Ok, so with this 'newest' '94 LWB, there is an interesting symptom that I think I have boiled down to 2 things.

The symptom is that on full lock the wheels chirp on pavement.

I had considered either a binding CV joint, or a viscous coupling that is bound up in diff-lock.

I went to the dealer today and had them look up the service records, and yes indeed the PO had complained about the same thing, so they pulled ONE of the CV's out and inspected it and replaced it. Cost? About 500-600 bucks with labor. There was no mention of looking at or replacing the other side.

So, I'm thinking it's NOT the CV and it IS the BW.

I have a spare LT-230 sitting up in Washington that I am planning on the part-time conversion on. Maybe I should just forget about the part-time and slap it in the LWB?

Jeff, how hard was that conversion, honestly? I have all the linkages, etc...and doing the driveline mods won't be that painful. I'm just wondering about the project as a whole.

Any other advice/thougts/suggestions????

BTW, the truck has 98K on it, and is running the ORIGINAL tires!!!!

Woah. Can you say BALD!!!!!

I'd attatch a pic, but you all know what a bald Michelin 205 looks like.

BTW, for those of you looking to do a 100 points concours restoration on a RR Classic, I have the spare tire, tool kit, etc... and none of it has been touched EVER since day one. For sale....cheap.

Like looking at a time capsule.

lol those tires must be pretty bald man...

can you see the steel belts yet?

they're gettin' there.

I'm waiting for my BFG Krawlers.....

Mike,
or Adam W. I suppose this applies to you as well.

The conversion was easy. Only two thing gave me a hassle.
First was the parking break linkage. The drum from the BW is a direct bolt on. Only one bolt hole is different, and it is already predrilled into the backing plate. The linkage for the cable is different though. If your LT230 has the PBrake on it you are fine, if not, you can kustom (the K was intentional) modify the BW linkage arm to fit the LT230 by drilling and tapping an unused boss. I did it (drilling and tapping) after I installed the case. I would recommend doing this out of the truck though, as I got the geometry off a bit, and so my break cable is a bit “long”. As a result the brake lever in the truck doesn’t always hit the switch that makes the idiot light on the dash go out.

The second issue was the center consol. This needs to be widened for the side to side diff lock action. This can be done at a later date. I actually wheeled mine a few times before I fixed it. The only issue is that on rough trails the jostling puts pressure on the shifter from the consol and disengages diff lock. And yes it can look nice. (I'll get some pics)

Other than that it is really a matter of a floor jack and some wrenches. I would budget a weekend for it, as long as the chit chat/beer drinking is kept to a reasonable amount.

-Jeff

On the subject of the new BFG's My neighbor has a line on some, and was telling me that the rubber compond is soo soft and supple, that it is kind of like "memory foam" in that it will hold an inprint, ie: traction. He also said that he would not want to run them on the road as they would wear out way too fast.

-Jeff


BTW Mike did I ever Email you pics of his jeep, its almost done.

nope you didn't. send away!

Jeff,

Thanks again for all of the information. Serious one, you know that you will eventually dump the BW unit, so might as well do it now. I know that you need very little convincing to do the mod. Just do it (there, that should be enough). Where did you get your shift linkage from? Have a source for some more? ;)

Here is the newbie question of the year. How do I tell if my LT230T on my garage floor has the parking brake linkage. I have not yet figured out what everything is on the t-case yet. Flame away! I suspect that it is internal? If not I really do not think that mine has it.

Way

as we all know by now, finding an LT-230 isn't the hard part. It's the linkage that's the Holy Grail.

Honestly I can't remember where I got my linkage and/or my t-case. It just kind of showed up with my stuff magically (yeah right eh? :flipoff2: )

The linkage I had a friend get for me during a raid on a junkyard in CA, and the t-case I purchased used in Portland. It had the e-brake and the linkage, which I can't remember what it looks like right now.

Briggs is the renowned expert on the transplant, having done his almost in secret while the rest of the Portland gang was busy working on more 'important' stuff. Little did we know....

So, Way, your question is better off tossed at Jeff, and I'll just sit back and listen.

Yeah, I know I need to do the conversion, but the t-case is in Portland, and I have no way to work on trucks here in Vegas until about the 3rd week in Sept. So, the transplant will have to wait.

In the meantime I am considering removing the front driveline in an attempt to save the CV's from any significant damage.

So, where is he? Bueller? Bueller?

Here's a lil' shot I took in Cedar of Schaeffer's rig.

I don't know if any of you guys have seen the video of them doing this little maneuver, but it is impressive. Oh yeah, the tires made all the difference!

Adam,

If all you have coming out the back of the backing plate is a rod with a hole about 2” long then you don’t have the linkage. I’ll shoot some picks tonight for the mods of the BW linkage.

As for the 230, the round plate with three bolts on top near the front output is the diff lock. The barrel shaped piece on top of the center of the unit is the High/Neutral /Low lever. Ill see if I can track you down the linkage. (as Mike put it the Holy Grail, so think Monty Python…coconuts, coconuts are tropical, this is a temperate zone) Oh and another thing, the drive flanges from the BW will mount to the 230.

-Jeff

It appears that I am missing the selecter lever for the diff lock along with a washer and a self locking nut. As for the High/low cross shaft and lever it appears to be complete.

