hi there,

i did use the search function :D an thus know that only the tracker's front gears can be used on the sami, and that they are either 4.62 or 5.13....

however i have a doubt: I will be running a lockright upfront pretty soon in the 4 pin carrier... and run the same setup in the rear axle

so, what has to be done: get 2 front tracker's ring an pinon gears, take out the gears and bolt them to the SAMI 4pin-carrier? .... anything else? what about the "can" that is sold or the shims? are those necesary or is it bogus?

thx in advance,
alfred

Buy the shim and can, do it right although I have heard people not using them. Im not exactly sure what is holding there pins in the carrier though.

For my 5.13's i used a shim and a metal ring about half an inch wide that slides over the carrier, held it in place with a bit of RTV. However, i found with the 4.62 gears not bein so far a spread from the stock gears, i didnt need the shim, works great. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Titanium
For my 5.13's i used a shim and a metal ring about half an inch wide that slides over the carrier, held it in place with a bit of RTV. However, i found with the 4.62 gears not bein so far a spread from the stock gears, i didnt need the shim, works great. :flipoff2:

do I understand you right? you used the front tracker gears on the orig. sami 4-pin carrier ... and just have to buy those rings/shims that hold the pins in place?

again, thx
alfred

i USED THE CENTER CHROME WHEEL CAP FROM MY RIMS TO GO AROUND THE PINS. CUT THE TOP OFF OF THE CAP AND POUND IT ON. VERY SNUG.

why do you need that shim?
i have the 5.13 in since 3 years, and none of the pins ever fall out.
it is not possible - if you try it you will see it.
only con is the ugly noise coming from the pins, so i was afraid that they could fail - but they did not.

what i could not read anywhere that you need to modify the housing a bit to get the 5.13 in. i did it with a hammer and it worked perfectly.

The 'can' does two things. It keeps the pins from sliding around and 'whacking' the ring, but it also keeps the pins centered in the carrier. Remember centrifical force? When the pins get slung out against the ring it throws off the center of balance and can lead to premature bearing failure. Cheap insurance...
And yeah, the 4.63 gears don't really need a shim, but the 5.13 gears are best installed with one. Otherwise the adjustment gets too far to one side and you run the risk of running out of adjustment before it is set right.
...just my .02

Originally posted by Rockrat
Buy the shim and can, do it right although I have heard people not using them. Im not exactly sure what is holding there pins in the carrier though.


when i find a set i'm not using the shim, and to hold the pins in i'm just going to put a bit of weld on it........... it won't go anywhere, my diff will be re-welded again soon so i don't gotta worry about movement......:flipoff2:

Like said a few posts ago, you dont need the shim but for the5.13's, the adjusters are adjusted way in as compared to the stock gearset and this is kinda hard on side bearings. As far as the 4-pin goes, sure, you dont need a ring either , but has anyone looked at the little block in the carrier that holds the pins in place ? Take a look at it and you'll agree that holding them in place would be more reliable. I BROKE THE LONG PIN IN MY SAMI CARRIER !!!! so i'll hold them in place, thank you. And MudMagnet, if your carrier starts to crack it will begin where you weld the pins to the carrier. Elastic band, believe it or not, would be better (you play hockey, dont you MM ?) :flipoff2:

actually no i don't, although i know people that play "ice" hockey all year round........... :flipoff2:

but what does that have to do with the carrier?????:confused:

Originally posted by mud-magnet
actually no i don't, although i know people that play "ice" hockey all year round........... :flipoff2:

but what does that have to do with the carrier?????:confused:

Get one of those big fawkin elastics off one of your hockey buddies and wrap it around the 4-pin instead of welding them :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

would that actually work??? or would the gear lube deterate(SP) the rubber?????:confused: hmmmmmmmm?????

Originally posted by mud-magnet
would that actually work??? or would the gear lube deterate(SP) the rubber?????:confused: hmmmmmmmm?????

No doubt, it probably would deteriorate the rubber but for good measure my diff comes out once a year anyways, i swab the housing, check the bearings, replace the pinion seal and check rear axle bearings. The first diff i welded started to crack at the pins, so i warn you. BTW, try a can out of the pantry, i heard you might be able to make one fit, i got a ring cuz some clown gave it to me in hopes of me doin a gazillion dollars worth of work for him, kept the ring and eventually told him to get the fawk out, just as everyone else has done, lol, later. :flipoff2:

does anyone actually have the specs for the can?
ID and OD? and height?

just a heads up for every one i got a chance to mess around witha set of Randys gears it had a small ring tack welded to the ring gear kinda the same consecpt as any of hte other CAN'S just a lil diferent form




:massey:

a coffee can will work

Originally posted by godzuki
a coffee can will work

Do you have the specs on a coffee can :flipoff2:

I can't help but notice, that the other gear ratio's have not been mentioned, like the 4.30's and the 5.83's. I think there are also some 5.38's out there somewhere.

Originally posted by Bobzooki
I can't help but notice, that the other gear ratio's have not been mentioned, like the 4.30's and the 5.83's. I think there are also some 5.38's out there somewhere.

I think thoes are the two factory ratios......................................:D

sorry 4.62,5.13 were the ones I was refering to...........:D

Originally posted by mudlite


Do you have the specs on a coffee can :flipoff2: i think it was a folgers de caf.

Originally posted by mudlite


Do you have the specs on a coffee can :flipoff2:

Coffee can too big, maybe a chunky soup can will work :flipoff2:

titanium your right i was thinking about a tracker rear third member(woops)

Originally posted by bobaki


I think thoes are the two factory ratios......................................:D

4.30 is the factory ratio on some California Automatics.

DUDE!!! Just dig in your wallet a little deeper and spend the $35 for the retaining can from TT.

Just a couple days ago I was looking at a stock Sami front chunk and a Kick 5.13 front chunk. Had them sitting side-by-side and was comparing, trying to see what the fawk was up with the spacer and pin-can requirement. I gotta tell ya, I can't see with my non-calibrated eyes any difference in the thickness of the Sami 3.73 ring and the Kick 5.13 ring. Also, there is already a spacer present between the Kick carrier and the Kick ring gear.

the only trouble i had when i built the highbred rear end is i needed the spacer cause i didnt buy the lockers with the new side gears so without the spacers the locker would pop and slip .so i took them out and welded each side of the spider gears then put them back. theres a lot of people said they wouldnt work like that but it has so far i sold the rear end and he is still beating on it with 33 tsls. the can held the pins in

Bobzookie ,didn't know that,not to old to learn..............:D

Originally posted by Slinky
I gotta tell ya, I can't see with my non-calibrated eyes any difference in the thickness of the Sami 3.73 ring and the Kick 5.13 ring. Also, there is already a spacer present between the Kick carrier and the Kick ring gear.

I do believe the difference is in the carrier for the most part, not necessarily the ring gear itself BUT the 5:13 pinion is way smaller than a 3:73 so this alone will require adjustment, then you have the carrier difference.