Heres my new axles:

Toy 4.3 centres std rot rear and rev rot front

30 spline jac mac axles with Range Rover 23 spline CVs with 10 spline outers.

Ill see how the outers go and may chnge to 110 CVs but at least the 10 splines will be the fuse in the front.

Heres some pics. I just got the axles today.

The first one is of the axles with a 10 spline front on the bottom and a 24spline maxi axle at the top.

Sam

30 spline compared to a 24 spline maxi

30 spline with a stuffed d44 30 spline. These are the same size

toy centre with limited slip hemisphere

Uh...Sam? What are you doing?

Where's the 60?

Where's the Rockwells?

Where's the 14 bolt hybrid?

Sam?

--D

Originally posted by RockRover
Uh...Sam? What are you doing?

Where's the 60?

Where's the Rockwells?

Where's the 14 bolt hybrid?

Sam?

--D

Yeah sam, what he said!! WTF?

You goin yota on us?

why bother with the little axles with your big tires?

-John

std rot rear and rev rot front

i think he said that these were for another rig.

i wanna do the same in the range rover but with alloy 30spl warns throughout in front and CTMs.

Last one

The rear housing with the toy centre. Still got the open up the spindles a bit tofit the axles. And i got to do a bit to the front housing where the seal goes to fit the 30 spliners.

Now all I got to do is build a rig to put them into :D

Sam

Yea - these are for a drive/tow rig and not for my buggy. Still doing the d60/d70 thing with a BW T18 and lt95 but Im think this will be finished first. Already got the rig a 2 door rangie which has been cut into a style side ute just got to bob the rear, get some 35in MTRs and throw in these axles with twin limited slips and traction control and Im driving.

The d60/d70 will be full locked.

Ive seen the light.

Sam

got pics of the range rover?

For those interested the axles cost me $1320AUS and It ended up costing me about $650 for the toy centres with limited slips at both ends with the 4.3 gears and a rev rot front. So all up Ive got about $2000AUS in these things which is about the same as a maxi drive locker complete for the rear.

Ive come to the realisation that I need a rig that I can drive on the road and still wheel and this is going to be it. These axles and some 35s should go fairly well but i can imagine that I will end up with some 37s when they eventually come to oz and then I will probably be back to busting CVs but hopefully not.

9V Ill go and take one now.

Sam

Heres a pic of my ute. The white roof is actually the one that was on my hybrid when it was a tray back rangie.

Sam

nice rig! and im sure you got a killer deal on it too... :D

Sam,
By any chance do your drive shaft flange work out for you? i have heard that some early toy flanges are the same as the rover ones but i have not found any yet.

Drew

Originally posted by Strange Rover
For those interested the axles cost me $1320AUS and It ended up costing me about $650 for the toy centres with limited slips at both ends with the 4.3 gears and a rev rot front. So all up Ive got about $2000AUS in these things which is about the same as a maxi drive locker complete for the rear.

Ive come to the realisation that I need a rig that I can drive on the road and still wheel and this is going to be it. These axles and some 35s should go fairly well but i can imagine that I will end up with some 37s when they eventually come to oz and then I will probably be back to busting CVs but hopefully not.

9V Ill go and take one now.

Sam

Sam,

I have come to the same realization on the axles. This post is exactly what I was looking for. I am thinking factory e-lockers though, and 4.11's. Colorado is 'Yota central next to California, so yard parts and aftermarket support is great. What's the availability of the fj80 High Pinion e-locker thirds down there? There are a couple of us that want to do this in Colorado, and it might even be cheaper for us to go through AUS if the price is right. The front's usually don't get broken up here, and most yards only sell them as complete sets for $1500.00 used. OUCH!

Once again, thanks for the great pics and information....:D

Originally posted by ciocc77


Sam,

I have come to the same realization on the axles. This post is exactly what I was looking for. I am thinking factory e-lockers though, and 4.11's. Colorado is 'Yota central next to California, so yard parts and aftermarket support is great. What's the availability of the fj80 High Pinion e-locker thirds down there? There are a couple of us that want to do this in Colorado, and it might even be cheaper for us to go through AUS if the price is right. The front's usually don't get broken up here, and most yards only sell them as complete sets for $1500.00 used. OUCH!

Once again, thanks for the great pics and information....:D

hey count me in too :D

i could use a pair of FJ80 thirds with lockers.

duuuuudeeeee

PICS!!!! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by green rover
Sam,
By any chance do your drive shaft flange work out for you? i have heard that some early toy flanges are the same as the rover ones but i have not found any yet.

Drew

No mine wont. I will just machine the rover size shoulder in the flange and redrill the rover pattern. The length of the toy pinion is 3mm longer than the rover pinion so drive shaft length should be the same.

Sam

Originally posted by ciocc77


Sam,

I have come to the same realization on the axles. This post is exactly what I was looking for. I am thinking factory e-lockers though, and 4.11's. Colorado is 'Yota central next to California, so yard parts and aftermarket support is great. What's the availability of the fj80 High Pinion e-locker thirds down there? There are a couple of us that want to do this in Colorado, and it might even be cheaper for us to go through AUS if the price is right. The front's usually don't get broken up here, and most yards only sell them as complete sets for $1500.00 used. OUCH!

Once again, thanks for the great pics and information....:D

I would guess that there wont be many here either but a will ask around.

Sam

Originally posted by Strange Rover


No mine wont. I will just machine the rover size shoulder in the flange and redrill the rover pattern. The length of the toy pinion is 3mm longer than the rover pinion so drive shaft length should be the same.

Sam

true but the toy pinion is also lower in the back and higher in the front so that will affect overall DS length.

you get those prices from mcnamara yet? :D

Originally posted by BJ On Roids
duuuuudeeeee

PICS!!!! :flipoff2:

Jeez BJ carnt you see im working :flipoff2:

Ive emailed them to you.

Sam

I did not have to change anything with the drive shafts the rover ones worked fine.

check your local toy dealer as i brought some new toy diffs 4.11 ratio and E. locker rev rot for around $900. came out of 94-97 land crusier.

Drew

Originally posted by Strange Rover


Jeez BJ carnt you see im working :flipoff2:

Ive emailed them to you.

Sam

thanks dude!! :flipoff2:
i know how busy you get all the time...sorta like me :flipoff2:

i heard kearneys bundera had some fun in your crab holes ;)

Originally posted by green rover
I did not have to change anything with the drive shafts the rover ones worked fine.

check your local toy dealer as i brought some new toy diffs 4.11 ratio and E. locker rev rot for around $900. came out of 94-97 land crusier.

Drew

Just found these at inchwormgear:

http://www.inchwormgear.com/

$765 with e-locker. (can be cable operated)

Ok, I follow what you are doing, and dont take this the wrong way, but what are you really gaining. It looks as though you get 30 spline axels, but that the diamater is pretty much the same as the 24 sline.

I guess the basis of my question is due to the fact that Im not fully up to speed with the toyota conversion pros&cons.

-Jeff

Originally posted by JSBriggs
Ok, I follow what you are doing, and dont take this the wrong way, but what are you really gaining. It looks as though you get 30 spline axels, but that the diamater is pretty much the same as the 24 sline.

I guess the basis of my question is due to the fact that Im not fully up to speed with the toyota conversion pros&cons.

-Jeff

I think that bsed in the axle diameters the 30 spline axles are 20% stronger than the 24 spliners. This would mean that with 36in tyres I would be the same strength wise as running 30in tyres on the 24 spline axles. So 20% is a fair bit stronger.

The biggest strength gain is front the ring and pinion. The toy centre is a hypoid setup as opposed to the rover spiral bevel. For the same diff gearing the toy pinion is about twice as big as the rover and would be about twice as strong.

The final argument is that the toy guys belt the piss outa their shiat with 38"+ tyres and dont break where as the rover axles struggle with 35s.

Sam

OK Guys. I don't like to appear ignorant, so I will just stand up and loudly proclaim my ignorance...

Are Toyota differentials interchangeable with Rovers?

Just as I was thinking it was safe to go with a Dana 44 in front, you throw this curve at me.

Peace,
Paul

Originally posted by PTSchram
OK Guys. I don't like to appear ignorant, so I will just stand up and loudly proclaim my ignorance...

Are Toyota differentials interchangeable with Rovers?

Just as I was thinking it was safe to go with a Dana 44 in front, you throw this curve at me.

Peace,
Paul

no, you need to redrill the bolt pattern on the housing.

and you DO gain a lot over the 24 splines. not only the diameter, but also the spline count. the toyota center is also A LOT stronger for the reasons sam mentioned. the other pro is the availability and cost of all the toyota components- gear sets down to 5.71 (but realistically 5.29) and a lot more options available for lockers.

quite frankly i think that a rover set up with toyota diffs and high strength axleshafts will not break on 38s so long as hp/torque are kept at a reasonable level.

I was under the impression that the toyota diff is a bit smaller making the spirale vs hypoid a wash. And dosnt they toyota pinion deck down a pit and use a smaller pinion bearing?

As for 20% larger, is that just at the splines? It looks like the spline diameter may be, but the shafts (from pictures) look pretty close. If you get a chance, or if you have written down some where what do the mic out to, both the splines and the shaft.

-Jeff

js,

here are the gains (in no particular order) :

Availability. You ever been in bfe, broke something, and needed it now? Got junk yard? Any, I repeat, ANY rear - v6 and up will work.

Gearing. STOCK 4.11 or 4.88, with 5.29 WIDELY available.

High Pinion Front. You gain 2" on the rover, your on the strong side of the pinion.

Durability. The R&P's are legendary. They copied the rover design (in the rear), and made it better. Stock they will take 35's with no issues.

Cost. You can get a rear e-locker, (which is easily convertable to manual, or activated with a frickin screwdriver) complete third member from a yard. That's diff w/lock, 4.11 or 4.88, and carrier for $500.00 from your local yard. Less for a standard (non-locker).

The only cost drawback is a set of 30 splines for the rear and 30 spline inners for the front.

Overall, if you are going to upgrade an early ten spline, you are looking at the following from a donor/new:

locker: 650.00 or 400.00
donor axles/flanges: 1500.00 - 2000.00
R&P: 500.00

Total 2400.00 for a front axle.

Third party toy e-locker front, choice of gearing and custom inner axles, with "no" setup i.e. bolt in with a few holes drilled:

1200.00

If you don't need the HP, (cv shafted) the cost is even lower.

DO THE MATH!

If you are not in the us, availability is a different issue. This swap makes little sense in the UK, but anywhere in the us, it makes total sense.

Is it as simple as laying a gasket on the face of the carrier and drilling the holes, or does one lay the Toy gasket on the rover housing and drill?

I'm off to the boneyard and then to the tire house for those 35s!

Paul

Lay the gaskit on the housing and then drill it.

More ignorance here.

After drilling the holes, is there enough meet to tap the housing for the studs? That's probably a stupid question-D'Oh. How do you think Rover did it Paul?

Yes, I'm fascinated by this possibility. I'm off to the junkyard!

Peace,
Paul

Newbie here trying to grasp this 'yota 3rd member swap onto a (1990) range rover. Speak - s-l-o-w-l-y :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

1 - Is the rover axle housing tapped with new posts to suit the Toy third member which then just bolts in, e-locker and all ? Or can I simply tap holes in the 'yota 3rd member to meet the existing rover studs ?

2 - There are no drive shaft or flange mods needed for the rear- again just bolt in and go ? Mods are not a problem - I just want to get an idea of what is invovlved to get it done right.

3 - Can I just take the rear axles from the Toy donor rear end and stick them in the rover axle housing tubes - same length ???: What about the outside end of the axle, does the flange come attatched like some rover axles or does the flange circlip on in which case, use he rover or a 'yota flangeIf not what length/ spline do I need to order ?

show this :clown: the light plz.

Originally posted by JSBriggs
I was under the impression that the toyota diff is a bit smaller making the spirale vs hypoid a wash. And dosnt they toyota pinion deck down a pit and use a smaller pinion bearing?

As for 20% larger, is that just at the splines? It looks like the spline diameter may be, but the shafts (from pictures) look pretty close. If you get a chance, or if you have written down some where what do the mic out to, both the splines and the shaft.

-Jeff

toyota axles dont neck down, same diameter all the way

if sam says they are stronger, then he is the man

he has both types side by side and has got lots of broken stuff down there.......

the conversion makes sense in australia too

mini trucks/hiluxes everywhere!!

The Toy housing locating shoulder is 1/8" smaller than the rover,s so its a center the diff in the housing by feel which is no biggie. We drilled the toy pattern by making a transfer punch to fit the toy holes and centerpunched the new pattern. You can either drill for the toy stud size which is larger and pull in from the outside of the housing or D&T holes in the housing for bolt in application which we did. If using the toy electric locker you will need to saw a rectangle out of the axle housing for the e locker and use 2 long stud bolts that go thru the e locker. Custom axles are in order to run from the 30 spline toy stuff to the rover outer stuff. The carrier brgs are much larger so therefore a stronger unit overall. If anyone will shoot me an email address I will forward a pic to post of the housing laying here in the floor. Drew is currently in the mother country(England) on a LR'er sponsered trip.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~Insert by OS~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

http://pics.montypics.com/Old_Scout/2002-08-22/toy_rvr.jpg
http://pics.montypics.com/Old_Scout/2002-08-22/toy_rvr02.jpg

-

Roverwrench - Thanks for the insight....- please send the pic to tallbrad@hotmail.com when you get a chance. I am hoping your pic will explain this 'saw a rectangle out of the housing' bit ...:p

Must be nice to be Drew right about now...

I am going to look at some junked land cruiser rear ends next Monday morning - and an old Warn 8274.

Any toyota year/ models to look for or avoid ?

Paul -

Here are more links on the housing mods and long bolts needed. What are your plans and what rover are you putting it in.. what kind of axles are you considering ?

http://home.off-road.com/~kemanuel/elocker/elocker.html

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/

Thanks for the posting the pics ...shiatty pics...but I think you can see the mods. The toy pinion flange needs to be drilled for the rover BC, but the toy flange is round so easy to do. The custom axle isnt necked and skimming out the hub is required, about .040 will do it. The axle is 30 spline to 23 spline for the 110 cv. It does make a nice "stealthy" mod.....

We welded up the holes of the rover pattern in the axle housing and 1 hole in the diff needs to be plugged as it is in the ring gear cut out in the rover housing. Tapping and plugging with a bolt works fine. Overall a simple mod.

Interesting axle brackets...care to elaborate on the specifics of what we are looking at? Doesn't look stock at all.

Way

Adam.......I believe you have been there....done that....

Come on Adam don't you know a 3-link when you see it? :D

Before you put that back together, now is the perfect time for weld-on pipe cap diff covers. That way the cover is just as thick as the housing.

-Jeff

that's the picture I was waiting for. Thanks Wrench.

Here's a :beer:


j

Looks like RoverWrench is way ahead on me doing this conversion. Great pics.

I just got back from holidays today and hopefully I can get into doing the rest of the axle setup next week and I will be sure to take lots of pics of how I do it and post then.

I will also take some measurements on the axle and spline sizes and also I should be able to take a comparison pic between the sizes of the toy vs rover pinions. The toy uses an 8in crown wheel and the rover a larger 8.5 inch. But the pinion size in the toy is much larger (cause it is an hypiod gear) so that for a given torque in the drive shaft the tooth contact force in the toy pinion is much less. This is why its stronger even though the crownwheel is a bit smaller.

Anouther way to think of it is a d44 crownwheel is 8.5 in dia and the toy is 8inches. So the toy crownwheel and pinion should be about 94% as strong as a d44 based on the ring gear dia. So the strength here is really good.

Sam

Tallbrad:
Thanx, we truly are "Shown the light in the strangest of places if (we) just look at it right".

I currently have a '95 Disco that I'm slowly but surely building into what I hope will be a trail only rig. Having terrible fears of breaking axles (I'm currently investigating a possible bent rear housing! Ouch!), I was looking for a stronger option. Adam and I have been corresponding for quite some time also about D44 conversions and I have an idea for a four-link front suspension that might just allow for a greater amount of independent adjustment of pinion angles, etc.

As my wife is an insurance adjuster, I have access to an astounding array of junked vehicles :-) that with a few 12-packs of beer, parts just might find their way to my shop (which is still being built!) . The Toy diffs might be easier to find than the D44 and would certainly be easier to put into the housing. I can pick up stripped Rover housings pretty cheaply, if I'm willing to drive about two hours to pick them up.

As for axles, as this is a fairly new direction for me to pursue, I don't have any idea what I'll do. Given the 30-spline nature of these axles, I'm curious about the Summers Brothers offering and their interchangeability.

The Toy setup looks like it would be as strong as the D44 (don't flame me, I already said I was ignorant!) and with the "Free" locker, one would be way ahead of the game going this direction, over the D44.

Paul

I dont think a toy setup will be as strong as a d44, especially in the front. You still got problems with the CVs. Now The Longfield super CVs for the toys are very impressive but you still end up with a small axle size that goes into the CVs star (Im guessing about 1.1in) which will be the next weak point. Im going to run Rover 23 spline CVs which has a larger axle size (guessing 1.2in) so in my setup the axle will be stronger but this will probably make the star the weak point even if Bobby Long gives them his magic treatment. So this may not necessarily be the strongest way to go.

With Rover IMO the best current setup is 24 spline alloy shafts with 23 spline rover 110 CVS. Now to get past the strength of this setup you really have to do something with the CVs cause this is the weak point. So someone starts making some super CVs for the rovers (either Bobby long or SG or whoever). If these are run with the rover crown and pinion IMO you wont gain much cause the crown and pinion will fail. This is why the toy centre is a good option but to get the strength benefit you got to do something with the cvs.

If I was living in the US right now I would convert to run a toy centre and the Toyota super birfields (this is a straight forward Jac mac conversion) This would be a strong proven setup and the toy cvs would have to be cheaper than the rover ones and lot more available for you guys.

9V is talking about running CTMs and alloy shafts with the toy centre. This will be strong and IMO will guarantee that the weakest point in the front will be the toy ring and pinion. So this would be as strong as it could be made.


For the rear the 30 spline axles and toy centre would have to be way stronger than the best rover setup IMO. To get better you would have to go to a salisbury with 30 spline axle conversion and if your going to do this you may as well go 35 splines.


Sam

[i]
If I was living in the US right now I would convert to run a toy centre and the Toyota super birfields (this is a straight forward Jac mac conversion) This would be a strong proven setup and the toy cvs would have to be cheaper than the rover ones and lot more available for you guys.

Sam [/B]

Sam,
Can you PM me with an est on the cost for the super birfs and toy centre? I know that you are not "repping" them, but I have priced everything out except that.

I am finally going to beef this thing up this winter, and for the cost, I can't justify going to Rover 24 spline with arb's. TIA!

PS gang, I did find donor 24 spline axles for 695.00


j

Originally posted by redrangie


Sam,
Can you PM me with an est on the cost for the super birfs and toy centre? I know that you are not "repping" them, but I have priced everything out except that.

I am finally going to beef this thing up this winter, and for the cost, I can't justify going to Rover 24 spline with arb's. TIA!

PS gang, I did find donor 24 spline axles for 695.00


j

I can get the price of the jac mac axles, drive flanges and brass bush insert needed to support the toy CV in the rover spindle.

To get the cost of the centre and super birfs you are probably best chasing yourself in the US.

Sam

HA! ...LOL...
Adam.......I believe you have been there....done that....
AND
Come on Adam don't you know a 3-link when you see it?:D

I was hoping to draw attention to it and have a few people help me beg for some more pictures. Thanks for the help guys:flipoff2: ! Looks good! Obviously not a SG set-up. Care to elaborate on the set-up or is it still a prototype and possibly waiting introduction on your website? The center link has to be about 6" longer than the one I have. Have any idea how it handles yet?

Way

EDIT: After further looking looks like an "extra" bracket on the Drivers side and you are "missing" one on the Pass side. Hmmmmm. I want to go wheeling with you now more than ever.

After further looking looks like an "extra" bracket on the Drivers side and you are "missing" one on the Pass side.

Thats just a piece of tube holding the bumper up behind the axle. This project is Drew's quest for a stronger front end so we are seeing what we learn. I am liking what we are learning and I guess my front end is next. As for a product???? why not if we learn something good...

Okay.

Lemme get this straight.

You guys area hanging the pig solely by the studs.

You're not making an adapter of anykind. Nothing to make up for the size difference of the mating surface between the toy diff and the rover housing.

You DO know that a differential transfers incredible forces to the axle casing, and that it relies on the tight fit of the pig inside the axle case to transfer forces? The studs aren't meant to support everything?

You DO know that if there is space between the axle casing and the diff, there will be movement.... Right?

I await the first kaboom.

Still Sceptical.

J-L

Originally posted by HandBuilt
Okay.

Lemme get this straight.

You guys area hanging the pig solely by the studs.

You're not making an adapter of anykind. Nothing to make up for the size difference of the mating surface between the toy diff and the rover housing.

You DO know that a differential transfers incredible forces to the axle casing, and that it relies on the tight fit of the pig inside the axle case to transfer forces? The studs aren't meant to support everything?

You DO know that if there is space between the axle casing and the diff, there will be movement.... Right?

I await the first kaboom.

Still Sceptical.