As far as the flanges go, it appears that I am missing everything form the bearing spacer out (e.g. bearing spacer, output shaft bearing, criclip, oil seal, output shaft flange and mud shield, felt washer, steel washer and the self-locking nut). But if the BW stuff fits, then maybe all ofthis will transfer and I will not need to source it.

I have attached a picture so people that are not looking a t a unit on the floor know what I am talking about.

Way

From my manual it shows a bolt is supposed to go here, but does not give specs. Does something attach here? Can I go to the local bolt shop and throw a grade 8 in there, or is it something weird? What is the function?

Way

Drain plug hole I assume. I don't see this in the manual of mine. Damn...I am feeling like a complete dumbass right now. Maybe later you can walk me through how to put on an OME lift kit! LOL....

AW,

The missing bolt near the h/l lever is the breather. Same setup as a rover axel breather, I think the BW one transfers over....Im pretty sure, but not positive. As for the "drain plug" bolt I think mine was missing as well. I stole the BW temp sensor and threw it in there. I think it is above the fluid level so it really isn't going to tell you if its hot, but it keeps fluid from gushing out. One more thing. Replace the imput seal. It may be brittle, and for $8 a new one is cheap insurance. Oh and smear a little grease on it so that it will seal against the imput shaft. Otherwise it could cook the new seal.

-Jeff

PS ill havesome pics of the pbrake linkage tomorrow. I shot them this evening, but I dont have the camera interface software at home. (work camera)

Thanks Jeff for all of the information. It is rreally suprising/amazing how much really transfers!

I take it that the one I have doesn't have the P-brake linkage and I will need to fabricate. Can't wait! NOT. Next week I plan on checking all of the Junkyards in the springs to see if I can find a wrecked Disco I can steal from. But...I am not too hopeful. Look forward to the pics!

Way

Get me a good pic of the pass side of the case and I'll diagram out what I did for the P brake.

-Jeff

Originally posted by Serious One
Ok, so with this 'newest' '94 LWB, there is an interesting symptom that I think I have boiled down to 2 things.

The symptom is that on full lock the wheels chirp on pavement.

I had considered either a binding CV joint, or a viscous coupling that is bound up in diff-lock.

I went to the dealer today and had them look up the service records, and yes indeed the PO had complained about the same thing, so they pulled ONE of the CV's out and inspected it and replaced it. Cost? About 500-600 bucks with labor. There was no mention of looking at or replacing the other side.

So, I'm thinking it's NOT the CV and it IS the BW.

Any other advice/thougts/suggestions????

like.


take a look at http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ then click "viscous coupling", it tells how you can see if yours is knackered. sounds more like a VC than the Cv joint, as that would give a 'grabbing' type of wheel lockup.

Jamie

Adam,

I have my x-fer case out for the ZF swap so I took few images so you can see what the linkage, ect looks like.

Johnathan

#2

#3

Jamie,

Thanks for the Ashcroft page. You seem to know where the random important information is, that's for sure.

Tisdale,

come on down to Vegas and help me do an R&R of the BW! It looks like you know what you're doing!

Way,

In the short term I think what I'll do is take the BW out of the SWB RR (it has 250K on it and still hasn't failed) and put it in the LWB RR for now. The long term plan would be to put an LT-230 in there when/if the 240K BW unit fails.

The pics of the different t-cases are cool BTW.

Thanks for the pictures!!!!!!! Here is a pic of the P-side of case. It is much easier to see where things go with the pictures that you guys supplied. It is amazing how if you aren't around other different rovers how your knowledge isn't very broad.

Jeff, received the p-brake linkage pics in my email. Thanks.

Way

Keep the pics coming as I too will be doing this swap shortly! What's the advantage with the "T" suffix vs other suffixes? My LT230 came out of a '88 RRC.

Thanks.

Going from memory here but the "T" version has bigger gears and regular case. The "Q" version (stands for quiet supposedly) has a thicker case but ever so slightly smaller gears. The gears are burly as hell, so don't think of one as too much of an advantage to the other. The thicker case dampens noise, and is probably a little tuffer to crack the case, however very few people have ever been able to break the cases, although there has been a few occurences mentioned floating on this board.

Now to make a small correction for you. A "suffix" is a word that is the opposite of the well known and commonly used word "prefix" in the english language.

The "T" version is not the suffix but rather an identifying "tag". The suffix (the last letter in a box SN#) tells about the internal stuff. For intance my box number is 28D377231E. The 28D tells me it is out of a disco and the E tells me the part numbers my case most likely has, if I ever need to replace gears and such.

The "prefix" on your case is probably something like 30D. The prefix is used to determine what the box came out of, if you do not know. For instance, the D90 people have either a 20D, 22D, or a 33D. The Disco people have a 28D (mine has this) or a 34D. RR Classics has 14D, 15D, 20D, 26D, 27D, and 30D.

Hope this clears up the confusion.

Way

Thanks Dr. Way :eek:

Sorry for the diarrhea of the mouth. Teaches me not to get drunk ans start typing....LOL..

Way

Originally posted by Way
not to get drunk ans start typing....LOL..

Way

"ans", wow you even slur when you type!!!!

:flipoff2: