box like PowerEdge EZ and some mild injectors (RV 275's or Diesel Dynamics Stage1) you should be able to get away with a stock intake and exhaust. Of course, a 4 inch exhaust will allow the turbo to spool up faster and produce lower EGTs (exhaust gas temps). If you really want to go wild, then I would consider additional modification to the intake/air filter housing and bigger injectors. The best source for this info. is Turbodieselregister.com

Charles

Dude, and you were worried about infomation... jeeez. POR has a bunch of Diesel Junkies! Wish I was one. Just one ride in Keith's truck and I'm freak'n SOLD! Diesel is the shit!

I've got a 92' cummins with the 12 valve engine..... a very good mod to do to this truck regarding longevity is to install a Racor fuel filter, it'll keep the pump alive a lot longer, and they're very common and easy to find elements... standard on most industrial Diesel engines.......

as to the reply about letting the turbo spool down, its more of a matter of letting it cool down before shutting it off. when worked the diesel builds heat and idling they cool down, its the heat that causes the coking so if working it hard be sure and let it idle a few minutes before shutting it down. on my power stroke and the co. ones i have run i change oil every 5000 mi and the fuel filter every other oil change and have run them in conditions you will never ever see in your truck. the 2 miles of dirt road you have to travel wont affect your oil changes. just keep a clean air filter in it

The first mod I would do to a cummins rig is cut the muffeler off, it will be the coolest sound you ever heard, it is loud, but not the kind of noise that would make a cop mess with you, just makes it sound like a D8. and if you roll up the windows the sound goes away, after cutting off the muffeler, you can notice the power difference right away, and it got me ~1.5mpg

What is the skinny on that coolant additive??? I heard about it a little but never followed up, and I dont see much over at TDR about that. Do Cummins need it??? where do I get it????? is it a common thing at Kragans????

"I Love the smell of Diesel in the moring!"

Originally posted by Diesel Junkie:
<STRONG>What is the skinny on that coolant additive??? </STRONG>

In the fleet I ran, I used the coolant and additive from Caterpillar.
There are a couple of choices in diesel coolant. There is a regular coolant and an extended life coolant.
The extended life does not have to be changed as much and does not need the additive package as much.
The problem with the extended life coolant is if you dilute it with regular coolant, or add too much water, it looses all its extended life properties.
I have heard that Texaco makes a coolant for diesels as well.
Be sure to use colant test strips, not just the hydrometer test on the coolant as it will give you better results.

Keith,

Head over to http://www.turbodieselregister.com/index.html and start reading. I got all the info I could ever need there.

I have modded my brothers 01 Ram Cummins, BD stage 2 chip, 4 inch BD exhaust, 2 inch level kit with 35's. Propane kit should be here next week.

Before you get to crazy order the 2 or 3 gauge pod and get a boost and EGT gauge.

A great place for guages, pods, coolant additives and test strips, and lots of good info is Diesel Injection Service in Texas. Their webpage is www.dieselpage.com (http://www.dieselpage.com) . I buy all of my fuel filters and coolant additives from them.

I just bought a 01 Dodge diesel and all this info is great. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">