J-L

To give you an idea of the incredible forces that the centre transfers to the housing have a look at the tail shaft and the four 3/8 bolts on about a 3 in diameter that transfer that torque. Then have a look at what holds the centre to the diff housing, about 10 bolts on a 12 in diameter. I dont think that this will be a problem. The torque that has to be supported by the pig is very small.

Also Im certain that its the friction between the mating surfaces that locates the pig and nothing else. The tight fit only makes sure the pig is located in the correct position.

I carnt see that this will cause a kaboom.

Sam

The mating surface will create more than adequate friction grip.
drive shaft will die long before KAABOOM.
regards
Michael.

Handbuilt maybe you should let Toyota know about your opinions cause my toy centres are supported by the bolts only there is free play in the hole if you remove the studs and i have never had a KAABOOM caused by the pig comming loose. I think the mating serface combined with the bolts is more than adequate.

Interesting stuff...

I was not aware that the toyota differential was "floating" in the housing.

I would have thought that because of the gear reduction, the strain induced on the carrier would be more than the strain at the driveshaft, but rethinking it (after a coffee) makes it apparent that the real torque is in compression/tension on the top and bottom of the mounting surface as the differential attempts to rotate outwards of the axle casing, and the studs would be perfect for that. Tension strength...

It is now plainly apparent that the torque provided by the driveshaft would be pretty minimal as it was mentioned that the 4 3/8" bolts would succumb to shear stress long before the carrier moved.

I'm sold.

Thanks guys,

J-L

I am more concerned over my abilities to eyeball the Toy diff in the hole to ensure that the axle shafts line up directly to the spider gears as I'm sure that a tremendous amount of scarce Land Rover horsepower would be converted to (destructive) heat were the axle shafts not true to the spider gears. However, nobody seems to be too terribly concerned over this, so their eyeballing abilities must be better than mine (or, they're just more confident and less worrisome) or, it must not be that big of a deal (I assume at least a few of the studs would line up and could be used to assist with the alignment).

The wife has already found a few potential donors, but has very accurately described to me what will happen if even a single additional piece of scrap iron (her words, not mine) appears in the yard before the shop is built and the '94 Disco is out of the driveway (waiting on parts after discovering significant carnage) and back to its home.

Paul

a single additional piece of scrap iron (her words, not mine) appears in the yard before the shop is built and the '94 Disco is out of the driveway

LOL!!! Sounds like you never had a baseball card collection and are making up for it later in life....only with things of real value though now...

Way

Originally posted by PTSchram
[
The wife has already found a few potential donors, but has very accurately described to me what will happen if even a single additional piece of scrap iron (her words, not mine) appears in the yard before the shop is built and the '94 Disco is out of the driveway (waiting on parts after discovering significant carnage) and back to its home.

Paul [/B]

Well, PT, if they were to show up in my yard would she still be mad? ?? ???


j

Take 2 bars of steel mimicking the lenght and od of an axle set, turn a stub on one end of each shaft that is the minor dia of the spline in the spider gears....put the diff in the housing...insert the mimicked axles, then eye ball for position. There is enough play in the spider gears that you will have to eye ball the shafts in the tube ends for being centered as they will have shake. Not hard, not rocket science...Its just a JEDEYE natural instinct. The depth from mounting surface to centerline of axles are exactly the same on toy and land rover BTW so the axles are centered on that axis. We are doing the front diff only as the rear will be a salsbury 35 spline axle. Waiting on 35 spline axles for that. Drew is going to put it all together in his Range Rover mid/late Sept.

Originally posted by RoverWrench
We are doing the front diff only as the rear will be a salsbury 35 spline axle. Waiting on 35 spline axles for that. Drew is going to put it all together in his Range Rover mid/late Sept.

Is he breaking many rear axles with those tires? Which axles was he running. I have beat the piss out of my rear axles in the last month and have yet to break one.

no i was not breaking any rear axles with the toy set up. I did however break 2 diffs one was the front diff in the rear axle (runns the ring gear on the weak side), and one that i ran out of oil, my fault on both times. i had the sal. rear already and i am thinking 35's are to small thats why i am changing axles. i am also going to go to a 4.56 ratio at the same time.
Drew

Just found this on the web in case someone is looking to do an entire swap.

South-american front coiler axle. 4.88 gears


http://www.allprooffroad.com/used.html

"Drew is going to put it all together in his Range Rover mid/late Sept."

See you at MAR.

:)

Ron